Day 3
First order of the day on a safari is to check the vehicle, and in doing so you get a little exercise lifting the bonnet with the large spare tyre on it. All the fluids were good, so next one slides out the front seat and lifts the hatch to access the brake fluid and the fuel tank cap. They were so thoughtful in designing these things, the fuel filler is a full 4 inches in diameter for easy pouring from a Jerry can, as I did. Right height too, and you pour into a removable strainer thing to exclude the crud. A quick calculation showed that we were doing about 8 km per litre, not bad at all and my 5 Jerry cans would do just fine. The guide at Chenje was adamant, they should have issued a permit at the Parks office and without it we wouldn't get out at the other side. I told him what they said and his advice was to go back and get one, for sure. So we waved our hosts goodbye and took a shortcut they advised - "just keep going straight" he said. Well not 500 metres from camp the first Y junction appeared, I opted for the left branch on a hunch. The next I took the right, and another left after that. Elephant spoor everywhere and traversing steep banked sand rivers was delightful, using low range several times. The smell of that potato creeper is to die for and with a cloudless sky again the warm morning was already portending a hot tropical day. At last we popped out on the main road and were soon back at the Parks office, all different faces, same story - you dont need a permit and a little arrogance of the 'dont tell us how to do our jobs' kind. Oh well, off we went heading westwards. The road here is far less used and generally easier going, you just need to be aware of washaways, you hit those at speed and it's off to the chiro. Far more baobabs along this stretch, and of course the tsetse's were out in force to leave you in no doubt where you were. Keeping up a slow but steady pace the dust is less of a problem, but we packed everything into dustbin bags anyway.
Around midday we reached the Nyakasanga gate, and the first thing the smartly dressed lady official asked for was - the permit! I relayed the story but she was firm, you can't be in this park without one. I was born here, I've learnt the power of silence, so the pause hung until she suggested a solution - "proceed to Nyamepi head office and tell them your story". I looked at the floor. "It is only 45 km" she added in consolation. Oh well, it was on the way, sort of, so off we went.
the lady at Nyamepi was ever so kind and helpful and seemed to know the whole story in advance, it was as if it was all orcestrated to get us to visit her office with it's gleaming polished floors. The errant permit was issued and I asked if she could please add a stamp, just for just. Game was scarce, we just saw the ubiquitous impala under the signature Mana Albida trees and a few elephant, and of course baboons and monkeys who delighted in climbing all over Carruthers and made off with a packet of nut crunch.
Now all street legal we backtracked to the Kanga Camp turnoff. The drive is about 10km off the main track, very winding but no drama. Turning into camp we were greeted by all the staff dancing, singing and beating drums, I think they were genuinely tickled by the appearance of this bygone retro group, probably a first.
Kanga is an inland pan, so in the dry winter months it is an amphitheatre of the wilds. The lounge deck is completely open and raised to about half elephant height, so they are almost touchable as they saunter by. The fire pit and dining area are on the left of the deck and the lounge on the right. A huge tarpaulin is hung between the massive nyala berry and ebony trees to form a reception area and bar at the back of the deck.
The rooms are large tents, larger than the typical safari camp ones and about 50/50 gauze and canvas to get any breeze. The toilet and shower area is out back under the stars. Each tent unit is separated by thick jesse and overhung by massive trees that host scores of birds and monkeys, it really is quite splendid.
That night sitting by the mopane fire sipping a glass of very good merlot I got that feeling of utter relaxation and happiness that only comes when the soul is at ease.
You do realize it is just possible you married above your station?
