Which .416 Rigby?

If it was my money it would be the one on the right in the first picture.
 
Arm dealers in Sweden can't show rifles like that!
They (almost) just got Tikka, Sako and Blaser when they want to show new guns..
You are lucky to have a dealer like that.
JG Jakt get somewhat close to this though. I visited their booth at Elmia and they had a couple old Rigby's and Mauser's but the coolest thing was a Westley Richards 8 gauge side by side that I think they wanted 300 k sek for iirc. They were also really nice and let me look at them all despite it being perfectly clear that I wasn't going to buy anything. Of course 99% of dealers are exactly like what you describe unfortunately.
 
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Here's a different thought...all are beautiful of course but can we get a matte finish instead of high gloss? I love the red tint in older English finishes and wish the finishes had less shine than a spotlight.
 
Here's a different thought...all are beautiful of course but can we get a matte finish instead of high gloss? I love the red tint in older English finishes and wish the finishes had less shine than a spotlight.
Now, now, don’t go getting all practical on us! Lol:A Thumbs Up:
 
What grade is the wood on those? I assume they are higher than standard grade 5 from the pricing.
Left is a Grade 6, Right is Grade 9. The 3 in the middle are Grade 7 250th Anniversary Editions.
 
In my opinion, a great 416 Rigby is one of the classiest rifles around. I love mine and hunt with it often. There is nothing it can't do...from tiny 10 to DG is covered.
 
No bad choices really, I’d buy the least expensive one and spend remainder on trophy fees
 
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(Maybe a litte veer)

Went to Purdey a year ago for a fitting and to order a shotgun. In the wood selection, he said the desired cuts of the Turkish walnut are right where the roots meet the lowest part of the trunk. That junction is where you’ll get the nicest looking patterns and colors for the aft/widest part of the stock. For strength as you move forward and especially in the area of the receiver, the grain should be straight and parallel to the bore, which is from the trunk part of the wood cut.

Hope I understood him correctly; at least that’s the wood pattern type I picked. FWIW.
That’s a great explanation on the wood. Back in my baseball days we always wanted the straightest grain we could get , a lot less likely to break a bat when you don’t hit the sweet spot.
I was definitely curious how well that decorative grain would hold up to heavy recoil. No doubt about it all of those are beautiful pieces of art. Anyone should be proud to own one!
 
That won't narrow it down.
If all you want is something pretty then by all means take the one you like best But if you are looking for a "working" piece of art every one of those guns will feel slightly different take the one that feels/handles the best for you
 
If all you want is something pretty then by all means take the one you like best But if you are looking for a "working" piece of art every one of those guns will feel slightly different take the one that feels/handles the best for you

Judging from.the grain structure, I would bet all of those rifles fall within three ounces of each other, with same barrel length and profile, if you think you can choose the right one blindfolded, have at it.
 
Third from left is the only one I have high confidence in the wood’s structure. Will the others hold up? Probably. For the price point, would it be better to have less flamboyance and better grain flow through the wrist? Definitely. Would that cost more and be less attractive? Yes and yes.
 

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