What are the differences in Tikka T3X rifles?

steve white

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Since the price points vary from $750 to $1100, what are the important differences in the T3X models? What do you get for the extra money. Most of all, is the $750 black version as ACCURATE as the higher priced ones. Is a bedding job required for best results or best left alone? Pros/cons of the T3X lite model. Feel free to give me the good the bad and the ugly if you own one!
 
I own 5 different Tikka T3X rifles, and have owned a couple more in the past. I have quite a few different models. They all have the same quality Sako made barrels, and all of mine are very accurate. Most of the differences are in stock finish, barrel contour, and blue vs stainless. Some have fluted barrels, etc. I’ve never bedded any of mine, and they are all synthetic stocked models. I have seen no need in trying to change anything. They are good as is.
 
The first round of models were Tikka T3.

After considering customer feedback they used the marketing “ You asked, we listened”

My first T3 was a laminated stocked stainless .308

I was a bit disappointed by the plastic trigger guard/mag well or bottom metal if you want to call it that. I wasn’t fussed on a plastic bolt shroud or an Aluminium recoil lug

Tikka later released the upgraded T3x where they replaced the aluminium recoil lug with steel, opened up the action port for easier single loading or extraction, changed to an aluminium bolt shroud and added a foam in the buttstock to dampen the hollow sound if tapped and offered interchangeable pistol grip and formed options and aftermarket parts.

Initially there were Lite, Superlight (fluted barrel) Timber stocked Hunter and Forest, Stainless options , Battue an open sight carbine and the CTR ( Compact Tactical Rifle) and TAC A1 tactical rifles . There is also Varmint models

The CTR and TAC A1 use a double stack box magazine that needs the appropriate stock inlet to accommodate the alloy bottom metal and box magazine. These are not interchangeable with other Tikka magazines and if you want to reconfigure these to suit you need a different bottom metal and a small flat retaining spring to hold the single stack magazine. Plus you would need to have an adequate barrel inlet to accommodate the mid weight barrels from the models I mentioned.

The interesting thing is that the action is still the same footprint across 3 action lengths and two iterations of models T3 and T3x use that same action footprint and recoil lug so the whole concept is to cut production costs but makes it a modular system that makes it easy to interchange and swap stocks, mounts and the configuration across the range.

They are well supported with aftermarket accessories and newer models.

I think the models named Rancher and Drover have just been released in Australia being somewhat like a Battue with open sights and an upgrade to the double stack 10 round magazine. They come in colours unique to the model.

The timber stocked Varmint rifles were added to the line up a few years ago and the Aspire, Willard Viel, Strata and roughtech and other synthetic models are relatively new models with unique camo patterns on the synthetic stocks and some models are using a new D18 barrel profile that is marginally bigger diameter than a sporter barrel but not a varmiint profile diameter.


Off the top of my head that is all I have for now.
 
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My wood stocked T3X Hunter model benefited from a bedding job. Very happy with my three, including a .22, and would love to see some feedback on the newer version with fancier stocks and threaded barrels.
 
My wood stocked T3x Hunter shoots great without a bedding job. The Hunter model is the only one that was offered in 6.5x55 that I could find. The Forest (also wood stocked) also is catalogued in 6.5x55 but I have never seen one for sale.
 
I only have one, a T3X Super Lite in 243 Win. It is very accurate and the action is very smooth. It is the black synthetic stock with a fluted barrel.
I wish I had known more about them years earlier as I would own more of them today.
Mine has become one of my favorite rifles in the safe.
 
In the states T3x lite is the basic rifle you can buy with synthetic stock and blued barrel. After that you get into custom options for each big box store. Superlite has fluted stainless barrel with different camo patterns depending on store. I just bought a Roughtech which is somewhere between superlite and a lite with a more solid feeling stock and have some duracoat options from different vendors. Every tikka, including the wood stocked versions I’ve used overseas shoot amazing. All have good factory triggers and actions. So depends how pretty you want it and how much you want to spend.
 
In the states T3x lite is the basic rifle you can buy with synthetic stock and blued barrel. After that you get into custom options for each big box store. Superlite has fluted stainless barrel with different camo patterns depending on store. I just bought a Roughtech which is somewhere between superlite and a lite with a more solid feeling stock and have some duracoat options from different vendors. Every tikka, including the wood stocked versions I’ve used overseas shoot amazing. All have good factory triggers and actions. So depends how pretty you want it and how much you want to spend.

I have heard people say previously the Camo stocks were more stiffer than the synthetic stock of the time. They seemed to think they were a different composite material but I never had anyone confirm it.
This was way back well before the rough tech models were available.

My factory synthetic stocks were changed out to after market models.
 
Since the price points vary from $750 to $1100, what are the important differences in the T3X models? What do you get for the extra money. Most of all, is the $750 black version as ACCURATE as the higher priced ones. Is a bedding job required for best results or best left alone? Pros/cons of the T3X lite model. Feel free to give me the good the bad and the ugly if you own one!
I fell in love with the Tikka T3X at the Beretta gallery in Dallas a few years back. I was blown away by the silky smooth action and the light weight of this rifle. I could not put that rifle down!
I have the plain black one in 7mm Mag and my wife has the newer T3x Lite Roughtech with the tan stock in 6.5 PRC. I do not think there are any accuracy differences. To me the whole point of the Tikka is the lightest weight version I can get so this is why I prefer the T3X Lite. They are all amazingly good, accurate, and very inexpensive rifles. I don't know why more people don't use hem.
 
Most of the price difference is stocks. I own 2 and have shot several others. I my opinion they are all amazing. Roughtech is the best of the stocks I have tried. My recommendation if you want the perfect rifle buy a lower price one and replace the stock with an aftermarket. I have one in a McMillian carbon and one in a MDT HNT26 chassis. Many aftermarket stocks available to match your tastes.
 
I can’t leave anything alone so here is a photo of my first Tikka, a T3 before the improved T3x models.
This was ordered as a Stainless Laminate model in .308.
I lightened the trigger, bedded to laminate stock with a Titanium recoil lug added a bolt shroud and used it a bit.
I was not a fan of the modularity at first but used it to my advantage by buying more Tikkas and have changed up the configuration.
I had an opportunity to trial an IBI barrel at a reasonable rate. It shoots well if I do my part and is still a .308.
The Timber stock is a takeoff from a .300wm purchased online.
IMG_0160.jpeg
 
This is my .280a.i. Using an Australian made Carbon fibre stick and an IBI C/F wrap barrel.
The bolt knob is MTN Gear from NZ and is 3D printed from Titanium, ugly but the lightest on the market. Some form of aftermarket bolt shroud
IMG_0050.jpeg
 
A 6.5x55 that was rebarreled with an Australian Swan barrel because it was going to be my target rifle.
The stock is a GRS BiFrost.
Not assembled, not fired.
Maybe a work in progress or maybe sold down the line to recover some money
IMG_0072.jpeg
 
The wife’s Tikka 7x64, that I should have bought for me.
I bought a Bell and Carlson stock on clearance some years ago. Sat on it for a while, wanted a 7mm-08 or 7x57 for my wife but in hindsight I could have used a 6.5x55 in the stock.
Anyways, here we are this is my latest obsession and I’m liking the B&C stock.
That’s an Atlas Works bolt handle
IMG_0525.jpeg
 
Since the price points vary from $750 to $1100, what are the important differences in the T3X models? What do you get for the extra money. Most of all, is the $750 black version as ACCURATE as the higher priced ones. Is a bedding job required for best results or best left alone? Pros/cons of the T3X lite model. Feel free to give me the good the bad and the ugly if you own one!
I have older model T3 tac, my friend owns T3x tac a1 (which is probably most expensive)
The gadgets and equipment vary, and that determines the price.
T3x A1, has collapsible stock, integrated picatinny rail.
T3 x super varmint, has thick inox barrel and adjustable cheek rest of the stock.
And some models will have mechanical sights installed, while some will not.
Some basic models are without picatinny rail (like t3x lite), and with basic stock, which drops the price further.
So price differences will be based on type of stock, and several optional features on the rifle.
 
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