Using mill surplus ammo for hunting rifle

[Speedbattle999]

Hi ,
Recently I decided to buy some surplus ammo dated 1960-70’s in 30-06 , 150 gr. bullet with black flake powder 47 gr.
Any suggestion for using this ammo in my Parker Hale 30-06 rifle . Thanks .

 

[Sarg]

Are you asking if it would be ok or what to replace the projectiles with or what ?

I think American surplus ammo is non corrosive but that’s the main thing to check & then replace projectiles with a 150gr soft nose or hollow point sporting projectile, then shoot for accuracy.

Are you wanting to cull pigs cheaply or what is your motivation ?

 

[BeeMaa]

@Speedbattle999 - you didn’t specify if you would be hunting or just shooting, presumably at paper. You stated for use in a hunting rifle and for that, I’d say you are fine.

If you plan on hunting something like whitetail, bear or elk…I’d highly recommend buying better ammo or as @Sarg said, reload these with a proper hunting bullet. Options like the Barnes TTSX and Swift A-Frame would be at the top of my list.

 

[shootist~]

Who made the Surplus? Have you googled to see recent reviews?

 

[Red Leg]

If it is military 30-06, the production code is what matters. This is from CMP -

Any.30-’06 Ball with zinc plated primers with headstamp of FA 47 or later is non-corrosive. FA.30-’06 "Special Match" headstamped FA 53, FA 54, or FA 56 with red, purple or green primer waterproofing is CORROSIVE!

I would never use corrosive primers on any firearm of mine.

 

[Speedbattle999]

Are you asking if it would be ok or what to replace the projectiles with or what ?

I think American surplus ammo is non corrosive but that’s the main thing to check & then replace projectiles with a 150gr soft nose or hollow point sporting projectile, then shoot for accuracy.

Are you wanting to cull pigs cheaply or what is your motivation ?

First of all to make sure it safe to shoot the way it is . Then if not going through powder check and projectile replacement, thanks

 

[Speedbattle999]

Who made the Surplus? Have you googled to see recent reviews?

Persian surplus ammo . I find that powder would be WC852 in two burning rate slow for M1 grand and fast for machin gun . But I don’t know which I have bought.

 

[Speedbattle999]

If it is military 30-06, the production code is what matters. This is from CMP -

Any.30-’06 Ball with zinc plated primers with headstamp of FA 47 or later is non-corrosive. FA.30-’06 "Special Match" headstamped FA 53, FA 54, or FA 56 with red, purple or green primer waterproofing is CORROSIVE!

I would never use corrosive primers on any firearm of mine.

 

[Speedbattle999]

Actuall ammo .

 

[Speedbattle999]

The black one my rifle the wooden stock Mannlicher . All 30-06 .

 

[Speedbattle999]

View attachment 557592

Crown = Shah of Iran symbol
۵۰= 1973
ص= production ,industrial
ن= military
Just for info .

 

[mdwest]

that green seal on the primer is a very negative indicator..

corrosive ammo pretty much went away in the US by the mid 1950's.. but FN and other european manufacturers of military ammunition continued to use corrosive primers well into the 60's.. the korean manufacturers of military ammunition for the 30-06 continued to use corrosive primers until 1973.. If I understand correctly the koreans were pretty much the major provider of military 30-06 by the 70's.. most of the US and european manufacturers of the military 30-06 lines had stopped production by then..

Im not sure who produced 30-06 for Iran in the 70's.. but between the green seal and knowing Korea was the largest producer during the 70's and they were still using corrosive primers in 1973.. I wouldnt use it in a nice hunting rifle... I dont think its worth the risk..

I might would consider pulling all of the components and trying to salvage and then use the brass (after thoroughly cleaned).. but I think that would be about it..

 

[Speedbattle999]

that green seal on the primer is a very negative indicator..

corrosive ammo pretty much went away in the US by the mid 1950's.. but FN and other european manufacturers of military ammunition continued to use corrosive primers well into the 60's.. the korean manufacturers of military ammunition for the 30-06 continued to use corrosive primers until 1973.. If I understand correctly the koreans were pretty much the major provider of military 30-06 by the 70's.. most of the US and european manufacturers of the military 30-06 lines had stopped production by then..

Im not sure who produced 30-06 for Iran in the 70's.. but between the green seal and knowing Korea was the largest producer during the 70's and they were still using corrosive primers in 1973.. I wouldnt use it in a nice hunting rifle... I dont think its worth the risk..

I might would consider pulling all of the components and trying to salvage and then use the brass (after thoroughly cleaned).. but I think that would be about it..

Thanks for all info , I was considering about the powder , but I noticed by your information that provided that primer is a main factor in order to keep the firearm rust free and clean . I defiantly try to do the nail test to find out the primers position . I hope that green seal won’t waste my money . And at the end ammo was produced in Iran by military industry in 1973 by using all US made machinery. Mostly for M1 .
Thanks for your time and info .

 

[Speedbattle999]

@Speedbattle999 - you didn’t specify if you would be hunting or just shooting, presumably at paper. You stated for use in a hunting rifle and for that, I’d say you are fine.

If you plan on hunting something like whitetail, bear or elk…I’d highly recommend buying better ammo or as @Sarg said, reload these with a proper hunting bullet. Options like the Barnes TTSX and Swift A-Frame would be at the top of my list.

 

[Speedbattle999]

These are the main target for me in Alborz mountain in Iran .

 

[Speedbattle999]

 

[shootist~]

I can't tell from the picture, but assuming you punched out the primer, it's boxer primed (one hole.) If so, it's not corrosive.

Still, fmj ammo is a poor choice for hunting. Still beats a sharp stick, though.

 

[BeeMaa]

@Speedbattle999 - IMO, it would be more efficient to buy 4-6 boxes of premium ammo and see how each one shoots in your rifle. If you are paying top dollar for a hunt in Iran, the last place you want to try to save money is ammo. Fly economy, eat ramen, use single ply TP...but don't skimp on ammo. It's the only piece of kit you will take that will actually make contact with the game animal.

Safe the surplus stuff for culling hogs in the US at close range.

 

[Marc Ret]

@Speedbattle999 - IMO, it would be more efficient to buy 4-6 boxes of premium ammo and see how each one shoots in your rifle. If you are paying top dollar for a hunt in Iran, the last place you want to try to save money is ammo. Fly economy, eat ramen, use single ply TP...but don't skimp on ammo. It's the only piece of kit you will take that will actually make contact with the game animal.

Safe the surplus stuff for culling hogs in the US at close range.

I may be wrong but I don't believe the OP is in the U.S. I get the impression he is an Iranian or from another country in the region. Ammo choices and availability for him may not be as easily obtainable as they are here.

 

[BeeMaa]

I may be wrong but I don't believe the OP is in the U.S. I get the impression he is an Iranian or from another country in the region. Ammo choices and availability for him may not be as easily obtainable as they are here.

In that case, get the best you can and go from there.

Wether it’s new bullets and reload, or factory ammo… you owe it to the game to hunt with the best you can.