Two scope setup?

Here is another option I forgot:

http://kentonindustries.com/category/custom-turrets

Have a custom turret made for around $100 that has the offset for load a and load b and load c labeled. Then you just turn the turret when you switch using one good scope. They can make turrets for many makes and models.
 
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I did exactly what you have mentioned with my stainless M70 in .375 H&H. It is set up with a Leupold VX-6 2x-12x with illuminated reticle in Luepold QRW rings. Comes off in about 10 seconds for use with open sights if desired. I have a Leupold VX-3 1.5x-5x set up in a second set of the same rings. It is small and light so it's easy to put in carry on luggage and also haul around in the field wherever we go. Great peace of mind to have a spare all dialed in and ready to go when you're a long way from home. Even the best scopes break...
I've also worked up loads with 300gr Nosler Accubonds and 300gr Woodleigh solids that shoot same point of impact at 100 yards. If I was hunting big stuff like buff I would probably use something like an A-Frame for the soft. African Wildcat to Zebra, you have it covered.
The only drawback, although I don't really think of it that way, is I had to throttle up the solid and reduce the load on the Accubond to get the same POI. The Accubond is running right at 2400 fps and the solid at 2525 fps.
Anyway, makes for about as versatile a package as I can think of. Except for maybe a Model 70 in .416 Rem Mag set up the same way. I've been looking for a good one of those in stainless steel for a looong time :). The idea of a red dot sight as the second optic seems like a very good one to me as well.
for many reasons I am planning something like this. I plan to hunt only plainsgame this year with my 375.
I am going to scope it with what I have on Quick release rings. In 2 or 3 years, I hope to hunt buff and will get a proper buff-hunting scope for it with Quick release rings. that way I will be able to easily change back and forth as necessary.
 
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for many reasons I am planning something like this. I plan to hunt only plainsgame this year with my 375.
I am going to scope it with what I have on Quick release rings. In 2 or 3 years, I hope to hunt buff and will get a proper buff-hunting scope for it with Quick release rings. that way I will be able to easily change back and forth as necessary.

You will also become very familiar with the rifle, which is one of the most important considerations for a rifle you intend using on DG.
 
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You will also become very familiar with the rifle, which is one of the most important considerations for a rifle you intend using on DG.
this is my reason for buying it now. I want a couple of hunts prior to the buff hunt.
I was looking at a buff hunt next year, but my wife wanted to go this year to do a crossbow hunt, so I'm postponing my buff hunt that she doesn't want to go on.
I've been struggling on which rifle for a year trying to decide. I knew I wanted stainless/synthetic with iron sights.
I think I will be happy with my choice.
 
this is my reason for buying it now. I want a couple of hunts prior to the buff hunt.
I was looking at a buff hunt next year, but my wife wanted to go this year to do a crossbow hunt, so I'm postponing my buff hunt that she doesn't want to go on.
I've been struggling on which rifle for a year trying to decide. I knew I wanted stainless/synthetic with iron sights.
I think I will be happy with my choice.

You will be and with your approach you will be more than happy with the result.

I wish you all the best with your hunt.
 
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Here is another option I forgot:

http://kentonindustries.com/category/custom-turrets

Have a custom turret made for around $100 that has the offset for load a and load b and load c labeled. Then you just turn the turret when you switch using one good scope. They can make turrets for many makes and models.

@rookhawk Sounds like a very good idea. I am still not quite sure how this works though. Do you just fit the turret to the elevation or do you need to fit one for left and right as well?

Your second load may for example be high and to the right meaning you have to adjust for both elevation and left/right. Which in effect will require you to make two adjustments to get back on target.
 
I would only use the Red Dot scope with the smallest available dot 3moa if possible. Would only use for up to 150m and compensate for bullet drop on distances. Depending on bullet performance zero in at 50 to 100m to get the flattest trajectory. Just my personal opinion for this scenario.
 
Personally, I have a VX6 1-6 #4 firedot with a CDS turret on my .375 H&H and I think it's pretty much perfect.

I've done a lot of hunting on 6x and can say, fairly, that it's all the magnification I've needed to 300 yards. In fact, I'd say that the real issue isn't having more magnification, it's having the rifle set to the magnification that you want before you even consider pulling the trigger.

On too many occasions I've found that my scope was set too high for a given situation. I've hunted 6x almost as a standard to 300 yards. I've hunted on 3x out to 320 yards...and 10x (*diff. Scope) at 60 yards. The later was much, much more difficult to manage.

So yeah, 1-6x works great, particularly with the CDS. Need 400 yards? Just spin it up.

I do most of my hunting on low power, figuring that if I really need more power, I'm likely far enough out that I don't need to worry bout getting busted by the critter.
 
Rookhawk called it dead on get the swaro 1-6 or 1-8 lighted cirle dot and don't look back you do not need two scopes! Trust us with the gray hair and many many hunts and animals down F_ing around switching scoops during a hunt is a fools folley sure to eventually bite you in the arse! But I am all for quick relaes mounts and back up iron sights on a DG gun. Even on my long range gun that is wearing a Schmidt & bender it is set on 6x and rarely comes off that I will and do happily shoot to 300 yds at 6x and never touch a turret when it is time to shoot you shoot!!!!!! You should already know the gun and the hold over/windage your mind makes the adj and ya pull the trigger. If way out there then you usually have all day and can mess around counting clicks etc. And ya don't need a bunch of different bullets just choose the one the gun likes best and then load a solid to same POI. use the KISS priciple;)
 
I would only use the Red Dot scope with the smallest available dot 3moa if possible. Would only use for up to 150m and compensate for bullet drop on distances. Depending on bullet performance zero in at 50 to 100m to get the flattest trajectory. Just my personal opinion for this scenario.
Red dot sights, I would not like for this.

1) Light transmission is far inferior to an actual scope
2) You are not shooting from under a vehicle bumper, etc. You don't need a super super super forgiving eyebox.
3) You can buy something like a MK6, K16i, Z6i that will do 95% of what a RD will do, and many many things it won't. Such as be awesome around dawn/dusk. Work without a battery. Magnify the target. Provide hold-offs. Etc.


I have currently played with the Z6i, K16i, VCOG, Razor HDII, and MK6 1-6 variables. I prefer the MK6 thus far. Illumination is bright!, turrets and over-all footprint are VERY low profile, you can either dial, or hold for distance, and it's extremely durable. Probably more durable than iron sights, honestly, no joke.
 
Personally, I have a VX6 1-6 #4 firedot with a CDS turret on my .375 H&H and I think it's pretty much perfect.

I've done a lot of hunting on 6x and can say, fairly, that it's all the magnification I've needed to 300 yards. In fact, I'd say that the real issue isn't having more magnification, it's having the rifle set to the magnification that you want before you even consider pulling the trigger.

On too many occasions I've found that my scope was set too high for a given situation. I've hunted 6x almost as a standard to 300 yards. I've hunted on 3x out to 320 yards...and 10x (*diff. Scope) at 60 yards. The later was much, much more difficult to manage.

So yeah, 1-6x works great, particularly with the CDS. Need 400 yards? Just spin it up.

I do most of my hunting on low power, figuring that if I really need more power, I'm likely far enough out that I don't need to worry bout getting busted by the critter.

Far too many people will compensate for crap glass by "adding x's" to the equation.

"For $600, I can get 4x more power with this brand vs. $600 for that brand giving me 4x less...." is a common sentiment. I cannot count the number of scopes I've looked through at the local shooting range that are 9-12x on the top end that won't even let me see bullet holes at 100 yards while my 6x MK6 lets me see them just fine. Half of those junk scopes are mounted with the rings pushed against the turret cluster, or on the bell of the occular or objective, or the ring halves touching, or touching on one side, or the crosshairs forming "X" instead of "+" on the target, or any other number of hillbilly crap.

People just do not understand optics, by and large, in the world in general.

This forum seems to be a wonderful exception regarding that, and the quality of people inhabiting it! That VX6 you chose is one killer optic! They can as you know (I say this for others) make whatever dial you want, for whatever loading you want, as well.
 
This is an example of why I prefer a LPV over a RDS. I took this picture WELL AFTER sunset. You must excuse the potato I used to take the photo, obviously resolution of the optic is not this poor. I took the photo to emphasize how a LPV on 1x with an illuminated reticle works VERY well when the lights go down. Step outside with your red-dot and see how it does in similar conditions... (Optic is a Leupold MK6 1-6, illumination was set on #3 for this photo, I believe. You can see how resolution and color/light transmission is, if anything, better than with the naked eye.)

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I put a Kahles K16i 1-6x24 (G4B illuminated reticle) on my FN 375 I am very pleased with the outcome. I just could get used to the illumination control on the swarovski. Ive shoot it out to 300m without issue ( its capable of more). nothing wrong with any of the choices really mention here, pretty much comes down to personal choice IMHO.

Pat
 
Swaro / Kahles

Whatever floats your boat. Same company.

The glass is amazing, the straight tube is awesome.

If I didn't think there was a chance my wife would read this, I'd tell you how many of these I've owned with great satisfaction! ;)
 

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