Thoughts on the perfect Tiny Ten cartridge

[skydiver386]

The 257 Robert’s or 250-3000 savage should be about perfect with either 100 or 117 grain bullets.

We have a .257 Roberts, but with the 100gr Barnes X it damaged a Steinbok a little more than we would have liked. Of course, bones were hit, and this didn't help things.

I may try these Cutting Edge Bullets in their machined copper solid. Loaded in a .223 Rem at 2700-2800fps we may get pass throughs with very little damage.

.224 65gr MTAC (Match/Tactical) - 50ct

.224 55gr monolithic, solid copper match-grade projectile. This MTAC (Match/Tactical) bullet is a non-expanding, monolithic long-range bullet with a high BC, perfect for match and target use.

cuttingedgebullets.com

The 65 grain is about as heavy as you can go in a normal hunting rifle with a 1/9 rifling twist. Any heavier and you need a 1/8 twist, and a really fast 1/7 twist to keep the bullet traveling straight as it penetrates the animal. Worst case scenario would be for the bullet to yaw sideways, because that can cause more damage than a hollow point.

 

[Russ16]

I go back and forth on this question as there is no obvious best answer to me at least. Switching to a solid in your 375 is quite logical, if you have time to do that and often you do. On my last trip, I had a .416 in hand and had the tracker carry my 22 Hornet. That could have just as easily been a 223 as stated by others. I find that system to be quick and quiet and have settled on that for now. Of course, if you needed a one gun safari for some reason, then you have your answer in taking a pocket full of solids.

Is a solid really necessary. I find it doubtful an A-frame is going to open up at all when hitting a Dik Dik.

 

[Green Chile]

It's a good question and I've seen evidence both directions. I would be interested to hear more examples and photos of what is working for others.

I think bullet placement and lower velocity are the 2 key factors in not blowing up the T10. I shoot well behind the shoulders to avoid the skeletal structure of the little guys. That helps.

 

[channelkat]

Specifically with the Tiny Ten in mind, my choices would have to be either a .243 Winchester (loaded with the 100Gr Winchester Super X soft point) or a .22 Hornet (loaded with the 45Gr Winchester Super X soft point).

Just got in 5 boxes of Winchester soft points and a 77/ 22 hornet. I was a bit skeptical that (with the current us available bullets) that the 22 hornet was not going to tear up a little Dik Dik. Reading comments from folks like you is very reassuring.

 

[Russ16]

So if you want a classy .22 Hornet for this pursuit maybe this is the way to go.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1110381387

 

[channelkat]

So if you want a classy .22 Hornet for this pursuit maybe this is the way to go.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1110381387

Wow that might be a little too cla$$y of a hornet for the likes of me

 

[txtrout75218]

The 257 Robert’s or 250-3000 savage should be about perfect with either 100 or 117 grain bullets.

The 250 Savage is a great suggestion!

 

[txtrout75218]

So if you want a classy .22 Hornet for this pursuit maybe this is the way to go.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1110381387

I've handled that rifle. It's really cute.

 

[channelkat]

I have thought about starting a similar thread and trying to crowdsource the perfect tiny ten cartridge/ bullet/ speed combo. I know there are at least a few of us for which the tiny ten are not an ancillary opportunity. I have always heard 22 hornet was the way to go but (not having any 22 hornet experience) was skeptical of the available bullets and the speed at short distances for stuff like Dik dik. I have started to come to the conclusion that I will probably want two separate “perfect” tiny ten setups to ensure minimal damage for both close range and longer range species. I would like to do some experimenting with some slower/lighter loaded .284 or .30 cal solids. Shouldn’t they just pencil through if kept under around 2400?

 

[MS 9x56]

I have thought about starting a similar thread and trying to crowdsource the perfect tiny ten cartridge/ bullet/ speed combo. I know there are at least a few of us for which the tiny ten are not an ancillary opportunity. I have always heard 22 hornet was the way to go but (not having any 22 hornet experience) was skeptical of the available bullets and the speed at short distances for stuff like Dik dik. I have started to come to the conclusion that I will probably want two separate “perfect” tiny ten setups to ensure minimal damage for both close range and longer range species. I would like to do some experimenting with some slower/lighter loaded .284 or .30 cal solids. Shouldn’t they just pencil through if kept under around 2400?

Unless you hit bone.

 

[txtrout75218]

On 2400 fps and penciling through, also depends on the bullet construction.

 

[DieJager]

Well constructed bullet or solid behind the shoulder, medium velocity and you'll be fine.

What @IvW suggested is the best solution I've heard in this thread. Buy a drilling. That way multiple scenarios can be covered with one gun.
Sometimes a running shot at close quarters is needed, and a shotgun option is then preferable. But that is covered in the drilling.

Also used drillings and/or combination guns go for dirty cheap.

 

[Rellik]

I only have experience on 1 of the tiny ten when I was afforded an opportunity at a steenbok last April. Not wanting to use my 300 H&H, I used the PH's rifle, a 222, and it seemed to work just fine. Even though I hit a bit farther back than I would have liked, It knocked the critter down where it stood, there was no excessive damage, and let's be honest here, there is only one degree of dead.

 

[Philip Glass]

I didn't want to derail the thread on taking a 22mag or 22Hornet to Africa, but I wanted input on a few ideas for a Tiny Ten cartridge.

I've thought a long time about what would make the best Tiny Ten and night hunting cartridge. I have extensive experience with the 22mag as it was my first rifle. I never shot anything with that 22mag that I had to shoot twice! I always kept shots within 150 yards though.

The issue with both the 22mag and 22 Hornet is bullet selection and performance past 200 yards.

What we need is something that can kill, but not maim. A round that can be used for animals from 5-50 pounds, at close range to possibly 300 yards. A clean humane kill, with minimal pelt damage is the goal.

Thinking along those lines, the .257 Copperhead/Kimber, the 7mm TCU and the .300 Blackout might be the answer to our needs. However, each presents some problems.

Properly head stamped brass matching the stamp on the barrel when going through some African countries might be an issue, as the Copperhead and TCU have no current supplies of brass or ammo. Though all 3 are based on the 223/222mag case, only the 300BLK has brass and factory ammo available.
View attachment 702995

This cartridge makes the most sense as it is currently very popular, especially in suppressed firearms. Barrels, brass, loaded ammo, and reloading dies are easy to find. Data is also common in most modern loading manuals.

With 110 and 125 grain supersonic ammo, the 300BLK would be suitable for anything up to Impala. Velocities 2500fps and below would minimize pelt damage on Klipspringer and small Duikers. Factory loads with 150-220 grain bullets at subsonic speeds through a suppressor make for a superb night hunting combination.

Almost any .308dia bullet of any design including fmj, machined brass and copper solids, etc. could be used to minimize expansion or expand violently depending on the intended target animal.

I have personal experience with the 300Fireball, the predecessor to the 300BLK, in a 1/7 twist barrel shooting Sierra 240gr BTHP Match King bullets at 950fps through a suppressor. This was a ton of fun, and I believe once you shoot it, you'll want one.

"Once you hear the THWACK, you never go back" I say.

The downside to the 300BLK with subsonic bullets over 200 grains is the rainbow like trajectory. Shots with anything going 1100fps should be kept to 100 yards in my opinion, thus the consideration of the faster 25Copperhead and 7mmTCU.

I have a Tiny Ten hunt scheduled, and a T/F Contender carbine barrel would be an easy way to put this to the test.

Having only hunted Steinbok and Grey Duiker, my experience with the Tinies is minimal, so I'd enjoy input from others here.

By far the best Tiny Ten cartridge is the Barnes 5.56 70g TSX. This caliber and ammo will not damage even the little cats yet will easily take down the smaller PG. I did lots of field research with different loads and calibers before I came to this conclusion. I shot many different animals trying to decide what would be best for my specialized Tiny Ten and small cat safari a few years back. Easy to kill them but not easy to keep the little critters intact. By way of example I accidentally hit my wildcat in the neck yet the exit wound was less than a quarter in size meanwhile bushpig and a dozen springbuck went down hard.
The excellent results I've experienced over many years with this setup make it easy for me to recommend it over any other specialized Tiny Ten setup,

 

[AZDAVE]

My brain says take the 22 hornet. however in practice I never have due to the other animals on the list.
diker- 9.3x74
Klippy 9.3x62
Dik Dik 7REM MAG
oribi 6.5 grendel
cape grysbok 6.5grende
sunni 500/416
red diker 500/416
steenbuck 338 RCM
blue diker 6.5 creedmoor

still need the sharps grysbok

If you include the val Rehbok 6.5 creedmoor

 

[skydiver386]

By far the best Tiny Ten cartridge is the Barnes 5.56 70g TSX. This caliber and ammo will not damage even the little cats yet will easily take down the smaller PG. I did lots of field research with different loads and calibers before I came to this conclusion. I shot many different animals trying to decide what would be best for my specialized Tiny Ten and small cat safari a few years back. Easy to kill them but not easy to keep the little critters intact. By way of example I accidentally hit my wildcat in the neck yet the exit wound was less than a quarter in size meanwhile bushpig and a dozen springbuck went down hard.
The excellent results I've experienced over many years with this setup make it easy for me to recommend it over any other specialized Tiny Ten setup,

This man understands the assignment.

The only caveat to using a long bullet for caliber like this is rifling twist rate. The old .224 bullet 1 turn in 12 inch twist rate popular in the 1960's and prior was meant for 40gr bullets of that era. Heavier 62 grain bullet will not stabilize in the old rifles, and need a 1 turn in 9, and 70grain bullets require a 1 in 8, or even better a 1 turn in 7 twist. If the rifling twist is to slow, bullets will often keyhole, even at short ranges.

 

[bigborelover]

.30-06 with 220gr bullets in case something larger pops up.

 

[shark_za]

The .250 Savage is just an over fast 6.5 Grendel.
Rather shoot the heavier slower bullets, I went down this route trying to find the ideal impala rifle and the .250 usually comes in barrel twists that do not work with the 120gr bullets.
No problem with the Grendel.

 

[skydiver386]

The .250 Savage is just an over fast 6.5 Grendel.
Rather shoot the heavier slower bullets, I went down this route trying to find the ideal impala rifle and the .250 usually comes in barrel twists that do not work with the 120gr bullets.
No problem with the Grendel.

True, kinda sorta.

The 250 or .257 are 6.35mm.
Twist for most new .257 rifles will handle 117 grain bullets. Older rifles were optimized for 87 grain.

 

[MS 9x56]

The .250 Savage is just an over fast 6.5 Grendel.
Rather shoot the heavier slower bullets, I went down this route trying to find the ideal impala rifle and the .250 usually comes in barrel twists that do not work with the 120gr bullets.
No problem with the Grendel.

Most modern bolt rifles have fast twists that optimize heavier bullets. The older savage 99 rifles had 1-14 twist which did not stabilize heavier longer bullets. My Ruger RSI loves the 117 and 120 grain bullets in the 2600 fps range.