Thoughts about Leupold VX-3HD

[HookMeUpII]

Not sure why you would need to reset your hard zero in the field? If you're looking at an animal you want to take and are worried about your hard zero? That's not good. The solution is simple: Bring the small Leupold multi-wrench tool with you. I brought mine with me to RSA. Never needed it. Gun was dead on. One in our group was off and they got him sorted out at the lodge and he went on to do just fine.

I imagine the need to take the cap off with a tool is probably because they do not want you messing with your hard zero in the field. Let's think about that.

Zero it for 100 or 200 and call it a day.

 

[Papa72]

I have the VX-3HD 3.5-10x40 on my -06 and like it, especially the Firedot. No complaints with the CDS so far and found no reason to remove the cap once it was zero’d to 100.

 

[Laniarius]

Yes, it's unlikely that one would need to re-zero in the field and possibly need to move the POA down. Most likely if it seems like the zero is off or if you suspect it may be off if the rifles takes a fall. In that situation, I'd much rather just unscrew a cap in the field.

Also, while it's unlikely to break, having that little locking mechanism in the top dial is going to be more fragile than a cap on top of a built-in dial. And, if you happen to lose the CDS dial (say, in thick ground vegetation) the scope is less usable than if you lose a regular cap. The little oblong plate thing under the CDS dial usually requires a cloth or something to move it. It's doable, but awkward and annoying.

Yes, I'm talking about unlikely scenarios, but I don't think it's ridiculous. And for someone who doesn't shoot far enough to need to dial, I don't want the needless complication.

For those of you who dial, I'm glad it works for you. Some of us just have a strong preference for the look and function of a capped elevation dial (and it's especially irritating on a low power scope like some have mentioned).

I had to try the zero lock dial for myself to realize how much I don't like it. My only intention here was to flag it for others who maybe think the same way. I've seen others complain about the other aspects of the CDS dial that we don't like, but I don't recall seeing a specific comment about the need to undo the set screws on the CDS to zero.

 

[Boone66]

I just got one of these also, and have yet to really play with it, but like others have said, a lot of turrets need a small Allen wrench to do the zero. Like you, I was afraid of losing the tiny wrench. What I do is fold a strip of duct tape around the Allen wrench shaft, leaving a long tail on it. This let's me label it for the scope and makes it so I can find it if dropped. Use hiviz tape, and you won't lose it.

 

[Laniarius]

I love Leupold scopes in general, but I feel like a Winchester Model 70 enthusiast in 1965. If it takes as long for Leupold to return to the classic design as it did for Winchester, I might live to see it if I make it to 90 or so. But this is probably unlikely. Winchester was just cost cutting back in the day. With modern optics, it's a market shift towards the popularity of longer range shooting.

I also wish I could still use a BlackBerry. I hate touch screens. The market preference of a billion people is wrong, and I am right...

(Sarcasm alert, because that's often missed on the internet.)

 

[Safari Dave]

90% of my scopes are Leupolds, but, if you have to re-zero a scope, then something needs to be repaired or replaced.

IMO - scopes have 2 functions:

1. Provide a magnified, clear image of target and reticle
2. Hold zero

If they can't do both, then something needs to be changed.

 

[HookMeUpII]

I love Leupold scopes in general, but I feel like a Winchester Model 70 enthusiast in 1965. If it takes as long for Leupold to return to the classic design as it did for Winchester, I might live to see it if I make it to 90 or so. But this is probably unlikely. Winchester was just cost cutting back in the day. With modern optics, it's a market shift towards the popularity of longer range shooting.

I also wish I could still use a BlackBerry. I hate touch screens. The market preference of a billion people is wrong, and I am right...

(Sarcasm alert, because that's often missed on the internet.)

Probably should keep things in perspective here....

The went to a elevation cap secured by allen screws vs. threaded. It's not like they replaced the internal optics with an AI processor.

 

[Laniarius]

Probably should keep things in perspective here....

The went to a elevation cap secured by allen screws vs. threaded. It's not like they replaced the internal optics with an AI processor.

Haha fair enough. You're scaring me. But I understand there are optics that are all kitted up with modular electronic enhancements, like that new Vortex one for the military. As long as it works, it sounds like a good idea for the intended purpose.

 

[Nevada Mike]

Well... I never shoot at game at over about 350 yards. Not because I can't hit out further, but because (in the terrain I hunt) longer shots may make recovery rather chancy.

So I am kinda' old school and was trained when we didn't have rangefinders, I had to learn to estimate range and how to hold when sighting on game. I own a rangefinder now, but still use hold over when needed. This works if you know your rifle and loads. It is also faster than laser ranging and twirling dials.

So "old school" for sure.

 

[Rolly]

If you travel to hunt you will probably want to check the zero on your rifle. Or, if you forget ammo at home that you sighted in with you may need to resight. There are many reasons that you may have to adjust your crosshairs downward after once sighting in and replacing the CDS dial. Having to pack and FIND a 1/16 inch Allen wrench to make an adjustment downward on the reticle just makes things more difficult. But , that’s the way Leupold designed it.

 

[Graham Hunter]

I always take one or two of the Leupold mounting tools with me and leave them at Camp when I leave. About $20 ea. Have the Allen wrenches, flat blade, and torx. Fits most any rings and bases. About the size of a regular pocket knife. One is in my daypack all the time.

 

[dchum]

Well... I never shoot at game at over about 350 yards. Not because I can't hit out further, but because (in the terrain I hunt) longer shots may make recovery rather chancy.

So I am kinda' old school and was trained when we didn't have rangefinders, I had to learn to estimate range and how to hold when sighting on game. I own a rangefinder now, but still use hold over when needed. This works if you know your rifle and loads. It is also faster than laser ranging and twirling dials.

You don’t have laser range and dial every shot
But if you have time why not?

It’s just there if you have time and it ensures a greater chance of an ethical shot.

if it seems like the zero is off or if you suspect it may be off if the rifles takes a fall. In that situation, I'd much rather just unscrew a cap in the field.

Also, while it's unlikely to break, having that little locking mechanism in the top dial is going to be more fragile than a cap on top of a built-in dial. And, if you happen to lose the CDS dial (say, in thick ground vegetation) the scope is less usable than if you lose a regular cap. The little oblong plate thing under the CDS dial usually requires a cloth or something to move it. It's doable, but awkward and annoying.

Loosing it in the grass on a hunting trip, Really?

 

[Laniarius]

You don’t have laser range and dial every shot
But if you have time why not?

It’s just there if you have time and it ensures a greater chance of an ethical shot.


Loosing it in the grass on a hunting trip, Really?

I wake up in cold sweats thinking about it.

Ok fine, that's super low probability and not in itself a good reason to dislike a design. Several of us have explained above how and why we don't like them.

It's my fault for not digging deeper before I bought. I knew the cap could be removed to swap in a custom dial, but I didn't know you had to remove it just to zero. So I wanted to flag it in case it helps others. I absolutely would not have purchased this scope with the ZL dial knowing what I know now.

 

[Beck]

I gotta tell you I shot a fucking ginormous black bear in Saskatchewan a few years go using a VX-3HD. I was on reindeer lake, which is a huge very rough fucking lake. Our 20 foot aluminum boat was bouncing around on that lake like a tennis ball. I was terrified that the scope would lose its zero, it didn't

 

[Laniarius]

I gotta tell you I shot a fucking ginormous black bear in Saskatchewan a few years go using a VX-3HD. I was on reindeer lake, which is a huge very rough fucking lake. Our 20 foot aluminum boat was bouncing around on that lake like a tennis ball. I was terrified that the scope would lose its zero, it didn't

Very nice!

 

[Rickmt]

I have multiple Leupold vari x 3hd cds firedot scopes . I zero to 100 and dial out to 400 max. All work fine and if you are worried about losing Allen wrench buy extras. I also have multiple vari x 5 cds firedot and they are better but bigger. The two models are my go to scopes.

 

[HookMeUpII]

I gotta tell you I shot a fucking ginormous black bear in Saskatchewan a few years go using a VX-3HD. I was on reindeer lake, which is a huge very rough fucking lake. Our 20 foot aluminum boat was bouncing around on that lake like a tennis ball. I was terrified that the scope would lose its zero, it didn't

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This is their reputation. There are stories of hunters dropping their rifle from a sling breaking, slips and falls, etc. On everything from Africa hunts to side of the mountain sheep hunts. They go on to just shoot and it's still zeroed. I only have Leupolds now. Their customer service is top notch. The glass is on par with (maybe not better than, though) anything European I've looked through.

It's funny because all the PH's in RSA were loving and admiring the Leupolds we had. They are apparently super expensive and hard to get there. They all had Swaro's and Leica's on their rifles.

That's a hoss of a black bear btw.

 

[Mtn_Infantry]

I wake up in cold sweats thinking about it.

Ok fine, that's super low probability and not in itself a good reason to dislike a design. Several of us have explained above how and why we don't like them.

It's my fault for not digging deeper before I bought. I knew the cap could be removed to swap in a custom dial, but I didn't know you had to remove it just to zero. So I wanted to flag it in case it helps others. I absolutely would not have purchased this scope with the ZL dial knowing what I know now.

That’s the thing. You don’t need to remove the cap to zero (unless you need to go down further). If it’s shooting low just crank up until zeroed, and adjust windage until zeroed. Once zeroed make the new zero position IF you don’t want to move or adjust the turret to the marked zero position.

 

[Mtn_Infantry]

This is their reputation. There are stories of hunters dropping their rifle from a sling breaking, slips and falls, etc. On everything from Africa hunts to side of the mountain sheep hunts. They go on to just shoot and it's still zeroed. I only have Leupolds now. Their customer service is top notch. The glass is on par with (maybe not better than, though) anything European I've looked through.

It's funny because all the PH's in RSA were loving and admiring the Leupolds we had. They are apparently super expensive and hard to get there. They all had Swaro's and Leica's on their rifles.

That's a hoss of a black bear btw.

I’m genuinely curious to know what European glass you’ve looked through if you feel a VX3 is on par with it.

 

[WAB]

The Leupold zero stop is an excellent system. Personally I don’t see any utility in it inside 400 yards but I do use it on two long range rifles.

As far as glass quality, my Leupold MK 5 HD 3.6-18x44 is an awesome scope, but at last light my Swarovski Z6 1.7-10x42 is noticeably better.