Thoughts about Leupold VX-3HD

[Laniarius]

In case it helps others, I'd like to share something I probably could have realized before I bought a Leupold VX-3HD. I bought the scope (a 2.5-8x36) because I wanted to try something really light (about 12 oz or less), with magnification in about that range, and with good long eye relief. I know the Swaro Z3 3-9x36 has better glass but I want more than the 3.5" eye relief in the Swaro. The VX-3HD eye relief is 3.6" at 8x but varies to over 4" at lower magnification. Having it mounted on the rifle and trying various comparisons and measuring it, I found the Leupold published eye relief to be accurate for this scope, as far as I could tell. I decided to try to the VX-3HD instead of a used 3i or older VX-3, because I've read that the HD is a step up in quality.

I have owned a VX-Freedom scope with the CDS dial, but sold it because I almost never have an opportunity to shoot much past 100-150 yards and I like to keep it simple. For this new scope, I was willing to live with a wheelygig I didn't want for the sake of the best glass I could get given my other parameters. I knew that the VX-3HD had a locking CDS, but I didn't realize that this meant that you have to remove it to zero the elevation. I get that the idea is you zero at some relatively short zeroing range, then only have to dial up for farther shots. Then, it's easy to return to zero and lock it back there. That seems like a good idea, and I can see the benefit for people who can expect to shoot longer ranges than I do. I've only used the basic dial that comes with the scope so far, but as I understand it the same thing applies when you use a custom dial.

I just don't like the idea of having to fish out a tiny Allen wrench to zero a scope. Maybe it's stupid that I didn't fully research that detail before buying. I just thought, "ok, the higher end CDS dials have a zero lock, sounds ok". Having tried it now, it makes me picture a situation where you drop the rifle and need to re-zero. If you need to go up a few clicks, that's easy, but to go down past the locked zero, you need to remove the CDS cap. I don't want to have to use a small tool for that. Similarly, travelling to Africa and adjusting zero at elevation and temperature different from home. It's not a huge problem but it bothers me. One could easily lose the tiny Allen wrench. Anyway, I really should have gone for an older scope without the wheelygig. The 3i and earlier models are probably good enough and I'd rather have the simplicity of only having to unscrew a cap to zero. I will not be keeping this scope.

 

[Lance Hopper]

My first thought is that the Swaro glass is not in the same class with the Leupold HD glass. But that’s my eyes in my opinion. I think the Leupold is far Superior product. Have been using the CDS with zero stop for a while and it is zero bother once you get used to the system. Those tiny Allen wrenches are cheap so buy a dozen and stick them everywhere. It really is, a very small price to pay for the convenience of being able to spin the dial and simply turning it back down. And if you zero at 100 yards, there should never be a reason you wanted to go below that zero.

 

[Laniarius]

Thanks. I haven't tried the Z3 and admittedly was just reciting what seemed to be the most common opinion on comparing it to the VX-3. Maybe with the HD it's surpassed it? There also seems to be different opinions sometimes about glass quality even among experienced people.

Yes, one could just have a few of the small Allen wrenches.

 

[Uxas]

I love the Firedot reticle. I tend to agree with the long range limitations when it comes to holding for windage. I still can't bring myself to replacing a VXR on my whitetail woods rifle. It is a set and leave it setup. The VX5HD also has the Firedot, but is used for longer range. I've been very fortunate to never had problems with Leupold scopes. I lost count on the number I have owned. Trying a Zeiss V6 now and so far so good, but I miss illumination. Next scope will be alpha level, not because I really need it, but you only live once.

 

[375Fox]

I’m really opposed to the CDS dials as the only option. I wish there was a way to screw a cap over top of them once sighted in. I just have no use for it and see it as a liability. It’s too bad because Leupold is my favorite scope. I think I’m going to look at trijicon if I need a 1” scope. The crosshairs are too fine on Swarovski for me without illuminated reticle. Luckily Leupold still makes the 30mm VX5 2-10 non-CDS but options are getting limited.

 

[375Fox]

I gave this scope a try too because I’m really impressed with their binoculars, but it’s too short for a magnum action to look through comfortably. I think it would do very well on a standard action.

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[whisk(e)y hunter]

I’ve been very happy with a VX-3HD on my 375 Ruger, have fired well over 100 rounds with no loss of zero or other issue. I enjoy the adjustable elevation and zero-stop, and just make sure to travel with a multi-tool in case I were to ever need to drop the zero.

 

[Mtn_Infantry]

I’ll start by saying I like the CDS for what it is, but it’s not a perfect system, and IMO it’s tricked a lot of people. I do utilize the custom turrets for a specific load/place but many times dial my scope ignoring what’s cut on the turret for the ballistic solution I’m getting due to other bullets, wind, weather, elevation, humidity, etc. IMO a lot of the current CDS users have been fooled by the marketing behind it, similarly to what many people thought a BDC type reticle was when they first came out. I think there’s a fair number of people who take/attempt shots they shouldn’t, haven’t, practiced, or are behind their skill set because of it.

Now to speak to the OP’s comments unscrewing a scope’s elevation cap/turret to set the zero stop is a pretty standard practice among the different optics companies using a zero stop. Not all turn the cap to a marked zero that’s cut to not allow it to spin further like Leupold, some require shims, spacers, or other adjustment in the cap before the cap/dial is reinstalled at the new Zero. The Zero Stop doesn’t just magically move to the newfound zero position for that rifle/load. Conversely with the CDS turret it needs to have that silver button pushed in to turn up or down. This can certainly happen accidentally but it is harder to do than some other optic companies turrets which just spin without needing to engage anything.

Some ideas for the OP, if you don’t want to remove the cap to set the zero stop then take a very fine sharpie or paint pen and draw a line for your new zero on the turret and the scopes indication mark. When they’re aligned you’re zeroed if they’re not aligned, your scope dial has turned up or down. This will let you also have more adjustability should you need to make adjustments when traveling. Your line will be off but at least you can adjust down if need be without removing the cap if you don’t have or forget the supplied Allen Key. Additionally the supplied Allen key is a fairly standard/common size. Some shooters will also mark a line on the scope’s tube parallel to the rings. This is so they can observe is the scope moving under recoil or on an extremely hard drop/bump. Whiteout/paint also works very well since it’ll break apart should it move.

 

[Laniarius]

I’ll start by saying I like the CDS for what it is, but it’s not a perfect system, and IMO it’s tricked a lot of people. I do utilize the custom turrets for a specific load/place but many times dial my scope ignoring what’s cut on the turret for the ballistic solution I’m getting due to other bullets, wind, weather, elevation, humidity, etc. IMO a lot of the current CDS users have been fooled by the marketing behind it, similarly to what many people thought a BDC type reticle was when they first came out. I think there’s a fair number of people who take/attempt shots they shouldn’t, haven’t, practiced, or are behind their skill set because of it.

Now to speak to the OP’s comments unscrewing a scope’s elevation cap/turret to set the zero stop is a pretty standard practice among the different optics companies using a zero stop. Not all turn the cap to a marked zero that’s cut to not allow it to spin further like Leupold, some require shims, spacers, or other adjustment in the cap before the cap/dial is reinstalled at the new Zero. The Zero Stop doesn’t just magically move to the newfound zero position for that rifle/load. Conversely with the CDS turret it needs to have that silver button pushed in to turn up or down. This can certainly happen accidentally but it is harder to do than some other optic companies turrets which just spin without needing to engage anything.

Some ideas for the OP, if you don’t want to remove the cap to set the zero stop then take a very fine sharpie or paint pen and draw a line for your new zero on the turret and the scopes indication mark. When they’re aligned you’re zeroed if they’re not aligned, your scope dial has turned up or down. This will let you also have more adjustability should you need to make adjustments when traveling. Your line will be off but at least you can adjust down if need be without removing the cap if you don’t have or forget the supplied Allen Key. Additionally the supplied Allen key is a fairly standard/common size. Some shooters will also mark a line on the scope’s tube parallel to the rings. This is so they can observe is the scope moving under recoil or on an extremely hard drop/bump. Whiteout/paint also works very well since it’ll break apart should it move.

Thanks, some good ideas. I can see why many like the CDS. I just don't. I thought I could live with it on the 2.5-8 as a compromise, but for someone who doesn't shoot far enough to need to dial, I would much rather just have a capped dial.

I've got a VX-5 2-10 non-CDS that I may put back on this rifle. I thought I'd try a more compact option but there simply isn't one in current production that fits my preferences.

 

[Mtn_Infantry]

Thanks, some good ideas. I can see why many like the CDS. I just don't. I thought I could live with it on the 2.5-8 as a compromise, but for someone who doesn't shoot far enough to need to dial, I would much rather just have a capped dial.

I've got a VX-5 2-10 non-CDS that I may put back on this rifle. I thought I'd try a more compact option but there simply isn't one in current production that fits my preferences.

The 2.5-8 is a cool little scope. I think the Z3 3-9-36 is better glass but if you like the look and weight of the VX3 2.5-8 stick with it. It’s a good bit lighter than the 2-10 and you’re still unscrewing a cap to adjust/lock zero. With CDS you just need the screws. Personally I’d set the zero stop and move on since you’re not shooting distances where it’ll matter. Save the custom turret, you can also jam that Allen Key into your recoil pad so you always have it if that’s your worry when traveling, but again it sounds like you might do that once or twice a year where you’ll need to worry about that given your shooting distances

 

[whisk(e)y hunter]

I’ll add I don’t intend to use the CDS reticle but do use an MOA adjustment after knowing my rifle’s dope. I agree that a solely yardage-based adjustment on the CDS dial will not cover all climates and altitudes.

 

[Graham Hunter]

I’m really opposed to the CDS dials as the only option. I wish there was a way to screw a cap over top of them once sighted in. I just have no use for it and see it as a liability. It’s too bad because Leupold is my favorite scope. I think I’m going to look at trijicon if I need a 1” scope. The crosshairs are too fine on Swarovski for me without illuminated reticle. Luckily Leupold still makes the 30mm VX5 2-10 non-CDS but options are getting limited.

I believe you do have the no turret CDS now.

 

[375Fox]

I believe you do have the no turret CDS now.

I’m not sure I understand your point replying to my post? I realize it’s the same internals, however the non-CDS option has nothing designed to move externally once the cap is screwed on. The CDS turret option is designed to move externally with push of a button. I have no desire to hunt past 350 yards. I’ve never had an issue with a simple duplex and knowing proper hold over if necessary. The CDS turret adds no value to me except having something that can break or accidentally move much more easily than the alternative. I also simply don’t like the look.

 

[Graham Hunter]

I'm not sure I understand your point replying to my post? CDS or not CDS. Simple.

 

[sureshot375]

1. I really like the vx-3. It’s a tried and true workhorse scope.

2. I really wish they didn’t put CDS on everything. 90% of my rifle use has no need for a dial system.

3. Having cds isn’t going to keep me from buying a scope. I’ll just have tons of those little Allen wrenches.

 

[Puddle]

My aging eyes like the idea of the Firedot reticle, however I don't need a dial-a-distance elevation knob as I'm comfortable using Maximum Point-Blank Range zeros on my big game rifles.

 

[dchum]

I have a vx-3 3.5-10. With cds.

I just use the moa dial. Luckily mine tracks great and dials back. I don’t shoot past 400 yards really. But I can dial to 7.6 moa and smack the gong at 405 yards with 168ttsx all day.

I have never had an issue with the exposed turret moving on any of my hunting trips. It locks and the button does not get pressed on accident. Good design.

Aoudad pictured was killed at 386 yards with a 100 yard zero. 30-06
Dialed up and point and shoot.

I have heard of issues with this model scope tracking and returning to zero. It usually does not pass rigorous dial testing. But for my use it’s great.

 

[Rolly]

I too have a problem with the CDS . Who wants to fiddle with a 1/16 inch Allen wrench to adjust your crosshairs downward? I wrote to Leupold and they said that their custom shop would have been able to accommodate me but…..it is permanently closed! Great, that’s great customer support. I think I’ll just sight in low so that I can move the CDS dial both up and down before the stupid push bitten engages the stop.

 

[Nevada Mike]

1. I really like the vx-3. It’s a tried and true workhorse scope.

2. I really wish they didn’t put CDS on everything. 90% of my rifle use has no need for a dial system.

3. Having cds isn’t going to keep me from buying a scope. I’ll just have tons of those little Allen wrenches.

Ditto. I bought a VXHD 1- 6X and it came fitted with the CDS - WHY? Ditto with the several VX3 1.5-5X scopes... really?

I want simplicity not complexity. But I expect that Leupold feels that the more whistles and bells, the better "modern" shooters will like it.

 

[dchum]

I too have a problem with the CDS . Who wants to fiddle with a 1/16 inch Allen wrench to adjust your crosshairs downward? I wrote to Leupold and they said that their custom shop would have been able to accommodate me but…..it is permanently closed! Great, that’s great customer support. I think I’ll just sight in low so that I can move the CDS dial both up and down before the stupid push bitten engages the stop.

What is the issue? Why do You move your poa down while hunting?

Or Are you wanting to use different ammo with the same set up? But the 10 second process is affecting your ablitty to do so?