Still alive
AH enthusiast
On the second set of stone holder I use a oil double stone that has 500-600/ 800-1000. I can’t say enough about the sharper. I clamp it down and go to work.
I have much finer stones but I have found that for a working knife that the very light toothyness of this stone gives the best results in the field. Exhibition cutting is another thing where the finest stones make for a smooth edge but that is not what we want nor need for the vast majority of using blades. I always finish with the strop but even that under a microscope leaves very faint teeth caused by the grit in the stropping compound.Do you only use a 320 grit on your blades? I thought it would be more like 600?
I have done the 12 1/2 inch cimeters on this with ease and could sharpen longer blades if needed.This looks like what Lansky was trying to do with their little $30 kit. It worked great for my short-ish knives, but not so hot on long blades like my 10" chef's knife of even my 6" butcher knife.
Seriously good equipment in heavy stainless plate. I have done over 600 knives on mine and it is as good as the day I got it.the little vice you get with Lansky...just isn't up to holding onto heavier blades - aluminum and a pair of light screws to clamp down.
this looks like a cool setup.
Yes it's similar but a more commercial or heavy duty model. The principal is the same and in principle it is simple.This looks like what Lansky was trying to do with their little $30 kit. It worked great for my short-ish knives, but not so hot on long blades like my 10" chef's knife of even my 6" butcher knife.
I apply pressure both ways but less on the back strokem mainly to keep the stone and guide bar flat and it builds the rythem.I am watching the video again. Do you apply pressure in both directions? I ask because I was taught to apply pressure away from the spine.
Every one of the knives I send off has been sharpened on this system and any knife that has seen some use should be able to come back to "sharp" with out a lot of effort. The most important thing is the set the blade in the holding beak to the same position each time so the same bevel is being sharpened without trying to set a different angle each time so it may be a good idea to keep a log of the exact depth you set the blade into the beak, that is to measure from the center of the blade to the edge and use that as a reference each time you may have to touch up the blade and in which case only the fine stone should be needed with the coarse stone reserved for blades that may be from other makers and need the secondary bevel set or an old blade that has had damage to its edge. I did hear from one user who found an old knife that had been abused as a garden tool for many years and he bought it back into excellent condition within a short time frame on this system.I just watched this video again. Thank you for posting it!
What compound do you use for your leather strop?
Is the sharpening sequence that you did in the video the same as for all knives you send off? I ask because the knives I got from you were wonderfully sharp and I’m amazed how quickly you can get an edge that sharp.
The first part of the video appears to have a two post guide at the top of the system, but your shop uses what looks like a 12” flat bar at the top. Any drawbacks to the two post system?
Can you post a photo of all of the pieces that come in the sharpening system?
As the guy who sharpens the knives in my hunting party I’m looking for an effective and efficient system. My KME sharpener is great for broadheads... but much too slow for bigger knives.
The box I ship in is 12 x 10 and 6 1/2 inches high.Thanks for the photo. It looks like it will all fit in a shoebox? Does that sound about right?
How about longevity? How many knives would you estimate I can sharpen with this setup before having to replace the stones? (It seems like everything else is pretty indestructible.)
note: I ask these questions because I tried buying a larger sharpening system the “Ruixin pro” I suspected it might not be very good, well I was right and it turned out to be cheaply made and not worth the money.
Never tried one of those Newby. I started out with the best and saw no reason to try anything else.Been aware of Scary Sharp for a while, but didn't know about the compact system.
How does it stack up against the Wicked Edge offerings ?