TANZANIA: Tanzania Recap

  • Day 8 (Wednesday July 17th )
    • I had mixed feelings and could barely put into words the events of this day when I called home to tell Cassie about it right before I tried and failed to fall asleep at the end of this day. This was a top ten, possibly a top 4 day in my life right behind my wedding and the birth of both boys. I will do my best to explain the day and how it went from adrenalin peaks to crash over and over throughout the day.
    • We started off very early, I think we were wheels up and in rally car mode speeding away from camp at 5:00 AM. It was a cool and refreshing morning to this fat Texas kid. I believe the temperature was in the upper 60s, but you would have thought we were bracing for a snow storm the way the boys on the back of the truck were bundled up. We speed through the early morning for nearly an hour. Creatures of the night did their best to dash out of the way, we saw a genet cat and a civet cat at different places and even saw an extremely distraught baby elephant make a mad dash through the headlights with its trunk flopping and flailing through the air. I pictured a kid in a store aisle that has just become aware of the fact that mom and dad are no longer around, and they take off in utter terror that they might be left. This elephant had that look. I am not sure how old it was, but it was taller than the hood of the truck, but not taller than the roof but it was sure moving. We speed through the sleeping town of Ngarimi Village. I could see dimly lit figures stoking small fires outside their front doors as I imagine they were preparing to set a pot of coffee or start breakfast. Otherwise, the village was extremely quit as we passed. We were hunting buffalo and were hoping to time our arrival on the western side of the village with the buffalo heading back across the main road from south to north. They spend the night feeding in the village crop fields over night and slip back into the thick brush on the north side of the road as day is breaking. We had gone about 2 miles out of town when Patsun spotted a bull and was out of his seat and almost to the ground before the truck came to a stop. I will admit that the cool air and the drive had my fingers cold and I found myself wishing I had worn gloves as I was feebly fumbling a solid into the chamber. We speed off into the brush and the sharp eyes of Patsun and Aisha quickly found the minutes old track. We followed the track slowly and quietly; we knew we were merely minutes behind this buffalo. We came around the corner of some brush and found ourselves fully exposed and in the open with a mixed herd of wildebeest and impala directly in front of us. It appeared to us that the buffalo had made hast through this group of wide eyed animals and we were going to have to work our way around them to avoid alerting half of the country to our presence. Asiah dutifully and slowly followed the track towards the watchful herd and to our relief the buff had turned before the herd and angled to our right. We quickened the pace and had not traveled very far when the buffalo broke out of cover maybe 40 yards ahead of us and to our right. Immediately Lupo started forcefully shouting “shoot that buffalo……….shoot that BUFFALO…..SHOOT THAT BUFFALO!”. He covered roughly 60 yards very quickly and as luck would have it stopped directly behind a large tree. The tree was big enough to completely hid this 1,500 pound animal. All I could see was his back left knee and hoof. All the while Lupo is repeating at just a little bit quieter than a shout “SHOOT THAT BUFFALO”. Asiha was two steps to my right with the shooting sticks. He threw them up, I stepped over and got the gun on them. The buffalo broke from cover and Lupo shouted “ON THE RUN”. I squeezed off a running shot at roughly 80 yards. Lupo heard the impact and the buffalo disappeared out of site with a crash and a bunch of bellowing and grunting. We took 30 seconds to discuss the shot and followed after. We went to the spot of the shot and began the track. Lupo, Asiha and Patsun in the lead, Ryan and I in the middle with Sadee behind us with a 375. We came through a small low. Ryan and I had dropped back to allow the guys to work out the track. We were roughly 10-20 yards behind them when we heard movement to my left about 20 yards away. Lupo turned and yelled to shoot, but I could not identify the source of the noise. It was a dark bramble of brush that the buffalo was in. Then he stood up and all hell broke loose. Sadee and I both shot 3 time and Lupo shot twice. The result of the lead going down range was that the buffalo only went another 10 yards before crashing down and letting out the first death bellow I have ever heard in person. He was a monster by all accounts. He had smooth wide bosses with an incredible mass that he carried all the way to the tips of his horns. He had very little rearward sweep as he carried all his length out to the side and his upward hook. I knew only that he looked enormous, I was naïve to just how impressive he actually is. Initial measurement had him at almost 42 inches wide, but he had much more character to him than just his width. He had a roman nose that is characteristic of an old animal, and his face was cris crossed with long healed scars. He had blown several layers of horn off his left boss. The kind of damage that must only come from blunt force trauma. I hate to see what the other guy looked like after that fight. His ears were tattered and beat up around the edges from years of fighting. He was losing the hair on his face and turning white which is another indication of age, but an examination of the entire animal showed how much muscle mass this animal had once carried. You could clearly by the way the skin hung around his neck and draped across his shoulders and hips; this prize fighter had lost an enormous amount of body condition. If you took it all into consideration and wound back time in your mind, the animal laying before me would have been a mountainous beast in his prime. Likely every bit the animal you hear described in stories and probably just at terrifying. I am not sure I will ever shoot a buffalo that has everything that this one has. Mass, age, width and character, but I am honored to have been blessed to see this animal in person. I knew without a doubt that I did not have the space to shoulder mount this monster, but I took a picture of this beast as he laid there. Its this picture that will probably make me regret the decision to do a euro for a long time. Its a picture of his scared face, his roman nose and dewlap and I can only imagine how a great taxidermist could have done this warrior the justice he deserved.
    • We called the bigger truck to come meet us and make packing out this monster easier. Lupo and I sat down for some instant coffee and had an impromptu therapy session that only happens at random times like this. No sense in trying to describe the conversation, that isn't the point of my even noting it. It was the type of conversation that only those of us that have experienced can appreciate and I certainly did. I hope the council I provided was as helpful as his was to me.
    • As I said, this day was full of adrenaline peaks and crashes. I was calming down from the morning and the buffalo as we loaded back up in the cruiser. We made the short drive back through town and made an unexpected turn between two narrowly spaced huts and were very quickly in the thick brush just outside of town. We were not more than three or four hundred yards outside of town when the truck stopped. There laying in the brush not 100 yards away were two Dugga boys laying in the shade. I was shocked when Lupo jumped out of the truck. I grabbed the 375, climbed down and went to chamber a round. It was then that I realized I had not refilled my magazine or the shell carrier on the butt of my gun. I had 3 softs and a single solid with me as I rounded the corner of the truck. I chambered the single round and got on the sticks next to Lupo. He was assessing and waiting for the larger buffalo to clear when they broke and ran into the brush. Lupo was off like a flash. I took this opportunity to try and refill the magazine. I guess that Lupo would want the solid to be followed by the softs. I was running behind Lupo and falling behind while desperately trying to jam cartridges into the gun. I caught up to Lupo as he set the sticks again. The buffalo were 100 yards ahead of us looking at us like we were annoying, but there was no shot and they moved off again. I took the opportunity to confirm the solid soft configuration and we were off again. We closed on them within a couple hundred feet, but they where in some thick brush and the smaller bull was blocking the larger one. Lupo crawled to the left roughly 20 feet to check a shooting lane and beckoned me over. I crawled to him, and we attempted to set the shooting sticks very low for a sitting shot. The homemade sticks are amazing and the wood they are made out of is flexible and hard. You feel like you could beat a lion with them, and they wouldn’t break. However, the hand carved end of them is rounded from use and was slipping at the extreme angle. I could not get a steady rest. The buffalo figured out what was happening and moved off into the brush. We set off in pursuit, but as we had come to learn. Buffalo and many game species will walk with their butt into the wind and switch back and forth to keep it there when pursued. Nature is amazing in that way. They can walk away from a predator with the wind bringing them constant updates about their pursuer. Once it is clear that this is what is happening, you are in for a very long day. Your only strategy is to follow the trail and hope you catch the animal in a clearing or taking a break in the shade. One of you is going to break. Lupo recognized the game at hand and called off the pursuit. As we found to be typical at the end of an animal less tracking job, the fire bugs went to work and set the countryside ablaze. I began to come down off the second adrenaline high of the day.
    • We grabbed some water and loaded back up on the truck. As we drove the twin fire bugs sitting in the back of the truck took turns setting fires on the move. We had driven less than 20 minutes when the truck slammed to a stop and off we jump. Lupo had spotted a solitary Wildebeest in the wide open. We ran to a tree, and he judge it to be a bull. The sticks went up and there stood a beautiful wildebeest broadside at 150 yards. I distinctly remember thinking to myself. There is no f-ing way that I am here right now. I was not expecting to be behind the gun again on this day. What can I say, my mind was not in the right place, and I rushed the shot. The buffalo bucked at the shot and ran the lope goofy gallop that only wildebeest have and then inexplicitly stopped to turn and look back. He was nearly 300 yards away facing directly at me. I tried to calm the nerves and clear the head knowing that this animal was not going to stand for long. I freaking air mailed the shot. I am the luckiest SOB to because this bullet was probably 10 feet over this animal’s head and landed at least 1000 yards behind it. He must have not heard the shot or the bullet because he didn’t move. Now I was mad, I took a deep breath, settled back onto the sticks and held at his nose. I was blessed and the bullet caught him perfectly on the right side of his chest. He ran about 100 yards spouting blood and fell over. He was a monster in the prime of his life. His coloration was bright and vibrant, he had a thick and full neck. Lupo was amazed at how big he was at nearly 27.5 inches wide. I couldn’t believe how lucky I was on this day.
    • We drove by the Lion bait tree that we had seen the big leopard with the hopes that he had moved to the nearby tree we had set up. We were all disappointed that he had not returned to either bait. We began discussing the second cat we had coming to the Korungo bait.
    • A quick lunch and a nap and we were off to sit in the leopard blind. Ryan had confessed that he could not breath well in the popup blind the first time we had sat, and he would rather stay with the boys at the truck. I thought he might have issues when we gave it a shot, his seasonal allergy triggered ashma was an issue. Lupo and I got in the blind about 4:00 and proceeded to spend the next 2.5 hours sweating our asses off. I don’t believe I have ever sat so still for that long. We were only 35 yards from the bait and needed to be absolutely still. I spent the whole time saying silent prayers and visualizing the shot placement. I was petrified that I would make a poor shot and be responsible for Lupo and our crew having to set off in the dark to track a wounded leopard. At about 6:30 Lupo whispered that this was probably a morning cat, and I mentally began to relax. I was profoundly shocked when the cat shot up from the ground and landed without a sound on the limb that was 8 feet off the ground at 6:45. I should have known better than to let my guard down, but here we were. I instantly started shaking. It has been a while since I had buck fever. Thinking back on it, I didn’t even shake with either of two buffalo. I am not even sure I shook this much with my first whitetail kill. Even Lupo confessed that he was excited. I got on the gun and clicked off the safety. Laid my head on the stock and said a quiet prayer. I know Lupo had to confirm it was a male and then that it was the mature one we were here for. I opened my eyes and watch the cat sitting on the crook of the tree through the scope. Lupo confirmed that I was waiting until he cleared me. I confirmed. All the while slowing my heart rate and controlling my breathing. The cat stood and began the balance beam walk up the branch from my left to my right, just like we had seen on the trail camera. As he brought his back right leg forward I saw testicles and I knew it was go time. The cat approached the bait and slowed to look around. Lupo asked if I had a shot, I confirmed, and he told me to take him. I picked a rosette just behind his shoulder and began squeezing the trigger. I had a rock solid rest and the cat looked like a stone statue on the branch. Slow steady pressure and when the gun went off, I was confident of the shot. I saw him fall out of site and heard him hit the ground. Then he let out the saddest and yet most beautiful growl as he died. I didn’t know it at the time, but the game camera that was set at the bait did not pick up the actual shot, but it did record the sound he made, and I am eternally grateful because it is haunting. I have already listened to it countless times on my phone, but as luck would have it, I was down at the batting cage when we got home, and I was showing the video to neighbor that had stopped by to visit. I had my phone hooked up to the big speaker we use to play music. I turned the volume way up and it is very close to how I remember hearing it while sitting in that stand. It was an encompassing sound that surrounded both of us sitting there. Lupo was immediately confident that we would find him dead under the tree. I was not as convinced. Lupo said “Come on, he’s dead under the tree. Let’s go look at him” I believe my response was something close to I am going to need a minute. The cat a spectacular animal, and I am very proud of my shooting. However, I cannot express how relieved I was that the team that I had come to know did not have to put themselves in harms way was an immense relief.
    • Lupo called up the truck and there where hugs and hand shakes all around. I can think of only two other people that I would have wanted to be there, but other than that it was perfect. I was made only better by Lupo’s decision to carry the heavy cat down into the sandy bottom Korungo that he had come out of for the trophy pictures. The setting could not have been more perfect. The pictures do not do justice to the scene. I believe that night was a full moon and it had blessed us with an early appearance. The moon provided enough light that no torch was needed to see the beauty of this animal as they laid him on a high spot of sand. The unfortunate part of it is that the phone cameras could not capture it the way we saw it and I will have to hope my memory of it does not fade. I was amazed that as we were done taking pictures, I climbed up the sandy slope out of the Korungo and looked back down as the boys were preparing to pick up the big cat and carry him to the truck. There he lay in the middle of the spot of sand with the bright moonlight shining on him and it was stunningly easy to imagine this powerful killing machine with his spots stepping into the nearby shadows and utterly disappearing before your eyes. I was immediately aware of how close you could be to a creature that size and never even be aware of their presence.
    • As we drove back, I was immensely excited about the Kabubi celebration I knew was coming. I had heard stories and seen videos from Kelly about the welcoming committee and I had been honored to my core to be there when Ian was escorted through camp by the staff. I know that sounds silly to feel like that but standing there listening to the genuine joy in the voices and hearing the song in a different language and banging of pans. I tell you it was a moment of pure and simple happiness that everyone at camp felt for the success that Ian had. I was ready, and I was not disappointed. Having Ryan there made it all the better. Then two things happened that I hope I always remember because I cherish them deeply. The camp staff helped Ryan to “hug” the leopard like he wanted to (and the little shit made it look easy holding up that 140 pound cat). And then as the camp staff was taking turns holding him and taking selfies, we all retired to the mess tent. Lupo sort of asked sort of told me we were having a whisky, and I was certainly not upset by that, we needed to calm the nerves of the day. But then Ryan announced that he wanted a whisky as well. The three of us stood together, toasted and shared a swig of whiskey together and it meant the world to me.
    • I took a long time to come down from the final adrenaline rush. A call back home to describe the day helped, but it was a long time before I could finally calm down and allow myself to sleep. I supposed I took it for granted that Ryan was riding the highs with me because he left the mess tent early to go to bed. I took a picture of him in bed laying on his back with his hands resting on his chest. I woke around 3:00 to use the restroom and Ryan was still in that position when I checked on him.
    • I decided as I was writing this that I will name the leopard the Korungo Cat.
 

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  • Day 9 (Thursday July 18th)
    • This felt very much like Sunday or Day 5 of the trip for Ryan and I. At least for the morning portion of the day. As I recall, we slept in a bit and had a relaxing breakfast. Franz was planning to ride with us for the day and off we went. I don’t recall most of the details of the morning as I am recalling all of this now that we are back home. However, I do remember the events of Ryans enormous Wildebeest. It was very near the end of the day. We were driving through some very open country and that been burned over and the grass was sprouting. There in the middle of the bush, we randomly came across Ian and Simon driving in the same area. I was guess that it was around 5:30 PM. We stopped and got out of the trucks and were asking how their days had gone. Ian was recounting to us how he shot his Bush Pig and we found out that Matt had connected on a very nice warthog in another area. Ian told us about the elephant herd that they had seen. I don’t recall the number, but there was apparently a very big bull with the herd. I overhead Lupo say that he thought the bull might be around 70 pounds. There was a very short conversation about hunting the bull, but that definitely wasn’t on the list for this trip. However, Patsun was fired up about the elephant. Turns out that he really enjoys hunting elephant. Even though I couldn’t understand what he was saying, it was very clear that he was trying to convince Lupo to go after them. as we were leaving, Ian mentioned a lone Wildebeest bull that was with a group of impala not to far from where we were gathered.
    • We left the make shift field reunion/catch up and headed towards the area they had seen the wildebeest. We weren’t 5 minutes down the road and Patsun spotted them WAY out in the distance. I didn’t range it, but I bet they were half a mile away and looked like specs of sand at that range. It was evident pretty quickly that there was no logical way to approach this group on foot. Lupo had Amari, our driver, drive towards the herd as if we were just passing by. They where in the open with a large outcropping of trees behind them. the area looked like a low in an otherwise flat floodplain and it was now dry. Amari drove past the herd and around the back of the brushy area. We very quietly jumped off the truck and at nearly a run, cut through the trees and popped out behind a very large tree in the bottom of a low that previously held water. Lupo checked the lone bull and turned to Ryan. He told him it he was going to need to shoot quickly. They stepped out and Ryan got on the sticks. His first shot hit the bull, but he ran another 100 yards away and turned to look back. It was a very long broadside shot for the follow up. Lupo told Ryan to hold high as the .308 would drop. I am not sure Ryan heard and he held at the normal mid shoulder location. The shot dropped and it hit the bull very low on the front shoulder completely breaking the right front leg. I was not there for when they eventually gut the animal, but I suspect at least part of the bullet or perhaps bone had made it into at least part of one lung. The animal took off and ran and we had to follow it up, but I don’t believe that the only injury was the front leg because. We took off across the field and ran over to where we saw the bull disappear into the brush. Patsun and Aisha were quick to pick up blood, but let me tell you it was hard to follow in this burned over area. Spots of blood on leaves were the best we could hope for and nerves were on high alert. They call wildebeest the poor mans buffalo and there is good reason for it. I don’t know how far we tracked the bull, but we approached a drainage and the brush was beginning to thicken. As we came through the low, the bull jumped up and was up and running. Lupo, Ryan and I all shot at it and he went down. Lupo grabbed the sticks and Ryan got on them with the .308, but he was out of bullets. I gave Ryan my .300WM and from roughly 40 yards he put a bullet in the bulls sternum and it was over.
    • Ryan had shot a true giant for the area. We all had to stop and take a moment to appreciate the size of this thing. Has huge bosses and when we finally put a tape to him, he was over 28 inches wide. Much like my second buffalo, you could see the remnants of what must have been a true monarch of his time. His condition was fading, and as only old bulls do, he was solitary. I found it to be quite remarkable that we had found him in with a herd of impala. This old timer clearly knew that there was safety in numbers and was smart enough to know that the impala wouldn’t harass him like his own kind would, but the collection of eyeballs they provided would help extend his life. He had lost much of his size that was evident in the loose skin around his neck and his hips and shoulders were thinning. Another truly remarkable animal was in the salt.
 

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  • Day 10 (Friday July 19th)
    • We slept in on this day. I can recall this because I have pictures of an amazing sunrise on my phone to remember it by. A slight haze was hanging low in the few shallow canyons we could see from the mess tent and it made for a spectacular view.
    • We left camp and were headed a different direction south towards Ngarimbi Village. Ian and Simon had left early that morning to make it over to the village hoping for another buff. They had struck out, but strangely, we passed them on the road as they headed north back towards camp at around 9:30 or so. A quick chat and off we went again. We had not gone far when Lupo pointed out a buffalo pie on the ground. I am certainly no expert in the judgement of these things, but it at the time it was unremarkable to me and I was curious as to why we stopped. We pulled the truck into the shade of a tree and Patsun, Aisha and Sadee jumped off the truck. Lupo commented that he thought it strange that Simon had come through this area not moments before and had not seen this track. I am not sure how far they went or how long they were gone, but it was long enough for both Lupo and I to nod off on the jump seat of the cruiser. When they returned, the determined that it was a fresh track and we should follow it. This was around 10:15 in the morning. I was preparing myself for a long walk since the previous plan had always been to cut a fresh track at nearly sunrise and follow it hoping that the bull was just up ahead and we could gain on them. At 10:00 AM, I assumed that this track was likely a few hours old and this bull would have put some ground on us. Off we set, Aisha and Patsun working their magic once again. We had not gone far when the Aisha motioned me to close on Lupo. Mear moments later, the buffalo was stand after laying in the grass less than 30 yards away and Patsun was urgently throwing up the sticks. They had seen the bull stand and knew we were in the open, exposed and likely within the bull’s personal space. I was on the sticks and Lupo was once again urgently telling me to “Shoot the bull”. He was standing broadside with his head facing to my left. He had been looking at us and as I acquired him through the scope he turned his head and was beginning to move. I could see his head swinging to create the momentum that is necessary to start a run. He had completed part of the turn and the solid that I fired caught him near the back of the ribs as he was quartering away from me very hard. He folded at the shot. Lupo and I ran up on the bull that was now on his side with his stomach facing us. I knelt down and shot him through the sternum and the game was over. What followed was a sound that I have quickly learned to love deeply. It is the sad and haunting sound of an animal that is fighting with all of its might to hold on and in its last moments almost seems to bellow out as if to say that it wasn’t done yet. Over dinner one of the nights the “death bellow” of buffalo was discussed. I commented that my first buffalo hadn’t bellowed. It was Natasha that proposed her theory that old buffalo sometimes do not bellow. She theorized that very old buffalo are just to tired to bellow and have given up that innate fight that buffalo are so well known for. I thought this was an interesting take and one that I had never heard. This third buffalo was wholly unique bull and a true fighter. No he was not particularly old, no he did not bare scars on his face or battle wounds on his body. There was no evidence of poacher’s snares like we had heard about with both Ian and Kellys bulls. Heck his ears were not even terribly cut or ripped and he wasn’t even that big a bodied bull. Being no buffalo expert, this looked like a very healthy mature bull with a full neck, round shoulders and hips that were full enough to not show his hip bones. With all that being said, I am probably the proudest of being able to take this bull in particular. I was always raised to treat animals with the utmost respect and to cause an animal to suffer unnecessarily and that animals that are in pain need our help. As we began to inspect this bull, we found that he had sustained an incredible injury to his scrotum. We searched the bull for evidence of what might have attacked this healthy bull and could find no bit marks to suggest hyena and no claw marks to hint at a lion attack. We may never know what caused this now very badly infected injury, but Kelly suggested it may have been a honey badger. They have a reputation for defending themselves in this way and it stands as our best guess as to what happened. The injury was easily a week old. The bottom part of his testicles were distended and had pushed themselves several inches outside of the skin of the scrotum which was now very taunt due to the pressure from the infection inside. The area in which we found him was chest deep grass similar to our Johnson grass and some sort of flowering bush that had lost its blooms as the ground had dried. As with everything in Africa, even the flowers have teeth. This flowering bush that had long since dried had razor sharp leaves as part of the outside of its bud. They easily penetrated cloths and I was careful to avoid them even as we took trophy pictures. This poor animal was dragging this obviously painful wound throw this mixture as he tried to find a concealed place to hid. After discussing the injury with Lupo and Sadee, the were surprised that this buffalo had not charged when we bumped it. I asked what would have happened if I hadn’t got off a shot and we had followed. They were both adamant that if we had pursued. At some point, it would have had enough and come for us.
    • As we began to prepare this buffalo for the trophy pictures, Lupo casually commented on the hint of ivory on the tips of his horns. As we looked closer, we noticed a bit of ivory on the front edge of his horns where he had been rubbing. Lupo grabbed a bottle of water and began to wash off the dirt and mud. As he did, more and more ivory colored horn was exposed. As further testament to just how unique this bull was, we found that nearly the entire circumference of this bulls horn just after the boss and extending almost all the way to the tips was ivory in color. This must have been a genetic trait for this particular buffalo because he even had a white nose. I am very curious to find out how rare this condition is in buffalo. I know Lupo was beyond excited at the character of this buff and didn’t believe he had ever seen that before. Obviously I am very happy with character of his horns and very pleased with my shooting, but I am over the moon and happy that I was able to do this bull a kindness and put him out of his misery. I believe when it was all said and done, we had not gone more than about 400 yards from the truck when we found this bull. He really was not traveling much due to the injury.
    • As we were taking pictures of this bull, we heard a shot from further south of us. Lupo got on the radio and found it was Natasha. Matt had collected a zebra and was not far from us. We set up the table and chairs and Lupo invited Natasha and her truck over to eat lunch with us. As luck would have it, a wrong turn was made and the lunch idea was abandoned. Having seen Lupos reaction to the markings on this bulls horns, I was very excited to hear what Natasha, Kelly and their shadow PH Peter, whom I enjoyed very much, thought. Lunch plans changed I walked back over to the table in the shade. I had been checking with Patsun and Aisha to see if they had found any of my bullets as they didn’t seem to pass through. Although none were found, Aisha walked over to show me a bullet hole in the middle of the heart. This made me smile. As I was saying, one of my favorite memories, and I was able to take a picture of it, was seeing Ryan sitting by himself at a table in the middle of the bush sketching in a notebook that Adam had given him. I believe he was working on the shading on either the hartebeest or the giraffe he had started on. A few days earlier in the trip, during one of our lunch breaks, Lupo had given Ryan an impromptu art lesson on shading and he was working hard on using those lessons now.
    • We put away the table and chairs since we were no longer expecting guest and loaded up the now quartered buffalo in the back of the truck. We got back on the road and continued heading south. We had not gone a quarter of a mile when the truck came to another dead stop. There standing at the very edge of the dry river bed that represented the western boundary of the concession stood an ancient waterbuck. I feel like I keep saying this, but this dude was old. His horns were likely never long, but the had secondary growth rings at the bases and he was well broomed down on the tips. He had very little mass to his neck, his front teeth were nearly worn away and his shoulders were lacking any mass and the ridge of his spine was starting to show the highs and lows of the vertebrae. Once again, we had found another old animal to take and I was proud, but overwhelmed at how things were working out. The boys set to work butchering yet another animal in the field. The government official in Ngarimbi had asked Lupo for some meat and this is where the waterbuck was headed. It seems that there was a wedding planned and this old waterbuck was destined to feed those invited.
    • Ryan was still wanting a 3rd or 4th chance at a zebra, depending on how you looked at it. I had to laugh because after we got in the truck with now a buffalo and a waterbuck in the back of this very full cruiser, we came upon a herd of zebra. They stood and stared at the truck as only an animal can when they know that they are not on the menu at the moment. Lupo stopped the truck and there was a very long and pregnant pause as we all sat waited. I was thinking to myself. There is no way we are going after these things. I could almost hear Patsun, Aisha and Amaris thoughts as they were trying to puzzle out how the heck they would fit a zebra in this truck and where they were going to have to sit if we did. I think Lupo shook a fist at the herd as we started moving again. Its uncanny how these animals can sense your intentions sometimes.
    • We dropped off the meet at the government building. Truth be told it was a depressing event when compared to the other trucks experience. I may be imparting my own prejudice here. But I tend to think of even our own government as bloated and distrustful. I am still ignorant about Tanzania, but I do know it’s a socialist country. We pulled up to the government building which was locked up and we waited. Surrounded by mud huts and local people that bore the clothes and bodies of a people that have enough, but not a lot. Whose clothes wore like people that led difficult lives. Amidst all this, a comparatively large women wearing a brilliantly white floral dress came walking across the street to accept the meat. She smiled and seemed nice, but she certainly didn’t seem like the person that would be picking up this meet or doing the cooking. Ian and Adam had a much different and rewarding experience. They told stories of grateful smiling people riding up on their bikes and accepting meat for their families. As I sit here and think about the contrast, I think it must represent much of the dealings that happen in other countries and I suspect having seen one side and heard of the other, I appreciate the experience.
    • As we drove back from Ngarimbi, along the government maintained road to Tapika, we made an attempted stalk on a hartebeest group just off the road. I was on the sticks and applying pressure to the trigger when Lupo determined it to be a cow and the hunt was off. We continued on our trek home and drove through the farm fields near the village of Tapika. As we came out of the valley and into the hills we cross what could only be described as a buffalo highway. The grass was absolutely flattened in a swath between the trees that was easily more than 10 feet wide. It was clear that a very large number of heavy animals had recently been through the area. Lupo guesstimated that it had to be 200 animals to have caused that kind of damage. Several miles later we caught the tail end of another herd as they crossed an open burn over area near camp. I had wanted to see a group like this and they did not disappoint. They where three to four hundred yards away, but very aware of us. They stopped and in what I can only imagine is very typical buffalo fashion, several bulls turned to face us with their heads up and ears to us. I was looking through the binoculars and it was an intimidating site. Lupo said that all the bulls appeared to be young, but I have the image of the one that was closest to me burned in my memory. He the grass was brisket high on his so I could see his full chest and neck as he burned holes in me with his eyes. He was JET black with dark horns that had a deep curl and extended past his ears. He had his nose slightly elevated like he was looking down his nose at us. He neck looked like it was as wide a fridge standing there flexing on us, daring us to do something. It was awesome and gave me pause to think what it would be like to stalk up behind a full herd like that looking for a bull instead of tracking the solitary bull tracks like we had been. It would be a much different experience for sure. Lupo explained that one of the reasons this concession was so great was that the area had numerous year round springs. As the dry season wears on and water in the surrounding park and other concessions evaporate, the herds of buffalo, eland, kudu, elephants and other more migratory animals move into this block. We were just seeing the start of these herds as they moved in at the end of our trip.
 

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  • Day 11 (Saturday July 20th)
    • Saturday was the end our time with Franz and Natasha. We slept in and spent a relaxing morning spending time with them. We recapped the trip with hilarious stories and discussed Natashas and Franz’s travel plans. The had a bush plane scheduled and left camp after a very quickly served lunch. Ian and Adam had woke up and made the mad dash to the village at dawn and Ian shot his third and largest buffalo. I think it stretched the tape at nearly 40 inches and they were still able to get back in time to have lunch.
    • We left camp and drove north into the more dense vegetation and hills. We were on the hunt for either a hartebeest or a sable as we had seen hartebeest in the area and seen sign of sable. We attempted a few stalks on hartebeest but were unsuccessful closing the deal. We did come across a herd of buffalo as they worked their way into the thick brush. We had the wind in our favor and Lupo lead us up into the hills after them. Let me tell you that this was a different experience. We worked our way in behind the herd as they were feeding. At times we were within 20 yards of animals. They make an amazing amount of noise as they move, not only the noise associated with large animals moving through the brush, but also grunts and bellows as they constantly move. We were close enough to smell them and could see shoulders and butts above the brush along with tails and ears as they flicked and moved. I sat there contemplating how we would ever pick a bull out of this mass of moving animals when the wind shifted and the thundering herd stampeded away from us. Lupo estimated the herd to be around 60 animals but Patsun was very confident that it was closer to 100. It was a neat experience.
 
  • Day 12 (Sunday July 21st)
    • We left camp as the sun was coming up and where headed out on mission to get Ryan a zebra. We were 30 minutes out of camp on a very sandy stretch of road with thick trees on either side when Lupo veered off the road and came to a stop. He had noticed a track down the middle of one of the wheel paths and thought it was a bicycle track left by a poacher. Much to our surprise it was a puff adder laying in the middle of the road. I jumped off the truck and with a respectful distance to this short and stubby snake, I took some pictures. She began to move and I switch to video. It was unplanned, but she only traveled a short distance before she crawled under a bush that was surrounded by dead and dry grass. She settled under the bush in a relaxed position and absolutely disappeared from view. I was standing 5 feet from her and as she stopped moving, I lost all reference of where the snake started. She completely blended in to her surroundings. It was spectacular to see.
    • I am not sure if the were blowing smoke, but they said that there is a wives tale in Africa that if you see a venomous snake, you will have good luck that day. This seems to hold true. We left the puff adder and drove back into the burn over area where the roads don’t seem to go. We worked our way around the area, having to hunt and find areas where the cruiser could cross drainages. As we approached what turned out to be a vehicle crossing that hadn’t seen traffic in a long time, Patsun spotted a group of impala and zebra through the trees. We were in a phenomenal spot, the truck was obscured by the heavy trees that were growing along the Korungo in front of us and the wind was in our face. Ryan and Lupo jumped off the truck and walked up to the Korungo, slide down into it and disappeared from sight. I stayed in the truck to minimize the motion and give Ryan more favorable odds. To hear Ryan tell the story, Lupo gracefully stepped down quietly into the sandy bottom. Ryan took the more dramatic approach of jumping down and landing next to Lupo in a thump. Ryan said it was the cannon ball approach and Lupo told him “be quite”. They wound their way through the sandy bottom and slowly walked up the steep slope on the other side. Towards a large tree that they hoped would conceal their approach. As they neared the crest of the rise and the flat ground ahead, they started army crawling forward. Ryan tells the story that he was trying to follow behind Lupo, but he had his binocular harness on his chest and couldn’t get all the way down. They had to unclip the harness and work Ryan out of it before they could move any further. They advanced further and Lupo worked himself to a kneeling position behind the tree. While Lupo was working to get the sticks we had borrowed from Kelly, the herd moved and they had to readjust the sticks. They were now standing as Lupo worked to identify the Stallion of the herd. The stallion was now standing looking directly at Lupo and Ryan. A group of impala that was close to them broke and ran past the stallion and all but the stallion and one mare ran. Lupo ranged the zebra at 180 yards. Ryan squeezed off the shot and buckled at the shot and ran back to the group of wildebeest and zebra. The stallion worked its way into the center of the group and the whole group seemed calm for a moment. While this was going on, I had heard the shot and jumped into the Korungo and made my way up to their shooting position. I had not heard the report of the hit and was concerned that we had another wounded zebra. As I climbed out of the Korungo, I saw the zebra trot and stumble then fall. It seems that the herd of animals eventually smelt the blood or realized something was wrong and began to move out. The stallion was mortally wounded and unable to keep up. The herd was moving off just as I came up to join Ryan and saw the zebra fall. He was an old stallion with incredible markings and the spotted balls we had all heard about. We will be making a rug out of him. Besides the other battle scars across his neck and shoulders, we found 3 parallel scars on his right hip. We obviously cant tell what caused them or how old the wound was, but it seems like the stallion had survived a near miss from a lion or a leopard. I think it makes the hide even that much more interesting.
    • We loaded the zebra into the truck and drove back to camp. We ate lunch and caught a quick nap. When we got back into the truck, the zebra that once had a hide on it was now naked and hide less. Its amazing how fast the skinners can work. Lupo had plans for the meat and a lion bait that we needed to refresh. We had heard a lion calling nearby camp for most of the trip. I tried to record him calling many times, but never could quite get it right. His tracks had followed one of the dirt roads and had passed several of the leopard baits we had hung. Simon thought this was a sign of not only his age, but also his wariness of baits hung in trees. Lupo had a hind leg from the hippo tied to the base of a tree at this advice. The lion had finally started working on the bait. We arrived to an absolutely rotten hippo leg. The smell of the melting hippo was something that cannot be described. Lupo instructed Patsun to untie the leg and drag it a few feet away and tie it to another tree. How this man accomplished this without vomiting is beyond me. We placed the freshly skinned zebra in its place and began working to set a blind for this Lion. When it was set, Lupo and I climbed in prepared to sweat and the truck left. We sat for nearly 3 hours, well into the night. Nothing came to the bait and Lupo began to think that the lion had come to the hippo leg and ate, but that it quickly rotted past the point that the lion would eat it and left. True to the theory, the lion took a few bites from the hanging bait only a few feet above the hippo and left.
    • Ryan once again sat in the truck with the boys. He was rewarded with seeing a group of bushpigs come through and was absolutely fired up about getting to shoot one. I never did see bush pigs on this trip.
 

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  • Day 13 (Monday July 22nd)
    • Lupo and I woke up very early and made a sit in the lion bait. We had hoped that he would return to the fresh meat, but he did not. We watched 2 hyena work on the bait for a few moments in the full moonlight, but they buggered off before the sun started to rise.
    • With the lion having moved one, this day we had Matt riding with us. He had spent the first 10 days of the hunt with his uncle. He had endured constant ridicule about not shooting a buffalo and today was going to be the day we connected. We started a bit late since we had made a sit in the morning, but Matt and Ryan got to sleep in as a result. We were driving trying to cut a buff track and bumped a VERY large eland bull and cow. We adjusted plans and made an stalk. We were on the track for nearly 2 hours before they turned and started cutting the wind it seems they had caught onto us. It was a great stalk and we had some pretty amazing moments along the way. We watched a mother warthog and a youngster for a moment. The young warthog was clueless to our presence and walked to within 15 yards of our group as we stood silently, all of us smiling as we waited for the inevitable moment when it realized we were there and the incredulous run in the other direction.
    • We abandoned the track and headed back to the truck. We were on the road headed to the one of the ridges that the buffalo were crossing from field to bedding area when the truck came to an immediate stop. everyone but the three white guys from America started pointing and exclaiming “Reedbuck…Reedbuck”. We jumped off the truck and since I was the fastest, I fell in behind Lupo. The sticks went up and I took a 200 yard shot on this whitetail sized animal. It dropped at the shot. There was a second ram in this group of three and Lupo motioned excitedly for Matt to hurry up to the sticks. The second ram stopped at almost 215 yards and Matt put a perfect shot through the lungs. The ram seemed to not realize it was hit. It stiffened and slowly walked forward 20 yards before dumping over its front feet dead. We celebrated for a quick moment and then began to walk over to my reedbuck. It happened in slow motion. Patsun was the first to the animal. He was laying almost as if sleeping with his head tucked unnaturally almost under his left armpit. As I walked up behind Patsun, I saw one eye wide open and as Patsun was inches away reaching for a horn, the thing sprung up and ran as if unharmed. I took a running shot as it left but did not connect. We walked over to Matts and found a stone dead animal. We took trophy pictures and then started the hunt for my wounded reedbuck. We found good blood and started the track. We bumped it once and a flurry of shots rang out from both myself and Lupo. Neither of us connected. Another 300 yards of tracking and we found it down and clearly in great distress. My follow up shot passed just behind both ears and I was lucky to not destroy the skull that anchors the horns. My first shot had missed the mark and clipped the left side of his neck. I believe it must have nicked an artery as he was bleeding, but not heavily. It would have been a fatal shot, but death was going to come slowly.
    • It was just past 10 AM and we were back on the hunt for buffalo. We decided to run to Ngarimbi and see if we could duplicate the success I had found. Along the way as we approached the village we saw a monster warthog. The kind of warthog that needs no binoculars to judge even at a distance. Ryan was on the sticks with my .300WM and he made an amazing shot. The warthog spun in a few circles and ran with its head held high. For a moment, many of us were afraid it was a gut shot based upon the reaction of the animal. We were quickly relieved to find bright pink lung blood and pieces of lung material. The blood trail was easy to follow and the resilient animal still ran 150 yards or so before expiring. We nick named the warthog “Trump” because of the heavy orange mane that naturally fell in comb over fashion to the left.
    • We loaded up this pig and headed on through the village to the area where I had shot my buff. We drove south of the road this time towards the large floodplain. We were not far off the road when we saw only the second Kudu bull we had seen on this trip. Matt took the shot and we were all off at a run to follow. A follow up shot was needed, but the old bull was in the salt. As daylight faded, we drove the area still looking for a buffalo for Matt, but it was not destined to happen that day.
 

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  • Day 14 (Tuesday July 23rd)
    • This was the last day for hunting. Really it was the last morning. Ryan elected to sleep in while Matt and I woke up early to run to the ridge in hopes of a last day buffalo. We started walking the roadway right as the sun was coming up. We walked along a road separated on either side by fallow crops checking for sign. As we walked, Tick birds passed overhead looking for a host for them to spend the day with. I was unsure of the significance of these birds and the fact that they were flying over, but the team was glued to them as the flew over head. I thought it was interesting, but nothing seemed to come of it. We were walking into a big bend in the road when a group of 2-4 tick birds passed overhead. They seem to be on a similar path the others had been on and I thought they might fly out of sight. All at once without a moments noticed, the lot of them dove straight down and lit on something less than 100 yards away. The entire team went into full fledge alert. Binos came up and everyone was at attention. It was a very large group of eland. Matt was on the sticks and we scrambled up to get into position. There did not seem to be a bull in this group, but we were within 20 yards of 20-30 eland that had no idea we were there. We were close enough to hear the ankle clicking so many talk about. It was an amazing experience.
    • We called the truck and continued on. We had only gone 20 minutes and were headed into much more rugged terrain that we had not crossed before when we cut a very fresh buff track. Off the truck and into the bush we went. This was the most impressive of tracking jobs that we had seen yet. we didn’t travel far, but the brush and grass were incredibly thick and the tracking was slow. We passed a spring and could see where he had drank, we passed an area where it was clear that he had laid down during the early morning. Then we crossed through a heavily wooded Korungo with a trickle of water in the bottom and very steep slippery slopes in and out. Care was taken to make sure we could all get through and there at the bottom of this deep narrow drainage was very fresh elephant tracks. I was floored that such a large animal would pass through this area. I swear its stomach had to be touching the sloping walls as it had walked up this drainage. We worked out way through the drainage and as we came up the other side, the heat of the day betrayed us and the wind swirled. Less than 50 yards away, the buffalo had been laying down and it winded us. I never actually saw it, but it didn’t stick around. We tracked it to where it had been bedded and huddled up. It was nearly 12 and we had to pack and a flight to catch out of there at 3.
    • We got back to camp and packed up. Ryan and I gave out torches, headlamps and clothes to our crew. I gave Patsun my boots because I know he would get more use of them. All of the medication I took went to Lupo.
    • We ate our last meal together and then drove to the park near Ngarimbi and jumped on a Cessna 208 to start our trip back to Dar and eventually home.
 

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The ride home was uncomfortable but uneventful. I very much appreciate you guys reading my recap and any thoughts or questions are greatly appreciated.
 
What an adventure!! Congrats on the animals taken. An experience neither of you will forget. The hippo simply amazes me. I cannot imagine being up close to one. What an animal. Great pics!
 
What an adventure!! Congrats on the animals taken. An experience neither of you will forget. The hippo simply amazes me. I cannot imagine being up close to one. What an animal. Great pics!
I have no idea how to judge a hippo as I had never seen a wild one before seeing this pod. Several of the PHS on this safari couldn't remember seeing a bigger bodied hippo in person. I don't know that I have paid much attention to hippo trophies before now, but I don't recall seeing one as scarred and beaten as this one was. He must have had a heck of a life until he won his own pod.
 
Great report...did you see many elephants other than the big herd with the 70 lb bull?
Unfortunately I never saw any elephants other than a very young calf running for its life through the headlights of the truck. We saw a bunch of sign and several times cut tracks of extremely fresh tracks. fresh enough that the sand on the foot print was still standing in clean edges along the "finger prints". i wish I had a chance to see a group myself.
 
Excellent write up and truly enjoyed your story telling style. Bonus points for taking your son along as I am sure it's a memory he will never forget. Congratulations on all trophies taken!

HH
 
A great hunt, specially when shared with your son, congrats :D Cheers:
 

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