Stock Forend Separated During Shipping So, Slightly Bummed

[rookhawk]

Rookhawk, I seldom disagree with you but in this case I am. The "fix" proposed by Von Gruff is by far the better option. As many or most of you know Von Gruff makes stocks as well as knives. I'd listen to him.

His recommendation is no better, and requires a refinish of a hand rubbed oil stock. The cost to do that is roughly half the price the buyer paid for the whole rifle. Sooner buy a replacement bishop stock than to go to the effort to deal with refinish.

Its not that it isn't a great repair idea, its a repair idea that causes refinishing which is a non-starter.

 

[Shootist43]

Rookhawk, what part of Von Gruff's recommendation requires a stock refinish? I didn't see a need to do that. Did I miss something? Making a template is straight forward, so drilling holes for the pins that will line up wont be an issue. Gluing the pins into one side, allowing them to dry, followed by a dry fit and judiciously adjusting any holes as necessary then glue the for end to the stock. A little tape on the visible "mating" edges of both pieces should allow any excess glue to be wiped off before "clamping" the two pieces together per his suggestion.

 

[Red Leg]

Were it mine, I wouldn't drill any holes. I would repair just as @rookhawk suggests. Untouched it will be a perfect match and Gorilla Glue will hold it far more securely than the original bonding agent.

 

[rookhawk]

Rookhawk, what part of Von Gruff's recommendation requires a stock refinish? I didn't see a need to do that. Did I miss something? Making a template is straight forward, so drilling holes for the pins that will line up wont be an issue. Gluing the pins into one side, allowing them to dry, followed by a dry fit and judiciously adjusting any holes as necessary then glue the for end to the stock. A little tape on the visible "mating" edges of both pieces should allow any excess glue to be wiped off before "clamping" the two pieces together per his suggestion.

The cleanup of an epoxy glue requires acetone. That will screw up a hand rubbed oil finish. I know its a hand rubbed oil finish because i tested it and topped it off with some additional slacum and rotten stone, then sealed it for water resistance with renaissance wax. So I'm certain there is a chance of harming the finish because I know what the finish is. Tightbond or Gorilla Glue is water soluble for clean up without a solvent.

 

[fourfive8]

The only thing that will give 100% secure attachment at this point is to use two dowel pins and high quality epoxy. Plus there is no way to feather or match sand the seam between the parts with something like Gorilla glue after it dries any easier than if it were epoxy. If it is a hand rubbed yadayada oil or varnish, it is not very durable any way. You can test whatever clean-up solvent you want to use on a small part inside the barrel channel. If acetone dissolves the finish then try denatured alcohol. Alcohol will also cut epoxy and can be used for cleanup. If you just glue the separated parts back together think about the joint attaching the other part of the stock to the back side of the line spacer material... probably the same glue... probably just as weak. But hey use whatever DIY process makes the owner comfortable or just pay a professional stock repairer..

 

[Wyatt Smith]

If it was mine, and I was going to repair it, I think I would glue it as rookhawk suggested. If I thought I needed a stronger joint, I would use a small chisel or a gouge to carve a groove into the barrel channel. Then lay in a steel rod and epoxy it in. Then I would sand out the epoxy to accommodate the barrel.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

I should add that is how I would do it. I know my limitations when it comes to woodwork. Could a pro cut a couple of grooves in it for a biscuit or something similar? You know making use of the barrel channel.

 

[bruce moulds]

the fact that there is a spacer in it could present the situation that the other side of the spacer could let go in the future.
if there is any fault in the situation, it is with the original stock maker for not fitting the forend properly in the first place, and not using the best glue.
the picture looks like the barrel needs floating as well, and this could be dome at the same time as the repair.
bruce.

 

[rookhawk]

Guys, I’m going to excuse myself from this thread now.

I was the seller. It was perfect when I sent it. It was not perfect when the buyer received it from the FFL. I’ve made several options to make it right to the buyer including me fixing it or having me pay to have a gunsmith I recommended near the seller fix it, or to advise how he can fix it for a cost of $14 and 30 mins labor himself that will net great results.

The original stocker used a simple glue on the marquetry and it lasted 56 years before failing. I’m providing a repair recommendation that matches the original method of attachment but uses modern superior adhesives. It was already glass bedded full length of the barrel channel (didn’t know that, huh?) so the jarring of the tip was enough to break acriglass, not just to let hide glue let go. Will you also re-glass bed the barrel after these repairs? Redo the oil finish and slacum? Sand the whole stock when the dowels take the tip out of alignment by a few thousandths and it looks amateur?

I’m familiar with the quality and condition of the gunstock and how these repairs would actually pan out. But your “friendly suggestions” with no skin in the game eating a beautiful finish is not helpful. Some of you castigating the finish, a finish that was excellent and took me a month to “top off” with slacum ”The Purdey Way” and then sealed with the same wax the Tower of London uses exclusively is insulting to me and diminishes the gun.