Stock/barrel contact matter?

[Axle2010]

Hey guys on my new Ruger African 416 the barrel is free floated all the way to the action but there is contact at the very front left side where the tip is. The barrel is huge looks like a stovepipe, to a first time big bore owner anyway, so does this pressure matter enough to effect accuracy on this rifle? I know it would in my smaller calibers. Thanks

 

[Hogpatrol]

If it's designed to have a pressure point, remove it at your own risk. BTDT.

 

[Axle2010]

If it's designed to have a pressure point, remove it at your own risk. BTDT.

No is not like that I know Weatherby has a pressure point towards the front of the forend but this is from the left side.

 

[RR 314]

No is not like that I know Weatherby has a pressure point towards the front of the forend but this is from the left side.

As if the inletting is a bit off or the stock is warped? If so, I would contact Ruger and ask them/have it addressed. Likely would have no more than a very minimal, if any, impact on accuracy on a big bore. However, if new from Ruger, I would have it addressed.

 

[62flint]

Couple things.
1, I have never owned a ruger rifle.
2, Some actions can sit a bit off in the stock allowing one side of the barrel to contact the channel. Check bedding, action screws etc.
3. Depending on the shock it could be easy to just sand the stock out and refinish /oil the barrel channel if its wood.
4. Does it shoot ok for you? if so dont worry about it.
5 pictures would really help

 

[Hogpatrol]

No is not like that I know Weatherby has a pressure point towards the front of the forend but this is from the left side.

Sand it, oil or polyurethane it and shoot it.

 

[Joker12]

If it were mine I would shoot it a bit before doing anything else. The proof is in the shooting.

 

[Cajun Hunter]

Hey guys on my new Ruger African 416 the barrel is free floated all the way to the action but there is contact at the very front left side where the tip is. The barrel is huge looks like a stovepipe, to a first time big bore owner anyway, so does this pressure matter enough to effect accuracy on this rifle? I know it would in my smaller calibers. Thanks

Some Rugers, older ones especially will have a contact point up front. But it should provide the same pressure on each side. Otherwise accuracy will suffer.

 

[Ridge Runner]

If it were mine I would shoot it a bit before doing anything else. The proof is in the shooting.

+1on this.

First shoot it. Make any scope/ sight adjustments to zero your rifle. Then analyze your target results.

If all is good then don't worry about the stock having any impact on your accuracy.

If on the other hand you can't seem to group your shots then:

1) chronograph your ammo and note your velocities. Bullet manufacturer, Bullet weight, Bullet type, and your range(s)/ distance(s) fired.

2) using factory ammo have it readily at hand
1) New rifle, contact the manufacturer and talk with a tech about your problem(s

3) New rifle contact the manufacturer, talk with Tech addressing your problem(s).

Or

3a) Purchased Used rifle follow 3 above. Should the manufacturer be unable to assist; mark the area(s) where the barrel and stock come into contact, remove the barrel, action, etc, from the stock and LIGHTLY sand the area(s) with 100 grit sandpaper, CONTINUOUSLY checking the barrel to stock fit until the wood and barrel no longer touch...using a piece of paper or dollar bill as a gauge to determine no barrel to metal contact.

You Do Not want to over sand the area(s). It's Not Necessary.

Reseal the wood, stain, polyurethane and reassemble.

5) Range time to check your rifle's accuracy and your fix.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT BE AGGRESSIVE with your sanding, ie Do Not use power tools or any aggressive filing, sandpaper other the 100 grit. Slow and easy with repeated checks.

NOTE: Since I have not seen or physically looked at your rifle and the problem you have, I can only go by your description in which case it seems you are suggesting you have a minor situation of wood to barrel contact. Therefore I have offered my advice to remedy your minor problem.

Should your stock be severely warped or you have a major amount of wood to barrel contact I strongly recommend you seek a gunsmith in your area for them to physically look at your problem and offer their opinions on repairing or replacing your stock.

 

[cajunchefray]

As if the inletting is a bit off or the stock is warped? If so, I would contact Ruger and ask them/have it addressed. Likely would have no more than a very minimal, if any, impact on accuracy on a big bore. However, if new from Ruger, I would have it addressed.

I second this. Have Ruger make it right. I still like Ruger firearms, but their QA/QC is lacking lately. I have a Number One.35 Whelen that I have to ship back for the second time. First the safety locked up the trigger, they fixed, now 40 rounds later, I get light primer strikes.
They are shipping guns out the door as fast as they can. Not the same company when Bill. Ruger was alive.
It will cost you some effort, but for a big bore rifle, it needs to be without functional issues.

 

[mikesheree]

Shoot it and see. Most folks aren shooting a .416 more than 100 yards max. It’s not a PG gun really.

 

[Axle2010]

Ok first 2 actual groups I've shot with the Ruger; please don't judge remember this is my first time shooting a big bore, brand new rifle and off sticks not a bench. I mounted an old Leupo 1-4 and got close enough to center to try a couple groups. You can tell the second group is half the size of the first and I moved up and over a few clicks between groups. I'm not terribly unhappy with the groups, DGXS 400's btw, and at this range so far it doesn't look like the forend contact is hurting anything.

 

[Ridge Runner]

At what distance(s)?

Being your first big bore and your first shots with a big bore, you should first get use to it, then start fine tuning your scope to close your groups.

I would recommend starting at 50 yards:
1) to build yourself confidence with the rifle
2) to build your familiarity with the rifle
3) to learn the ballistics of your rifle

After several trips with much practice and you have accomplished tasks 1 and 2 above move to 75 yards or 100 yards. Begin the process again.

Now if you so choose drop bullet weight and proceed in 50 yard increments to 200 and 300 yards repeating the previous steps as you increase to each new distance.

 

[Axle2010]

At what distance(s)?

Being your first big bore and your first shots with a big bore, you should first get use to it, then start fine tuning your scope to close your groups.

I would recommend starting at 50 yards:
1) to build yourself confidence with the rifle
2) to build your familiarity with the rifle
3) to learn the ballistics of your rifle

After several trips with much practice and you have accomplished tasks 1 and 2 above move to 75 yards or 100 yards. Begin the process again.

Now if you so choose drop bullet weight and proceed in 50 yard increments to 200 and 300 yards repeating the previous steps as you increase to each new distance.

I did start at 50 partly because the older fairly cheap scope is actually a little blurry. I don't think I could even make out the center dot from 100 with it. Today finished off my first box and I have 2 more ordered so now I have to find l a set of 416 dies and some bullets. I'd like to try a couples of lightweights since we don't have many buffalo in south Georgia lol.

 

[cajunchefray]

I did start at 50 partly because the older fairly cheap scope is actually a little blurry. I don't think I could even make out the center dot from 100 with it. Today finished off my first box and I have 2 more ordered so now I have to find l a set of 416 dies and some bullets. I'd like to try a couples of lightweights since we don't have many buffalo in south Georgia lol.

I suggest starting at 50 yards, from a Standing Rest( sticks takes a lot of practice ), You should not be crouched down on the rifle, or not sure that you are steady.

A standing rest, such as gunmakers use, is stable, allows a natural recoil movement, and hurts a lot less then shooting from the bench.

Look up Holland and Holland, standing rests, for pictures online. They use these for regulating double rifles. Can be built from proper lumber. I made mine from 2x4 and 4x4 lumber. It’s like a small section of solid wooden fence, at proper height.

Now you have a steady rest, and less pounding from recoil, minimizing shooter error. Only shoot a few rounds, maybe 10 to 12. Then stop shooting, take a break.

Then you can evaluate the rifle , accuracy for a given load.
You want to shoot the rifle in a natural body position, roll with the recoil, and keep a steady sight picture and body posture.

Since this is your first big bore understand it takes a lot of practice. And more practice.

Only then, when you are getting consistent groups, good or bad, evaluate the results.

I would not begin modifying the rifle or reloading , until I have determined the accuracy of the rifle with factory loads first.

 

[Nhoro]

The second group looks to be a little over an inch. Nothing wrong with that. Try and keep ttack of your shots to see if they walk across the target as the barrel heats up. The danger of a stock touching the barrel is that you dont know if that stock is going to absorb humidity and warp further. You barrel looks like it was free floated and the stock has then warped. That said, CZ ships their rifles with contact at the very edge of the stock and they generally shoot well. All my rifles are free floated with no contact but i have an old brno .22 that shoot ok until I freefloated the barrel. It started at 1 inch groups with open sights so i bought it, fitted a scope and free floated the barrel- 2-3 inch gtoups. I glass bedded it and now have 1.5 inch groups. Still working on that rifle but i may have to put a little barrel contact back into the rifle.