All good things must come to an end! Thanks everyone for your patience and the responses.
June 11 – Day 25
No hunting today. We wake up later than usual, and after a nice breakfast, head in to Otjiwarongo, the nearest town of any size (about 70,000 people). It’s nice enough place, clean and tidy, and we’re here to visit (inspect?) the local taxidermist. And get some cigarettes for Gottfried. I’m not a big fan of smoking, but I can’t watch him smoke whatever it is he smokes wrapped in newsprint for another day.
The taxidermist shop is impressive, with a 72-inch (no kidding) kudu in the office. We meet with the owner, and get a high degree of comfort around their processes, so overall, we’re happy with the visit. Then off to pick up some groceries for camp, and the cigarettes I need for Gottfried. With all of that done, we head back to camp, having spent a pleasant morning.
The afternoon is spent looking for a Hartmann zebra for Peter, but we have no luck. They apparently keep to the mountains, but we’ve seen Burchell’s up there, so I have no doubt that they interbreed. Interesting, at least to me, is that it’s against the law in South Africa to keep the two in the same area, much the same as the rules around blesbok and bontebok. We’ll try it again in the morning when they might come out to get some sun.
June 12 – Day 26
This is the last day of our hunt, and we’ve gotten pretty much everything we wanted in Namibia, so the zebra is really icing on the cake. Nevertheless, we all enjoy icing. So we were off early morning to see if we could finish our hunt on a high note.
We drive over to the base of the mountains. The road tends to run about 200 – 300 yards from the base of the mountains, sometimes going in as close as 100 yards. The area between us the road and the mountains is entirely made up of high thorn bushes which, while not as dense as the area where we found the dik dik, are still dense enough to make you think twice about walking through.
After a good half hour of slow driving, we spot zebra, but we all say at about the same time “Burchall’s”. A small herd of about 6, and they are high on the mountainside. If this is indeed where the Hartmann are, there can be no doubt that interbreeding is occurring.
We keep looking and another half hour passes. It’s now starting to warm up a bit. At one point, Peter, who seems to be looking backwards, says he’s spotted two zebra. We stop the truck since none of us can see them, and he points one of them out. “Good eyes,” I say – we range these at about 650 yards, high on a steep mountainside. If you look away for a second, it takes you some time to reacquire them when you look back. They seem to be on a slow amble towards our left, in front of the vehicle. If they’ve seen us, they’re far enough away that they don’t mind our presence.
These are clearly Hartmann, and Theo says we should try for one of them. How is an interesting question. As Theo is pondering this, they come to a stop, one in front of the other, on the mountainside, well in the sun. They are staring straight ahead, and again, are about 650 yards. The truck has not moved in a bit, so we don’t seem to be attracting their attention.
Theo decides to walk back the way we came, and then to go through the thorns (where it’s only about 100 yards), and then climb the mountain to try to get approximately even with them. He thinks they can do that without coming out of the trees, and likely could get as close as 200 yards before they’d have to expose themselves.
So Theo, Peter and Hannes get ready, and with the sticks in tow, they head out.
After a good half hour, we are surprised we can’t see them anywhere on the mountain with the binos. After an hour, we’re wondering where they’ve gone, because we have the whole mountain in front of us, and we still can’t see them. Even Gottfried is a bit surprised. Having said that, I am also surprised that in the entire time, neither zebra has budged from his (or her – bit too far to tell) position. They move their head from time to time, but otherwise are completely still. If I hadn’t located them just below a peculiar rock formation that I can find instantly, I’d have a hard time seeing them without movement, even though I know where they are.
After an hour and half, I’m looking at them through the binos, and saying to Dean, something funny must be going on, and almost at that instant, a shot rings out, and the zebra on the right falls over, and begins to tumble down the mountain. His descent is stopped by a tree he runs into. I keep watching but no movement. This thing is dead. A great shot, though from the sound, it seemed to have come from somewhere in front of us, lower down on the mountain, which seems odd.
Gottfried has picked up his binos, and is looking at the dead zebra. He puts down the binos, shakes his head, and says, “beeg problem.” I assume, correctly, that he means the recovery. And while that isn’t really my issue, getting up there to where the zebra is, is my issue, so off we go, through the thick thorn brush.
I was actually in reasonable shape for this hunt, but climbing this steep, rocky, mountainside in high heat has me puffing pretty quickly. Some parts of the slope are so steep you look for something to hold on to, but everything has thorns, so that’s not a plan.
About half way up the slope, without having seen Peter or Theo yet, we hear another shot ring out. This time, it sounds quite close, and I’m not sure whoever is shooting can see us, so I’m not thrilled. We now make some noise, which they can hopefully hear, but no more shots, so we continue up the mountain.
When we reach the zebra, I catch my breath, and listen to Peter explain the hunt. They had gone to our right, and intended to climb the mountain, but the wind shifted once they got out of the thorn trees, and they decided that wouldn’t work. So they paralleled the base of the mountain, until they essentially came back to where we were, more or less, and then began to try getting some height so that they could see the zebra. Once they spotted the zebra, they worked slowly to cut the distance for the shot, until they go to about 200 yards. At that point, Peter tried various positions, with sticks, and without sticks, to try to get a comfortable rest. He ended up using a tree branch, and taking a shot at a pretty extreme upward angle. Fortunately, Theo had talked him through the angles, since he never taken a shot like this before. He eventually took the shot, which fortunately we had seen.
A bit of an aside here – Peter’s wound from the first “scoping” was just about healed, although he had a bit of a scar there. Well, apparently the upward angle caused him to hold the rifle a bit funny, and guess what – another half moon! His mother is going to kill me . . .
I asked what the second shot was about, and it seems that some baboons had been watching them climb the mountain after the zebra was shot. Theo had seen us, so knew we were beneath them, while the baboons were to our right, so Peter took a shot. Once we were finished with the zebra, Peter had to go find the baboon he’d killed!
The zebra/baboon combo effectively wrapped up Peter’s hunt. I, on the other hand, had been asked to cull two blue wildebeest for meat. Of course, I really have no choice but to help out; these people have been so nice!
So we leave a group of workers to try to get the zebra off the mountain, we find the baboon, and we're off. Before long we come across a small herd of wildebeest. It was interesting to me that looking for old animals with lousy horns is just as difficult as finding animals with great horns. Most are in the middle between trophy and non-trophy, but we want clear non-trophy. I have a few solids left and the .416 is on the truck, so we use that to reduce damage to the meat.
We eventually find what we’re looking for, and a quick shot from the vehicle and the animal is down. One more to go. We load the first up and we’re off again. Within about 15 minutes we find a new group of wildebeest, and Theo picks one out. I shoot quickly – too quickly for Hannes apparently, but it’s a cull, so no harm done. Another dead on the spot. I admit to a bit of surprise that a .416 solid would have that effect, but it clearly does, or maybe it’s just my brilliant shooting. On second thought . . .
We load this one up too, so now it’s getting a bit crowded in the back of the truck, but this is they kind of crowd I’m happy to hang around with.
And so ends our hunt, at about 1 pm on the last day in Namibia. We have the rest of the day to get ready to go, and then we’re off to Windhoek at about 5.30 am the next day, to catch our 10.30 flight to Jo’burg.
To sum up, in the past 26 days, we’ve hunted:
Northern Cape (RSA): Wintershoek Safaris
A great operation, and great people. I think John Tinley is one of the best PHs I’ve had, and that I’ve seen. Plus we seem to get along, which is a bit weird, but there you are. Main camp is very comfortable – luxurious, many would say, and the food is first rate. Plenty of game, and a big area. High fenced. As an aside, over 30 rhino on the property.
Kwa-Zulu Natal (RSA) Mkuze National Park
A tented camp in a wild area, with the big five and both black and white rhinos. Camp is very comfortable, but could use mosquito nets on the beds. Food is good, but Wintershoek may have spoiled us. Lots of game, but what you can shoot is limited. Having said that, if nyala and red duiker are on your list, this is the place.
Natal Midlands (RSA) Beverley (Dargle Valley)
A very comfortable camp (really a bed & breakfast) in the middle of a beautiful cattle ranching area. Maybe the most beautiful part of South Africa that I’ve seen. Hunting is on ranches in the area, and some private game reserves, so takes some driving to get to hunting areas, but fairly reasonable distances by and large.
Namibia Ozondjahe Safaris
Ozondjahe is a huge property in mid- to northern Namibia. Accommodations are in modern bungalows, with meals in a lovely lapa or in the main house if it’s too cold. Meals are almost entirely game, and very well prepared and presented. Staff are generally first rate, with Johanna, our waitress, one of the most able and pleasant people I have come across. The property is game rich, and hunting can really be what you want to make of it – easy or hard. Our PH, Theo, worked his butt off to get us the animals we wanted, and when (minor) issues arose, he quickly went to bat. He doesn’t give up. I’d highly recommend him if you were going here, and I highly recommend Ozondjahe.
And after 27 days of hunting, one last question remained: What am I going to do with all of these single socks?
Full moon over Ozondjahe.