SOUTH AFRICA: MOZAMBIQUE: Off To Southern Africa With KMG & TMS & PPS

[BRICKBURN]

Not everyone gets to ride up front... Hence the copilot glasses to keep some of the crap out of your eyes.

Martin, chilling in the back, while you can. Note the Copilots position in the Bakkie.

So, why would someone opt to be in the rear of the Bakkie???
Some of the road was tar, BUT, the majority was NOT...
There was also a large part of the roadway under construction and this lovely chalk powder made its way into everything, in the vehicle following. (Where I was)
For those who have been in a snow blizzard, think white out and complete inability to see the road at times.
This picture is of the light dust when I had enough guts to pull the camera out.

I did not cotton on to the need to follow so close initially. The concern was about being left to negotiate the bane of the trip alone. Not a fun experience for the driver.

When I got to camp I swore "I would not do that again". Following in the dust was not at all pleasant. Everyone knew and adjusted behaviour accordingly from that point onward.


We made stops along the way, dodged traffic, large trucks and a Motor bike that two guys did a lovely pirouette off of in front of us. Imagine two guys and a bike emerging out of the billowing dust. Swerving to ensure you don't hit them and then making sure you are not taking anyone else out that is in the dust on the other side. It's an adventure.

Whistle stop. Cold Manica and a Mobile tower. Afternoon now so I can text home that I am alive.

Now the funniest thing I saw was the fact that there was a electronic point of payment at this little place. Note stock levels.

The local wildlife was already after Kurt.

A little while later we had another stop at a Tomb of a local celeb. It's just like Hollywood out here.

The translation:
"queen who reigned between the second half of the nineteenth century and the first half of the twentieth century that title acquired the first larval Mataca (che Nyambi) thanks to its decisive role in the liberation of slaves, that allowed grangear admiration in the Freed slaves Village."

So, she is not a slave trader but a slave liberator. Apparently. Simon was wondering about the real story behind the tomb.
It is also a very convenient place to obtain Nicotine uptake and water various wild plants on the road side.

 

[BRICKBURN]

Soon we left the tar and took to the short cuts in earnest.

I was asked to pull the side mirrors in. Why I wonder. The trees and grass are so close they will destroy the mirrors if they are not brought in. Learned from experience by the Copilot.

Going down these roads is close to being in a washing machine on the bounce and spin cycle while heading through a standing corn field. The cover is against the road. Call it a two track.
Villages appear out of nowhere, along with bicycles and pedestrians making the game lots of fun.

Vera was quite concerned about hitting these folks as we passed so she would "hoot" the hooter and nearly invariably the cyclist would turn to try and see what the hooting was about and veer in front of you. Scary stuff.

For entertainment I started a little gambling pool. I was on the would not swerve side and Vera on the other. The game ended at sunset with me being up 7 to 1. The folks in the rural areas are much smarter than the folks in town. Take note.


This is what all the fuss is about. A Bridge, there are no signs and maintenance is not what you would call up to date.
Grader blades tacked to the I-beams with interesting gaps. It is imperative the tires go in the right place.

We made it across with out incident. Does not look like much in this image. I was not getting out. This is a Tsetse ambush site. A very rude introduction to this biting bug that has saved many a wild place for hunting.

For those of you in the North of the world, think of these things as Horse flies on steroids that a good slap does not kill. You have to roll them under your palm and grab them with your fingers and crush them with your nails. No bloody wonder they have survived all attempts to eradicate them. They are the real ambush predator of the bushveld up here. They rule.

The rest of the trip into camp 1.5 hours more. "Just a bit further" repeated apologetically with a reassuring tone.
Sadly when I have a GPS I know exactly how far the drive will be.
Unfortunately, a tired frustrated hunter makes a PH nervous.
This is a long trip and it was really just the dust that was too much for me that day.

In the dark we made our way past small villages with fires burning in the midst of the crops trying to dissuade Elephants from pillaging. Part of the deal on the concession is to help the villages out if the Elephants become an issue. PAC is part of the job description.

Finally, a cheery "We're here" when we hit camp. The camp was dark and Vera started scrambling to get things prepared.
Simon was on an egg shopping detour to Meterica.

I was shown to tent #1.

This is not town with tenured staff and advance planning was not on the staff agenda. Sadly, the workers need the camp manager present to make sure things are done.
This is a wild place and I really did not expect a 5star welcome. I would have just loved a shower right then.

From this point onward, if you asked for it and it was available you had it in short order.


My first look at my tent

I was very happy to be out of the dust and to get to sleep. We would be up at 0600 the next day to go after some Sable and whatever else managed to jump in front of us.

 

[bluey]

love that bar maid with the trainee on her hip ......

 

[BRICKBURN]

love that bar maid with the trainee on her hip ......

The trainee bellied up to his own bar shortly thereafter. See that happen in North America.

 

[siml]

Only one cure for a real dusty road trip..

 

[BRICKBURN]

Only one cure for a real dusty road trip..

 

[siml]

Amen!!!

 

[BRICKBURN]

For got this picture of the Chicken man.
KFC, Mozambique style

Some of the local terrain

 

[ROCKET]

Nao tein nada melhor que uma cerveija bem gellata meu amigo.....!!!!!

I would like to try one of those Manica......!!!!
Does all the population in Moz portuguese fluent....??
I learn my Portuguese in Brazil after 10 years of good diveing and spear fishing.......nice language......!!!!

 

[siml]

Rocket, 100% correct, nothing like a cold beer.

Portuguese is the official language of Mozambique, everyone speaks it.

 

[Royal27]

Rocket, 100% correct, nothing like a cold beer.

Portuguese is the official language of Mozambique, everyone speaks it.

Great.... now @ROCKET is ahead of me for the apprentice position, just because he speaks the language, and is already in the business, and is generally more qualified....

 

[BRICKBURN]

The first morning view wake up from the tent.

Step out and look up and this is the morning view.

Rusks and Coffee and we are off.

One thing I have learned and relearned in Africa is that your eyes have to become accustomed to the local fauna and flora before you can see what is actually going.

Can you see the Sable in this picture?

Don't feel bad if you can't. It took me two days before I was actually seeing them and not having them pointed out to me or having them running for their lives before I could pick up on them in the cover.

We stopped at some local water

Not the large spoor in the foreground. Several Duiker and probably Grysbok or Suni spoor inside it.

It did not dawn on me what this dog track would be. But, it was a dog track. Note the Francolin track and the other small four toed critter heading south. Nothing like mud at a water hole to let you know who is in the neighbourhood.

After I left it became quite apparent that this track belonged to one of a group of very efficient machines running around the Coutada. Wild Dogs.

I brought my Bow along on the hopes to be able to hunt the Sable with the archery equipment. It became quite apparent that this was not going to be possible. ON the second day I left the Bow in camp and did not bother again.


Kurt off on a stalk, while I waited in the Bakkie.

Later I joined a stalk and tried to get some pictures. The Sable were not cooperating.
It was very hard to pick them up and they were not standing around for a shot opportunity.

As we headed back for lunch we bumped into some Warthogs. The command from the rear was "shoot". Kurt took the instruction to heart and brought the bacon home for the Leopard bait and our dinner.

We made our way back to camp for lunch/brunch, whatever.

The twins. Not sure why this caught my attention.

We arrive back at camp and I was introduced the the mascot and found out that they are quite ravenous little devils. Frogs, Chicken, you name it.

He is here regaining his strength, as far as the game department is concerned.

After having a well prepared lunch from the well appointed kitchen.

It was time to embark on the repairs of the locally crafted table. It was making Simon and me nuts. Leaning and creaking so...

It took Vera another attempt on another day to really set it right. She cheated though, she had glue.

After a siesta, true Portuguese culture here. No use hunting in the heat of the day.

We went out late in the afternoon and found some beasts.

Still no luck.
No pictures of the herd at last light. Amazing the trackers could see them in the dark.

After a sit down dinner, which included Duiker roast and Chicken and Warthog, depending on the day.
We were chatting around the fire and we all heard a cracking sound coming from behind us and then a woosh. No panic, it was not above our heads.
I really did think it was past Kurts tent. As you can see, it was not.

A few loud calls of "are you all right" from Vera and confirmations no one was injured started the ball to repairs and recovery rolling.

BY the next day at lunch time the poles and straps were all replaced and you would not know anything was damaged.

On that note a few more minutes of chatting and we were off to bed.

Must have been good luck. No one was in the tent.

 

[BRICKBURN]

Great.... now @ROCKET is ahead of me for the apprentice position, just because he speaks the language, and is already in the business, and is generally more qualified....

Hell, I've even got one up on you. I have already qualified and we can arrange my PH license in Moz.

 

[Royal27]

Hell, I've even got one up on you. I have already qualified and we can arrange my PH license in Moz.

sniff.... that's downright hurtful....

 

[ROCKET]

Hell, I've even got one up on you. I have already qualified and we can arrange my PH license in Moz.

sniff.... that's downright hurtful....

Hey Royal......don´t worry my friend.....this not gonna be easy......at this moment "Ladynator" still working for Simon, soo, no vacancy for now.....in the other side Wayne is alot steps ahead/forward over us with his bloody PH Licence .......We need another plan......!!!!!

Does my Argentine licence valid in Moz....???.....

But allways there is a last chance.......save some money, paid Simon, get some trophies and have alot of fun and beer and bourbon rigth there in MoÇambique.........oh yeeessss......!!!!!!!


Wayne......as is normal in you, you are doing a great hunting report, I enjoy the pictures soo much and yes.......I can see the curved shape on the Sable horns........Landscape in Moz is very different I can see......did you find Moz too different than SA......???.......Is it a total different experiencia than SA....??

Thanks.....!!!!!

 

[BRICKBURN]

sniff.... that's downright hurtful....

 

[BRICKBURN]

.............
Wayne......as is normal in you, you are doing a great hunting report, I enjoy the pictures soo much and yes.......I can see the curved shape on the Sable horns........Landscape in Moz is very different I can see......did you find Moz too different than SA......???.......Is it a total different experiencia than SA....??

Thanks.....!!!!!

#1 Less thorns.
#2 Tsetse flies. There are areas with disease and without. This area falls out of the disease maps I found heartening.
#3 Terrain and Trees (Miombo Woodland) and grasses totally different. That part of Moz is so close to Tanzania that the terrain and cover is almost identical.
#4 Portuguese language - Need to learn more.
#5 The heat at mid day and the power of the sun is amazing. When we pushed through a couple of days, you must have LOTS of water.
#6 It is wild in the area and thus totally different than RSA.. Beside the roads you would see people, other than that, nothing.

Poverty was obvious. Spending more time in the area and visiting the people would be high on my return list.
The rural areas grass huts were amazing actually.

It was refreshing not to see garbage blowing up against every fence or bush, like some parts of RSA.
Don't get me wrong, there are more urban areas where there is a great similarity to RSA.


The people in the rural areas were very friendly and inquisitive. The children were actually quite scared of this monster White man with the big camera. I had to bribe some kids to stand still long enough to take pictures.

There is zero tourist crap. I mean zero. Try and find a souvenir!. You have to purchase the genuine artifact that the folks are actually using.

I need to learn more Portuguese. I learned a little.

"Grande Pala Pala" was most useful. Along with huge arm spread and huge laughter. I got lots of smiles.
"Obrigada", kinda handy.
"Buen Dia"

 

[ROCKET]

Thank you very much Wayne.....you have answered all I wanted to know and it is pretty close with what I was thinking about Moz.....I guess is a very good option for those who wants to give another step ahead in their safaris career......!!!!!

Thanks again....!!!!

 

[BRICKBURN]

In conversation with the trackers it was determined that it might just be a little better for the success rate if we were to get out of bed early enough to be out when the Sable were active. So, up at 0530 it was.

The mist wrapping the mountain occurs in the mornings and is gone all too soon.

This is Sable country.

More of the unique geology of the area; Inselberg - Gneiss Granitic outcroppings.

Some Sable sighted again and some more stalks for Kurt.

Martin and Ramondo guarding the rear on a Stalk. Always cautioned about bringing the rifle along just in case an Elephant is about.

I found some proof of the presence of Sable.

We took a little detour up the mountain by camp to get some mobile coverage for a catch up with civilization.

Some of the view from this height.

Back at camp I discovered one of those upgrades you just don't expect out here in a remote camp. Swimming pool, complete with water. I used it more for fire control before and after bed than swimming.

During the afternoon we found some more sign.

Large Grey Sable tracks

Then some of the right tracks. Old but at least they were the proper species.

We came up on a herd of Bachelors. All younger guys, but one day.

Another day........

 

[siml]

Wayne, trying to spot the sable in the earlier pic took some serious doing....