June 30, 2022
There have been hyenas “whooping” near camp every night. They usually start after dinner when we’re sitting by the fire. Then continue through the night until the morning sky turns an inky blue. The Africans tell me it’s a contact call. It’s not the laughing call I’ve heard on TV.
Luckily, it’s been in the upper 30’s so the space heater in my tent drowns out the sounds of the night and I sleep very well. That being said, there are occasions, when the thermostat is satisfied, that the heater shuts off allowing the “whoops” and grunts to wake me. I’m sure I’d get used to it if I stayed here long enough. It’s still new, though, so I can’t help but to, almost subconsciously, plot direction and distance between me and the semi-predators. I think it’s my primal stem, that left-over cluster of gray matter buried deep in my brain that enabled my species to make it this far. But, maybe it’s the newer parts of my brain, those outer layers usually inundated by Starbucks and digital media that are simply unfamiliar with sleeping in the presence of such animals. Either way, though, I’ve learned that there’s a switch on the heater that keeps the fan running even when the heater part isn’t. I sleep very well.
The plans made over breakfast were to perform a blind stalk or two starting with the area where we saw an exceptional steenbok yesterday morning then sit over a waterhole across the midday heat. The waterhole thing was my idea because my Africa Dreams have always included killing a warthog coming into a waterhole.
We weren’t far out of camp on the morning drive, though, when both of the Africans on the trucks saw a duiker. As far as I’m concerned, the duiker and steenbok are interchangeable, so Big John carried us down the road about a hundred or so yards and left us off.
When I was ready on the sticks, Nick started on the predator call hoping to call a duiker ram out of the roadside brush. The duiker didn’t respond but the acacia behind me starting to fill up with “tweety” birds agitated by the call. My PH was getting flustered as I took my attention off the opening where he expected the duiker appear and tried to get a few glimpses at the birds. “You’ve got to be ready. Duiker rams will only give you a second or two.”
A flash of blue over my shoulder forced me to steal another look. “Blue waxbills,” I thought. This was a bird that I really wanted to get but hadn’t seen yet. Conflicted, I tried to keep my focus on the duiker spot. After a few minutes, though, the PH either gave up on me or the duiker. He relented and let me turn around with the binoculars. I got a few looks at blue waxbills buried in the thorny tree before they cleared out. It was an unsatisfactory view and I didn’t even have the camera to get the customary bad photo. With the birds gone, Nick keyed the radio calling for Big John.
This isn’t the first time getting a new bird might have cost me a hunting opportunity. Once, I left a gobbling turkey in the Francis Marion National Forest to get a look at my first worm-eating warbler. I’ve seen a lot of worm-eating warblers since then but have only killed a couple of turkeys. Maybe I made the wrong decision.
Big John picked us up and drove to the steenbok location. We took a long walk. In addition to the gun, I slipped the camera over my should this time. We set-up exactly where the little antelope was sunning yesterday then Nick started the calling routine. No luck with the tiny ungulate but I did get some good bird photos including blue waxbills, finally, and green-winged pytilia.
We drove to a spot where Nick had seen some warthogs then started another long stalk. About halfway through the block, we came out of a gut with a blue wildebeest bull more than 200 yards away. It was too late to be stealthy because he’d already seen us. He didn’t spook but he blew. Immediately, the biggest pig I’d seen so far shot out of the block and across the distant road. Nick was visibly flustered and even (jokingly) asked for my gun so he could shoot the offending gnu who continued to just stand there and watch us. He whispered that big pigs are usually solitary so the chances of finding another shooter warthog were about nil. Even with that depressing news, we continued but neither of us was fully committed to the exercise. That changed when the sharp-eyed PH noticed a steenbok feeding in a slight draw. It wasn’t much of a ditch, but it did a good job of swallowing up the little deer-like antelope.
We froze, caught in the open sun for a long time, while the steenbok fed around in the thick cover. It took a while before the guy I was starting see of as a young version of Crocodile Dundee could convince himself that it was a ewe. I was almost glad for the relief…my heart was beating up into my throat. Like with the impala, I can’t explain the case of Buck Fever.
We tried to get to cover without bumping her but she darted up the draw. Unlike the larger herd animals we had been hunting, steenbok and duiker are solitary. To make up for not having a lot of friends, nature has given both of them eyes that are twice the size, relative to their heads, as the herd animals. Solitary steenbok, have proven impossible to stalk so far. If they did come in herds, I would think, they would be close to unkillable.
Since we already spooked her there was no harm in taking the short-cut out of the block. It was definitely her home range. Her tiny, thumb-sized, hoofprints were all over the ground and going in all directions. There were also surprisingly big piles of tiny little poops. These are middens and could indicate a male is in the area too. I made a mental note.
Tails tucked, we deployed the waterhole idea. I carried both the gun and the camera. Nick carried his gun and radioed for lunch to be brought to us. He left me in the blind, alone, with instructions to shoot a big pig if I had the chance. He slipped out and walked to the head of the road to get the lunch being dropped of for us. If anyone wants to see the birds and other animals of Africa, there’s no easier way than sitting over a waterhole. I photographed probably a dozen different bird species including blacksmith plovers, arrow-marked babblers, and a tiny raptor called a shikra. Big animals started showing up around noon. A really big sable bull with an oxpecker jockey let me get a couple of photos but knew something was up. A very timid bushbuck ewe came in and got a few nervous drinks then bolted back to cover. Then the warthog show started.
They came from just about every direction – At first, every group was a sow with young ones of various ages. Nick quizzed me on each little pig – whether it was a male or female. Basically, females only have two facial warts and males have four but they’re small when the pigs are small. Something I never knew was that young warthogs have a line of white whiskers that, at a distance, look like tusks. It’s nature’s way of making them look more capable of defending themselves than they really are. With the distraction of birds and baby warthogs, I forgot that I was hunting…until Nick said, “big pig…get your gun.”
I was caught totally flat footed. I felt like an offensive tackle getting hit in the helmet by a pass while blocking for a run play. I really can’t remember what I did with the camera or how I got to the gun. The pig was coming from a really thick patch almost directly across the waterhole from where we were. He walked around the rim of the waterhole to my right giving me a broadside shot. He'd stop every few steps and look around. “That’s a shooter if you want to take him,” Nick coached.
My conscious mind knew there are certainly better pigs around but I wasn’t unhappy with this one. Besides, I was ready to move my focus to the next animal on the list. I lined up and shot.
He wheeled around and took off in the direction he had come at a full warthog sprint, which isn't slow, but didn't act like he’d been hit. He covered the 40 or so yards of open, red dirt before he reached that insane thicket.
I don’t know if he paused at the edge of the brush or if it was one of those human things where time just seems to stop. With him facing almost directly away from me, I put my second shot in his left ham aiming across his body to the opposite front shoulder.
There wasn’t any real conscious thought other than to slow him down and hope the first shot was lethal. I saw a reaction to the second shot in the instant before he disappeared in the thicket.
Nick’s face told a story that I didn’t want to hear. “Why’d you rush that shot? You didn’t need to rush your shot…”
Struggling to answer his question, “I don’t know,” was all I could get out. “Did I hit him with the first shot?”
“You pulled your shot. You hit him back.”
Nick’s words made it sound like he suspected a gut shot but I just didn’t believe that. I had a clear mental picture of where the crosshairs were when the gun went off. I don’t know why but I had actually aimed my shot in the ribs rather than straight up the center of the front leg like my previous three African heart shots. I know I didn’t jerk the shot but I clearly remembered picking a spot on his ribs…why did I do that? Maybe my shooting problem has been mental rather than mechanical all along. The more immediate problem, though, was a wounded warthog.
I saw 10 different emotions run through Nicks face over about 2 seconds before he leaned back in the flimsy chair saying that we needed to wait for a while. Almost instantly, he fidgeted himself back to vertical and said, “nope, we’ve got to go now.”
It was clear that the mess I just created clearly didn’t lend itself to an obvious next step. I put two fresh shells in my gun but left it broke open. Nick grabbed his .375 H&H. My instinct was to head straight to where we saw the hog go into the brush. Nick said, “Nope. We start back here”, as he headed to where the pig was when I first shot. There was some dark red blood. I hadn’t missed but it didn’t look like lung blood either. Nick smelled it saying something to the effect that it didn’t smell like a gut shot. Nick followed each hoof print leaving a scrape with the toe of his boot each time he found blood. The scrapes were getting further and further apart then we reached the wall of brush. Once again, he drug his finger through the blood in the dirt and checked it. This time he said, “Stomach contents.”
It was my turn to run through a full set of emotions. The only thing to do was to turn the entire situation over to this kid, who is actually younger than my own son. He was the PH. Regardless of age or any other factors. He was in charge. “Okay, what do we do?” I asked.
Nick’s entire demeanor changed. He turned his pack around, dug out papers and tobacco, rolled and lit a cigarette. He bumped the rim of his hat with the back of his hand until he looked more like Robert Ruark than Mick Dundee. I don’t know if his transformation was a premeditated act or a legitimate result of the seriousness of the situation. He cycled the bolt on his .375 showing me he had a bullet going in the chamber then pushed the bolt closed. The sun was blistering hot. “Stick close. If we see this pig, I’m shooting it,” he said. I closed my gun too. He smoked about half of the cigarette then put it out in the red dirt and stepped into the brush. I stayed right behind him.
Somehow, he and I had become characters right out of a dozen safari stories I have read. Worse, I was playing the role of the schmuck client who wounded an animal and he was the PH charged with sorting things out. Surreal, again. It was so ethereal that I had to coach myself into taking it as both very real and very serious. I needed to stay alert and aware.
Nick’s tracking job through the waist-high brush looking for Schrödinger's warthog was painfully slow. He followed every quarter-step the pig had taken without taking his eyes off the brush directly ahead of us. I expected the bush on either side of us to erupt with angry warthog at any moment. It was hot. I wanted to wipe my eyes with my sleeve but was afraid to. I regretted not guzzling that bottle of water I left in the blind. One slow step after another.
It was less than 5 minutes and it wasn’t far, maybe 30 yards, before Nick straightened up. He notched his chin up in the air and stepped around behind me. I was confused. “There’s your pig.” It was only about 10 feet in front of me laying on his left side but it still took a moment to finally make out his righthand tusk sticking up in the brush. He reminded me of how we’d throw our bikes in the long grass at the fishing hole when we were kids with only the handlebar sticking up out of the grass.
He wasn’t struggling but was still breathing with shallow, labored breaths. I stopped that with one more shot. Nick couldn’t wait to drag him out into the open and examine his wounds.
The first shot was a passthrough but, as we both suspected, pretty far back. It either got the back of his lungs or his liver, maybe it split his diaphragm. The second shot broke his femur and tore through his stomach then, if it made it that far, into his chest cavity. It wasn’t pretty. It took two shots plus a finishing shot but I had my warthog. The only consolation was that I didn't lose him and that the PH didn't need to finish the job. These are very real risks to anyone who plops down his money and jumps on a plane to Africa. I knew the risks. They almost became a reality.
I don’t know if some poetic term like “foreshadowing” or “self-fulfilling prophesy” can be applied to my early predictions about my shooting. Maybe it was a wise self-evaluation of my own shortcomings or a childish defense mechanism. Regardless of all that, the real takeaway is that I am 100% responsible for the result of every bullet I shoot and, even at 58-years-of-age, I still have room for improvement.
Nick cleaned the blood off of the pig using handfuls of dirt and we ran through the trophy photo process. I got some photos of a tawny eagle before we bumped into one of the company owners and his buffalo client on the road coming into camp. The buffalo hunter, a rather quiet AH member, was from Canada and a nice fellow.
It was getting very dark by the time we were on the road back to camp but Africa made one more offer. A duiker ram busted from cover along the road and stopped in a shootable opening. Big John stopped the truck and I took a couple of grainy photos. Nick felt sure that the ram would hold still for a shot if I wanted to get off the truck and on the sticks. It wasn’t a huge ram and the trophy photos, the biggest reason I came to Africa, would have to be under artificial light. I declined several attempts by the PH to give it a try. One more cliché comes to mind, “You miss 100% of the shots you don’t take.” At least, this time, I couldn’t blame the birds but maybe the warthog was to blame. Either way, I stayed on the truck and we headed back to camp. The duiker could use another year to grow anyway.
The additional company around the fire was welcome. We all sampled Impala Mountain Oysters and had a dinner that started with snails (that were very good, by the way), followed by country-fried zebra and potatoes, salad, then carrot cake. The owner asked the chef a very specific question about the sourcing of the snails. It might have been a communication gap but the chef's answer seemed a little vague to me…
Blacksmith Plover at the waterhole
Far from the biggest tusks but his teeth were pretty worn.
Regardless of the hack job on the warthog, this is one of my favorite photos.
I like this one too.
Tawny Eagle
Country-fried Zebra Steaks