SOUTH AFRICA: First Safari In The Kalahari

I’m at work, but I’ll get the next several installments when I get back to the house.

OK, we'll let it slide this time. You do have to work to pay for the Taxidermy bill, so we do understand. :ROFLMAO:

Loving it brother, great start! Brings back memories. The beauty about reading this report this evening is that I'll be able to have a cigar while I read it. :ROFLMAO: :LOL:
 
Good write up and writing, longing for more. That Kalahari sand veld looks so inviting.
Astute observation! Those pictures bring back memories of that "sqweagy" sand under my feet.
 
I’m at work, but I’ll get the next several installments when I get back to the house.
Don’t let work get in the way of important things like a fantastic hunt report! The kalahari is one of my favorite places in Africa. Keep‘em coming!
 
Enjoying your report. Those migraines are bad a couple guys I have traveled with always get dehydration headaches on long flights. Glad your faded and you were able to enjoy the first morning afield.
 
Great report so far. I feel your pain regarding migraines. Pun very much intended. Not fun.

Can't wait for more, so...:E Tap Foot:
 
Great start to your report. Surprised they didn't cut you a real deal on the caracal instead of trapping it...... Looking forward to the rest.
Bruce
 
Lunch saw the return of the hospitable and always pleasant Heidi (Dries' wife), who joined us for lunch while Hans and Marie were away. We all enjoyed a nice lunch and some conversation. After lunch, Heidi returned home, staff in tow, and Frikkie and I had a conversation about my expectations for the week. I explained that this was as much a desperately needed vacation as well as a hunting trip, so I wanted to keep it low stress and enjoyable. I also explained that I like to hunt hard at home, and that I would appreciate the same opportunity to work for my kills there. Frikkie acknowledged my wishes and worked hard that week to meet them.

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Enjoying a break after lunch

After lunch we loaded into the bakkie to continue the search for gemsbok and springbok, the two animals on my plains game list. Now the springbok was really for my eldest child who desperately wanted me to hunt one; however, the gemsbok, or oryx as we call them back home, was entirely for me. Their rapier-like horns and their horse like gate captivated me as did their ability to withstand the driest of deserts and renowned ferocity in a fight. I have seen them in the wilds of New Mexico, but I wanted to hunt them most of all in their home territory of the Kalahari. Frikkie had been on the lookout for a prime bull all morning to no avail. This afternoon appeared to be much of the same. Nothing worth a second glance for hours. That’s not to say there wasn’t a plethora of game, but there were no shooter springboks or gemsboks to strike Frikkie’s fancy.

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One of the many gemsbok herds
About an hour to dark, Frikkie spotted a large group of gemsboks with some long-horned cows. “Where there’s big cows, there’s probably a good bull. Let’s go take a look.” As we descended from the truck, it struck me that I was about to embark on my first stalk in Africa, feeling completely unprepared.
“Get behind me,” Frikkie quietly barked as we walked up the sandy cut line. I obediently followed his footsteps, close enough behind to touch the Primos Trigger Sticks in his right hand. We stalked quietly in the tall grass towards the grazing gemsbok as they kept tabs on us from afar. They were uneasy in the quick blowing breeze, and the sun was still high enough to keep the shadows short.

“We should wait for the shadows to grow a bit,” Frikkie whispered. We waited.

Gemsboks are keen eyed, and they weren’t the only ones aware of our presence. Springbok and ostriches were upwind to our left watching us carefully as we crept from bush to bush. On we pressed, but the gemsboks were not foolish that day. They kept out of range, some 300-yards distant, for over a mile as we stalked them through the thigh high grass and dormant scrub of the Kalahari winter. The sun grew low as we crossed into the next block, so we called off the stalk with 15 minutes to sunset. The gemsbok had won. Chris drove back around to pick us up from the cut line, and we loaded up and went back for dinner.

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Sunset marks end of first stalk in Kalahari

Shortly we were back at the camp where Hans and Marie had just arrived from the Kgalagadi for dinner as well. Hans greeted me with his baritone voice as we jumped out of the truck. Hans and Marie are warm and hospitable hosts. They enquired about my trip and how well I was enjoying myself, as the also apologized unnecessarily for their absence. This night we would have dinner around the braai, as we would for the rest of the week. Red meat would be a staple of these meals, red meat and good conversation. This was something I could get used to enjoying.

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Braai - Our Nightly Ritual

After saying goodbye to my hosts for the night, Frikkie and I sat around the fire and discussed the day’s events. I expressed my embarrassment at the range, but he reassured me that it happens especially when our body isn’t up to the task. He could tell by the way I handled the firearm that it wasn’t new in my hands, and he could tell by our evening stalk that this wasn’t my first hunt. His only request was that I be open to constructive criticism.

“I know nothing,” I stated humbly.

I have been hunting since I was barely knee high to a grasshopper, but never in the Kalahari, so I deferred to his 20+ years of experience as a professional. He was satisfied with my humility, and with it, I think I earned my first modicum of respect from this veteran of the veld.
 
The next morning, I awoke before my alarm, this time refreshed and not wrecked by illness or the stress of travel. Better prepared, I was up and out early enough to start the coffee pot and was finally feeling excited for what the day would bring. When Frikkie joined me, he instantly noticed the marked changes, and we both remarked that this day would be a good day. We had croissants for today’s light breakfast fare. Hunger slaked and minds awake, we headed out to see what the bush had in store. Chris greeted us with a smile as Frikkie made known the plans for the morning drive. First order of business was to check the water holes and cut lines for lion tracks. Nothing but some brown hyena tracks. I marked the time with the flying of the sandgrouse, 0936. Next, we would continue the search for gemsbok same as the day before.

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Brown Hyena Tracks Make an Appearance

As we strove along the game trails that connect the cut lines, we saw little game until nearly 1030. Then they started to appear: hartebeest, springbok, impala, ostrich, buffalo, giraffes, and gemsbok. It was the giraffes that caught my eye. All my months of researching on AH had revealed a key point about these gentle giants: they can see, for miles. This gave me pause as Frikkie identified group after group of gemsboks, clever gemsboks. In one herd, he had seen a decent bull and so like any good PH, he made a plan.

He instructed Chris to take the long way around, to get the wind in our favor. Along the way, we spotted a committee of vultures perched in a large shepherd tree. “What are they doing here?” we collectively wondered. There are predators in the area, and the sight of the most obvious member of the savanna sanitation squad gives one pause. Frikkie and I disembarked from the now silent diesel, always keeping a side eye on the committee’s proceedings. We stalked single file towards the nearest herd of gemsbok, some 500 yards away, as we began to get the feeling that we were being watched. Nearing the grazing herds, there was a sudden start and run from the black wildebeests. What could it be? It was overcast, so we shouldn’t have been a cause of panic. Predator perhaps, but no, it was something else, something we had seen thirty minutes before the hysteria that would drive off our quarry out of range. The giraffes were all staring at us from nearly 700 yards away. Our cover had been blown by these towering sentinels. The casting of their gaze in our general direction was enough to unsettle the herds that relied on their advanced warning of danger.

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The Skyscraper Sentries that Gave Our Positions Away​

Defeated, Frikkie called for the truck.

“Chris, Chris, Chris…” his Afrikaans accent rolled over the radio. Nothing.
“Chris, Chris, Chris…” Nothing again.

Three more attempts, and Frikkie decided to radio Marie and see if she would have better luck with the big camp radio. Nothing. Frustrated, but undeterred, Frikkie decided to try a long shot: a phone call. Now phone service was garbage in this part of the Kalahari, but enough signal for a text could be found. Chris replied. He had been to the committee to witness the proceedings. Apparently, there was nothing on the docket, only idle chatter. Typical politicians.

“He is brave, he doesn’t even have a rifle,” Frikkie remarked with a chuckle.

The familiar lumbering image of the diesel bakkie was a welcome sight. It had been a long, cold, uneasy stalk for those gleaming rapiers in the distance. It was 1130. It was finally starting to warm as the clouds and dust cleared. We were driving back to camp for an early lunch, or so we thought.

As we passed by a large pan where there was a congregation of antelope and the stray giraffe, Frikkie spotted gemsbok on our right. A large bull was in the group, so with a snap of the fingers, the truck stopped, and with a twist of the wrist, mimicking keys, the engine fell silent. After a long look, Frikkie climbed out of the truck, and I handed him my rifle. This would be the third stalk for gemsbok in two days. I was undeterred. I was having an adventure, and Frikkie was determined to see something in the salt. We crept forward, much as before, and much as before, these clever beasts were on to our game. Only a few hundred yards into the stalk, Frikkie had a change of heart, or rather, a change of plans.

Frikkie had noticed with the aid of his binoculars while looking for our roving gemsbok bull, amongst the mingling herds, was a springbok, a nice one. Unbeknownst to me, he had made a plan.

“There’s a nice springbok right there.”

Suddenly our direction changed and our paced quickened as Frikkie tried to intercept the new target. I was shooting a 416 Remington Magnum, overkill for a springbok, but also a bit slow for long shots on such a small target. We weaved quickly in and around some black thorn and dormant camel thorn, suddenly reaching a broad opening. Sticks went up.

“He’s the one at the back.” “I’m going to support your elbow, you just put it right above the stripe, at the shoulder. Like we talked about.”

The night before we had discussed where to put the bullet on the various game planned for the week. Considering the drop, I would have to aim just above the stripe to drop the bullet at the center of it where it met the shoulder. I dialed the scope to 6x and rested it on the designated target. My breathing was quick but not heavy. A slow exhale calmed the whirling crosshairs. The bullet was sent, and the next round chambered. The springbok jerked skyward, and Frikkie let go of my elbow to shake my hand.

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“You got him, congratulations.”

Rifle safe and handshake secured, we proceeded to the spot where he lay. The springbok had staggard backwards roughly 15 yards before expiring.

“That’s the definition of overkill,” Frikkie clucked as we walked up.

I emptied the chamber and hanged the rifle on the once again setup sticks.

“That was a tough shot with a 416, 140 yards probably and a small target. I can work with that," my PH said with a smile.
 
After a hearty lunch with the De Klerk’s, Frikkie, Chris, and I went out for the afternoon to look for gemsbok and lion tracks. That afternoon, the wind howled across the Kalahari whipping up a haze that I recognized from Arizona as sand. This would be a bleak, windblown drive. It would go on for hours, no sign of lion, and no gemsbok worth a second look. Frikkie and I would be wind burned and dehydrated by the end of it. Just before 1700 we were both starting to think today would be another bust for lion tracks or big gemsbok bulls. We continued, Frikkie looking for tracks leaving the search for gemsbok to me. I would point out a herd, and if something caught his eye, Frikkie would signal to Chris to stop the truck so he could glass them for a discerning look.

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Another pair of young gemsboks

Just after 1710, I casually pointed out some gemsbok on our left. Frikkie looked, truck stopped, binoculars up, engine silent.

“I think that’s the bull from yesterday. Do you have bullets in your gun?”
I nodded.
“Ok, let’s go have a look.”

We dismounted our rig and proceeded in much the same fashion as our other stalks with the sun and wind strong on our left. There was a group of about 4-7 gemsbok, with one good bull. They were grazing about 300 yards off the cut line unaware of our presence. As we rounded the first thorn tree 150 yards from the truck, Frikkie froze. “They’re staring right at us.” The sun was too high, for the gemsbok’s keen eyes to continue our approach. We needed the shade of the long shadows that come with evening to make a deadly approach. “We’ll just wait a bit for the sun to sink,” Frikkie whispered as we rounded the shady side of the tree.

We stood, Frikkie resting his binoculars on the Trigger Sticks, and I half crouched under the low branches of the tree. There we waited for what seemed an eternity, flies searching out the moisture of our sweating faces in the arid land. Thirty minutes later, my back groaned with cramps from my half crouch. Finally, Frikkie saw an opportunity. “Let’s try and move up to the next tree.” We stalked quietly and cautiously through the shade and sun to our next post. This time the wait was short, the flies were finally having their effect on the old boy. He stamped his feet and swung his head, we advanced. We had closed the gap to 100 yards. The sticks went up, as we were now on the bull's 5 o'clock.

“Put it right in the crease of the shoulder.” I focused the crosshairs and started to squeeze, but something wasn’t right.
“Wait, wait, he's turning, just relax.”
I eased up off my target.
“Let’s see if we can get closer.”

We moved up another 25 yards as the herd grazed facing away from us. Resuming our positions, we prepared for the shot. “Wait for him to turn, he’ll go through one of those two gaps.” “When you have the shot, take it,” my PH whispered hoarsely. I waited, albeit impatiently, while I tried to regain control of my hurried breathing. The bull started to the right, and I started the countdown. Again, something wasn’t right. This time, I had noticed through the scope a female was walking behind him.

“There’s one behind him,” I said as I eased up on the trigger.
“Ok, just wait a bit for her to clear.”

Five seconds passed, and we were back in the game. This time my crosshairs were calm, so I rested them at the spot, now on the shoulder, which Frikkie had instructed. With a roar, the 400 grains crashed through the shoulder of the unsuspecting bull. Frikkie and I both knew the shot was fatal. A handshake and a smile followed. “That shot was 100%, congratulations.” We walked up cautiously to rapier horned brute; on the off chance he didn’t know he was dead.

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"See how the hair stands up like that...That’s how you know they’re dead, if not shoot again.”
 
Excellent story so far, congrats on your Springbuck and Gemsbuck. I'm looking forward to your next chapters, you have an enjoyable writing style.
 
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A Dream Realized, My First Gemsbok

I was absolutely awestruck at the size of the oryx bull. Up until that point, I’d only ever seen them at a distance. The markings on his face were bright and bold, his horns worn smooth from years of fencing with those who would lay claim to his harem of spire horned mistresses. This was the animal I wanted to chase more than any other in the sand and thorns, more than lion. The gemsbok did not disappoint. This was the fourth stalk, and, although short by distance, this was a test of nerves and stealth as the unwavering eyes were always fixed in our direction.

As we turned around to find Chris watching the entire stalk from the truck, it struck us that this stalwart sentry was not, in fact, watching us, but watching Chris and the bakkie highlighted by the afternoon sun.

“I would have told him to keep driving,” Frikkie said with a smirk as he waived and grabbed his radio.

We completed the customary photo shoot and prepared to load the bull into the truck. “The winch is broken, so we’ll need your strength today,” Frikkie said as he sized up my multi-story frame. Chris had the horns, Frikkie, the forelegs, and I the tail and hind quarters. We heaved the nearly 500 pounds of dead gemsbok into the truck.

We arrived at the skinning shed, a large concrete building equipped with hoists and hoses, and were greeted by half a dozen staff members who eagerly awaited caping out the first large animal of the week. Frikkie explained the specifics of butchering a gemsbok, as we awaited the reveal of the exact placement of the bullet. His horns would measure 35 inches.

“The lungs and the aorta,” Frikkie translated as Adam, the senior most tracker, described with a smile. I was relieved and happy to know that the bullet really had hit its mark. The bullet was not recovered as it exited opposing shoulder of its entry.

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A Celebratory Cigar

After getting our answer about shot placement, we headed back to camp for a sundowner and dinner with the De Klerks. This night we would be joined by their son, Yvan. Yvan is a 23-year-old copy of his father, currently developing his experience as a cattle rancher, PH, and outfitter. He is also quite the burgeoning braaier, with a few delicacies and disasters to his credit. As a previous line cook at a steak restaurant in college, I traded banter with him about various grilling techniques and recipes. After another fantastic meal and fireside chat, I celebrated with a Rocky Patel A-10 Edge cigar and another brandy and coke, as Frikkie rotisseried himself around the fire. We went to bed early as we knew the next morning would bring the focus on finding a lion.
 
The next morning saw us up and out by 0700 in the cold Kalahari morning. We had been passively searching for lioness each of the previous days, but we hadn’t seen any fresh sign nor heard any of the typical morning exchanges that frequent the early dawn hours. Were there even lions here?

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On This Windy Morning, One Thing Would Be Our Focus

Frikkie was surprised at the lack of spoor and sound, but hopeful that today’s exhaustive search would remedy the situation. “It’s been very cold and windy, that can make the animals less active,” he posited. The wind had been bad all week, and today it would reach a fever pitch. Today, however, all of us would join in the search, as we would no longer be preoccupied with gemsbok.

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Buffalo Would Prove Unhelpful During Our Search

Cutline to cutline, water hole to water hole, we searched the sand for any sign of our quarry. The bakkie rolled along quickly as Frikkie and Chris’ experienced eyes could scan the ground at a startling pace. For me, it was information overload for the better part of 2 hours, the tracks running together like raindrops on a windshield as I struggled to discern the various spoor.

However, as we started down our fifth cut line of the morning, I had an epiphany and started to read the sand at pace. Now, there were 3 of us combing the ground, Frikkie scanning the right, Chris scanning the middle, and I the left. Somewhere down this fifth line, I spotted something familiar along the edge of the road. “Frikkie, I think I’ve got lion tracks,” I belted out over the sound of the engine. Frikkie called to Chris to stop the truck.

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Fresh Sign Is Like a Cold Drink of Water

A quick glance was all he needed to confirm my suspicion.

“Let’s get out and have a look.”

The diesel once again went silent as we walked carefully to the tracks. They inspected the tracks, like two appraisers looking at antiques, they quietly whispered in Afrikaans their assessment of the spoor’s value.

“They’re fresh, and from a female. It looks like we’ve found your girl,” Frikkie declared after a consensus was reached. The next order of business was to circle the block to verify no holes in their appraisal...
 
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Enjoying your report and eager for the highlight. You’ve got a couple wonderful trophies already!
 
Great story keep going and thanks for the effort in sharing! Two things. You may learn to love the Kalahari. That sand and general environment is hard to describe accurately. To some it's no more than harsh sameness. But there is something about it that makes me feel good when in it- the animals, the people or a combination of all of it. I got a kick out of reading that you also recognized a not well known little quirk of the critters sharing their home with giraffe. I've noticed it every time I've been in areas with giraffe. They are always accompanied by other animals. One day.... like a light bulb turning on... ding! Those other animals are using giraffe as their aerial recon warning system! :)
 
Great story keep going and thanks for the effort in sharing! Two things. You may learn to love the Kalahari. That sand is hard to describe accurately. To some it no more than harsh sameness. But there is something about it that makes me feel good when in it- the animals, the people or a combination of all of it. I got a kick out of reading that you also recognized a not well known little quirk of the critters sharing their home with giraffe. I've noticed it every time I've been in areas with giraffe. They are always accompanied by other animals. One day.... like a light bulb turning on... ding! Those other animals are using giraffe as their aerial recon warning system! :)
So true, on both accounts.
 

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Grz63 wrote on Werty's profile.
(cont'd)
Rockies museum,
CM Russel museum and lewis and Clark interpretative center
Horseback riding in Summer star ranch
Charlo bison range and Garnet ghost town
Flathead lake, road to the sun and hiking in Glacier NP
and back to SLC (via Ogden and Logan)
Grz63 wrote on Werty's profile.
Good Morning,
I plan to visit MT next Sept.
May I ask you to give me your comments; do I forget something ? are my choices worthy ? Thank you in advance
Philippe (France)

Start in Billings, Then visit little big horn battlefield,
MT grizzly encounter,
a hot springs (do you have good spots ?)
Looking to buy a 375 H&H or .416 Rem Mag if anyone has anything they want to let go of
 
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