Monday 29th May ( Day 23 )
Left the SS Pro lodge this morning at 0430 for the drive back to Johannesburg. It was sad to say farewell to everybody but I am looking forward to my next adventure. The plan is for Abel to drop me off at Trans African Taxidermy for a site visit. I say goodbye to Abel who has been a terrific PH over the last 13 days. I meet Rodney, the owner of Trans African Taxidermy and he takes me for a tour of his facilities. I feel that I have made a good choice to have my taxidermy done here. My driver for KwaZulu Natal picks me up and we set off for the 4 – 5 hours drive south. The countryside is much the same for most of the journey with big open spaces with grassland and corn fields. These open plains are crossed by multiple high voltage power lines and every now and again there are groups of large trees which I immediately recognise as Australian Eucalyptus. The roads are very good and we have travelled nearly all the way on dual lanes. The procession of trucks going both directions is endless as this highway is the main supply link between Johannesburg and the port at Durban. I am tired but I cannot sleep in a car driven by someone else and besides I might miss something.
Endless grasslands enroute to KZN
We finally enter KwaZulu Natal and the countryside changes almost immediately to hills and bush. We turn off the main highway and head toward Dundee and I finally get to meet Tyrone Milne of Chumlet safaris. (He also smokes ) We transfer my gear into his Bakkie and head into the lodge. It is a lovely location and the accommodation is very comfortable. We sit around the fire and I have a couple of beers, dinner and off to bed as it has been a big day.
Dinning area, very nice
Camp set in beautiful location
Very comfortable accommodation
Tuesday 30th May ( Day 24 )
We go and check the guns at the range as the first part of the trip yesterday morning was along poor gravel roads and my gun case was in the back of the Bakkie. Just as well we checked as it was shooting a bit to the right. After a bit of adjustment we head off in search of Nyala.
My main purpose for coming to KZN was to hunt a really good Nyala in its native habitat and Tyrone from Chumlet safaris offers the ability to hunt free range. I had previously taken a representative Nyala in 2015 in the Eastern Cape. My conversation with Tyrone was that I would like a good Nyala ( As they say in these parts “ Proper Big Bull” ) with a classic flare out on the tips. I also said that I will not be disappointed if we do not take a trophy Nyala so long as we have a good hunt.
Today we are going to hunt a free range area to the south. We have one of the farm hands with us who said he has been seeing bulls at the south end of the property. We walk to the edge of a plateau and glass the opposite side. We immediately see some Kudu and after about half an hour 3 young Nyala bulls slowly make their way through a semi clear area. They appear to be making their way down to water which is in the valley below. We continue glassing but see no other bulls and decide to break for lunch.
There are 3 Nyala bulls in the semi clear in the centre of the photo.
After lunch I want to check my 280AI as it may be my go to rifle if a long shot is required. I find that it is shooting a fraction high which may be due to the fact that it is sighted in at sea level and now we are at approximately 2800m above. I am now happy with both the 300 WSM and the 280AI out to 300 m so of we go and look for a proper big Nyala.
We glass from a hillside and below we find 3 Kudu bulls resting but no Nyala. We move to another hillside and glass the valley below. Ben ( Tyrone’s tracker/skinner and all round handyman) spots a large bodied bull on the hill behind us. We try to get closer to assess his horns but he moves behind some bush and remains there. It is now getting dark so we decide to return in the morning.
3 Kudu bulls resting around midday
Wednesday 31st May ( Day 25 )
We walked to the top of the hill where we had seen the Nyala bull the previous afternoon and found lots of sign to indicate that they use this area often. We walk through the thick vegetation and all of a sudden we get a glimpse of a fleeing Nyala (Busted). In the afternoon we head over to the neighbours farm and see Kudu as we drive the unmaintained tracks up toward a small set of mountain ranges. We then walk to the top and glass the flat below. This is a wild place with thick vegetation and plenty of water, perfect Nyala habitat. Just before dark we see a Nyala bull with 2 ewes but it is too late for a stalk and we head home in the dark.
Thursday 1st June ( Day 26 )
Away early this morning and there is frost on the grass. Not a good sight for someone who lives in the tropics. We walk across a plateau and glass the valley below. Tyrone points out the mountain range in the distance and you could just make out the snow on the top. I have never been up close to snow and I am starting to reckon that I am far too close at the moment. I am chilled to the core and the sun is only just coming up.
After a while I am starting to thaw out and Tyrone announces that he has found a couple of Nyala. Ben and I follow Tyrone along the edge of the plateau and we carefully make our way out to a rocky ledge. I peer over and in a small grass area below are two Nyala bulls lying down. The two bulls are bedded on some short grass and they then get up. Tyrone said that there is another bull coming and I get the rifle ready. I am in a perfect position, I put the bipod down and get comfortable. I watch the incoming bull and he puffs himself up, raises his back hair and folds his tail over his back. It was a spectacular sight as he makes his way out into the open. He is a good bull but his points were not flared out but he was long. Tyrone was saying “ He is a good bull” but in the back of my mind I was saying to myself that we have days left and it is not really what I have come for. I say to Tyrone that I am going to pass. I continue to look at him through the scope. He is 275m away, perfect broadside, I have a perfect rest on a big rock and will probably never get a better opportunity. Should I take him? I am torn but finally look up from the scope. The feeling was a mix of satisfaction and doubt, something only a hunter can appreciate after having a trophy in their sights and deciding to let him walk. I still have that magnificent memory of a “proper bull” in all his displaying splendour.
The bull mentioned in text
We left them and continued walking and glassing further along the plateau. After several kilometres we had seen another 3 bulls but they were only young. We must have walked through some pepper ticks during the morning as they were all over us. Tyrone decided we will go back to the Bakkie for lunch and he has some spray that will halt their progress. These ticks are so small I was wondering what he was talking about until I had a close look and could see them all over my clothes. I had some deet in my backpack and rubbed it all over. It appeared to work as I only suffered a few bites. After lunch we walked to another side on the plateau but did not see any bulls.
Friday 2nd June ( Day 27 )
The plan today was to take our lunch in a backpack and walk along the edge of a large mountain plateau and glass likely areas below. This farm was a huge free range property and Tyrone said that it has some very good Nyala and Kudu. We set off and the plan was to walk down a small pass through a valley and up onto the plateau the other side. Tyrone was in the lead and I was lagging in the rear. I looked over to the far hillside and caught a glimpse of a Nyala bull in a clearing. I whistled Ben and he came back but we could not get a good look at his horns. He was in some thick vegetation and all I could see was his legs. After some time, Tyrone, who now realised that no one was following him came back and we told him what had happened.
As we were waiting another absolute cracker of a bull was seen walking down a ridgeline about 700m away. Even with the naked eye you could see he was a “Proper Big Big Bull”. He had the perfect shaped horns and I could see through the scope that he was the trophy of a lifetime. He kept walking and finally disappeared into some thick bush. We gathered our gear and headed in his direction. When we got close to where he had disappeared it became obvious that we would have to be very lucky to see him again. The bush was so thick and you could not be quiet moving through it. Our only hope was that he was old, blind, deaf and had no sense of smell. He was none of these and we finally gave up looking and continued with our original plan. (What a bull)
The cracker bull was seen on the lower far ridgeline
Tyrone, planning our next move.
We continued until about 2 pm and had only seen some ewes and a young bull. We walked back to the hillside where we had seen the two bulls this morning and set up in case they showed in the late afternoon. The shadows grew long and the only thing that stirred was a jackal. We called it a day but I have another vision now etched in my memory.
Typical Nyala habitat KZN
Saturday 3rd June ( Day 28 )
We hunted on a huge fenced concession today and waited for the sun to come up. As the sun created the most magical sunrise. I think it was reflecting off ice as it was bitterly cold this morning.
We saw many different animals trying to sun themselves including a couple of good Kudu bulls. Over the last 5 days I have seen numerous Kudu and some very good trophy bulls. The sun was starting to warm the surrounds and Tyrone got a radio call from the farm owner to say that he had seen some Nyala ewes and a bull. We got in the Bakkie and drove up hill and it became very steep and Tyrone decided to leave the Bakkie on a spot that he could turn around and we will continue on foot. The walk up was strenuous and I was glad when we stopped going up. We got to the place where the farm owner had indicated and started glassing the area below. We could see the ewes but no bull. After about an hour Ben and I walked down the mountain to overlook a water dam as it was believed that the Nyala may make their way for water. We waited patiently but nothing turned up except Hartebeest, Kudu and Warthog. Tyrone went back to the Bakkie and when he came to pick Ben and I up for lunch he said that he had seen a group of females and a good bull but they had moved into some thick cover.
In the afternoon we made our way along the mountainside opposite to where Tyrone had seen the bull before lunch. After about an hour a female Nyala was seen feeding out into the open. It was not too long before we could see more females and Tyrone was sure that these were the same ones as this morning. We just had to wait for the big bull to come out. I setup on a rock and put the bipod down. I used my backpack as a butt support and was comfortable. I ranged the opening at 475m and even though it was going to be a long shot, I was prepared to take it if the opportunity presented. We waited all afternoon and the ewes finally fed their way back into the thick bush and we did not see any big bull.
The clear area in the centre of the picture is where the Nyala ewes were feeding.
Sunday 4th June ( Day 29 )
We went back to the place where we saw the the proper big big Nyala a couple of days before and waited for the sun to come up and warm the hills. ( and me ) Ben and I glassed the same area and Tyrone went to another valley. I could hear the clashing of horns in the thick bush on the opposite hillside and Ben said that it was Kudu bulls sparing. After a while 5 Kudu bulls appeared in a clearing and one in particular was a very good bull. They finally made their way across the mountainside and into the thick bush. By about 10 am we had not seen any Nyala and neither had Tyrone so he decided we were to go and have a look in another valley system. We walked over to the edge and could see some ewes near a watering trough and there were a few more bedded in some shade. Shortly the ewes that were at the water bounced off and they were followed by two young bulls.
In the afternoon we went back to the area where we had seen the 3 bulls on the first day. We approached from a different direction and walked up a cutting into the mountain. The vegetation was very thick and only offered limited opportunities to glass the opposite hills. Other than more Kudu we did not see anything.
Monday 5th June ( Day 30 )
Today we are to travel to a fenced farm near “Rorke’s Drift” a place made famous by the Zulu war with the British. There was a thick layer of fog that made visibility limited in the early dawn. As the sun started to rise a big bank of cloud formed to the east which delayed the first rays of warming sun. It was very cold but after about an hour the first rays of sunlight started to warm the country side and all that lived in it. Some Nyala females were spotted on a small ridge and after a while two bulls were visible. We looked them over and one in particular was a good bull but his tips went straight up and I decided to pass on him. I said to Tyrone that I did not come to Africa just to shoot any Nyala bull and I am enjoying the hunt. I again reassured him that I will be still happy if I go home without taking a Nyala trophy. We drove around the property further and in the distance Ben spotted some Nyala females that we should go and have a closer look. We arrive close to the location and the female are seen making their way through a clearing in the bush. I get on the sticks and wait. Soon a good Nyala bull comes into view and I have a good look at him through the scope but once again pass. The day was warming rapidly and I knew my chances of taking a Nyala were diminishing. We went back to where we had started in the morning and 4 Nyala bulls were seen entering some thick vegetation about 1 kilometre down the river. This may be our chance. We skirted around the hills on the riverbank and came out above where the bulls had entered. After searching for over an hour they appeared to have been swallowed up by the bush. The afternoon wore on and we did not see any more bulls.
Ben worked really hard over the last 7 days to try and find a PBN.
Tuesday 6th June ( Day 31 ) Last day in Africa, so sad
A plan was made the night before to try hard this morning to nail a Proper Big Nyala (PBN).
Before first light this morning was a hive of activity. The owner of the farm (father and son) as well as two of their farm workers along with Ben, Tyrone and myself were to scout different parts of the property and call via radio if Nyala were sighted. Everyone wanted me to get my PBN. They were so generous with their time and resources to help me achieve my goal. We moved out to our various locations and glassed and glassed and glassed. For hours the radios were silent and it was a very sad moment when I said to Tyrone that I think we should call it as I have packing to do and a plane to catch. We went back to the lodge and I packed my gear and waited for the driver.
The last 8 days have been the best days of my whole time in Africa even though I did not fire a shot. I really enjoyed hunting Nyala in a free range situation and walking the mountains and plateaus of KwaZulu Natal. The hunting experience was magnificent and I enjoyed each day. I know Tyrone felt disappointed that he was unable to put me onto the trophy that I wanted. But, I was a pretty fussy client and Tyrone is a true professional. He has even offered me a PBN Nyala at no trophy fee if I want to return. ( I will certainly take him up on that offer. "I will be back")
Note: If you want to hunt trophy Kudu this is the best place. We saw Trophy Kudu bulls each day on both fenced concessions and free range.
I said goodbye to everyone and we started on the road trip back to Johannesburg. As we were driving out and I was staring out the window I reflected on the last month.
What a trip!