Shoulder bump or neck size?

Nevada Mike

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Some handloaders say you should bump the shoulder .002" - .004". Others say fireform, then neck size only. For non DG loads what do you like to do? Why?
 
I always bump the shoulder .001-.002. It keeps it as close to chamber as I can but still pushes the neck back. My thought process is I never want my neck to grow longer than my chamber causing feeding issues. I'm not sure if its right or not but it works for me.

I'm in the camp where most practices work, just do what you like don't over complicate things.
 
If I am just loading target loads I'll just neck size.

However if I am loading hunting loads I'll full length size and try every finished round in my rifles chamber.
 
Mostly, I neck size with a shoulder bump. Otherwise my cases start to stick (at least on my Weatherby). The 416 Rem gets a FL resize, but it’s shoulder only moves .001-.002”. The Weatherby moves like .008-0.010” on the fire form.
 
I prefer partial resizing for all loads. That is: adjust the full-length resizing die so that the case chambers with very slight resistance. This way the cases have minimal room to stretch and the firing pin gets a solid whack at the primer.
 
My method is partial full-length sizing/shoulder bump. I set the full length die to set the shoulder back .002-.003. I size this way so that the rounds should always chamber without overworking my brass, especially with belted magnums.
 
Target brass: As wswolf mentioned. Minimal brass movement.
Hunting brass non-belted: Shoulder bump 0.002”.
Hunting brass belted:Only neck size after fire forming.
When they become difficult to chamber, I run them through my Larry Willis die and keep going.
I have some Norma 300H&H brass that I’ve loaded and fired 27 times. No signs of case head separation, but I retired them anyway.
 
Target brass: As wswolf mentioned. Minimal brass movement.
Hunting brass non-belted: Shoulder bump 0.002”.
Hunting brass belted:Only neck size after fire forming.
When they become difficult to chamber, I run them through my Larry Willis die and keep going.
I have some Norma 300H&H brass that I’ve loaded and fired 27 times. No signs of case head separation, but I retired them anyway.
I am going the same way... I have several rifles using belted rounds - .375 H&H, 308 Norma Magnum, and 7mm Remington Magnum - I have Willis' collet die for re-siizine (from Innovative Technologies) and am fire forming and neck sizing with Lee Collet Neck Sizing Die or Redding neck size dies.
For non belted rounds - 280 AI, 25-'06, 257 Roberts, 404 Jeffery, and 30-'06 - I full length size with a mild shoulder bump. I also use the Lees FCD with all hunting rounds. No problems so far with brass life.
 
I am going the same way... I have several rifles using belted rounds - .375 H&H, 308 Norma Magnum, and 7mm Remington Magnum - I have Willis' collet die for re-siizine (from Innovative Technologies) and am fire forming and neck sizing with Lee Collet Neck Sizing Die or Redding neck size dies.
For non belted rounds - 280 AI, 25-'06, 257 Roberts, 404 Jeffery, and 30-'06 - I full length size with a mild shoulder bump. I also use the Lees FCD with all hunting rounds. No problems so far with brass life.
Willis’ collet die is the best thing since the invention of the belted magnum! lol…
 
On non-DG bolt-action rifles, just neck size. NEVER have I gotten one stuck in the gun it was intended for use in. Because the case fits that particular chamber PERFECTLY and it contributes to maximum consistency (accuracy) for longer range shots. Other actions and any DG gun should be FL sized (for proper feed/extract with weaker actions and/or poss. loss of life situations.) Some higher pressure (big belted mags come to mind) rounds should be checked from time to time and FL resized as necessary. All that said, I did once dial in my Son's 300 WM using handloads for my gun...They did seem a little sticky in his gun (but they shot 0.5" groups, so I stuck with 'em for the PG part of our hunt in Namibia.) In the 98F temps, my ammo wasn't working in his gun (compounded by being a factory Rem 700 with no CRF and a weak extraction system) so luckily the PH had a couple boxes of factory ammo and we quickly dialed my Son's rifle in with it and continued hunting. IF you FL size, dedicate it to that one gun....
 
I shoot PRS and reload thousands of rounds a year. Save yourself the potential headache of getting a stuck round or not being able to chamber a round. Full length size and bump the shoulder back .002-.003. With brass of good quality you’ll more than likely shoot a barrel out before you need new brass due to case stretch.
 
If I am just loading target loads I'll just neck size.

However if I am loading hunting loads I'll full length size and try every finished round in my rifles chamber.



1717446415036.png
 
On non-DG bolt-action rifles, just neck size. NEVER have I gotten one stuck in the gun it was intended for use in. Because the case fits that particular chamber PERFECTLY and it contributes to maximum consistency (accuracy) for longer range shots. Other actions and any DG gun should be FL sized (for proper feed/extract with weaker actions and/or poss. loss of life situations.) Some higher pressure (big belted mags come to mind) rounds should be checked from time to time and FL resized as necessary. All that said, I did once dial in my Son's 300 WM using handloads for my gun...They did seem a little sticky in his gun (but they shot 0.5" groups, so I stuck with 'em for the PG part of our hunt in Namibia.) In the 98F temps, my ammo wasn't working in his gun (compounded by being a factory Rem 700 with no CRF and a weak extraction system) so luckily the PH had a couple boxes of factory ammo and we quickly dialed my Son's rifle in with it and continued hunting. IF you FL size, dedicate it to that one gun....
Your last sentence, "IF you FL size, dedicate it to that one gun..." Shouldn't that read, "IF you neck size..."
 
Neck size. No issues. Brass last longer too. For DG it will get the FL trip.
As for the above video I just don’t get all the arm waving and hollering?
 

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