Safe to reload pressure sign brass

TnKen

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I have been working on loads for my new 358 win and have some brass that show pressure singes on head. I’ve never had any pressure issues before because I don’t try to push the limits when I load, but this rifle showed signs 3 grains below max. I was just wondering if I should toss this brass or keep using it.
IMG_5601.jpeg
 
Bolt gun? If so, how was the bolt handle lift and extraction? Any stiffness or extra effort needed? A bit hard to tell how flat that primer actually from looking straight at it vs from the side but looks pretty flat. Also looks like there’s a mark on the brass for sure. If pressure 3 grains below max, time to switch powders and try again.
 
The only time I’ve switched brass was when 416 RM Norma brass proved too soft and had extraction issues with multiple powders. Suggest trying one or two different powders first before abandoning brass. I’ve had good luck with H4350 in larger calibers, it’s the lowest pressure power for the 35’s on up.
 
Bolt gun? If so, how was the bolt handle lift and extraction? Any stiffness or extra effort needed? A bit hard to tell how flat that primer actually from looking straight at it vs from the side but looks pretty flat. Also looks like there’s a mark on the brass for sure. If pressure 3 grains below max, time to switch powders and try again.
Yes it was a bolt action, and was sticky on the lift. I have reduced my loads and have one that is giving above book velocity, but with less powder and no more pressure signs
 
Yes it was a bolt action, and was sticky on the lift. I have reduced my loads and have one that is giving above book velocity, but with less powder and no more pressure signs
Back powder off and continue to chronograph each round.

Some manufactures brass is a bit thicker and this happens.

I suspect when you chronograph appropriate velocities the pressure signs will go away.

Just my 2 cents.
 
That primer is definitely flat all the way to the edge, but not cupped around the firing pin.

It's hard to see if there is a bulge ring just ahead of the extractor groove, but if not I'd say the bass is still good.

Is the brass all the same manufacturer? As @ftrovato posted, some brass is thicker than others, and will produce different pressures.

I'd definitely try a different powder and primer combination, starting loads then work up from there.
 
I have been working on loads for my new 358 win and have some brass that show pressure singes on head. I’ve never had any pressure issues before because I don’t try to push the limits when I load, but this rifle showed signs 3 grains below max. I was just wondering if I should toss this brass or keep using it. View attachment 695759
If the primer pockets are still tight i would use it again & reduce the propellant charge a little.
 
Back powder off and continue to chronograph each round.

Some manufactures brass is a bit thicker and this happens.

I suspect when you chronograph appropriate velocities the pressure signs will go away.

Just my 2 cents.
Very much this. A chronograph is one of the best investments to make for hand loading. There are a lot of options, but the new Garmin unit is amazing from a quick to deploy, easy to use, very accurate.... it's just also very expensive.
 
Very much this. A chronograph is one of the best investments to make for hand loading. There are a lot of options, but the new Garmin unit is amazing from a quick to deploy, easy to use, very accurate.... it's just also very expensive.
The garmin is what I'm using, and it is great. Very easy and quick to set up and use.
 
I have been working on loads for my new 358 win and have some brass that show pressure singes on head. I’ve never had any pressure issues before because I don’t try to push the limits when I load, but this rifle showed signs 3 grains below max. I was just wondering if I should toss this brass or keep using it. View attachment 695759
@TnKen
What powder are you using and charge weight and projectiles.
@Rick HOlbert is the 358 win guru. He loads a 225gn Woodleigh rnsp to a bit over 2,500fps with win748. This load proved detestating on his recent trip to Namibia but he was a bit miffed he didn't receive a projectile as the were all thru and thru even on a big Sable.
Bob
 
@TnKen
What powder are you using and charge weight and projectiles.
@Rick HOlbert is the 358 win guru. He loads a 225gn Woodleigh rnsp to a bit over 2,500fps with win748. This load proved detestating on his recent trip to Namibia but he was a bit miffed he didn't receive a projectile as the were all thru and thru even on a big Sable.
Bob
225 sierras and Tac powder. I have found that 46 grains is my max load and getting 2475 FPS with it.
200 grain Hornady with 48 grains gives me around 2600 FPS
Tried Varget as well. It gave me slow speeds and pressure so, I gave up on it.
 
Stars on case head for shotgun shells usually means the hulls are made by Chedite in France. Quality varies. Different brand names use their hulls (e.g. Rio) and some brands reload okay and some not so much. Curious what brand was on your bag?
 
225 sierras and Tac powder. I have found that 46 grains is my max load and getting 2475 FPS with it.
200 grain Hornady with 48 grains gives me around 2600 FPS
Tried Varget as well. It gave me slow speeds and pressure so, I gave up on it.
@TnKen
Different cases have different internal capacities so even if your load is mid range it could be over max in some cases.
You could try changing cases, if you aren't hunting Africa you could get some good quality 308 brass and neck it up in one pass to 358.
As I said @ Rick HOlbert uses win748 without issue. You could also look up the article by Paco Kelly in the 358. A very informative article.
Bob
 
@TnKen
Different cases have different internal capacities so even if your load is mid range it could be over max in some cases.
You could try changing cases, if you aren't hunting Africa you could get some good quality 308 brass and neck it up in one pass to 358.
As I said @ Rick HOlbert uses win748 without issue. You could also look up the article by Paco Kelly in the 358. A very informative article.
Bob
So how can I check case volume? I'm thinking weigh the empty case, fill with water, weigh again, then compute with specific gravity of water? Nope. Density of water is used.
 

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