Ruger hawkeye rear sight swap

professor

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Hello
Im needing to upgrade my Ruger hawkeye 35 whelen rear sight. I have alaskaarms qd scope mount and alaskaarms 6rd floorplate in route. I have the necg ghost rings on other guns. But this one I want a simple rear sight just in case the scope fails. Ruger is a pain to call. The lady said I could not just call in and order their express v notch rear because my particular rifle did not ship with it. I like NECG rear sight inserts. Anybody fit necg rear bases to stock ruger barrels? I will call them and get an answer from them, but thought there were probably much experience here.
Thanks.
Professor Chance in Tyler TX
 
I have never tried is on a ruger. but with the proper end mills and dovetail cutter on a mill it shouldn't be two difficult. If the current rear sight shoots accurately measure it so it is quicker and easier to regulate the NECG once fitted.
 
What kind of rear sight are you wanting? Leaf or peep? Something to attach to base or to barrel? Or does it matter?

I put barrel mounted Winchester Safari Express sights on both my rifles (98 Mauser and Springfield 03A3). A gunsmith can drill and tap the barrel in less than twenty minutes. They are great. These are 1990s version with fully adjustable rear sight that folds flat when not needed. I bought both my sets like new off ebay.
Before the Mauser was blued.
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Springfield 03A3
 
I just want a replacement insert for the factory rear sight base. It has 3/8" dovetail. Im going to call Ruger and see if i can order one of their fixed v rear inserts that come on the Alaskan hawkeye m77s. Rugers fold down rear leaves much to be desired.
 
I just want a replacement insert for the factory rear sight base. It has 3/8" dovetail. Im going to call Ruger and see if i can order one of their fixed v rear inserts that come on the Alaskan hawkeye m77s. Rugers fold down rear leaves much to be desired.
Look in Williams Gunsight Co website. I'm pretty sure they made those sights for Ruger. So you have the African model rear sight base, just missing the leaf? With that base the best you can hope for is a leaf that is adjustable elevation. Looking at images online it appears the Hawkeye African came with nonadjustable rear sight. To adjust the fixed leaf for those you will require file (elevation) and/or sight pusher (windage). You should probably order a sight pusher anyway if you intend to install the leaf yourself. Or if you can find a club with lots of pistol shooters, you should be able to find someone who can loan you a sight pusher.

The fold down typically come with elevation adjustment. However, they usually require a higher front sight ramp.

Williams are great folks to deal with.

Wondering what your front sight looks like?
 
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Not missing. Just want to replace. The ruger rear inserts push in and out with ease. Held in my a screw. Probably be pretty easy to lose. Front sight is standard ruger barrel band. I can easily swap the front inserts.
The idea to open the rear base is intriguing option.
Look in Williams Gunsight Co website. I'm pretty sure they made those sights for Ruger. So you have the African model rear sight base, just missing the leaf? With that base the best you can hope for is a leaf that is adjustable elevation. Looking at images online it appears the Hawkeye African came with nonadjustable rear sight. To adjust the fixed leaf for those you will require file (elevation) and/or sight pusher (windage). You should probably order a sight pusher anyway if you intend to install the leaf yourself.

The fold down typically come with elevation adjustment. However, they usually require a higher front sight ramp.

Williams are great folks to deal with.

Wondering what your front sight looks like?
 
Is your base screwed on or soldered on? The screw will be underneath the sliding leaf. If it is screwed on, then no problem switching to either New England Custom Gun or Williams bases and leafs. However, I don't think NECG offers the leaf for their bases in fold down. The basic "classic" NECG base is $62. That would be for one non-folding leaf. They do make express multi-leaf sight bases but I believe they are sweat on (soldered).

When ordering a new base, caliper your barrel thickness at the sight location and select from options available.
 
Is your base screwed on or soldered on? The screw will be underneath the sliding leaf. If it is screwed on, then no problem switching to either New England Custom Gun or Williams bases and leafs. However, I don't think NECG offers the leaf for their bases in fold down. The basic "classic" NECG base is $62. That would be for one non-folding leaf. They do make express multi-leaf sight bases but I believe they are sweat on (soldered).

When ordering a new base, caliper your barrel thickness at the sight location and select from options available.
The ruger rear bases have 2 screws. Im not sure of the thread pitch. The NECG classic base has one screw. It might work.
 
The ruger rear bases have 2 screws. Im not sure of the thread pitch. The NECG classic base has one screw. It might work.
Two screws but if I'm correct, one is to attach the base to the barrel and the other screw is for windage adjustment (i.e. holding the sliding leaf in place)? If you have a screw under the leaf slot, that is to attach base to barrel. You're saying one screw holds the leaf slide, i.e. windage adjustment. That screw should not go into the barrel. If you look at the photo of my rifle's express sight, you will see one screw in the base for windage adjustment. Second screw attaching base to barrel is hidden underneath the leaf.

Or does your sight base have three screws total?

Williams base also has two screws but only one attaches to barrel. I'll have another look at NECG.
 

Attachments

I called NECG this afternoon. Their masterpiece base will work. Only uses one screw but would cover the other. The masterpiece base can only use the insert it comes with because its more adjustable than the standard model. Problem now is that I broke t10 torx bit off in the 2nd screw trying to remove it. I may have to leave it be or decide if I want to attempt grinding a notch in the screw. Would be tough without damaging the ruger base.
 
I called NECG this afternoon. Their masterpiece base will work. Only uses one screw but would cover the other. The masterpiece base can only use the insert it comes with because its more adjustable than the standard model. Problem now is that I broke t10 torx bit off in the 2nd screw trying to remove it. I may have to leave it be or decide if I want to attempt grinding a notch in the screw. Would be tough without damaging the ruger base.
Gawdam Loktite! The used barrel I put on my Springfield came with a screw broken off for front sight. I had already purchased the drill and threading taps (tapered and blunt) to install the rear sight so first thought was just drill and tap a new hole close to the plugged one and let the sight ramp cover it up. I would have to drill a second hole for new two-screw front ramp in any event. But before I resorted to a flock of holes in the end of my barrel, I went to the tool place and bought a size small set of retrievers. These are long thin cone shaped self threading bits threaded backwards. Drill a hole in the center of broken stud (or as close to center as possible), then start threading the retriever into hole. Because it's tapered, it will grip as it goes into the hole. Be careful to not force the issue. If the retriever breaks off, you're screwed. They are hardened steel. You won't drill it out. Before applying pressure, heat the area well with a torch and spray penetrating oil on it. Heat the barrel again and gently apply pressure screwing retriever counterclockwise. I managed to get my broken screw to come out. Surpringly easily. Anyway, I would give it a shot. Preferable to attempt this with a drill press. Oil liberally with 3-in-1 machine oil as you drill into broken screw. Take it slow. Don't want to break off that skinny little drill. If the action can be stabilized in a drill press, that would be best.

Whenever removing bases or sights always heat up the action or barrel before applying pressure to screwdriver. That will release Loktite. I don't use the shit. Not on guns. But sometimes I think I must be the only person who doesn't use it on guns.

PS: Best to flatten the top of broken off screw before attempting to drill a hole for retriever. Otherwise the drill will try to wander. Use a sheet rock screw as a punch to make a slight impression in broken off screw cap to help keep your drill centered. Those screws have a fine hard tip and flat head for tapping with hammer.

PPS: You may need to buy a small tap handle for the retriever. Guy at the tool place should be able to help you. I used vicegrips but wouldn't advise it.
 
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You really don't have anything to worry about in any event. Apparently you only need one screw hole in the barrel for NECG deluxe rear sight and it is adjustable all ways. So you will easily be able to raise or lower the leaf enough to compensate for just about any location on the barrel's tapered contour. Even if you did run out of adjustment, you could always change the height of front bead. Does their sight come blued?
 
Sorry, I didn't read your post carefully. The bit broke off in the screw head, not the screw in the barrel. Definitely try to retrieve it. The retriever will allow you to get a hold of broken bit. Once it's gripping, use pliers to pull it out. The problem is those bits are usually hardened steel. Might not take a drill. Might need several! Be patient. But before that, remove action from stock, then try saturating socket with oil, heat base hot enough to boil the oil, then flip the action upside down and gently tap the side of base with rubber hammer. If you don't have a rubber hammer, tape a rag over head of carpenter hammer. Maybe the bit will fall out. Fingers crossed!!
 
I called NECG this afternoon. Their masterpiece base will work. Only uses one screw but would cover the other. The masterpiece base can only use the insert it comes with because it’s more adjustable than the standard model. Problem now is that I broke t10 torx bit off in the 2nd screw trying to remove it. I may have to leave it be or decide if I want to attempt grinding a notch in the screw. Would be tough without damaging the ruger base.
I know this thread is a little old but for future reference… here’s how I get around Rugers arbitrary customer service rules concerning parts that your rifle didn’t come with. Find a NIB rifle that came factory with the parts you want for sale online with actual photos and get the SN. When you call Ruger they will ask the model and SN give them the info you gathered. I usually just tell them I’m rebarreling my rifle and they don’t ask anymore questions. I’ve gotten several complete sets of sights this way , and they’re pretty cheap I’ll add. I think a complete banded front sight and rear base with all the plungers screws and inserts is only about $85 with shipping.
 
A couple suggestions. If you can drill the head off the screw that is tight that could work, then lift the base off over the screw shank. It will be harder to drill the head off though if the broken piece of torx bit is still in the screw head. Generally though, a torx or allen screw is easy to drill out, removing the head because the drill bit already has a centered hole to start in. You do not need a drill bit the full diameter of the head, just a bit that is larger than the screw shank.

I replaced the rear sight base on my Zastava mauser with a NECG rear sight base. The factory base had two screws, as you mentioned the NECG rear base attaches with one screw. What I did, and it is most likely overkill, is used two screws to attach the NECG base. The second screw I cut the head off, threaded the shank in the tapped hole in barrel, and drilled a blind hole from the bottom of the base for the second screw. I filled the blind hole in base with a good epoxy, then set it on the screw shank, before tightening the first screw through the hole in NECG base. So my rear base is held on by two screws, one which is conventional with a head, and the second headless but with threaded shank set in epoxy in the blind hole in base. That sucker is not coming off without heat and a lot of effort, and that's the way I want it. I have no plans of ever going back to the factory sight.

EDIT: Just saw this is an older thread. Hope you already got it figured out.
 
Have you thought about one of the NECG ghost ring rear sights that fit the rear scope mount base?
 
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