Removing scopes for travel

[Ontario Hunter]

Warne QD rings are about $80 + bases. They hold zero every bit as well as the ultra pricey rings. Zero is zero. I have not been able to find them in anything but matte finish though at one time they were apparently available in glossy blued. Not a big deal for me as both scopes are now also matte finish. These days it's getting hard to find scopes that are not matte, thanks to the black gun and creakoat crowd.

 

[rookhawk]

Warne QD rings are about $80 + bases. They hold zero every bit as well as the ultra pricey rings. Zero is zero. I have not been able to find them in anything but matte finish though at one time they were apparently available in glossy blued. Not a big deal for me as both scopes are now also matte finish. These days it's getting hard to find scopes that are not matte, thanks to the black gun and creakoat crowd.

They are not of the same quality as the more expensive rings. They are a decent $80 ring. I wouldn't put them on a $700-$4000 scope. Talley and EAW are a better product. Talley's with QD levers run about $135. EAWs run about $900 installed.

They do slop around a bit if you're using their hybrid weaver/picattiney model, but that's what you get for $80 in a mass-market product.

 

[Philip Glass]

I have seen several people on her mention removing their scopes for the trip over. Do you use QD mounts or do you take a torque wrench and just reinstall the standard mount?

I can get two un-scoped rifles in one of my current gun cases, but would have to buy a new case otherwise.

New Pelican V800 with custom foam is $600.
Larue QD rings are $350/pair.
Custom foam for my current case is $110.

Get the Pelican 1750 Two rifle case and all will be well! Messing with scopes on most rifles is just a bad idea. You may have zeroing issues and unnecessary hassles in the airports. $344 and problem solved:

https://www.amazon.com/Pelican-Protector-1750-Long-Case/dp/B0BG17V3W9?th=1

 

[Ontario Hunter]

They are not of the same quality as the more expensive rings. They are a decent $80 ring. I wouldn't put them on a $700-$4000 scope. Talley and EAW are a better product. Talley's with QD levers run about $135. EAWs run about $900 installed.

They do slop around a bit if you're using their hybrid weaver/picattiney model, but that's what you get for $80 in a mass-market product.

You are not wrong. However, slop is easily remedied if Warne rings are installed as follows. Seat the rear ring at the back of the rail slot and tighten the lever and tube clamping screws (in that order). Loosen lever and screws for forward ring, slide it forward till the ring bottoms against the front of its rail slot, and tighten the lever and tube screws. The scope is thus compelled to reattach in exactly the same spot on the base(s) every time. This is, however, not the prescribed method in Warne instructions which say the scope should simply be pushed forward in the rail/bases slots before tightening the levers when reattaching the scope. Phoned them and suggested they change the instructions but was blown off. Their method could conceivably result in loss of zero. Unless the rail/bases are perfectly aligned with the bore both vertically and laterally (which is pretty much impossible), the alignment of scope can/will change if the position of rings in the slots changes (forward or back). Just need to position the rings on the scope tube so position on the base(s) cannot change ( = no potential slop).

I suspect Warne bases may be made with slots that fit their rings exactly. Anyone have experience with them?

I use one piece bases so no need to lap the rings. Again, zero is zero.

 

[rookhawk]

You are not wrong. However, slop is easily remedied if Warne rings are installed as follows. Seat the rear ring at the back of the rail slot and tighten the lever and tube clamping screws (in that order). Loosen lever and screws for forward ring, slide it forward till the ring bottoms against the front of its rail slot, and tighten the lever and tube screws. The scope is thus compelled to reattach in exactly the same spot on the base(s) every time. This is, however, not the prescribed method in Warne instructions which say the scope should simply be pushed forward in the rail/bases slots before tightening the levers when reattaching the scope. Phoned them and suggested they change the instructions but was blown off. Their method could conceivably result in loss of zero. Unless the rail/bases are perfectly aligned with the bore both vertically and laterally (which is pretty much impossible), the alignment of scope can/will change if the position of rings in the slots changes (forward or back). Just need to position the rings on the scope tube so position on the base(s) cannot change ( = no potential slop).

I suspect Warne bases may be made with slots that fit their rings exactly. Anyone have experience with them?

I use one piece bases so no need to lap the rings. Again, zero is zero.

I have not tried Warne bases. My experience with them is the rings that work directly with CZs, their Ruger #1 offering, and the weaver/pic combo style I've used on crossbows.

I am aware of your solution, moving rings opposing directions to create minimal play between them. It isn't an ideal solution, its introducing stress because the back of the scope is being pushed forward under recoil and it has no forward support.

To avoid these problems, I just pay the piper and go with Talleys. $135 for QD w/ levers, their bases are excellent and around $26. You're paying a little bit more, but they are a better product. They also offer a vintage style ring that uses one screw for that european look, and their magnum style that uses two screws per side.

I know you're a frugal hunter, but I do believe you'd find satisfaction spending the extra $55 for Talleys. The next better ring than the Talleys is in that $500-$600 price point, a big leap. (and that's an EAW assuming you can design/build/install them yourself, most people cannot)

 

[Papa72]

Might add Alaska Arms QD rings for Rugers to the quality list. Pricey at $170+ but a very solid system.

 

[mark-hunter]

Even on rifles I own that have no iron sights, I still use QD rings 100% of the time.

Of course: You can then attach or change - back up scope, other scope for other use, like all around, or wide angle etc, or red dot.

 

[Bandera]

Going through the gun case thing right now.
Last trip I used a Eylar brand case. No issues with case, it held up well.
I am considering the Eylar with the Ragar foam system.

I am taking a Ruger this trip. I will remove the scope and remount it torquing the bases to spec. The trial run of this showed no change in zero. The Real Avid Smart Torque or Fix It Sticks are a great addition to your gear.

 

[BeeMaa]

I have seen several people on her mention removing their scopes for the trip over. Do you use QD mounts or do you take a torque wrench and just reinstall the standard mount?

I can get two un-scoped rifles in one of my current gun cases, but would have to buy a new case otherwise.

New Pelican V800 with custom foam is $600.
Larue QD rings are $350/pair.
Custom foam for my current case is $110.

It depends on the rifle and scope combo you are taking. You could take just one rifle (like a 375H&H) and remove the barreled action from the stock to fit it in a Pelican 1700 sized case. This would probably leave you with enough room for small pockets to store your sling and knife. For two full rifles without QD mounts, you are stuck with the Pelican 1750 sized case.

Check out GunFoam.com for full custom foam & case combos that won't break the bank.

Personally, I prefer leaving the optics in the rifle case, but they are also QD mounts that will return to zero. I also prefer taking only one rifle and traveling light. I've done several trips with a Pelican 1750 and it's like carrying around a boat anchor. I'm currently using a GF-4515 (Pelican 1720 size) with custom foam for one rifle, scope and sticks.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I have not tried Warne bases. My experience with them is the rings that work directly with CZs, their Ruger #1 offering, and the weaver/pic combo style I've used on crossbows.

I am aware of your solution, moving rings opposing directions to create minimal play between them. It isn't an ideal solution, its introducing stress because the back of the scope is being pushed forward under recoil and it has no forward support.

To avoid these problems, I just pay the piper and go with Talleys. $135 for QD w/ levers, their bases are excellent and around $26. You're paying a little bit more, but they are a better product. They also offer a vintage style ring that uses one screw for that european look, and their magnum style that uses two screws per side.

I know you're a frugal hunter, but I do believe you'd find satisfaction spending the extra $55 for Talleys. The next better ring than the Talleys is in that $500-$600 price point, a big leap. (and that's an EAW assuming you can design/build/install them yourself, most people cannot)

Yes, the back of the scope receives all of its reinforcement against recoil from the bearing surface of the clamps. And that is a significant bearing surface! If the levers are properly tightened, I am confident there is more than enough support to keep the scope from movement in any direction. I'm quite certain reenforcement against recoil was never an issue. The only potential issue for loss of zero with Warne QD rings was possibly not reattaching the scope in exactly the same spot on the base(s).

I found a discontinued Weaver one-piece base for my 404J 98 Mauser. Because it's two slots were designed for Weaver rings with round bracing/clamping screws, I had to modify the slots slightly to accept Warne rings with square edge bracing bars. The result is an extremely tight "custom" fit. No slop anywhere. The Weaver base is also lower than the aftermarket 1-piece semi-rail I first installed which required the above installation procedure (which I still use for installing scopes with Warne rings on my 30-06).

Oh, I almost forgot the best part ... Weaver base only cost ten bucks.

 

[BeeMaa]

I have not tried Warne bases. My experience with them is the rings that work directly with CZs, their Ruger #1 offering, and the weaver/pic combo style I've used on crossbows.

I am aware of your solution, moving rings opposing directions to create minimal play between them. It isn't an ideal solution, its introducing stress because the back of the scope is being pushed forward under recoil and it has no forward support.

To avoid these problems, I just pay the piper and go with Talleys. $135 for QD w/ levers, their bases are excellent and around $26. You're paying a little bit more, but they are a better product. They also offer a vintage style ring that uses one screw for that european look, and their magnum style that uses two screws per side.

I know you're a frugal hunter, but I do believe you'd find satisfaction spending the extra $55 for Talleys. The next better ring than the Talleys is in that $500-$600 price point, a big leap. (and that's an EAW assuming you can design/build/install them yourself, most people cannot)

Even better...scopes with integral rail. No worries about having to level it and setting the eye relief is a snap. Plus, it eliminates the recoil stresses created by (possibly) installing them incorrectly.