Reloading neck sizing vs crimping

[Pole Pole]

To increase neck tension instead of crimping use a neck sizer without the expander plug. This could be done by decapping then use a neck sizing die only (without expander plug) to neck size again. Boat tail bullets will seat but flat base may be an issue to get started.

Would this cause pressure issues?

Your thoughts, thanks

 

[375er]

What caliber(s) are you loading? Most standard calibers i.e. 30-06, etc never bother to crimp because I have never had a bullet set back problem in the magazine. Magnums can be a different story.
My thought on neck sizing without an expander ball is you will run the risk of wrinkling cases.

 

[Pole Pole]

264 win mag. Did not wrinkle. I don’t crimp either. Just kind of a “wondering what if” situation. Got me to thinking when I was pulling bullets

 

[Joker12]

To increase neck tension instead of crimping use a neck sizer without the expander plug. This could be done by decapping then use a neck sizing die only (without expander plug) to neck size again. Boat tail bullets will seat but flat base may be an issue to get started.

Would this cause pressure issues?

Your thoughts, thanks

Why go to all that when the Lee FCD does such A splendid job for so little effort and cost.

 

[Pole Pole]

Does the Lee FCD require a crimping grooves? May someone would want to seat a bullet other than at the groove, if required.

 

[375er]

Does the Lee FCD require a crimping grooves? May someone would want to seat a bullet other than at the groove, if required.

Works well without grooves.

 

[Doug Hamilton]

To increase neck tension instead of crimping use a neck sizer without the expander plug. This could be done by decapping then use a neck sizing die only (without expander plug) to neck size again. Boat tail bullets will seat but flat base may be an issue to get started.

Would this cause pressure issues?

Your thoughts, thanks

On rifle cartridges up to .300 Win Mag, I don't bother to crimp. When I load for my .458 Win Mag though I crimp every round. The bullet weight and recoil lead me to believe that it's a good idea!

 

[shootist~]

To increase neck tension you can also turn down the expander ball using a drill and emery paper. I like to see about 0015".

 

[Pole Pole]

Shootist, in the 264 do you think I would have pressure issues if I didn’t use an expander? I am using Sierra 140 grain boat tail so they will seat without expanding? Also, might this effect accuracy? Thanks for your thoughts

 

[shootist~]

Shootist, in the 264 do you think I would have pressure issues if I didn’t use an expander? I am using Sierra 140 grain boat tail so they will seat without expanding? Also, might this effect accuracy? Thanks for your thoughts

"Probably" not, since I've seen where others do this, but no real experience. I've experimented with not using an expander ball a little, but measuring the O/D of the neck before and after seating a bullet just seemed to me like it was over-working the brass. Measure and see what you are looking at.

It won't hurt to try, IMO - just don't start with a fully maxed out charge. Back off at least a grain or two and work back up - as always - when you change anything.

Another option is called a mandrel die I believe. Does what you want without having to size twice.

Edit to add: If no accuracy improvement, then try something else.

 

[5shot]

You won’t be overworking the brass, because the expander ball pulls through the neck after it has been sized down, then you put a bullet in it and stretch it again. Doing it with just the bullet probably works the brass less, but you get more neck tension. Annealing the cases after firing removes any chance of overworking/cracking the necks.

 

[shootist~]

Very good point @5shot

 

[Luvthunt]

You won’t be overworking the brass, because the expander ball pulls through the neck after it has been sized down, then you put a bullet in it and stretch it again. Doing it with just the bullet probably works the brass less, but you get more neck tension. Annealing the cases after firing removes any chance of overworking/cracking the necks.

Inside neck dry lube helps in seating bullet without expanding.

 

[Rule 303]

The thing is bullets not only can be pushed back into the case but also be drawn out. Bit like a scope, they can work forward due to weight. So heavy for calibre bullets above 30 cal I crimp with a Lee Factory Crimp Die and with these you, as said above, do not need a canular to crimp into.

 

[Krink783]

FL size the range brass as it was not fired in your gun.
From there on out, you can neck size only
I trim off .010 from Factory max length, but that is just me

Annealing every 2-3 firings

 

[Joker12]

The thing is bullets not only can be pushed back into the case but also be drawn out. Bit like a scope, they can work forward due to weight. So heavy for calibre bullets above 30 cal I crimp with a Lee Factory Crimp Die and with these you, as said above, do not need a canular to crimp into.

That is exactly what happened with the 338WM ammo that I took to SA several years ago. They were very carefully loaded with 250gr Partitions but not crimped and some moved in, some moved out but none could be trusted. I switched to my old reliable '06 to finish the trip. I now crimp with the Lee FCD. Why not make your hunting ammo as reliable as as you can.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

To increase neck tension instead of crimping use a neck sizer without the expander plug. This could be done by decapping then use a neck sizing die only (without expander plug) to neck size again. Boat tail bullets will seat but flat base may be an issue to get started.

Would this cause pressure issues?

Your thoughts, thanks

@Pole Pole
With my 303brit some projectiles just fall into the case after fls. To solve this I just run them into a 308 Nek die and then seat the bullets. Never had a problem with increased pressure that I could tell
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

"Probably" not, since I've seen where others do this, but no real experience. I've experimented with not using an expander ball a little, but measuring the O/D of the neck before and after seating a bullet just seemed to me like it was over-working the brass. Measure and see what you are looking at.

It won't hurt to try, IMO - just don't start with a fully maxed out charge. Back off at least a grain or two and work back up - as always - when you change anything.

Another option is called a mandrel die I believe. Does what you want without having to size twice.

Edit to add: If no accuracy improvement, then try something else.

@shootist~
That's why Redding make bushing dies so you can change the bush to get the tension you want
The benchrest boys use them a lot.
Bob

 

[shootist~]

@shootist~
That's why Redding make bushing dies so you can change the bush to get the tension you want
The benchrest boys use them a lot.
Bob

Good point Bob. I use Redding Bushing dies for a couple of calibers, including the 30-06 Tikka I took on my plains game hunt. They still use an expander ball but the bushings allow you to tweak the neck tension and to compensate for different brass thickness.

For example, I use a .332 bushing for Lapua brass and get .0025" neck tension with the 180 gr A-Frane hunting load. (Once fired brass.) I don't crimp and like to err on the safe side with hunting loads.

For Remington brass and my 150 gr Hornady FMJ-BT practice load I use a .331 bushing and get .002" neck tension. (Neck tension being the change in measured neck OD before and after seating bullet.)

 

[buffybr]

The only cartridges that I crimp are the full power loads for my .357 and .44 magnum pistols.

I've never had a problem, so I don't crimp any of my rifle cartridges, including loads for my 7 mm RM, .300 Wby, and .375 RUM that pushes 300 gr bullets out at 2900 fps.

I use Lee collet neck size dies for most of my rifle cartridges of .300 Wby and smaller.

Before I got those Lee collet dies, I only partially full length sized brass fired in my rifles by placing a 0.029" spacer under my full length sizer dies.