RCBS deprimer pin...and Bertram brass

SkullKeeper

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I have a set of RCBS dies for the 318 WR and 318 WR Bertram brass ... the depriming pin won’t fit through the brass flash hole (larger diameter that the flash hole) ... does RCBS make a thinner depriming pin to replace the standard size ??
 
The pin for small rifle/pistol primers should work. The problem would be that the spindle for the 318 expander button may be for large primers so you may need to squeeze it together a bit so that the pin doesn't just fall out.
 
I had exactly the same problem with my .318 Bertram Brass. The flashole sizes are different from case to case, a frustration but beggars can't be choosers. But a quality problem at Bertram. I end up using my pin from my RCBS 9,3x62 dies. Worked on most, but not all cases. Had to trim a pin down with sandpaper. With my new brass I open up the flashole from the start
 
I had exactly the same problem with my .318 Bertram Brass. The flashole sizes are different from case to case, a frustration but beggars can't be choosers. But a quality problem at Bertram. I end up using my pin from my RCBS 9,3x62 dies. Worked on most, but not all cases. Had to trim a pin down with sandpaper. With my new brass I open up the flashole from the start
Do you use a deburring tool to open it up or something else ?
 
I had exactly the same problem with my .318 Bertram Brass. The flashole sizes are different from case to case, a frustration but beggars can't be choosers. But a quality problem at Bertram. I end up using my pin from my RCBS 9,3x62 dies. Worked on most, but not all cases. Had to trim a pin down with sandpaper. With my new brass I open up the flashole from the start
I do the same. Drill out the flash hole
 
I remember back when I started to load my own rifle round and reading about different types of primers and cases. At that time there were popular military rounds that were primed with Berdan primers. To get them out the books suggest that you get a wooden dowel the same diameter as the case mouth. You then filled the case with water and placed the wooden dowel into the case mouth and with the base of the case sitting on something solid to hit the dowel with a hammer, those primers would pop right out, it was messy but it worked.
 
Lyman flash hole deburring and uniforming tool. Each case when new- then done.

IMG_4212.JPG
 
I have a set of RCBS dies for the 318 WR and 318 WR Bertram brass ... the depriming pin won’t fit through the brass flash hole (larger diameter that the flash hole) ... does RCBS make a thinner depriming pin to replace the standard size ??
@SkullKeeper
I bought some 25/303 brass made by Bertram. Worst brass I have ever used. The rims where to small for the extractor so I had to knock the cases out with a cleaning rod. Every case I tried to fireform split from shoulder to Web. I gave up after 3 shots.
Rang Bruce Bertram and he told me to measure the cases and they were all over the place. His reply was they are all within spec.
Never had a problem with Hornady or Remington brass.
Have never bought Bertram brass again and gave what I had to another shooter for free. He got 2 reloads out of them and said they were rubbish.
Just my opinion which ain't worth much.
Bob
 
Another option is to buy a Redding dedicated decapping die with the small pin.
 
@SkullKeeper
I bought some 25/303 brass made by Bertram. Worst brass I have ever used. The rims where to small for the extractor so I had to knock the cases out with a cleaning rod. Every case I tried to fireform split from shoulder to Web. I gave up after 3 shots.
Rang Bruce Bertram and he told me to measure the cases and they were all over the place. His reply was they are all within spec.
Never had a problem with Hornady or Remington brass.
Have never bought Bertram brass again and gave what I had to another shooter for free. He got 2 reloads out of them and said they were rubbish.
Just my opinion which ain't worth much.
Bob
I hope I won’t have that problem
 
Yah, I've always heard and read of the problems with Bertram brass. But, I guess I've been lucky in that all the Bertram brass I've used has been for ammo for old antiques and many of those old guns can not be considered tight on specs in the first place :):).

Norma, Winchester, Jamison, Lapua, Remington and Hornady brass have generally been good, IMO, but any lot of any brand can have issues. I remember a special run of Winchester brass in 348 Win was horrible with internal sprue tabs (hanging chads) in over half the primer flash holes. The standard for most reloaders, where they make the caliber, is Lapua. And others used to consider Federal match the standard and the best- a reputation I could never confirm by measurement or performance. The most consistent lots of any brand I ever measured however were made by Norma. The easiest fix for correcting inconsistent flash holes and internal, hanging chad sprues is the simple, one time use of the Lyman flash hole tool. In more recent years, I have settled on Remington brass as the best compromise for consistency and availability. Unfortunately, while their brass seems pretty good their bullets generally leave something to be desired.

Mil-surp match brass has always been recommended by many. But just because it is labeled "match" doesn't necessarily translate to the best. Match in the military vernacular simply means "the same". That does not necessarily mean the highest quality manufactured to some standard of specs. Some "match" brass I've used have a high percentage of the flash holes punched way off center. :) And after using a flash hole tool on Bertram and loading it in low pressure antique ammo, I haven't had any problems with it. Plus it may simply be the only game in town for certain old/obsolete calibers. :)
 
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Sounds like you MIGHT want to run all the brass trough your rifle to assure function before you invest more time and money. Just a thought.

PS" I prefer RWS and Norma to all other brass, but doubt that they make brass for the .318 WR.
 

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Hi Jon,
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