QD rings you like for a .375

I wouldn’t suggest a one piece rail for a DG rifle. Also not as clean looking.
Interesting, hmm.
It works well on my 458 B&M. Solid as granite on my high recoil gun. No ejection issues.
Care to kindly elaborate?
 
Hmmm… my Talley bases and low rings are very low. Almost too low. Perhaps you got something labeled wrong?View attachment 684028
What are you using as a reference for “too low”? Unless you have a very full face, it’s not the ability to get a scope as low as possible so one does not have to raise one’s head up off the comb of the stock. When Im talking low I’m talking about the ability to get one’s face as low as possible onto the stock. I’m going to guess your objective bell is 40+ mm, which should be about a medium of anyone else’s rings.

If you put a smaller objective, or especially a straight tubed scope, those low Talleys are going to leave a huge gap over the barrel.
 
Interesting, hmm.
It works well on my 458 B&M. Solid as granite on my high recoil gun. No ejection issues.
Care to kindly elaborate?
Difficult to load magazine in a hurry on some DG rifles and not the classic African look but to each his own. Didn’t mean to offend.
 
What are you using as a reference for “too low”? Unless you have a very full face, it’s not the ability to get a scope as low as possible so one does not have to raise one’s head up off the comb of the stock. When Im talking low I’m talking about the ability to get one’s face as low as possible onto the stock. I’m going to guess your objective bell is 40+ mm, which should be about a medium of anyone else’s rings.

If you put a smaller objective, or especially a straight tubed scope, those low Talleys are going to leave a huge gap over the barrel.
Yes I’m very aware of proper cheek weld. The scope in the picture is a Leupold VX6 2-12x 42mm. I always go with the low rings. Not a big deal but cannot get scope covers on the front objective lens because it is nearly touching the barrel.

I have several straight tubed DG scopes in low Talley rings and cheek weld is perfect and low. I don’t know why you are saying that Talley low rings are higher than others.
 
Yes I’m very aware of proper cheek weld. The scope in the picture is a Leupold VX6 2-12x 42mm. I always go with the low rings. Not a big deal but cannot get scope covers on the front objective lens because it is nearly touching the barrel.

I have several straight tubed DG scopes in low Talley rings and cheek weld is perfect and low. I don’t know why you are saying that Talley low rings are higher than others.
Place a Talley Low QD ring beside a Low Leupold, or Low Weaver, or just about a Low anything else, and you’ll see how high a Talley QD Low really is.
 
On my .375 H&H the Recknagel swing mounts cant be any lower due to the bolt handle. Still have a firm cheekweld thought, probably because of the high comb.

20250422_123955.jpg
 
Difficult to load magazine in a hurry on some DG rifles and not the classic African look but to each his own. Didn’t mean to offend.
No offense taken, thanks for the advice, that’s why we’re here. I will take that in consideration. I think it’s in fact great advice. Thank you.
 
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I’ll echo Scott. A rail is great for some rifles, just not a DG bolt action. A PH friend commented on both the rifles we took asking why I hadn’t used them on PG setups. I laughingly told him I needed access to put in more “bullets”. He be proceeded to agree and relate his issues with the target rifles with full rails and chassis’s showing up on the savanna.
 
I will say that claw mounts would be the best option, although for some reason the OP ruled them out. Classy, sturdy, easy on-off and absolutely repeatable in terms of zero.

Both Talley and Recknagel are also fantastic options.

I will also say, though, that I have never fully appreciated the need for quick detachable, perhaps with the exception of a true stopping rifle (which the .375 really isn't, as much as I adore the cartridge). Either the rifle is scoped--and the scope stays on--or is used with open sights. I've never known a hunter who took his scope off in the middle of a hunt--or quickly mounted it on an unscoped rifle in the same situation. Modern scopes and modern mounts are also extremely unlikely to fail in the middle of a hunt.

The one other exception I can think of is for travel, whereby the hunter keeps the scope in a separate suitcase or carry-on to make sure it doesn't get lost, stolen or damaged, but even that is a long shot.

I'm sure I'm missing something, so I am very much open to being enlightened and learning something new. :D
 
Rusan pivot mount is also a great. If you can get them in the US. I slightly favor the Recknagel but both work great. I have the Recknagel on my 375 and this one on my 7x64
1000016569.jpg
 
I have used Warne snd Talley with perfect results.

One issue is the height of the bases. You want a clear view of your iron sights when your scope is removed.

In some actions Warne bases are lower. This is true on my Steyr SM 12 and Cl 2 rifles. I’m sure Talleys are lower on some as well.

You just have to try them and see for yourself.
 
I tried several and just didn't have great luck. The best I tried were the Alaskan QD ring but they don't make one for Winchester it seems. I went back to regular rings on my .375. The R8 is the only system I can get to be reliable.
I say try some quality QD rings and see if you have better luck than I did. Just don't get caught in the trap of thinking it is mandatory to have them.
 
Difficult to load magazine in a hurry on some DG rifles and not the classic African look but to each his own. Didn’t mean to offend.
There are several advantages to one-piece scope mounts. They are indeed more rigid than two-piece mounts, especially for high recoiling calibers. Also, with one-piece mounts one doesn't have to worry about rings being out of alignment and requiring lapping, etc. My Warne QD rings are exactly the same and are mounted on a one-piece base that aligns them perfectly ... by necessity. There is almost no chance of the rings being misaligned with the gun it is mounted on.

My experience has been that the impediment to loading is greatly exaggerated ... if the base/rail has a cutout to accommodate.
 
I use Leupold on my 375HH and my 404 Jeff with no problems,
fullsizeoutput_ab1.jpeg
 
I will say that claw mounts would be the best option, although for some reason the OP ruled them out. Classy, sturdy, easy on-off and absolutely repeatable in terms of zero.

Both Talley and Recknagel are also fantastic options.

I will also say, though, that I have never fully appreciated the need for quick detachable, perhaps with the exception of a true stopping rifle (which the .375 really isn't, as much as I adore the cartridge). Either the rifle is scoped--and the scope stays on--or is used with open sights. I've never known a hunter who took his scope off in the middle of a hunt--or quickly mounted it on an unscoped rifle in the same situation. Modern scopes and modern mounts are also extremely unlikely to fail in the middle of a hunt.

The one other exception I can think of is for travel, whereby the hunter keeps the scope in a separate suitcase or carry-on to make sure it doesn't get lost, stolen or damaged, but even that is a long shot.

I'm sure I'm missing something, so I am very much open to being enlightened and learning something new. :D
I take scopes off when I travel with two rifles. I have taken a scope off for following up brown bears and buffalo. Took a red dot sight, a low power scope and had open sights on my CZ550 Lott on my elephant hunt. Shot elephant with red dot and then went oryx hunting with the low power scope on same gun.

I also have two different scopes for my Dakota Traveler barrels in 375 H&H and 458 Lott for obvious reasons.
 

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