Proper setup?

[jeff]

Those same archery shops would also give poor advice to those who want to hunt elk, moose or big bear!

 

[russ_c]

Your setup is good, bud. Practice as much as you can.

Aim small, miss small, right?

You'll be fine.

 

[Britt Beck]

I'd find a new archery shop my friend.

 

[ArmyGrunt]

What do you mean? Sorry not up to speed with all of the forum lingo i.e. "" ":K Moon"

If you look at this thread from your computer browser those things will be moving emojis instead

 

[mrpoindexter]

The guys from your shop sound like they think speed kills.

What everybody else here says and I will reiterate:

Never use mechanical heads in Africa.
Shoot relatively heavy arrows.
Use fixed blade cut on contact broadheads. Two blades only on dangerous game or seriously large animals (like giraffe). If you have sufficient KE/Momentum, a three or four fixed blade BH will also work.

I would also recommend green nocturnals to assist in seeing where the arrow hits. It will also help in finding the pass throughs.

 

[Velo Dog]

Will not be a problem. By the way I ran out of lumber. Shooting paper plates for now so I can afford to go to Africa jk

I have a fairly new setup so I've been trying to get accurate with it. Hitting six inch paper plates at 40 yards on a good day

Six inch plates at 40 yards?
I know you too well to necessarily believe your groups span all the way across the plate.
And if I'm wrong, due to the new, unfamiliar tackle, etc., I'm quite sure you will keep at it until you will soon need individual target spots to avoid striking one arrow with the next.
It's partly because you you live in the woods and can shoot on your property every day.
Plus I remember that you never stop until you get it right, no matter what it is.
I can't hit the ground with an arrow but, I know for a fact you can shoot some stick smart guy and so, you don't fool me at all.

 

[Ratnik]

Stores will always recommend whatever they've got in stock, in this case expanding broadheads. That's why I love forums, because you get unbiased information about what actually works. Walk into a store and they'll try sell you whatever they have on hand, whether it's the best thing for the job or not. If you've done your research as you have then you can resist it, but there are a lot of poor bastards who just come in and trust the store "experts" and walk out with their 350 grain arrows with 10 blade "Super Blood Trail Penetrator Zombie Killer XTREME" mechanical broadheads.

 

[DoubleLunger]

If you look at this thread from your computer browser those things will be moving emojis instead

Ahhh ok lol. Man you'd think I lived in a cave or something lol. Thanks

 

[DoubleLunger]

The guys from your shop sound like they think speed kills.

What everybody else here says and I will reiterate:

Never use mechanical heads in Africa.
Shoot relatively heavy arrows.
Use fixed blade cut on contact broadheads. Two blades only on dangerous game or seriously large animals (like giraffe). If you have sufficient KE/Momentum, a three or four fixed blade BH will also work.

I would also recommend green nocturnals to assist in seeing where the arrow hits. It will also help in finding the pass throughs.

Makes perfect sense to me. As of right now I am planning on using 2 bladed heads for just about everything from warthog to Zebra. Never heard of too much punch for bowhunting.

I am not sure what my KE or FPS is due to not having access to the proper equipment. I suppose I could use one of the online calcs but I question their accuracy.

Thanks

 

[DoubleLunger]

Six inch plates at 40 yards?
I know you too well to necessarily believe your groups span all the way across the plate.
And if I'm wrong, due to the new, unfamiliar tackle, etc., I'm quite sure you will keep at it until you will soon need individual target spots to avoid striking one arrow with the next.
It's partly because you you live in the woods and can shoot on your property every day.
Plus I remember that you never stop until you get it right, no matter what it is.
I can't hit the ground with an arrow but, I know for a fact you can shoot some stick smart guy and so, you don't fool me at all.

Yes but that's on a good day lol. And those plates are 6" wide/tall. Not in diameter.
Usually I get 2 out of three somewhere within the plate and then question the one that either hits the edge or just right outside the plate. Then after that my group gets wider with muscle fatigue etc.

My plan is to continue until I can punch holes in tennis balls at 80 yards. Even if this will never happen I will be more than confident and proficient enough to drop various game at various yards by the time we put our boots in the dirt of Africa.

Keep in mind that though my freezer doesn't go empty every year, most of my bowhunting kills are from 30 yards or less. This longer range archery thing is somewhat new to me. So with my new setup and plenty of practice I should be on spot for Africa.

And you are correct. I won't stop when I'm tired....I'll stop when I'm on top and my goal is complete

 

[DoubleLunger]

Stores will always recommend whatever they've got in stock, in this case expanding broadheads. That's why I love forums, because you get unbiased information about what actually works. Walk into a store and they'll try sell you whatever they have on hand, whether it's the best thing for the job or not. If you've done your research as you have then you can resist it, but there are a lot of poor bastards who just come in and trust the store "experts" and walk out with their 350 grain arrows with 10 blade "Super Blood Trail Penetrator Zombie Killer XTREME" mechanical broadheads.

Because of this I am becoming more interested in learning how to work on my own archery tackle. I would imagine that it doesn't take a college degree. Maybe the proper equipment and some training as well as some experience?
Hmmmm more ideas to try and slip passed the wife

Thanks for the guidance

 

[DoubleLunger]

I'd find a new archery shop my friend.

Thanks man. I would certainly like to but the only issue is having to drive hours to get to any others. In a perfect world I would have my own shop in my garage

 

[DoubleLunger]

Your setup is good, bud. Practice as much as you can.

Aim small, miss small, right?

You'll be fine.

Amen brother!

 

[DoubleLunger]

Those same archery shops would also give poor advice to those who want to hunt elk, moose or big bear!

I agree. When he mentioned the heavier arrow with a lighter expandable broadhead for Africa my first thought was....."check please!" Quote from the hit movie Dumb and Dumber

 

[Jaws]

Hi Double Lunger,

Mind if I ask your fps with that set-up?

Speed is good, but it ain't everything.

I took most of those species with a Mission Riot IBO of 310fps. when I started. Range from 20-30m.
My setup was 29" dl at 70lb. (unfortunately I did not chrony at the time)
Easton Axis Carbon N-fused 30" with a 150 Slick trick BH. (still my favourite for African PG )
my arrow setup is around the 500-525gn mark & I got complete pass-through on all but the BWB with a q away & warthog I spined.
I've stepped up with a Matthews monster at 73lb now, it is "old" but dead in my hand. I will be taking on sable later this year with the same arrow set-up. 290 ish fps which is more than enough.

Note shot placement is everything. African PG vitals are a litter more forward in the chest cavity. It is seldom that you will get a perfect broad shot.
I found the majority of well used game paths tend to enter the clearing to the bait / waterhole directly opposite the hide, most animals will head in a semi straight line. be patient, after eating / drinking they tend to move around & linger a little, granting the better shot if they are not spooked, nervous or aware of you. I do a recce of the Area I tend to hunt a day before or so to give me an idea of activity to expect.
Suggest you study hard on shot placement & make sure you can hit the mark out to 35M. Most shots from a hide will be within that range anyway.
I prefer to aim for the high heart shot, destroy the arteries and damage lungs. Avoid full frontal or far quartering on the heavier boned animals. they are tough!

Warthog, Impala, duiker & steenbok are prone to string jump, hell I even had an alert blesbuck dip my shot.
Pay attention to the animal's behavior, don't risk a shot at a nervous animal or one that is aware / looking at you. wait for it to relax a little.

Two blade setups can be tricky to get right, make sure your bow set-up is 100% if you still battle to get good groupings, spin those arrows to see if the bh's are perfectly aligned. I normally weigh my BH's & batch them accordingly...same for the arrows.
Also pay attention to a good silencing package. Fortunately the Mathews bows are fairly quiet normally, the heavier arrow setup will also help but check your dropdown arrow rest for contact on the rizer.

It is about what I can think of now in terms of advice, but to answer your question, your arrow weight seems fine to me.

 

[russ_c]

@DoubleLunger: who are you hunting with this year?

 

[DoubleLunger]

Hi Double Lunger,

Mind if I ask your fps with that set-up?

Speed is good, but it ain't everything.

I took most of those species with a Mission Riot IBO of 310fps. when I started. Range from 20-30m.
My setup was 29" dl at 70lb. (unfortunately I did not chrony at the time)
Easton Axis Carbon N-fused 30" with a 150 Slick trick BH. (still my favourite for African PG )
my arrow setup is around the 500-525gn mark & I got complete pass-through on all but the BWB with a q away & warthog I spined.
I've stepped up with a Matthews monster at 73lb now, it is "old" but dead in my hand. I will be taking on sable later this year with the same arrow set-up. 290 ish fps which is more than enough.

Note shot placement is everything. African PG vitals are a litter more forward in the chest cavity. It is seldom that you will get a perfect broad shot.
I found the majority of well used game paths tend to enter the clearing to the bait / waterhole directly opposite the hide, most animals will head in a semi straight line. be patient, after eating / drinking they tend to move around & linger a little, granting the better shot if they are not spooked, nervous or aware of you. I do a recce of the Area I tend to hunt a day before or so to give me an idea of activity to expect.
Suggest you study hard on shot placement & make sure you can hit the mark out to 35M. Most shots from a hide will be within that range anyway.
I prefer to aim for the high heart shot, destroy the arteries and damage lungs. Avoid full frontal or far quartering on the heavier boned animals. they are tough!

Warthog, Impala, duiker & steenbok are prone to string jump, hell I even had an alert blesbuck dip my shot.
Pay attention to the animal's behavior, don't risk a shot at a nervous animal or one that is aware / looking at you. wait for it to relax a little.

Two blade setups can be tricky to get right, make sure your bow set-up is 100% if you still battle to get good groupings, spin those arrows to see if the bh's are perfectly aligned. I normally weigh my BH's & batch them accordingly...same for the arrows.
Also pay attention to a good silencing package. Fortunately the Mathews bows are fairly quiet normally, the heavier arrow setup will also help but check your dropdown arrow rest for contact on the rizer.

It is about what I can think of now in terms of advice, but to answer your question, your arrow weight seems fine to me.

Thank you for all of the great information. Currently I am not certain of my fps as I do not have access to a chrony either. The bow manufacturer IBO is 328 fps. The bow is set to 70 pounds, 27.5" draw, and shooting a 582 gr arrow

 

[DoubleLunger]

@DoubleLunger: who are you hunting with this year?

https://www.khomas-highland-hunting.com/

Seems to have a great reputation and got me a good deal. Will be doing a combination of spot and stalk as well as from a hide.

 

[Jaws]

DoubleLunger

My estimation would be around 210fps. still sufficient considering traditional bows are also capable of kills & spitting arrows slower than that.
I would be weary of too long shots though, but thats just me.

Through my trial & errors I ended up investing towards the best of both worlds in terms of arrow weight, speed & accuracy.
#1 9.5- 10.5gpi small diameter arrows with 3" stiff fletching to improve penetration & flight resistance.
#2 The strongest & consistent weight 4 blade BH I could find for flight accuracy which happened to be the ST for me.

I can hit a 2.5x2.5" target at 60M with that setup if I wear my glasses.

 

[DoubleLunger]

DoubleLunger

My estimation would be around 210fps. still sufficient considering traditional bows are also capable of kills & spitting arrows slower than that.
I would be weary of too long shots though, but thats just me.

Through my trial & errors I ended up investing towards the best of both worlds in terms of arrow weight, speed & accuracy.
#1 9.5- 10.5gpi small diameter arrows with 3" stiff fletching to improve penetration & flight resistance.
#2 The strongest & consistent weight 4 blade BH I could find for flight accuracy which happened to be the ST for me.

I can hit a 2.5x2.5" target at 60M with that setup if I wear my glasses.

I typically don't take a shot over 35 yards at whitetail deer. My guidance has been to be accurate at 60m. So my plan is to work my way up to being accurate at 80 yards