New hobby

[nztimb]

If I could come up with more uses other than heat treat and tempering knives, I'd probably spend the money.. but for now I think I am going to continue to limit myself to my forge, propane torch, and toaster oven for all of my "heat" requirements..

If you get a digital themometer and the high temp thermocouple you can play with the gas supply to your forge and regulate the temps for more accurate hardening of your blades. I can hold my forge to +/- a few degrees for the accuracy I need to be able to guarantee my heat treating.

 

[mdwest]

Ill admit to my own ignorance.. I didnt realize there were affordable thermometers that could read up to 2000 degrees Fahrenheit until I just read your post @Von Gruff .. I figured something "industrial" like that would cost tons of money..

Im assuming something like this:

Very High Temperature K-Type Thermometer with Ceramic Insulated Probe Sensor for Kiln, Crucible and Forge up to 2372 °F 1300 °C Model CR-8: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Very High Temperature K-Type Thermometer with Ceramic Insulated Probe Sensor for Kiln, Crucible and Forge up to 2372 °F 1300 °C Model CR-8: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

would do the job just fine? If so, I may order one today.. that would be a huge help in getting heat treatments right..

 

[norfolk shooter]

O1 is some excellent steel... nice choice!

How are you heat treating? I originally was just using a simple propane torch.. but had a buddy weld up a basic forge that is a whole lot more efficient, reliable, and consistent, and speeds the process up significantly..

Ive been thinking about investing in a smaller sized heat treating oven.. but Im not sure its worth the cost to me right now.. knives are only a hobby for me.. I enjoy the process, and like seeing the end results improve.. but an entry quality oven runs about $750 here in the US... and one of any size where you could do larger blades, that is capable of getting to temp in a reasonable amount of time, etc.. is about $1500-$2000...

If I could come up with more uses other than heat treat and tempering knives, I'd probably spend the money.. but for now I think I am going to continue to limit myself to my forge, propane torch, and toaster oven for all of my "heat" requirements..

I made a little forge out of some old paint cans and lined it with ceramic insulation material. I then just use a blow lamp gets hot fast. Im in that same boat as you in terms of needs. Nice knife BTW. I need to try a wooden handle. Is the wood you have used stabilised?

 

[norfolk shooter]

The zero edge scandi is one of the better edges for a hard use knife.

Im not familiar with that grind mate? Ill take a better pic of the grind on the blades i have done and post in a few moments

 

[nztimb]

Ill admit to my own ignorance.. I didnt realize there were affordable thermometers that could read up to 2000 degrees Fahrenheit until I just read your post @Von Gruff .. I figured something "industrial" like that would cost tons of money..

Im assuming something like this:

Very High Temperature K-Type Thermometer with Ceramic Insulated Probe Sensor for Kiln, Crucible and Forge up to 2372 °F 1300 °C Model CR-8: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Very High Temperature K-Type Thermometer with Ceramic Insulated Probe Sensor for Kiln, Crucible and Forge up to 2372 °F 1300 °C Model CR-8: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

would do the job just fine? If so, I may order one today.. that would be a huge help in getting heat treatments right..

Yes that ius exactly the type and withy a good gas supply and well insulated forge it is easy to controll the heat to exactly what you need.

 

[mdwest]

Is the wood you have used stabilised?

On that particular knife, the answer is "yes" and "no"

I do have the ability to stabilize.. I've got a 5 quart vacuum chamber and a really nice General Electric vacuum pump that does a pretty good job.. I ran a good bit of walnut through the stabilization process last year.. although I have to admit walnut isnt the easiest to stabilize, and I dont think I truly got all of the air out and filled all of the voids all the way through the wood with resin.. my best guess is its only about a 70% good job on that particular piece used on the knife in the pic..

The olive was from an unstabilized 1/4" thick piece I had available.. It just got a basic tung and boiled linseed oil finish..

For me, stabilization has been a bit hit or miss.. I've found some woods like leopardwood, spalted maple, and others stabilize pretty easily.. while other woods like walnut, orange osage and purple heart are really difficult to get right..

My next adventure with wood is going to be trying to introduce dye in the stabilization process.. I've got a buddy that makes knives that has done some pretty incredible handles with spalted and burly maple using all sorts or dyes and colors...

Lately I've mostly been using micarta and G10 for scales.. those materials arent nearly as fancy as some of the really pretty wood options I've got on hand.. but using micarta vs wood certainly simplifies the process a good bit.. (dont have to stabilize.. dont have to hit the oil, etc.. just grind, polish, and youre done..)..

 

[cpr0312]

Very nice! Congrats on the new hobby and hope you continue to make more! Maybe some show up in Dallas??

 

[norfolk shooter]

On that particular knife, the answer is "yes" and "no"

I do have the ability to stabilize.. I've got a 5 quart vacuum chamber and a really nice General Electric vacuum pump that does a pretty good job.. I ran a good bit of walnut through the stabilization process last year.. although I have to admit walnut isnt the easiest to stabilize, and I dont think I truly got all of the air out and filled all of the voids all the way through the wood with resin.. my best guess is its only about a 70% good job on that particular piece used on the knife in the pic..

The olive was from an unstabilized 1/4" thick piece I had available.. It just got a basic tung and boiled linseed oil finish..

For me, stabilization has been a bit hit or miss.. I've found some woods like leopardwood, spalted maple, and others stabilize pretty easily.. while other woods like walnut, orange osage and purple heart are really difficult to get right..

My next adventure with wood is going to be trying to introduce dye in the stabilization process.. I've got a buddy that makes knives that has done some pretty incredible handles with spalted and burly maple using all sorts or dyes and colors...

Lately I've mostly been using micarta and G10 for scales.. those materials arent nearly as fancy as some of the really pretty wood options I've got on hand.. but using micarta vs wood certainly simplifies the process a good bit.. (dont have to stabilize.. dont have to hit the oil, etc.. just grind, polish, and youre done..)..

Bro you have some skills there. I dont have the knowledge or gear to stabilise my own wood (cue laughter). I do think about ordering some from a supplier and giving it a go. Whats the worst that can happen. @Von Gruff for some odd reason i cant seem to upload pic at this moment but the grind is that same as you get on the Mora knives of Sweden but a different angle (30deg 15 on each side).

Very nice! Congrats on the new hobby and hope you continue to make more! Maybe some show up in Dallas??

Who knows. But I might donate one for the AH dinner raffle. By that time I should be OK at making them

 

[norfolk shooter]

Looks like I had to shut the app and re start it.

 

[nztimb]

Looks like I had to shut the app and re start it. View attachment 370672

A zero edge is where the grind goes right to the edge without a secondary bevel so to sharpenm the whole flat of the bevel is done

 

[norfolk shooter]

A zero edge is where the grind goes right to the edge without a secondary bevel so to sharpenm the whole flat of the bevel is done

In that case mate it is a zero edge scandi

 

[norfolk shooter]

Just finished making the sheath time to wet and form for the piano knife

 

[mdwest]

Bro you have some skills there. I dont have the knowledge or gear to stabilise my own wood (cue laughter).

Honestly its a very inexpensive investment in gear.. I think I've got about $50 invested in the vacuum chamber, valves, tubing, etc.. (you can find small 3 and 5 quart chambers on ebay and amazon here in the US for between $30-$60 pretty easily).. and then another $25 in the vacuum pump.. I found it used, but in almost new condition on craigslist..

The "cactus juice" resin that I've used for stabilizing is a little pricey about $90 per gallon).. but you can treat a lot of wood with a gallon.. when you break it down to cost per piece of wood, its really not all that much (it might cost me $1-$2 per set of handles to stabilize)..

The knowledge required is very simple/basic.. you can watch a couple of youtube videos and figure it out very easily.. the key is not to be impatient (run the pump far longer than you think you need to.. and then allow the wood to continue to soak submerged in the cactus juice far longer than you think you need to after you release the vacuum).. and then to property heat the wood (right temp and the right amount of time) once it comes out of the juice..

Honestly its one of the easiest steps or processes in knife building that I have found.. it just takes a good bit of time to do it right (days).. you cant just decide to stabilize some wood for a knife and expect to be ready to go in a few hours..

I found the easiest way for me to do it is to plank out the wood I like at the approximate thickness and length that I normally use for handles (1/4" x 2" x 5" is good for about 90% of what I typically do)... and then just run a large batch (as much as I can fit in the vacuum chamber at a time).. that way I've always got a supply sitting on the shelf ready to go..

 

[mdwest]

Just finished making the sheath time to wet and form for the piano knifeView attachment 370863

The stitching looks really nice, and your cuts are clean as well...

FAR better than anything I've done with leather so far...

 

[norfolk shooter]

I found the easiest way for me to do it is to plank out the wood I like at the approximate thickness and length that I normally use for handles (1/4" x 2" x 5" is good for about 90% of what I typically do)... and then just run a large batch (as much as I can fit in the vacuum chamber at a time).. that way I've always got a supply sitting on the shelf ready to go..

I think a bandsaw might go on the xmas list

 

[mdwest]

lol.. my bandsaw and drill press are the most used power tools in the shop after the grinders.. I couldnt make a decent knife without them..

you being able to build those thress knives to that visible level of quality without using a drill press is a further testament to your skills..

 

[postoak]

Very impressive. On a scandi blade, do you just sharpen one side or both sides?

 

[norfolk shooter]

lol.. my bandsaw and drill press are the most used power tools in the shop after the grinders.. I couldnt make a decent knife without them..

you being able to build those thress knives to that visible level of quality without using a drill press is a further testament to your skills..

I have drill press now. But No1 was made with a standard drill. My big issue is the lack of space. Saying that I have a hunting buddy in the next village who is a cabinet maker I'm sure he has a bandsaw

 

[norfolk shooter]

Very impressive. On a scandi blade, do you just sharpen one side or both sides?

You have to sharpen both sides. I find it the most field friendly grind to just touch up before or during the cleaning process

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Great job. Especially for a first time. I'm impressed.

+1
Bpb