Needing Some Scope Mounting Advice

[Rob404]

I really don't think a 2x10x42 is that far out of line for a 375HH , tell me what ring height You need and I'll see if I have a Burris Z with a Weaver mount laying around, a picture would help

 

[Buckdog]

weaver used to be great in the day, i have old ones that are awesome, not so much anymore, I would suggest that as someone else said with any off the shelf rings I would mount them and lap them, you will be surprised at how much they are out of round and dont line up. It is really easy buy the kit from brownells, you wont be sorry especially with a nice scope. A good custom gun maker usually laps rings. just drop a scope in a set of off the shelf rings and many times you are pushing it down in to bottom out or the top is squezing down as you tighten the screws thats not good lap those rings and she will drop right in with no stress on your optics. I own a firearms shop besides other things so I see lots of things and i have seen burris mount and scope failures including on my own weapon so sorry guys would never put another on my personal firearms, thats just one mans opinion. i will take leupolds and most of the european scopes all day any day and I lap the rings and mag mount the bases aka drill out tap and use bigger screws. please dont try and drill out and tap your gun yourself have a gunsmith do it!!!

 

[uplander01]

Noticed the thread , thought I'd contribute.

Used to mount scopes all day long at retail level, probably mounted over 500 rigs. Not all rings and based are created equal as far as machining. Eliminate that first, try another brand. My advice, Talley, and his QR rings. This will give you easy access to your irons as well. Second, the scope type does not matter big or small, however, I would go with something smaller on a 375. Once you try some Talleys if you are having the same problem, try lapping , the first or second stroke will tell you how "off" your level you are. If its extremely far, make Winchester screw in a different barrel, been selling factory rifles for years, sometimes they just don't get those barrels in as straight as they should. A competent gunsmith could fix that as well but why not make the factory fix their mistake.

Good Luck-

 

[30winmag]

had exactly your same problem on a win 70 supergrade with a leupold it it turned out to be a gun issue not rings or scope took it to a very good gunsmith and he just shimmed the back base done deal. that was many years ago and nary a problem since. way easy fix. and i agree with what someone else said I wouldnt use weaver rings with that scope on a 375 nor burris rings either both POS not befitting such a nice scope! warne, talley, leupold and some of the custom ring and base guys all good. 375 will recoil hard and stress a big scope and the rings and mounts and you want good ones when facing down a buff.

Thanks for the advice! I put it to good use.

 

[30winmag]

weaver used to be great in the day, i have old ones that are awesome, not so much anymore, I would suggest that as someone else said with any off the shelf rings I would mount them and lap them, you will be surprised at how much they are out of round and dont line up. It is really easy buy the kit from brownells, you wont be sorry especially with a nice scope. A good custom gun maker usually laps rings. just drop a scope in a set of off the shelf rings and many times you are pushing it down in to bottom out or the top is squezing down as you tighten the screws thats not good lap those rings and she will drop right in with no stress on your optics. I own a firearms shop besides other things so I see lots of things and i have seen burris mount and scope failures including on my own weapon so sorry guys would never put another on my personal firearms, thats just one mans opinion. i will take leupolds and most of the european scopes all day any day and I lap the rings and mag mount the bases aka drill out tap and use bigger screws. please dont try and drill out and tap your gun yourself have a gunsmith do it!!!

I actually work with a guy who has a kit, it was a great borrow! Thanks for the advice.

 

[30winmag]

No thanks But I can assure you I've done the same many times myself, when it became obvious that a different scope would be a much better fit for a particular rifle. The good news is, when you buy that next .270 or whatever, you will already have a fantastic optic that's a perfect match for it! See, I can rationalize anything.

Gee, how did you know I was buying another .270 before deer season? Now I can buy the optic for my .375 and just swap out. Great minds think alike!

 

[30winmag]

UPDATE: OK I lapped the rings, shimmed the rear base, zeroed the scope and boresighted. On at 25yds in 3 shots, 1.5" high at 100yds with two adjustments, hitting POA at 200. A little over MOA but some load development and practice will cure that. So it looks like the crisis has been averted for the moment, nwt to go hit the reloading bench and range a.k.a. the fun part! Thnks to everybody for all the good advice, I'll be sure to ask if I have any other issues. 4months 10 days and counting!

 

[BRICKBURN]

Great news.

 

[Dwight Beagle]

Glad you got the issue fixed. I currently mount 30 to 40 scopes a week so I'll throw in my two cents. I will only shim a one piece base, front or rear. Shimming a two piece base stresses the scope tube because when you shim one base they are at different heights. Shimming a one piece base keeps the tube on the same plane, but on an up or down angle.

 

[35bore]

I have been away too long (recently back) for what it matters a tactical 20 moa pinnacy one piece rail might get you where you need to be. If stressing the scope may be an issue, just throwing it in there.

 

[Royal27]

Glad you got the issue fixed. I currently mount 30 to 40 scopes a week so I'll throw in my two cents. I will only shim a one piece base, front or rear. Shimming a two piece base stresses the scope tube because when you shim one base they are at different heights. Shimming a one piece base keeps the tube on the same plane, but on an up or down angle.

But lapping the rings would then overcome this issue, correct?

 

[Dwight Beagle]

No.

 

[Royal27]

No.

Issue of height vs. angle of ring?

I don't know the answer, just trying to learn.

 

[35bore]

I have been away too long (recently back) for what it matters a tactical 20 moa pinnacy one piece rail might get you where you need to be. If stressing the scope may be an issue, just throwing it in there.

Sorry, 20moa picatinny scope base. Dang auto correct.

 

[Dwight Beagle]

If you shim the front or rear base of a two piece set, one ring is higher and one ring is lower than the other. The scope tube will be bent slightly when installed. Not much at all, just a tiny bit, but it is still flexed.

If you shim a one piece base, the rings are still the same height in relation to each other so there is no stress on the tube.

I'm trying to think of a better way of explaining this.

 

[Dwight Beagle]

A picatinny base is perfect for shimming since it is one piece. Any one piece base is fine.

 

[35bore]

A picatinny base is perfect for shimming since it is one piece. Any one piece base is fine.

Dwight, just saying you can buy the picatinny with a built in 20moa "tilt" "no shimming " needed.

 

[Dwight Beagle]

Dwight, just saying you can buy the picatinny with a built in 20moa "tilt" "no shimming " needed.

Misunderstood you. You are correct, a 20 MOA base should work if the rifle is shooting too low.

On another note, issues like the OP had are becoming more and more common. The culprit most of the time is sub-par receiver drilling, tapping, and machining. Sometimes it is a mystery. I have a Marlin 336 that wore a Burris Fullfield II 2-7x35 for a number of years. Scope worked great. Now that I can purchase several brands of optics at serious discounts I decided to upgrade to a VX-3 1.75-6x32. When I mounted the scope I didn't have enough windage or elevation. Had to shim the base and go to windage adjustment rings to make it work.