Need help with whitening a Warthog skull

[RichD]

RichD, you have to go back a few steps. My father and brother has a taxidermy and export company in SA so I have seen this a few times. Ontario is correct above.

Look at the skull, all those black on skull is still old rotten blood and the bright yellow is fat. it wasn't properly cleaned. You would need to cook that out before applying anything. Best for white skull is after properly cooked clean, to bleach it,(not tusks), that is the how most skulls get white. But "painting over" the issues will not help. You can do it yourself or for peace of mind take it to local taxidermy

I don't have a pot big enough to hold the skull. I dropped my kudu off at a taxidermist for a shoulder mount so it may make sense to have him finish this skull.

 

[steve white]

I thought I had something to add, but "hush my mouth," you guys are light years ahead in what works!

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I wondered about that, but saw some mounts with that intact and others without. It's attached pretty tight, so I don't want to risk breaking bone.

Attached to nose or jaw? If you can take a pic, I think we can ascertain if it belongs on the skull or just smelly cartridge that should be removed.

 

[double rifle newbie]

You'll need to heat that skull to make the whitening paste work. Helps if the tusks are loose. Remove them if you can. Fortunately, mine were only stuck on with a bit of epoxy around the gum and I worked it loose with paint stripper.

If you can get the tusks off, simmer skull in water with a heavy dose of Dawn detergent and quarter cup of soda ash. Skim off grease as it cooks. Change water if it gets skungy. Don't boil, only simmer just below boiling. Watch for teeth coming loose. Keep pulling the skull out periodically and check for loose teeth. Pull them off if you can and arrange in order on a paper towel to be reattached later. Once you've got as much grease as possible removed, heat up the skull, paint it with your whitening paste, wrap in clear plastic wrap (for sandwiches, etc), and let it set overnight under lights. If possible, set outside wrapped that way on a sunny day. That can really make a difference! Try to keep the paste off the tusks. Don't want those bleached.

Our taxidermy business is almost exclusively skulls and cap mounts these days (and fish). I had to clean up both my warthog skulls.

this is absolutely the way to do it. works with really any european mount.

 

[mark-hunter]

You guys are lucky if you can get 30% peroxide.

I dont complain, but legal requirments on purchasing some chemicals are getting touguer each year. (EU legislature, BS)

Few years ago, I was able without issue to by herbicide for work in my garden, but not any more.
Special course and certification is now required to show in the agriculture shop when purchasing.

For peroxide I must sign a statement in pharmaceutical shop. And not readily available anymore. I must request it a day or two in advance. It is sufficient to declare a trophy preparation as reason to buy, with hunters ID.

My neighbour is collecting various sea life specimens, he collects something he calls "fisherman museum" in his basement. So far very big collection. Sea shells, lobster shells, fish, old fishing tools etc. Some small specific fish specimens he has in jars in formalin. Local newspapers few times made some articles of his collection.

Same procedure for formalin purchase, as well.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I dont complain, but legal requirments on purchasing some chemicals are getting touguer each year. (EU legislature, BS)

Few years ago, I was able without issue to by herbicide for work in my garden, but not any more.
Special course and certification is now required to show in the agriculture shop when purchasing.

For peroxide I must sign a statement in pharmaceutical shop. And not readily available anymore. I must request it a day or two in advance. It is sufficient to declare a trophy preparation as reason to buy, with hunters ID.

My neighbour is collecting various sea life specimens, he collects something he calls "fisherman museum" in his basement. So far very big collection. Sea shells, lobster shells, fish, old fishing tools etc. Some small specific fish specimens he has in jars in formalin. Local newspapers few times made some articles of his collection.

Same procedure for formalin purchase, as well.

Peroxide has apparently been used by terrorists to make bombs. So we in the taxidermy biz are collateral damage. Is what it is I guess. Showing a hunting license to buy peroxide makes a bit of sense, especially in Europe where getting a hunting license is no small feat. We all have to bend over to make it at least harder for these nut jobs to cause havoc. The determined fanatics won't be stopped but controls may help keep fringe copycat nutjobs out of action. Hard for govts to not do something when people are getting blown up in the streets. It's become a shitty world for sure. I remember the good old days when I could take a gun on the plane as long as I left it with the pilot till we landed. Sigh!

 

[fourfive8]

Added tip.

Teeth dry over time and tend to split. For durability… coat teeth in finished skull with a fairly thin clear, slow set epoxy applied with small brush. Fishing rod winding epoxy is excellent for this. Also use this type of epoxy for securing loose teeth. Treat wart hog and hippo “tusks” just like regular teeth. They tend to split over time or may split even before completing the skull treatment.

 

[Rocked and Loaded]

I have avoided harsher bleaching products in favor of hydrogen peroxide. It’s slower but safer.

Degreasing will also reduce/remove yellowing that peroxide can’t remove. It can also be a slow process.

This blog has the best information I’ve seen.

Blog - OddArticulations, LLC

www.oddarticulations.com

 

[Dewald]

Pigs are very creasy critters, as are large cats. I’ve cleaned 100’s of sculls in my life. The only way that works is to soak them in a degreasing detergent, give them a quick boil in detergent, and d then let hem simmer in a hydrogen peroxide solution. We buy them as 50% in 5L bottles for swimming pools in RSA.

I simmer them in a big aluminium pot with a few firebricks in to retain heat and reduce volume. The average pig scull might take 2x250ml 50% hydrogen peroxide. Then clean with a pressure washer and wire brush, and if needed give it another 20 minute simmer to bleach.

Let dry in the sun, stick the molars back in place, fill the tusks with silicone so they do not split and assemble your warthog.

I’ve never found that topical solutions work.

Please note how a silly taxidermist painted this Black Wildebeest, and how poor it looks.

 

[mark-hunter]

Showing a hunting license to buy peroxide makes a bit of sense, especially in Europe where getting a hunting license is no small feat.

Ahhh. not sure what to say.
We have a slack on making hunting license and exam. Not too difficult.

About 2 years ago, we had following problems.
Aging population of hunters (like average age 60 years)
Second problem was private hunting certification schools, of which some allegedly were selling exams.

In order to tackle these two problems national hunting federation made new training program.
They made hunting course online for approximate price 70 eur. (before was 2 months lectures in evening hours with price 400 eur per candidate.

Once the candidate passes online course from home, (very easy - not to mention he could also bring a friend "to help a bit" to pass multiple choice exam, as nobody can check how he is making it from home in a living room) he is then sent to practical fire arms training (few hours on shooting range, in average 10 shots at target per candidate) and after that to oral exam. (how many instructor hours and centerfire cartridges can 70 eur cover? Cca 90-100 USD)
This means, a person without any previous firearm training and experience, could make a license with up to 10 shots fired at range and few hours at keyboard.

So, this boosted number of new "certified" hunters, as basic formula was cheap and easy. This was intention of rule makers in hunting federation.
Quantity above quality

I am not sure about quality of knowledge achieved, and skill achieved in a country where most popular way of hunting is driven hunt - which means firearm safety and firearm handling skills must be strictly observed. So, we will see how new generation handles in the future.

A friends of mine who passed this type of certification and training, I am always giving them advice to join first a shooting club, to learn firearm handling properly, only then to join hunting club to start hunting when they feel confident.

On the other hand, Germany, UK, Netherland have very strict rules for hunting exam.

 

[John Telford]

Hydrogen peroxide- neat! It undiluted.

 

[Hillcountry63]

I have a Buck Boiler which uses a low powered electrical current that warms and slightly agitates the water without bringing it to a boil. it comes with small packets of detergent but a small amount of Dawn works as well and as has been said before, change the water as soon as you start seeing discoloration and scoop off the grease bubbles.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Pigs are very creasy critters, as are large cats. I’ve cleaned 100’s of sculls in my life. The only way that works is to soak them in a degreasing detergent, give them a quick boil in detergent, and d then let hem simmer in a hydrogen peroxide solution. We buy them as 50% in 5L bottles for swimming pools in RSA.

I simmer them in a big aluminium pot with a few firebricks in to retain heat and reduce volume. The average pig scull might take 2x250ml 50% hydrogen peroxide. Then clean with a pressure washer and wire brush, and if needed give it another 20 minute simmer to bleach.

Let dry in the sun, stick the molars back in place, fill the tusks with silicone so they do not split and assemble your warthog.

I’ve never found that topical solutions work.

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Please note how a silly taxidermist painted this Black Wildebeest, and how poor it looks.
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Apparently there are more than a few taxidermists in RSA who will paint skulls rather than do the work.

A word of advice to all who are unfamiliar: EXPLICITELY instruct your taxidermist over there to NOT paint your skulls. Painted skulls are typically not cleaned properly ... = stink up your house. Also, instruct them in writing that all teeth are to be attached, if that is important to you. Otherwise they'll assume it's not important and you will get a crate full of jack-o-lanterns. Been there on both accounts.

Sadly, insisting on teeth being reattached doesn't necessarily mean you'll get your skull with its own teeth attached. Been there too. Had to remove a complete set of cattle teeth from my best kudu skull. Each tooth had roots cut off and glued on willy nilly. Looked like something from a horror show.

 

[mark-hunter]

Also, instruct them in writing that all teeth are to be attached, if that is important to you. Otherwise they'll assume it's not important and you will get a crate full of jack-o-lanterns. Been there on both accounts.

Not sure how this can be controlled. Teeth are delicate. In every of my three trophy shipments from Africa, i got some sculls with several missing teeth. In one case, I got mixed warthog tusks from different animals. In that situation, I can only improvise, or accept it as it is.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Not sure how this can be controlled. Teeth are delicate. In every of my three trophy shipments from Africa, i got some sculls with several missing teeth. In one case, I got mixed warthog tusks from different animals. In that situation, I can only improvise, or accept it as it is.

They can control it. Make sure the pot is being watched. If teeth are falling out of antelope I can almost guarantee the skull was boiled too long. And there will usually be other problems. Look closely. Do you have your animal's nose pieces or is something from another critter jerry rigged onto the skull and touched up with body putty and spray paint? Very common! Overcooked teeth that didn't fall out are typically cracked.

We occasionally have teeth drop out when cooking hogs and bears but there's a screen at the bottom of the pot to catch them. We expect teeth will fall out of them so check the skulls constantly testing for loose ones.

You're right: "What can ya do?" We're here and they're way over there. One thing you can do: don't give that shithead a second chance. If your outfitter insists on that taxidermist, then you can be assured he's getting a kickback of some sort. Also very common. Be firm or find another outfitter. I have found a good taxidermist in Port Elizabeth. He's not cheap but last time I only had one animal with a two front teeth missing. Maybe no surprise as he was a very old nyala. Sadly, both capes they did may be no good but I think that was probably the fault of tannery. He says he'll do something for me about it. At least he's willing to try to work something out. Last taxidermist just blew off the parade of screwups ... until I roasted them on this forum. Then the owner just got mad. Hey pal, photos don't lie! Still has not offered to make it right.

 

[RichD]

They can control it. Make sure the pot is being watched. If teeth are falling out of antelope I can almost guarantee the skull was boiled too long. And there will usually be other problems. Look closely. Do you have your animal's nose pieces or is something from another critter jerry rigged onto the skull and touched up with body putty and spray paint? Very common! Overcooked teeth that didn't fall out are typically cracked.

We occasionally have teeth drop out when cooking hogs and bears but there's a screen at the bottom of the pot to catch them. We expect teeth will fall out of them so check the skulls constantly testing for loose ones.

You're right: "What can ya do?" We're here and they're way over there. One thing you can do: don't give that shithead a second chance. If your outfitter insists on that taxidermist, then you can be assured he's getting a kickback of some sort. Also very common. Be firm or find another outfitter. I have found a good taxidermist in Port Elizabeth. He's not cheap but last time I only had one animal with a two front teeth missing. Maybe no surprise as he was a very old nyala. Sadly, both capes they did may be no good but I think that was probably the fault of tannery. He says he'll do something for me about it. At least he's willing to try to work something out. Last taxidermist just blew off the parade of screwups ... until I roasted them on this forum. Then the owner just got mad. Hey pal, photos don't lie! Still has not offered to make it right.

Thank you for all your input and advice- much appreciated. I had a chance to do just a little work today. Put the upper and lower in a mixing tub with dishwasher liquid and Oxy powder, filled with hottest water at home, covered to retain heat. A couple hours, some fat scummed up, rinsed and repeated 2 more times. More work to follow.

Re lost/loose teeth, noted several teeth missing from each warthog, wildebeest, gemsbok, eland, and kudu. Epoxied the loose ones, but out of luck on missing ones. Have one loose tooth that does not fit anywhere. Odd.

Lastly, the tusks. I saw a rec on AH to fill tusks to prevent damage. A couple used E6000, non-expanding, so that's what I did. A friend told me when I glue them into skull, leave as much as possible out to make them look larger. Not sure that makes sense?

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Thank you for all your input and advice- much appreciated. I had a chance to do just a little work today. Put the upper and lower in a mixing tub with dishwasher liquid and Oxy powder, filled with hottest water at home, covered to retain heat. A couple hours, some fat scummed up, rinsed and repeated 2 more times. More work to follow.

Re lost/loose teeth, noted several teeth missing from each warthog, wildebeest, gemsbok, eland, and kudu. Epoxied the loose ones, but out of luck on missing ones. Have one loose tooth that does not fit anywhere. Odd.

Lastly, the tusks. I saw a rec on AH to fill tusks to prevent damage. A couple used E6000, non-expanding, so that's what I did. A friend told me when I glue them into skull, leave as much as possible out to make them look larger. Not sure that makes sense?

Your tusks are plenty long enough already. A tooth that doesn't belong is not that weird. They overcook skulls and teeth fall to bottom of pot where they get too hot and disintegrate. Then someone goes to the scrap heap out back, digs a tooth from some critter's skull, and sticks it on your skull. Look at this mess.

 

[mark-hunter]

Last taxidermist just blew off the parade of screwups ... until I roasted them on this forum. Then the owner just got mad. Hey pal, photos don't lie! Still has not offered to make it right.

"the owner just got mad!"
Love this!



Got your point!

 

[RichD]

Your tusks are plenty long enough already. A tooth that doesn't belong is not that weird. They overcook skulls and teeth fall to bottom of pot where they get too hot and disintegrate. Then someone goes to the scrap heap out back, digs a tooth from some critter's skull, and sticks it on your skull. Look at this mess.
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I think I've got this warthog pretty much done for now, just a coat or 2 of Mop n Glo. And, of course. 2 more questions: How far in to glue the tusks and how best to hang the skull on a wall plaque? I've seen pics of hogs on a flat stand or a rod, but not of one of a wall. Thanks for all the help!!

 

[UKHunter]

First, fill the tusks with candle wax (melt a candle and drip it in) to stop them splitting / cracking. Then, you can see on the tusks the dark rim where they extruded from the gum line. That gives you a good idea how much they should stick out. I haven’t mounted a warthog but my approach for all skulls is to fill the brain cavity with car body filler and then a bit of wood. Let it set and then put a screw through the back of the shield and through into the wood in the brain cavity.