Need Expertise Please To My Mystery

20 rounds moa, sounds like good performance from a stunning rifle.

What direction is the scope hitting its limits? Wondering about possible swapped bases or rings during the scope swap.

On the chamber issue, if it includes not just reloads, but also factory ammo, "foreign matter" would seem likely. As suggested by others, clean carefully.
 
20 rounds moa, sounds like good performance from a stunning rifle.

What direction is the scope hitting its limits? Wondering about possible swapped bases or rings during the scope swap.

On the chamber issue, if it includes not just reloads, but also factory ammo, "foreign matter" would seem likely. As suggested by others, clean carefully.
STUPID me!!! i shot all the rounds good MOA UNTIL ammo problem…should clean thoroughly then retry! Thanks so much everyone for reminding me of common sense!!! Also you could be very right…i may have swapped rings from front to back without thinking
 
20 rounds moa, sounds like good performance from a stunning rifle.

What direction is the scope hitting its limits? Wondering about possible swapped bases or rings during the scope swap.

On the chamber issue, if it includes not just reloads, but also factory ammo, "foreign matter" would seem likely. As suggested by others, clean carefully.
I went to 25 yards and was still one inch to the left with no clicks left
 
I went to 25 yards and was still one inch to the left with no clicks left
Go out to 100 yards and see what happens. Doesn't make sense but some barrels come back into the bull at distance. It is rare. Probably not on the paper but give it a shot (just one).

I had to shim the rail on my Springfield. I used a slice of black Peters shotshell hull. Worked well.

You can check the alignment of bases using twin cones gauge. Lapping them might be the answer but I suspect you'll have to shim one or both bases if the scope is that far off at 25 yards.
 
wow…i want to see but link is not working for me my friend!
Ah Reddit can be stupid...

Okay, the original poster asks, "I have a Husqvarna hunting rifle with a Mauser action. The bolt goes in but when it comes forward it is completely stuck and wont turn at all to lock the action. I can move the bolt back and fourth but cant turn. Also the flag safety is stuck? Don’t know if that's relevant to the issue but anyway. Anyone know the problem or a solution?"

Someone replied, "Will it rotate in to battery with the trigger pulled? Confirm the weapon has no rounds in the magazine or chamber. Hold the grip in left hand with your index on the trigger, depress the trigger as far as it will to. With your right hand, push the bolt forward and try and turn it down. Does it close? These cock on close, and so this will take cocking the rifle out of the equation and determine if the issue is external to the bolt or internal.
Has this always been your rifle or recent acquisition?

I'd pull the bolt and disassemble it, and reassemble. The safety being stuck makes me think someone did this but incorrectly."

OP says, "I tried the trick you suggested, but the bolt still wont turn. The rifle has been in the family for about 60 years but has not seen use for about 10 years. Do you think the bolt is assembled incorrectly, if so do you have any tips on what problems i should look for?"

Another reply, "Take the bolt a soak it in cleaner. Might have old oil, carbon, grease, and dust all set up and solidified. Let it soak in for an hour or so, then hit it with some wd40. Then see if it will free up. If not, you will have to completely disassemble the bolt group to figure out what's wrong."

Is that helpful at all? I'd say that if you had trouble putting a round in the chamber, there was an issue with your brass or bullet or both, but you said that your issue was turning the bolt down? I think it could be an issue with the bolt itself, then, but that's about all the input I've got for you.
 
The rings should be the same height no matter where they are on the receiver. It's the actual scope bases that have different heights from front to back. And usually, on a Mauser the hole spacing is different from front to back. So there's no way to get those wrong. At any rate, that would affect elevation, not windage. If you're running out of windage, your scope base holes could be drilled out of alignment, as was said before. If the barrel is out of alignment enough to cause the problem, I'd be very concerned. That is a major error made by the gunsmith.
As far as the cartridges not chambering, I actually ran into the very same problem with a custom Winchester 70 416 RM. It turned out to be the belts on the cases being out of spec for that particular rifle. The 375 headspaces on the belt, so if your chamber was cut with a minimum sized chamber, your headspace could be too tight for some brands of ammo. My rifle worked fine with some brands and not so well with Hornady as I recall. I measured the belts with a dial caliper, and found that the belts do vary in size from case to case, and brand to brand.

As far as the cartridges getting stuck in the chamber after firing, I'd say that also points to an overly tight chamber.
 
Everyone here has far more knowledge than me. But I'll share a similar experience I had.
Symptoms were exactly the same as yours on a rifle that worked perfectly until it suddenly didn't.
In my case I left the bolt open on a short drive down a dusty road.
Chamber got dust in it that caused the same problem you're having. Had to be totally cleaned and lightly polished to rectify the problem.
Over 10 years ago and still going strong now.
 
The rings should be the same height no matter where they are on the receiver. It's the actual scope bases that have different heights from front to back. And usually, on a Mauser the hole spacing is different from front to back. So there's no way to get those wrong. At any rate, that would affect elevation, not windage. If you're running out of windage, your scope base holes could be drilled out of alignment, as was said before. If the barrel is out of alignment enough to cause the problem, I'd be very concerned. That is a major error made by the gunsmith.
As far as the cartridges not chambering, I actually ran into the very same problem with a custom Winchester 70 416 RM. It turned out to be the belts on the cases being out of spec for that particular rifle. The 375 headspaces on the belt, so if your chamber was cut with a minimum sized chamber, your headspace could be too tight for some brands of ammo. My rifle worked fine with some brands and not so well with Hornady as I recall. I measured the belts with a dial caliper, and found that the belts do vary in size from case to case, and brand to brand.

As far as the cartridges getting stuck in the chamber after firing, I'd say that also points to an overly tight chamber.
This is a military Mauser that has been significantly modified. First, military Mausers were not tapped at the factory for scopes. So someone after the fact drilled and tapped it ... someplace on the receiver. Not every sporterized rifle will have base screw holes tapped in the same place, front vs back OR side to side. Second, it appears to me the stripper clip feeding slot on the top of the receiver has been removed and receiver reshaped. So I'm thinking the rear scope base is custom made? Who knows what shape the receiver and base took back there. Compare his rear base to my Mauser's rail. Note how I had to carve away portions of the rail made for commercial FN Mauser to make it fit over my gun's military stripper clip (the aftermarket outfit only sold aluminum rails for military Mausers and I wanted a steel one).

I'll bet my crusty jockey shorts the bases are not in line. Twin cone gauge will confirm. If it shows bases are aligned (the cone tips touch), then the problem is in the scope or barrel (latter extremely unlikely).

Edit: My bad. This is NOT a military action. I was confused following the thread with photo of Duane Weibe build on Argentine Mauser. So what action is this built on? Should be a name on the receiver.
 
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Is the barrel still floating freely back to chamber?
 
The rings should be the same height no matter where they are on the receiver. It's the actual scope bases that have different heights from front to back. And usually, on a Mauser the hole spacing is different from front to back. So there's no way to get those wrong. At any rate, that would affect elevation, not windage. If you're running out of windage, your scope base holes could be drilled out of alignment, as was said before. If the barrel is out of alignment enough to cause the problem, I'd be very concerned. That is a major error made by the gunsmith.
As far as the cartridges not chambering, I actually ran into the very same problem with a custom Winchester 70 416 RM. It turned out to be the belts on the cases being out of spec for that particular rifle. The 375 headspaces on the belt, so if your chamber was cut with a minimum sized chamber, your headspace could be too tight for some brands of ammo. My rifle worked fine with some brands and not so well with Hornady as I recall. I measured the belts with a dial caliper, and found that the belts do vary in size from case to case, and brand to brand.

As far as the cartridges getting stuck in the chamber after firing, I'd say that also points to an overly tight chamber.
Rings SHOULD be the same height but doesn't mean they are. Anyway, you're right, elevation is not the problem. It's windage.
 
Also. Swarovski has less windage adjustment than alot of other brands.
Another scope may not have the same issues. But it suggests that scope and barrel alignment are off.
 
Like others have said, Swarovski is limited on adjustment.
Barrels have a bow to them some more than others. Good smith's will time the barrel curvature to the 12 o'clock position. Not saying thos is the case with this build, it could be a possibility.

Someone mentioned a shim to get the scope where it needed to be, that's where my starting point would be.

One other question I have, is the barrel tight in the action? It is a CRF Model, the extraction claw needs a relief is the barrel. If the barrel is lose, that could jam the claw. Long story short, these are some of the possibilities. I good gunsmith would be able to get you taken care of.
 
First. The rifle is built on a commercial FN action with no stripper clip and solid left sidewall.

Second. The difficulty closing and opening points to a to short chamber, given that this happens with factory ammunition as well. Otherwise it could be to long brass on reloads. Anyhow you. The chamber should be measured with a set of go & no go gauges to establish that.

Third. The failure to zero could be rings turned around on the mounts, but you would have noticed the side the lever is on, or most likely holes drilled skew in the receiver.
 
The bolt issue sounds like a shoulder issue to me. I experienced it on reloads and finally determined the resizing die being dirty inside from lots of use combined with lube that wasn’t cutting it was stretching the brass and pulling the shoulder forward when bringing it down out of the die. I cleaned the die and switched lubes and the problem was solved. I know you stated factory ammo but I’ve have had and seen others have issues with factory loads.
The scope issue seems to me to be misaligned bases.
 
Do you have a bore scope? I would look inside the chamber the belt area, extractor claw area, and the throat. Reloads, how are you sizing your brass? How many reloads on your brass. Reading what you wrote, I'm not 100% sure you don't have two separate issues. Since you have been back home have you tried factory ammo?
 

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