Day 9 - Jurassic Park
I enjoy large trophies as much as the next person but I am not concerned with scores or measurements. Before our trip I let Werner know I am after mature, representative animals...except I really hope to find an exceptional impala. The antelope species represent Africa to me.
Near Omaruru there is a game ranch that caters primarily to photography safaris but a couple of PHs are allowed to hunt. We arrive to a lush lodge, tourist villas, towering palm trees, flowering bouganvilla, a pond with geese and tame animals. I feel out of place in the full service bar and restaurant as we meet the manager. It turns out we have an all access pass to this place and the backstage view is a little different than HQ.
There is almost no grass on the place. As we head out onto the 8400 acre farm we pass by the large runway and hangar and see a tractor trailer truck with large bales of South African hay being unloaded. Werner explains the lodge has been bought by a Swiss businessman who wants the animals left alone in their "natural" environment. "Natural" in this case means a high fence and introduced elephants. The elephants haven't put every 1,000 year old tree flat on the ground but they are working on it.
Werner explains that grass eaters become tame with tourist interaction and lack of food, but the browsers - impala and kudu - retain their wildness. He will not hunt anything other than impala or kudu here. We walk and spot many zebra and oryx in the bush. The zebra filter away and the oryx bolt but not before providing close shot opportunities. We spot a band of impala on a ridge in thick bush, too far to judge horns. And we never get the chance, they disappear as we spot them.
The place is thick with game and suddenly we see giraffe heads rising above the bush. It is surreal and reminds me of the movie Jurassic Park. They look like peaceful brontosaurus. I am walking along with a rifle, pinch me. We spot a nice Kudu bull under a camelthorn tree. We have seen him first with the wind in our favor. Somehow he becomes aware of our prescense and disappears.
Normally Werner is the first to spot game so I am proud to point out a few impala through thick bush. These are the first we have seen since the initial group. They are 200 yards quartering away, unaware of our presence. Werner immediately perks up - we must get closer. We drop into a ravine. Now we are within 140 yards of where we expect them to pass. We glimpse them filtering through the bush and Werner tells me to be ready. I don't want to shoot the first impala I see - I want to find a good one. I still haven't had a good look at any impala ram this trip and I wonder if Werner has actually had a good look. Now they are moving more quickly as the bush opens slightly. Suddenly I have a quartering away shot at the ram bringing up the rear and Werner tells me urgently to shoot. After the shot Werner explains that the instant he first saw that impala he knew it was exceptional.
On the walk out we find half a dozen dead oryx and zebra. There are still months til the next rains and a lot more animals will be dead before then.
As we are returning to the lodge, we run into the other PH that has permission to hunt this place. He has a couple of American bowhunters in his truck and he and Werner catch up in German. They share a laugh and later when I ask Werner about the conversation he says Nick is tired of sitting on his backside.
After dropping off the impala at the butchery we sip cold beer under the cool shaded veranda in oversized leather armchairs while watching ducks, geese, eland, ostrich, zebra, and springbok enjoy the palm-shaded pond. This place is not where I would want to spend my entire safari but what a morning. Emily and Claire have been on a game drive while we were hunting and we collect them before heading to Omaruru for lunch.
Willie tried to climb into my lap when these two approached the truck
In Omaruru there is a surprisingly modern grocery. In the parking lot Werner runs into a friend. The man is dressed like any local, but is tall and fit with searching eyes. Werner is telling him, in German, that I have just bought his book in Swakopmund. At the time I don't appreciate the significance of meeting Kai-Uwe Denker and I wish now that I had already read his book before meeting him.