Muzzle break --- Brake, Broke, Broken, Busted

[JimP]

break, break, sigh........

almost as bad as saying, " I could care less". Just grates on the soul....

Almost when the lady friend says "Whatever"

 

[IvW]

Sell it and buy something else....

 

[Randy F]

Almost when the lady friend says "Whatever"

And then gets lazy and shortens it to "whatev". Grrr

 

[BRICKBURN]

break, break, sigh........

almost as bad as saying, " I could care less". Just grates on the soul....

I could care less... but I don't.

I changed the title....
"Muzzle break --- Brake, Broke, Broken, Busted"

 

[Newboomer]

I could care less... but I don't.

I changed the title....
"Muzzle break --- Brake, Broke, Broken, Busted"

It's "brake" as in to slow down or reduce. "Break" means to damage. Come on, Guys, that's elementary school spelling. All the more reason never to put one of the damned things on in the first place.

 

[shootist~]

Probably on with red Loctite.

Put barrel in a padded vise - preferably in (padded) aluminum barrel blocks or a barrel vice, if you have one. Needs to be tight or the barrel will spin. Plan on some damage to the finish depending on how and what you use for the padding.

Use Propane or Mapp gas and heat the brake at and above threaded area it until it smokes, (it won't yet be cherry red at this point). Spin it off with whatever tool fits. A Philips screwdriver might work.

I've removed a few AR15 and FAL muzzle devices this way with no "apparent" issues.

 

[Hunter4752001]

You indicated that you wanted to remove the brake so that you could use the threaded section to fit a suppressor. Another reason to have a good smith not only remove the brake, but also check the threaded section for concentricity and whether there's enough shoulder behind the thread for indexing. Because brakes have only a short length, concentricity and a shoulder aren't critical issues, with a suppressor they are.

 

[IvW]

A rifle barrel needs two holes one at the action and one at the muzzle....

 

[CoElkHunter]

It's "brake" as in to slow down or reduce. "Break" means to damage. Come on, Guys, that's elementary school spelling. All the more reason never to put one of the damned things on in the first place.

So is it a “brake or break” dance?

 

[BourbonTrail]

Their they’re, we knead to put the breaks on all this teasing before we brake someone’s hart.

This is such a grate sight.

 

[Newboomer]

So is it a “brake or break” dance?

"Break" dance according to the kids. Howsomever, I don't sea much scents in it. Must be gittin auld.

 

[Hogpatrol]

Don't loose site of the affect of the break on your ears.

 

[Monsai52]

Don't loose site of the affect of the break on your ears.

Yes, ewe halve two bee veri careful knot too brake you're eardrum, sow you can still here good.

Best regards,

 

[ZG47]

It's "brake" as in to slow down or reduce. "Break" means to damage. Come on, Guys, that's elementary school spelling. All the more reason never to put one of the damned things on in the first place.

They were invented for artillery pieces that would be used with supercharged rounds, according to my understanding BUT I was a Sapper, not a Dropshort!

It seems counterintuitive to put one on a hand gun i.e. a hunting rifle, as opposed to a carriage mounted rifle.

 

[Philip Glass]

Ditto using a gunsmith. Get it cut and threaded the way you want it. You may want to take your suppressor with you so he can get the length of the threads where they match your suppressor.
PG

 

[fourfive8]

@ChrisG that is exactly right- "The heat issue is overblown a little if you can keep the barrel below 900F you would be fine."

If a lttle heat damaged rifle barrels- how in the world could smiths connect and regulate the barrels of doubles or "sweat" sights or ribs on without damaging the barrel? If the "potato" is epoxied on, as little as 300-350 deg F will usually break the epoxy. If it is pinned on that should be easily visible.

A lot of these discussions remind me of some around the coffee shop. For example: Last year one of the guys asked where he could get a really strong tension spring for his recliner (chair) as one of the loop ends on a spring in his chair had broken. I suggested heating the remaining part of the broken loop end to temper it a little then create a new loop with a pair of needle nose pliers. You would have thought I had committed metallurgical sacrilege- all the laughing and guffawing- claiming that would certainly ruin the spring! First, putting a little heat to the end of the spring likely would not affect the rest of the spring and even if it weakened a coil or two it would still function. But most of all.... what would be the worst possible outcome... ruining an already broken spring? good grief!

 

[Randy F]

@ChrisG that is exactly right- "The heat issue is overblown a little if you can keep the barrel below 900F you would be fine."

If a lttle heat damaged rifle barrels- how in the world could smiths connect and regulate the barrels of doubles or "sweat" sights or ribs on without damaging the barrel? If the "potato" is epoxied on, as little as 300-350 deg F will usually break the epoxy. If it is pinned on that should be easily visible.

A lot of these discussions remind me of some around the coffee shop. For example: Last year one of the guys asked where he could get a really strong tension spring for his recliner (chair) as one of the loop ends on a spring in his chair had broken. I suggested heating the remaining part of the broken loop end to temper it a little then create a new loop with a pair of needle nose pliers. You would have thought I had committed metallurgical sacrilege- all the laughing and guffawing- claiming that would certainly ruin the spring! First, putting a little heat to the end of the spring likely would not affect the rest of the spring and even if it weakened a coil or two it would still function. But most of all.... what would be the worst possible outcome... ruining an already broken spring? good grief!

You are most definitely correct on the spring thing. I'm a farmer...I've had to do exactly that a hundred times over the years when something breaks (brakes?) on a Sunday and you can't get parts.

I did help a neighbor get the muzzle breakensted off the barrel of his rifle once by applying some heat but it sure didn't take much as it wasn't stuck on near as hard as the OP's sounds like it is. His rifle is still a tack driver.

 

[ZG47]

Ditto using a gunsmith. Get it cut and threaded the way you want it. You may want to take your suppressor with you so he can get the length of the threads where they match your suppressor.
PG

The other reason for taking the suppressor with you is that: with modern CNC cutting instead of using a tap, there is no way of knowing what kind of thread is on the suppressor. There is an Airgun maker in a Southern U.S. state, possibly Texas, who once worked for Theoben in England. He makes high end PCP rifles and makes a point of advertising the use of taps and dies by him and his staff because that ensures quality and consistency. Given the pressures his air rifles can be run at, any sensible person would want that attention to quality. The same applies when attaching a suppressor to a centrefire hunting rifle which obviously operates at significantly higher pressures.

 

[rookhawk]

How its done is as follows. Don't take the "how its done" to indicate "you should try this". I have no idea of the quality of tools or judgment of the reader.

Step one: Get a piece of 2x2" oak or other durable hardwood about 10" long.

Step two: cut it into two pieces, one about 6", the other 1-2-3-4" (however long the muzzlebrake is)

Step three: drill a hole through it approximately the diameter of the barrel and muzzlebrake respectively.

Step four: Run the pieces through a table saw, splitting them in two lengthwise.

Step five: Apply leather to the interior semi-circles to prevent gouging or damage. Test multiple times, if too big, cut a slight amount off of both pieces in a table saw.

Pause

Step A: warm the muzzle of the gun modestly

Step B: baste it in kroil, allowing kroil to seep into the threads. (a pro would set up a roast beef heat bulb on a modest setting, 100F metal temp max, and would put a few drops of kroil on the muzzlebrake joint ever few hours for a couple days in the workshop before gving anything a go.

Resume:

Step six: with gun prepared and vise blocks made, place the barrel in the vise under appropriate pressure. Place muzzlebrake into the vise block fixture made for that portion. Use wrench to unscrew muzzlebrake.

Final:

Step seven: Inspect the shitshow. Did the gunsmith use loctite red (probably) or loctite green (oh god no) on the threads? If the former, clean the threads and you're good to go. If the latter, inspect for serious damage, potentially cutting back, rethreading, and creating a new crown.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

break, break, sigh........

almost as bad as saying, " I could care less". Just grates on the soul....

@sestoppelman
I could care less if it broke, but don't break the brake or you will have problems.
Take it to a gunsmith.
Ha ha ha ha ha