Mounting Scope on Rem 700 Safari 375 H&H - Questions

[Inline6]

Larry knows his stuff. He most likely did all the smithing work himself. He can afford any rifle. And he goes with the design he is most familiar with. Great video. Thanks.

Yes he can buy any rifle he wishes. Just remember his job is sales. Everything to build that rifle he sells. How many parts could he sell if he told everyone the perfect safari rifle was a Londons best?

Just because someone say it, doesn't make it so. It does require reading between the lines.

 

[Inline6]

You need Kampfeld Customs of Sand Point Idaho!

This man is the Charlie Daniels of 700 smiths
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He will open up those holes to 8-40 TPI threads for $50.

Also check out his M-16 style extractor for REM 700’s

He’s worked on several of my rifles and his work is top notch and well priced.

Bolt and Barrel Fluting

He does nice work, I'm not a fan of his bolt fluting. Have seen a few rounds jam from the shoulder interface with the bolt fluting. Especially the round that are more than 30°.

 

[Ridge Runner]

And yes, d&t to #8 may not be necessary but it adds peace of mind and insurance. Take care as some receivers are very hard and taps can break..... with accompanying utterance and thought of "oh no" . Don't ask me how I know.

When mounting any scope it pays to make sure of perfect alignment of any type rings. This kit by Wheeler helps insure that alignment. Also, lapping the rings won't hurt. Taking caring during mounting process also helps prevent both scope damage and scope slippage under

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OH Please....Don't even get me started on broken taps, because a "shade tree" wannabe cheap a$$ wanted to DIY to save money on gunsmith fees.

It happens to the best gunsmiths. When a chip of drilled material will cause the drill bit to go every direction but straight. Shim stock is handy. An assortment of .001 to .003. If it's a "shade tree" re repair, up to .1 may be nice to have on hand.

fourfive8, need to include the scope levels and square with the scope alignment dowels.

....and a Wheeler torque kit to properly torque the scope mount and ring screws.

 

[Inline6]

OH Please....Don't even get me started on broken taps, because a "shade tree" wannabe cheap a$$ wanted to DIY to save money on gunsmith fees.

It happens to the best gunsmiths. When a chip of drilled material will cause the drill bit to go every direction but straight. Shim stock is handy. An assortment of .001 to .003. If it's a "shade tree" re repair, up to .1 may be nice to have on hand.

fourfive8, need to include the scope levels and square with the scope alignment dowels.

....and a Wheeler torque kit to properly torque the scope mount and ring screws.

I'm a shade tree, I use much better tools than a wheeler torque kit. Some scope run multiple thousands of dollars, I want to use the best tool for the job personally.

 

[Ridge Runner]

I'm a shade tree, I use much better tools than a wheeler torque kit. Some scope run multiple thousands of dollars, I want to use the best tool for the job personally.

That's great.
How often do you use those tools?
fourfive8 was talking about some people using cheap tap and die sets that easily break. Which can become a nightmare to fix.
I was referring to include a torque screw driver to be included with getting the set of scope alignment rods to properly torque the scope screws. Wheeler is a good option; quality, accurate, and does the job at a modest price.

 

[fourfive8]

I'm a shade tree, I use much better tools than a wheeler torque kit. Some scope run multiple thousands of dollars, I want to use the best tool for the job personally.

Huh? Who mentioned a Wheeler torque kit? The Wheeler scope lapping and alignment bars as pictured, have nothing to do with a "torque kit"... whatever a "Wheeler Torque Kit" is? And I don't care what brand the tap, any can break and are a pain in the arse to extract. Matter of fact now, if I need to drill and tap any really hard or tough metal, I haul my stuff over to a friend's house, lock it up in a milling machine, drill the hole, replace bit with tap then gingerly turn the tap by hand- using the milling machine as an alignment tool for both the drilling and tapping.

Now, I'm almost sorry I even posted any tips in this thread. And BTW, I have seen both self-proclaimed and professional machinists and gunsmiths botch their share of jobs just as badly as any DIYer- and the so called professionals have zero excuse- but they tend to have well practiced alibis. Some of the work I do on my guns is done for two purposes- saving money and making sure the job is done right. I'm retired so my sweat equity costs me nothing and is not measured by a number of hours on a bill for inflated prices at the end of a job that may or may not have been done right or with any pride or craftsmanship.

 

[Inline6]

Huh? Who mentioned a Wheeler torque kit? The Wheeler scope lapping and alignment bars as pictured, have nothing to do with a "torque kit"... whatever a "Wheeler Torque Kit" is? And I don't care what brand the tap, any can break and are a pain in the arse to extract. Matter of fact now, if I need to drill and tap any really hard or tough metal, I haul my stuff over to a friend's house, lock it up in a milling machine, drill the hole, replace bit with tap then gingerly turn the tap by hand- using the milling machine as an alignment tool for both the drilling and tapping.

Now, I'm almost sorry I even posted any tips in this thread. And BTW, I have seen both self-proclaimed and professional machinists and gunsmiths botch their share of jobs just as badly as any DIYer- and the so called professionals have zero excuse- but they tend to have well practiced alibis. Some of the work I do on my guns is done for two purposes- saving money and making sure the job is done right. I'm retired so my sweat equity costs me nothing and is not measured by a number of hours on a bill for inflated prices at the end of a job that may or may not have been done right or with any pride or craftsmanship.

My comment was towards @Ridge Runner not you @fourfive8 (I did not see where you suggested using cheap quality tools, only some recievers are hard and can break tools). Personally do most of my work myself also. Including cutting my own barrels and chambering them. If I had to send my rifles off to a smith for everything little thing. I would not be able to afford to shoot them.

That's great.
How often do you use those tools?
fourfive8 was talking about some people using cheap tap and die sets that easily break. Which can become a nightmare to fix.
I was referring to include a torque screw driver to be included with getting the set of scope alignment rods to properly torque the scope screws. Wheeler is a good option; quality, accurate, and does the job at a modest price.

As far as how often I use said tools, roughly mount 2 scopes a month. I have a bad case of scope ADHD. They also get used for action screws, barrel screws, etc.

My point to this is you are making broad bush statements about "shade tree" smith's using inferior tooling. Hints I found it ironic that you would mention a Wheeler. I did not see any suggestions of using cheap tooling, only caution of what could happen. Especially when the reciever is harder than expected.