mono vs lead for Cape Buffalo?

All of your experiences that you have shared here are very insightful and much appreciated. Thank you.

Also, the interviews by Kevin Robertson on youtube on "Big Game Hunting Blog" are very good. I'll get his books.
 
Having taken 4 Cape buffalo bulls, 3 Australian Water Buffalo bulls, and 1 Australian Water Buffalo Cow, I’ve used TSX, Swift AF and CEB Raptors, in various calibers. Other than one of my Cape Buffalo bulls, all have been clean kills. I always keep shooting until the buffalo is down, but in all of those scenarios, I feel that the first shot was sufficient to kill the buffalo outright. I feel that any bullet that will penetrate through the vitals from most any angle is a good bullet. Of course shot placement trumps almost everything else. Out of all the bullets I’ve used, they’ve all done the job. On the one Cape buffalo bull that actually required more than one shot, I made a very steep angling first shot and therefore only caught one lung. In that situation, I’m not sure it would’ve mattered what caliber or bullet I was using.
As far as the CEB Raptor is concerned, it’s the only bullet I’ve ever used that passed completely through both shoulders of a buffalo. All others, TSX included, stopped inside the animal. Even on broadside shots on big Australian Water Buffalo bulls, the TSX stopped under the skin on the far side.
 
So, how many of you would prefer to take on a charge knowing full well that it is imminent, and in a brush so thick that you cannot see beyond a few feet? Distance is the key here and I'm not referring to a charge from 20 to 30 yards which is normal
I would take that risk rather than using a drone. I own one but have never used it for hunting and never would.
 
As has been repeated here often. The first shot is most important

I agree with the first accurate shot being the top priority. Watching many Buffalo hunts on TV I have come to learn many shots are not optimal and the hunt quickly turns into a $hii show.

Few hunts described here on AH (some have told it like it was) tell of less than optimal shots taken and the results of that poor first shot. But watching them on video where the shot is shown openly for all to see. And you see many Buffalo hunts do not end with one clean shot. Either the angle was wrong for the chosen bullet, the shot was pulled, poor visibility (iron sights in thick brush) long shots with iron sights Etc. As we all know. If you select a good bullet, it is the easiest part of the sequence of killing a buffalo and should be the least of your worries. Hitting where you aim that chosen bullet should take more of your time.
 
For 375, there's two Trophy Bonded Bear Claws available, a 250gr and 300gr. Which would be better for cape buffalo? Would the higher velocity of the 250gr create more expansion and larger wound track inside the animal?
 
For 375, there's two Trophy Bonded Bear Claws available, a 250gr and 300gr. Which would be better for cape buffalo? Would the higher velocity of the 250gr create more expansion and larger wound track inside the animal?
300 grain offers more penetration in equal bullet designs. On buffalo, penetration is more important than expansion. Best to choose a bullet that will do both.
 
Greetings Carnivore hunter,

Fast light weight bullets are appropriate for light animals at longer ranges.
Slow heavy weight bullets are the best, if not the only sensible option, for large heavy animals at close range.

Here in the USA, many hunters seem to believe that extra velocity is a good idea, no matter what the animal’s size and temperament and no matter how close-in said animal’s are usually encountered.

John “Pondoro” Taylor humorously referred to this as “Velocity Madness”.

That interesting fellow is unfortunately long gone now but, I still agree with him on this topic.
With that, my opinion on calibers and bullet design, is not especially popular with hunters who think new products are always better than old designs that have been working for a long time.

The Barnes mono metal expanding bullets are quite popular today, especially with the aforementioned Newer is Always Better crowd and with the High Velocity crowd as well.
The line between those two camps is often blurry to indistinguishable.

Having blathered all of that, I readily admit that when they actually expand, indeed they are quite effective.
It’s when they once in a great while fail to expand, thereby zipping through critters as if stabbing them with an ice pick, that keeps me from using such trendy bullets.

My recommendation for buffalo is to use the .375 H&H as your minimum caliber, with 300 grain Swift A-Frame bullets.
If you can shoot accurately with larger, heavier calibers, (not faster calibers), then so much the better, as there is no such thing as “too much gun”.
Of course again, this is provided that one can shoot quite accurately with whatever shoulder cannon they choose.

Cheers,
Velo Dog.
 
Greetings Carnivore hunter,

Fast light weight bullets are appropriate for light animals at longer ranges.
Slow heavy weight bullets are the best, if not the only sensible option, for large heavy animals at close range.

Here in the USA, many hunters seem to believe that extra velocity is a good idea, no matter what the animal’s size and temperament and no matter how close-in said animal’s are usually encountered.

John “Pondoro” Taylor humorously referred to this as “Velocity Madness”.

That interesting fellow is unfortunately long gone now but, I still agree with him on this topic.
With that, my opinion on calibers and bullet design, is not especially popular with hunters who think new products are always better than old designs that have been working for a long time.

The Barnes mono metal expanding bullets are quite popular today, especially with the aforementioned Newer is Always Better crowd and with the High Velocity crowd as well.
The line between those two camps is often blurry to indistinguishable.

Having blathered all of that, I readily admit that when they actually expand, indeed they are quite effective.
It’s when they once in a great while fail to expand, thereby zipping through critters as if stabbing them with an ice pick, that keeps me from using such trendy bullets.

My recommendation for buffalo is to use the .375 H&H as your minimum caliber, with 300 grain Swift A-Frame bullets.
If you can shoot accurately with larger, heavier calibers, (not faster calibers), then so much the better, as there is no such thing as “too much gun”.
Of course again, this is provided that one can shoot quite accurately with whatever shoulder cannon they choose.

Cheers,
Velo Dog.

Yup and a bit of lead will at least poison it eventually....so California says....another neanderthal here..... :D Beers:
 
For 375, there's two Trophy Bonded Bear Claws available, a 250gr and 300gr. Which would be better for cape buffalo? Would the higher velocity of the 250gr create more expansion and larger wound track inside the animal?
For lead core bullets in 375 you always use 300 gr at minimum. Some prefer 350 gr. Light fast bullets won’t penetrate as deeply or perform as well on bone as a heavier slower bullet. For a monolithic bullet you could maybe convince me to go lighter but 300 gr TSX has a very good record on buffalo as well.
 
So, how many of you would prefer to take on a charge knowing full well that it is imminent, and in a brush so thick that you cannot see beyond a few feet? Distance is the key here and I'm not referring to a charge from 20 to 30 yards which is normal
I don’t want to take on a charge at all. I’d prefer I made a good first shot then put in a finishing shot on the ground like my other buffalo hunts. However, if I was in the situation of a likely charge I’d hope I chose a PH who knows how to handle the situation.
 
So, how many of you would prefer to take on a charge knowing full well that it is imminent, and in a brush so thick that you cannot see beyond a few feet? Distance is the key here and I'm not referring to a charge from 20 to 30 yards which is normal

Different strokes for different folks, but some level of danger is inherent in certain types of hunting. Perhaps accept that or pick a different pursuit, such as stamp collecting or model building?

Clearly no one wants the situation you described... but we accept it as one mathematical possibility when we start. It's the same for me hunting in Alaska in an area heavy with brown bears - there is always some element of risk. But I can't imagine hunting being any other way. I sure as hell don't want drones involved in any hunting I do. YMMV
 
For lead core bullets in 375 you always use 300 gr at minimum. Some prefer 350 gr. Light fast bullets won’t penetrate as deeply or perform as well on bone as a heavier slower bullet. For a monolithic bullet you could maybe convince me to go lighter but 300 gr TSX has a very good record on buffalo as well.
100%
Least I would feel comfortable with would be a 270gr TSX! A 300 or 350gr TSX would feel very comfortable.
I shoot some 250gr cx in my .375 ruger and they are great for medium- larger game , but DG would make me feel nervous! ( penetration just isn’t there ! Tested on a wine barrel full of wet shredded paper)
I just passed on some factory made 300gr SAF @ $160 per 20 and have some remorse
But figured I could use some of my brass to load up some 300gr north fork and 300gr
Speer grand slam tungsten core solids
 
100%
Least I would feel comfortable with would be a 270gr TSX! A 300 or 350gr TSX would feel very comfortable.
I shoot some 250gr cx in my .375 ruger and they are great for medium- larger game , but DG would make me feel nervous! ( penetration just isn’t there ! Tested on a wine barrel full of wet shredded paper)
I just passed on some factory made 300gr SAF @ $160 per 20 and have some remorse
But figured I could use some of my brass to load up some 300gr north fork and 300gr
Speer grand slam tungsten core solids
Just FYI if you’d like some factory 375 H&H swifts they are available on midway for $132 a box but there’s a 20% mail in rebate available so $106 a box.

I’ve also had some inconsistency with 250 gr Barnes TTSX (similar to CX), but the 270 TSXs I used in Australia did very well.
 
as a European hunter:
I used Degol bullets for two weeks.
I could feel it under the skin on the other shoulder
Degol Starkmantel  .375 Büffel.jpg
 
I don’t want to take on a charge at all. I’d prefer I made a good first shot then put in a finishing shot on the ground like my other buffalo hunts. However, if I was in the situation of a likely charge I’d hope I chose a PH who knows how to handle the situation.
Understood, shooting a buffalo from 30 yards or thereabout and facing a charge from an equal distance is different than facing a buffalo that you know is there and waiting for you but can't see. Something like this.

 
Understood, shooting a buffalo from 30 yards or thereabout and facing a charge from an equal distance is different than facing a buffalo that you know is there and waiting for you but can't see. Something like this.

I’m not sure where you think a charge from 30 yards is normal? A charge itself isn’t normal, but the chances will increase the tighter quarters it gets. There are lots of buffalo charge YouTube videos available of different circumstances. If you are using that video as an example to justify using a drone I won’t understand your reasoning. They knew the buffalo was coming and the dogs very possibly instigated the charge. Some mistakes were made but it made a cool video especially since no one was seriously hurt in end. Choose who you hunt dangerous game with carefully. Lots of PH can legally take you DG hunting but not all actually have the experience or have proper trackers. If the first response to a wounded buffalo is getting the drone I’d have some concerns.

Here is a counter example (not my video). Note the role quality trackers play in reading the situation before it occurs. No dogs or drones.
 
A lot of very informative information on this thread.

A lot of information so far has been about first shot placement - shoulder shots. Now, where specifically on the shoulder for best chance to anchor the buffalo? I've been looking at photos of the anatomy of the buffalo. Should the first shot be a high shoulder blade shot where the shoulder blade is in front of the spine to try to break the shoulder blade and spine at the same time or shoot lower on the shoulder to try to hit the lungs?


Are the TBBC bullets strong enough to penetrate both the shoulder blade and spine with one shot or stick to AFrames and mono-metals for that?
 
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autofire wrote on LIMPOPO NORTH SAFARIS's profile.
Do you have any cull hunts available? 7 days, daily rate plus per animal price?
 
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