Mercury recoil reducers, do they work?

Unscoped my 500j is just under 9.5 and don’t want it heavier. To me fit is the most important factor.
 
My 500nitro is far worse than my 500j or 505 gibbs. The gibbs is worse than the 500j and it’s more than 2lbs heavier.
 
My 500J fits me fine. Recoil offhand is easy, off the bench a little sporty. I lift regularly with 15 lb dumbells (light weight, lots of reps) so 12 lbs with scope is not an issue for me.
 
Yeah, I shoot off sticks. Design also is important. I also shoot with gloves as my hands are very big. Size 13 ring on my little finger, so they get beat up and cut with the big guns.
 
More about weight than anything, and as mentioned in previous post hazardous materials could be a valid concern at some point with travel. Pretty sure they can tell in X-ray the difference between a weight and mercury reducer. A good smith can add lead in places you’ll never see and achieve perfect balance which is really important in big game rifle
 
More about weight than anything, and as mentioned in previous post hazardous materials could be a valid concern at some point with travel. Pretty sure they can tell in X-ray the difference between a weight and mercury reducer. A good smith can add lead in places you’ll never see and achieve perfect balance which is really important in big game rifle
The air travel factor is my main concern.
 
The air travel factor is my main concern.
I use the Dead Mule brand recoil reducers. They employ a "mechanical piston", without mercury.
I think they reduce felt recoil. Actual quantifiable data may prove or disprove my belief.
Nevertheless, I think they help!
 
My Blaser S2 came with a Kickstop installed. It made the rifle ridiculously heavy and I removed it almost immediately. Blaser stocks are so well designed, that recoil is not a real issue in any of the calibers I have (through 500/416) in either a S2 or R8.

For me, the big thing is weight. I personally can not conceive of carrying around a twelve pound rifle all day. All the buffalo hunting I have done required hours of tracking. An 8-9 lb rifle is all I care to lug around in the hot sun hour after hour. It is another reason I am so enamored with the .375.
 
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That was the problem with the Kimber Caprivi. Far too light as issued. Added about a pound between the reducer and the lead up front. Made a world of difference.
 
I think most, if not all African PHs would agree and be happy with this decision too.....
 
I agree with the poster that said other than weight the mercury recoil reducers slightly reduce the recoil velocity. I don't think my 500 Jeffery would be much fun to shoot without them.
 
HIGHLY RECOMEND USE THE MERCURY REDUCERS HELPS WITH BALANCE OF THE RIFLE AND DOES HELP WITH THE FELT RECOIL I HAVE SEVERAL ON MY BIG BORE GUNS 375,416,458'S AND INCLUDING MY DOUBLE 470 NITRO I LIKE MY RIFLES TO BE IN THE 11.5-12 LBS TOTAL WEIGHT AND EASY TO CARRY IN THE FIELD BUSH
LAST YEAR I CARRIED MY BRNO 602 450 ACKLEY 12.6 LBS BUFFALO HUNT SEVERAL MILES AND DID NOT NOTICED ANY ISSUESWITH ITS WEIGHT OR FATIGUED FROM CARRYING IT FOR 8-12 HRS DAILY KEY I DONT USE SLINGS ON MY DANGEROUS GUNS IN THE FIELD.
 
Felt recoil is very subjective, and stock fit is more important than folks realize. However, all weight is going to slow down recoil velocity. Competition shooters routinely add weight for this reason.

I've seen test results (sorry, I don't recall where), that suggested that given a fixed weight (say 8oz), that mercury reducers were less effective than lead or other solids. Mercury apparently only influences recoil velocity, but lead influences both recoil velocity and recoil energy.
 
I Agree that weight is better than or equal to a mercury reducer and a heck of a lot cheaper. I put 2 cartridges filled with lead in the stock of my Lott. Better balance as well. Balance point is a big part of recoil management and stock design is as well. Mechanical recoil reducers like springs/compressable rubber etc work. Start with the cheapest and work your way up.
 
With synthetic stocks, it's very simple to remove the recoil pad and add weight in whatever form you want to that void. Put a 16oz lead ingot, padded with scraps of neoprene, in my .50 cal muzzleloader and a few of the stick-on wheel weights in the forend to add a little over 18oz overall to it. At 6.8#, it was "brisk" pushing a 250gr bullet over 120gr of powder; at a shade over 8#, it's fine.
 
For quick and dirty on an O/U skeet gun, I filled up the stock bolt-hole with lead shot, then added a little silicone calk and compressed egg carton on the back end. Just food for thought.

IIRC I did not like how much air space the mercury recoil reducer had. This was a long time ago, btw.

I think @Philip Glass talks about the Brako recoil reducer working well in one of his threads. But that was on a Tikka 7MM Mag.
I use the Edwards Recoil Reducer. I have it installed in most everything from 7mm Mag up to the Kgun. Hard to explain and virtually no one I have ever met has heard of it. I met Kevin at Shot Show a few years back and have become a believer.
 
I had a Mauser recoil reducer installed in my M03. 375/8x68S after a second shoulder reconstruction that failed. I also installed a muzzle brake. Not prepared to give up shooting these calibres because of a shoulder issue just yet. Definitely a noticeable reduction in recoil, both off the bench and off hand. However this maybe as much to do with the weight increase as to the reducer itself. The reducer added just shy of half a kg. As my bicep muscle separated as well, I think that long stalk/treks carrying the rifle may be an issue. The balance is not optimum either. My other M03 definitely has more kick and doesn’t get the use at the range that the reduced rifle does. I don’t particularly like muzzle brakes, but it was just something I felt was required. The 8x68 has a short barrel and muzzle blast was brutal without the brake, so no really noticeable change there
 
Similar to Woodcarver, I made my own.
1. put buckshot in the buttstock hole
2. next comes a spring ( i used a .45 ACP recoil spring cut down a bit) that has a coin, similar to the buttstock hole diameter, which is epoxied to each end of the spring.
3. “squash“ it down with the butt pad and secure pad.

You now have the weight AND progressive spring dampening.
 
I had the Blaser kick stop installed in both of my kids R8’s. It adds weight, but definitely helps mitigate recoil in my opinion. That balance feels fine to me with the added weight in the stock.

It is an inexpensive option to add some type of recoil reducer other than a muzzle brake. I’d suggest it is worth trying and if you don’t like it, remove it. If it increases confidence in shooting, then it is a great addition.
 
Years ago I acquired a Perazzi MX8 Mirage with TWO recoil reducers in the stock. I had them removed and the gun moved and shot much better.
I would note that I am not particularly recoil sensitive and never shoot 'magnum' loads in my scatter guns.
 
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Had a fire on the cattle ranch where we hunt kudu all the neighbours came to help and we got it under control quickly!

Grz63 wrote on x84958's profile.
Good Morning x84958
I have read your post about Jamy Traut and your hunt in Caprivi. I am planning such a hunt for 2026, Oct with Jamy.
Just a question , because I will combine Caprivi and Panorama for PG, is the daily rate the same the week long, I mean the one for Caprivi or when in Panorama it will be a PG rate ?
thank you and congrats for your story.
Best regards
Philippe from France
dlmac wrote on Buckums's profile.
ok, will do.
 
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