Making My Way To BARNES

[BRICKBURN]

Just came back from this years practice session.
Everything is still in order with the last load established being accurate.
Now to load a few boxes for future exploits.

 

[Newboomer]

Brickburn,
I use a shellholder in a Frankford Arsenal puller for whatever bullet I need to pull. It's much easier and faster than fiddling with collets. Both brass and bullets come out unharmed. Lyman makes one for large calibers. It's a big orange one and I got one for my 404 Jeffery. Might fit 416, too.

 

[meigsbucks]

The cheapest way to pull a bullet is to take a pair of vise grips. Can't reuse the bullet, but the brass is fine. On something like the .416 both are costly tho.....
Bruce

Load those bullets for practice or foulers.

 

[Ridge Runner]

I used Barnes 165 gr TTSX (solids) in 30-06 on black and blue wildebeest.

Not having any reload data for Barnes, I called them and was transferred to a tech who provided me with all sorts of information on reloading the TTSX.

The tech I talked with said do go lighter on bullet weight: a Barnes 168 gr TTSX is equivalent to a 180 gr and a minimum of 2400 fps or faster for optimum bullet performance, keeping in mind to stay within SAAMI pressure (C.U.P.) for my particular firearm manufacturer.

So why use the heaviest bullet available for your caliber if not necessary?

 

[buffybr]

Here's a nice Roosevelt Sable that was shot in Mozambique back in 2015 with a Barnes 168 grain TTSX bullet.

 

[BRICKBURN]

Deadly accurate and effective one shot kill.
Thanks for the loan of the rifle and bullet Kurt.

 

[CoElkHunter]

Brickburn,
I use a shellholder in a Frankford Arsenal puller for whatever bullet I need to pull. It's much easier and faster than fiddling with collets. Both brass and bullets come out unharmed. Lyman makes one for large calibers. It's a big orange one and I got one for my 404 Jeffery. Might fit 416, too.

I've only ever used a RCBS "hammer" (inertia?) bullet puller (slammer?) for .270 and .308. But, I don't know how it would work on .458WM or any other big bore cartridge? Any thoughts? Thanks!

 

[fourfive8]

Actually the larger the caliber and heavier the bullet the better the inertia type puller works.

 

[CoElkHunter]

Actually the larger the caliber and heavier the bullet the better the inertia type puller works.

Thank you!

 

[BRICKBURN]

My only issue has been the length of the brass and bullet in the inertial puller.

 

[Ridgewalker]

Personally I don’t care for inertia pullers. Pretty messy IMO. I’ve destroyed a couple of them. I currently use either an RCBS collet puller (least bullet damage) or A Grip-n-Pull (can damage if not straight and firm grip):

Oops! I just realized I’m repeating myself! Sorry, I’m old!

 

[CoElkHunter]

My only issue has been the length of the brass and bullet in the inertial puller.

Good point when using longer cartridges! The .375 h & h may be too long?

 

[fourfive8]

The inertia puller I have (some cheap generic brand by Frankford Arsenal), has no problem with 375 HH length carts of COL of 3.6"- so dunno? It will even handle a slightly longer cart if needed. Once the bullet pops out I just hold the part of the puller with all the powder and bullet over a container and invert it while catching the bullet in my fingers like a sieve. The only marks on the bullet are superficial from the neck contact. The bullet is good for another go. It may help for extra length, if needed, to secure the collet on the case body ABOVE the belt (as shown in the following pics) then secure the collet really well by a good tightening of the locking nut. One or two good raps on a solid metal surface usually pops the bullet out. You can easily watch the process through the transparent walls of the puller body. Pics are of a 450 Watts with COL of 3.6"

 

[meigsbucks]

Good point when using longer cartridges! The .375 h & h may be too long?

I’ve used the RCBS inertia puller with a .338 RUM. Works fine.
As fourfive8 said, with an inertia puller, heavier bullets are easier to pull. Forget any of the .22’s.

 

[CoElkHunter]

The inertia puller I have (some cheap generic brand by Frankford Arsenal), has no problem with 375 HH length carts of COL of 3.6"- so dunno? It will even handle a slightly longer cart if needed. Once the bullet pops out I just hold the part of the puller with all the powder and bullet over a container and invert it while catching the bullet in my fingers like a sieve. The only marks on the bullet are superficial from the neck contact. The bullet is good for another go. It may help for extra length, if needed, to secure the collet on the case body ABOVE the belt (as shown in the following pics) then secure the collet really well by a good tightening of the locking nut. One or two good raps on a solid metal surface usually pops the bullet out. You can easily watch the process through the transparent walls of the puller body. Pics are of a 450 Watts with COL of 3.6" View attachment 294550View attachment 294551View attachment 294552

I have a forty plus year old RCBS inertia puller that I used on smaller calibers. The collet spring assembly broke a number of years ago. I just found and checked it. I forgot that my son figured out how to use the thin aluminum shell holder from a Lee case trimmer to hold the cartridge in place in the puller. It fits perfect when the top of the puller is screwed on. The puller has plenty of length for a .375 cartridge and a .458WM (probably a Lott too) width (of course any of the .375 family are the same width). It appears any case base diameter of .532 will fit. Problem solved! Thanks all for your info and input. I learn something from others here on AH almost every time I log on.

 

[CoElkHunter]

The inertia puller I have (some cheap generic brand by Frankford Arsenal), has no problem with 375 HH length carts of COL of 3.6"- so dunno? It will even handle a slightly longer cart if needed. Once the bullet pops out I just hold the part of the puller with all the powder and bullet over a container and invert it while catching the bullet in my fingers like a sieve. The only marks on the bullet are superficial from the neck contact. The bullet is good for another go. It may help for extra length, if needed, to secure the collet on the case body ABOVE the belt (as shown in the following pics) then secure the collet really well by a good tightening of the locking nut. One or two good raps on a solid metal surface usually pops the bullet out. You can easily watch the process through the transparent walls of the puller body. Pics are of a 450 Watts with COL of 3.6" View attachment 294550View attachment 294551View attachment 294552

Thanks! BTW, what is the parent case of the .450 Watts? Does it have the .532 rim diameter of the .375 cartridge family? Great looking cartridge! Thanks!

 

[fourfive8]

Yes, standard magnum. Currently only Quality Cartridge, that I'm aware of, sells the head stamped version but can be formed from Hornady basic belted mag brass and trimmed to 2.83". Just a hair longer than the Lott so both 458 WM and 458 Lott can be shot in it without issue. Use 458 Lott sizing die turned out slightly for sizing. The cartridge dates to the 50s- I believe Jack O'Connor used one.

 

[CoElkHunter]

Yes, standard magnum. Currently only Quality Cartridge, that I'm aware of, sells the head stamped version but can be formed from Hornady basic belted mag brass and trimmed to 2.83". Just a hair longer than the Lott so both 458 WM and 458 Lott can be shot in it without issue. Use 458 Lott sizing die turned out slightly for sizing. The cartridge dates to the 50s- I believe Jack O'Connor used one.

Very cool! Thanks!

 

[Alaska]

I have done a lot of research/testing of Barnes bullets and we have taken quite a number of animals. I have load data/testing/chrono results for a number of cartridges.
This is what I have learned:
Use TTSX and not TSX. They start opening sooner and are more reliable for expansion.

Select a lighter bullet as a Barnes bullet acts like a lead core bullet 30% heavier. This is very important.

Barnes bullets like speed and the faster you push them the more accurate they get. See above.

They give better terminal performance when pushed fast---Another reason to select a lighter bullet.

Seat the DEEP. Look at any box or Barnes factory loads and you will see the top relief groove just showing and they usually give excellent accuracy if you do the one other important thing before shooting them. I started measuring distance off the rifling(and having it close) and as I seated the bullet deeper accuracy improved. The deeper seating will also allow for a hotter load without pressure problems. I have a 257W with .250"+ jump and it will put 5-10 shots into one hole when I do my job. Other rifles do not have that much jump but .080"+ is not uncommon for great accuracy.............Start by seating the bullets so the top relief groove is showing and you will probably find no need to change it.

One important thing to do to avoid fouling and often better accuracy is to super clean your barrel. That means not using old #9! I use wipe-out foaming cleaner followed by Sweets 7.62 or Barnes CR-10. Then a finely I use Butches Bore Shine or another good regular cleaner. If you really think #9 does anything use it last. NOW that you have a super clean barrel ONLY shoot Barnes bullets. If I am testing different bullets I shoot the non-Barnes After shooting the Barnes NOT before. Any "fouling shots" need to be Barnes.

Use Barnes data ONLY for Barnes bullets. Sometimes Hodgdons has data for Barnes but be sure it is for TSX or TTSX(Data can be used interchangeably) and not the old X-Bullet or coated bullet. Sometimes Accurate has Barnes data. Barnes has data on their website and the newer manual has TSX/TTSX data. I have also gotten some data from mags and such.

I do not like to waste bullets so I pick the 2-4 powders with the top speeds and just load the max in the Barnes data. Not accepted method but never had a problem. Note some of the Barnes data is over 100% fill and I usually will not try the ones with 103%+ just because it is very hard(even with long drop tubes) to get it all in the case. Also I have spoke with(face to face) the Barnes people about starting at max loads and they told me there room to go above it. I do not do so usually but it shows that the max load is safe to shoot------Especially if you seat the bullets deep.

Follow these simple(but backwards from common wisdom) rules and you will have great ammo that is accurate and really puts down game.

I have data for 257R/25-06/257W/6.5X55/264Win mag/7-08/308win/30-06/300win mag/338win mag. I also have data for the Barnes VG in 204Ruger and 223. All data is over my Chrono and for accuracy........well as good as I can shoot on a given day If anyone wants data for these cartridges I have Barnes/Swift/Nosler/Hornady data and I have data minus the Barnes for other cartridges. PM me with an email and I can scan it to you.

Enjoyed your write up on Barnes Bullets
Plan on using the TSX 150gr in 30-06 and 308 Win. Do you have any good load details? Thanks and Hello from Alaska

 

[Ryan]

I have a good 150 grain TTSX load for 30-06 if you're interested. Gets just under MOA out of my Ruger #1.

Enjoyed your write up on Barnes Bullets
Plan on using the TSX 150gr in 30-06 and 308 Win. Do you have any good load details? Thanks and Hello from Alaska