JARD Ruger No 1 trigger

[roklok]

I just finished installing a Jard trigger in my new Ruger No1 .257 Weatherby. This is the second Jard I have installed in a Ruger #1. I just wanted to bring awareness to this trigger, as I know there are quite a few No. 1 fans on this site. They are a bit tedious to install and get adjusted, but they are well worth the time and expense to do so, particularly on No. 1s intended for longer range or precision shooting. Both I have installed I ordered with the 2.5 pound spring, with this install I was able to adjust the trigger pull weight from 1.5 to 2.5 pounds with the adjustment screw, I settled on 2 pounds even. They are fully adjustable for a crisp creep-free break, and overtravel is also adjustable. They are available with 1 pound to 4.5 pound springs when ordering. The Jard trigger is a simpler design than the stock trigger with its complicated linkage.

JARD Trigger Upgrade Kit for Ruger® No. 1

 

[Paul K]

They are a bit tedious to install and get adjusted, but they are well worth the time and expense to do so, particularly on No. 1s intended for longer range or

Can you explain a bit tedious to install. I am not a gunsmith but have installed serveral triggers on my rifles. I am familiar with the Jard triggers, I installed one on my Browning T-Bolt. Installation was simple , but adjustment was difficult. I need a trigger for my #1 in 9.3X74R and would like to do it myself and not send the rifle to them.
Paul

 

[roklok]

Here is the installation guide

https://jardinc.com/assets/images/Installation Guides/Ruger No 1 Installation Guide.pdf

Adjusting the screws is the tedious part, particularly the safety engagement screw, there just is not room to get an allen wrench on it. I set the safety screw out further than required with red locktite, then use a very fine file to remove the tip of the screw until safety engages properly.

Jard includes thread locker, but I prefer red locktite for this type of installation. On this install, I applied red locktite to the sear engagement screw, but the locktite set before I was able to get it adjusted. I then had to remove trigger and heat with a lighter to remove sear engagement screw and start over. The second time I used slow curing two part epoxy on the sear engagement screw so I had time to work, but I could be ensured it wont move after I have it adjusted properly.

On this rifle, the safety arm pivot pin was difficult to remove as well, I slightly deformed the tip of the pin even with a brass punch, as can be seen in my first pic. It still retains the spring properly so the deformation isn't enough to cause issues.

Here you can see the filed down safety engagement screw

And here you can see the slightly deformed tip of pin from removal. It was TIGHT. The spring has to be removed first, then pin driven out right to left.

 

[Paul K]

Thank you for your quick response. I can do that. And I appreciate you input. The triger that I installed on the T-Bolt is all steal and intricate and wasn't adjusted properly from the factory and was a pain in the posterior end to get adjusted correctly. It's not perfect but it's worth the money.
Thank You
Paul