Interarms Mark X 7x57 Mauser

i didn't read everything above yet, but 'had a similar issue with an old Steyr...take the butt plate off, using gorilla glue and soft, adjustable clamps available at any big box hardware store or a soft jaw vise (an adj angle workmate-type unit would work well-in this case with the metal removed). (following the directions to a tee-use warmer than room temp water to coat the area...then inject that glue in using the proper size (poked) hole on the applicator tip (you can push more in w/ the stick or knife), and then using the clamp(s), slowly click the lever until the crack closes shut. excess will come out, and you can remove it when it sets up but not hardened with a softer material (i.e. popcicle stick or plastic knife.) This isn't a particularly high pressure area as the load is spread out upon firing (and the 757 doesn't impart much energy.) When you put the butt plate back on it can serve as a clamp. You could also install the rubber pad of your choice, BUT install a 3rd, likely smaller screw to catch the formerly broken away part and act as a clamp to the repair (if the butt screw is outside the area of breakage.) Yes, pls show us the entire rifle. Very cool! My adhesive recommendations worked on a 375 pistol grip area that received a LOT of recoil energy and it never failed again. IDT you'll need to pin this one as the butt pad could act as a clamp with an additional (hidden) screw! Some may even say drill a small hole centered on the end of the crack to prevent further cracking (but you'd have to fill that with a properly colored wood filler-it's do able, but probably not a high stress area, once properly glued.) That was probably from someone dropping it on the butt (even slamming against a rack or safe floor.) Good luck and show us the results! I mean something akin to a red Silver'sTM pad which doesn't add much pull length. 757 needs no full-thickness recoil pad, but an attractive solid butt pad.
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I have a Interarms Mark X as well. Shoots 145gr bullets exceptionally well. I was messing around with some Speer 145gr Gold Match bullets that I had lying around. They would shoot under 0.30" (5 shot group at 100yds) which I thought was impressive.
 
156 grn sako factory ammunition is good, but from what I have read on here it seems hard or impossible to find in usa....think @RAVEN ROCKS PRECISION had the 156grn for reloading recently...also like their 170 grn bullets. Would like to try the sellier and bellot but the one shop here who stocks it only has the 140 grn loads....
 
My 7x57 likes heavy for caliber bullets. Last year in Namibia I used S&B 173gr SPCE. I wasn’t very impressed with them. Cup and core bullet that broke up very easily it appeared. Nosler Partition have always worked well.
 
My 7x57 likes heavy for caliber bullets. Last year in Namibia I used S&B 173gr SPCE. I wasn’t very impressed with them. Cup and core bullet that broke up very easily it appeared. Nosler Partition have always worked well.
I’m sorry to hear that. I just bought a couple of boxes to test them.
 
My 7x57 likes heavy for caliber bullets. Last year in Namibia I used S&B 173gr SPCE. I wasn’t very impressed with them. Cup and core bullet that broke up very easily it appeared. Nosler Partition have always worked well.
Yes those bullets are soft. Good for whitettail, roe deer and such.
 
I’m sorry to hear that. I just bought a couple of boxes to test them.
Don’t despair, all is not lost ! I’ve used them on deer here at home with good results. They worked ok on warthogs, a relatively thin skinned animal. Just not so good on oryx which have a much thicker skin.
 
I'm trying to decide on a scope for this rifle. I was thinking a 3-9x40 with a 1" tube but now wonder if a lower powered scope might work just as well.

I have an older Bausch & Lomb Balvar 1.5-6x36 that is quite clear with a typical duplex reticle. Looks would be good as it is slimmer just like the rifle but I wonder the efficacy. Does that extra power in the 3-9 scope really make that much difference if I keep my shots to 200 yards or less?

What say you?
 
I thought you were just looking for slim, light scopes in general. If you like the one you have, use it. I'm not familiar with Balvar.
 
I thought you were just looking for slim, light scopes in general. If you like the one you have, use it. I'm not familiar with Balvar.
The Balvar I have was made in Japan. While marked Bausch & Lomb, I'm pretty sure it was made by Bushnell who had licensed the name. I'm guessing this scope was in the 1980s or 90s. The glass compares well with the Leupold VX-II. My scope has what appear to be Kimber or early Warne Premier QD rings on it.

I guess my question which I didn't clarify too well is whether I am limiting myself too much with a scope that only goes to 6 power.
 
Well the limitation is totally personal. I have worse eyesight and now hunting in prairies more where longer distance shots are common, I prefer more power now. Up until few years ago and in the bush 7 or 8 was max and 4-6 ideal. Never liked the 3-9 variety but they are practical and can still be light. In the bush it does get darker sooner so I started going for brighter optics and that meant larger objective lenses and more weight. Now I'm so blind, the bigger lenses do not help much so I'm back to basic scopes in the bush and I just leave earlier. In the plains I use more magnification but my biggest ones are 10, 12 and now 14 power. If the elk looks too small in 10 or 12 power, it's too far for the non-magnums I use anyhow. I would not lug my big target scope around hunting regardless.
 
I think 6 is the perfect top end magnification for that rifle..............FWB
 
jpr9954, That's a really nice rifle you have there and to answer your question about scoping it, the 1.5-6 will be a perfect match for it.
 

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Everyone always thinks about the worst thing that can happen, maybe ask yourself what's the best outcome that could happen?
Big areas means BIG ELAND BULLS!!
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autofire wrote on LIMPOPO NORTH SAFARIS's profile.
Do you have any cull hunts available? 7 days, daily rate plus per animal price?
 
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