How To: Custom Stocks

[NoStepOnSnek]

I’m looking at restocking my Ruger No.1 in 458 WM if financially/competently feasible. I have some woodworking experience, but mostly home/farm maintenance based, and no fine woodworking experience, and currently no tools.
What is the process for getting a custom stock made? I would like to hear about any experience with getting the stock made and doing final fit DIY style, as well as getting the stock fitted professionally.
What is the expected cost from start to finish? If I go through with it, I wouldn’t want something too fancy, but just good looking dense wood.
Is final fit “easy enough” for someone with minimal experience?

 

[AZDAVE]

Having done several #1's and bolt gun stocks.

The #1 I would call George at Tree Bone Carving. AND PURCHASE A STOCK SET FROM HIM!!!

I have 2 sitting on the bench to do a 7x57 (Carlo Walnut) and a 458 (english Walnut)

The first think you do is put your dremel tool up and don't go near it till you have the stock set finished!!!!!!

I use files and hand scrapers to get the butt stock and forend fitted. Then I put a small amount of glass bedding at the front of the stock to action faces.

The forend attachment bolt is the hardest part of the work as it requires a accurate hole drilled and secondary bigger hole to a shallow level so the bolt is below the surface of the wood. NECG makes a special bit for this operation. I measure a number of times and get the angles right and set it up on my mill and drill the first hole, and use a end mill to do the second. Can all be done with hand tools.

Sand to 400gr level and apply the finish. Checkering I send to someone that does it as a job as mine isn't there yet.

The cost will mostly be based on what wood you select. from plain and functional to over the top exhibition grade woods. My bet guess is $375 to thousands.

 

[AustinM]

Having done several #1's and bolt gun stocks.

The #1 I would call George at Tree Bone Carving. AND PURCHASE A STOCK SET FROM HIM!!!

I have 2 sitting on the bench to do a 7x57 (Carlo Walnut) and a 458 (english Walnut)

The first think you do is put your dremel tool up and don't go near it till you have the stock set finished!!!!!!

I use files and hand scrapers to get the butt stock and forend fitted. Then I put a small amount of glass bedding at the front of the stock to action faces.

The forend attachment bolt is the hardest part of the work as it requires a accurate hole drilled and secondary bigger hole to a shallow level so the bolt is below the surface of the wood. NECG makes a special bit for this operation. I measure a number of times and get the angles right and set it up on my mill and drill the first hole, and use a end mill to do the second. Can all be done with hand tools.

Sand to 400gr level and apply the finish. Checkering I send to someone that does it as a job as mine isn't there yet.

The cost will mostly be based on what wood you select. from plain and functional to over the top exhibition grade woods. My bet guess is $375 to thousands.

Was coming to give my recommendation of Treebone as well! Wonderful guy to do business with and even has details on how to inlet the stock on his website!
If you do prefer to see the wood, before purchasing, then he will not be the guy for you in that instance. Personally you can't beat his patterns in efficiency and cost. So, worst case scenario you find the wood you want to use (I recommend Roger Vardy) and send it to Treebone for him to carve.
Good luck on your soon to be stock, remember to add some pictures here for us to drool over!

 

[NoStepOnSnek]

Well, stock set is ordered from George at Tree Bone. Like yall said, seemed like a great guy over the phone, and seemed real keen on getting me the right blank for my project. Thanks for the recommendations. I plan to update this thread as I get updates and work on the project

 

[steve white]

Beware, it's addictive. But you'll be proud of what you do.

 

[steve white]

I would be remiss if I did not mention one very helpful idea. If you have a stock, or can get someone to loan you a stock from their fancy rifle, there are people who operate duplicator machines that can get you within 5 thou. of the pattern supplied, including inletting. For example you could paint tape over a Dakota to eliminate risk of marring and come up with a stock close enough to easily complete. You can also resculpt an existing stock to be what you think it should look like and then duplicate it. The duplicator doesn't care if you sculpted Bondo to come to the right shape.

 

[Mountainshadows]

I have a Dumoulin large ring Mauser action along with a large chunk of Claro walnut with some nice curl in it. I will be building myself a .375 H&H at some point. I am just beginning on a Hawken build from parts, that I hope to have completed by this season's Heritage Muzzleloader time frame.
I would suggest the following book. Very detailed pictures and explanations covering a semi-inletted stock and a non-inletted stock.

 

[Mountainshadows]

I also have a stock duplicator and I will get me stock to pre-fit stage with this.

 

[NoStepOnSnek]

I’m thinking about potentially adding a recoil reducer while I’m at it, do yall have any recommendations for brands/types? Is there anything wrong with filling a void with tungsten shot?

 

[NoStepOnSnek]

Anyone have any recommendations for a good chisel set?

 

[Nhoro]

I’m thinking about potentially adding a recoil reducer while I’m at it, do yall have any recommendations for brands/types? Is there anything wrong with filling a void with tungsten shot?

I filled 2 x 458 cartridges with lead and fitted them into the butt to balance my rifle. Tungsten shot and epoxy would probably be better. It is quite easy to drill a few holes and fill with shot and epoxy. Just make sure to ram down the shot. You don't want a loose shot or 2 to rattle. Make sure to balance your rifle back and front. I don't think Mercury reducers do anything but add weight, and tungsten in epoxy is a better option in my mind.

 

[AustinM]

I filled 2 x 458 cartridges with lead and fitted them into the butt to balance my rifle. Tungsten shot and epoxy would probably be better. It is quite easy to drill a few holes and fill with shot and epoxy. Just make sure to ram down the shot. You don't want a loose shot or 2 to rattle. Make sure to balance your rifle back and front. I don't think Mercury reducers do anything but add weight, and tungsten in epoxy is a better option in my mind.

The idea behind mercury reducers is to add weight and to also cause a shift in the direction of momentum to slow the wave; therefore, reducing felt recoil. Now whether that works, or not I'm not sure, but I'm comfortably shooting some heavy hitting rifles with them. Which makes me experience far more comfortable.