Help me build the perfect practice rifle

[Ontario Hunter]

Thanks for all the responses. Pretty much confirmed what I was thinking. Build a match for my .375 or as close as I can get. Mine is sort of a safari express, it was a limited edition made for SCI 25 or so years ago that’s basically set up like a safari express but doesn’t actually have that designation on it or in the paper work.

Only difference is I’ll probably go with 22-250 instead of .223 which most people recommended. That’s just because I’m a contrarian on some things.

I like a couple respondents who don’t seem to like practice, I love to shoot at anything any time. Not uncommon to for me to shoot 250-300 rounds a day at clays a few days in a row. I love shooting my rifles and just looking to make it a little more economical and comfortable to put more rounds downrange and get benefit out of it.

I’ll be on the lookout for a full size .22 lr as well just because that sounds fun.

I presume you mean "Unlike a couple of respondents who don't seem to like practice ..." Or I could flatter myself by believing you actually like me?

I also spend quite a bit of time shooting clay targets (mostly skeet and sporting clays these days though formerly competed in trap). But moving targets is much more enjoyable than punching paper. And a lot more useful. These days I don't miss many birds in the field. At one point this fall I shot nine pheasants without a miss. Recently I joined a rifle club (got fed up with the garbage left at the gravel pit and didn't want to be associated with that crowd). Typically when I do use the range now (during the week) I'm alone and finding I like that. Nothing fancy but a nice facility in the peaceful woods. I may be spending more time shooting my rifles there. The trap club has certainly lost some appeal. Most of my friends have either quit or died. And it's become quite expensive.

Keep us posted on how your search for that 22-250 turns out.

 

[shootist~]

Yes - something that heats up the barrel quickly and has a radically different trajectory will be perfect.

 

[One Day...]

Thanks for all the responses. Pretty much confirmed what I was thinking. Build a match for my .375 or as close as I can get. Mine is sort of a safari express, it was a limited edition made for SCI 25 or so years ago that’s basically set up like a safari express but doesn’t actually have that designation on it or in the paper work.

Only difference is I’ll probably go with 22-250 instead of .223 which most people recommended. That’s just because I’m a contrarian on some things.

I like a couple respondents who don’t seem to like practice, I love to shoot at anything any time. Not uncommon to for me to shoot 250-300 rounds a day at clays a few days in a row. I love shooting my rifles and just looking to make it a little more economical and comfortable to put more rounds downrange and get benefit out of it.

I’ll be on the lookout for a full size .22 lr as well just because that sounds fun.

The 22-250 is a great round

It's only shortcoming for the purpose of THIS specific discussion is that it fails the inexpensive ammo test for volume practice

 

[One Day...]

Practicing hitting (accurately) at the distance one is shooting at...

This is obvious, right?

Well, let us look at this a little closer, still from a practice perspective

As shootist~ alludes to, aside from the cost perspective I previously mentioned, the .22-250 super flat shooting trajectory may be a little counterproductive for Safari practice shooting.

Why?

Because in Africa, you will likely shoot PG at random between 25 and 600 lbs., and at random between 50 and 300+ yards (maybe 400 yards if you are a really very experienced game shot). Some shoot longer, but it is rarely necessary and often results in wounded game that either cost them a wasted trophy fee, or a precious half-day of safari time, or most often: both

Between 25 and 600 lbs. at 50 to, say, 350 yards, most PG calibers will require to account one way of the other for trajectory drop.

The .223 is a good practice choice from this perspective too, because it too requires trajectory adjustment when you walk back and forth with the shooting sticks between 50 and 350 yards in order to take shots at all distances.

Which prompts the point regarding training: how to deal with range?

A few thoughts...

Regarding scopes, to simply SEE a 6" plate at 300 yards, the classic variable 1-6 (Europe) or 3-9 etc. (USA) can be a little challenging for aging eyes. Shooting at game that has a 6" vital zone is different, because the whole game itself, even something as small as Duiker, is considerably larger than the 6" vital area, and we know where the 6" vital area is in the game, so standard power variables are fine. Not so on plates, you generally need higher magnification... Do not scope that .223 (or .22-250) with too low magnification

Regarding trajectory drop, for generations folks sighted (and many still do) for the Maximum Point-Blank Range (MPBR), depending on the animal they hunted, repeat: depending on the animal they hunted.

The concept of the MPBR is to aim at the center of the vital area, and let the shot land neither more, nor less, than half the vital area diameter, higher or lower than the point of aim at the center of the vital area.

For a small animal with a 6" vital area, aim at the center of the vital area, and let the shot land neither more, nor less, than 3" higher or lower than the point of aim at the center of the vital area.

But even with relatively flat shooting calibers, the MPBR 6" is relatively short. For example a .30-06 shooting a 180 gr bullet with a good ballistic coefficient (e.g. TTSX 0.484 G1BC) at 2,750 fps, has a MPBR 6" of 273 yards, for a zero 2 3/4" high at 100 yards.

Of course, if the target is bigger, for example a 12" vital area, then the shot can land 6" higher or lower than point of aim at the center of the vital area, and that same .30-06 load now has a MPBR 12" of 359 yards, for a zero 4 3/4" high at 100 yards.

This works great ... when in America or Europe, you only have one tag for one predetermined animal: you just zero for this specific animal's vital area.

But in Africa, when on the same morning you may shoot a Duiker with a 4" vital area at 50 yards and a Kudu with an 18" vital area at 350 yards, for which do you sight???? And regardless of the one you decide to sight for, how much do you hold over, or under, on the other at, for example, 185 or 275 yards??????????????

THAT needs to be practiced, a whole lot, and this is where a practice cartridge that has a trajectory "somewhat" similar to that of the hunting cartridge, is very, very useful.

Sharing a little secret...

I used the MPBR, extremely successfully, for decades, in Europe, then in America. Things were simple, I knew exactly what I had a tag for and could not shoot anything else, therefore I sighted for the MPBR of the vital area of the game I was hunting and just limited my shots to ~300 meters, simply aiming dead center of the vital area. That worked well too because in those days the range-finder was your naked eyes and your scope reticle (when you knew how to use it, wink, wink), and judging distance was, let us just say, a lot less certain, so no one, even the crazies, attempted too much to play sniper and the MPBR was good enough out to realistic hunting distances. All good...

I used the MPBR too on my first Safari. Not so good... If you are sighted for a Kudu size MPBR, dropping Springbok, Impala, Duiker, Vaal Rhebok, anywhere between 50 and 350 yards, becomes, let us just say, a lot less certain...

It is a bit easier the other way around (sight for 6" MPBR then hold over for bigger and/or farther animals) but holding over accurately the right amount requires considerable practice.

To make a long story short, the scopes on my .257 Wby and .300 Wby barrels, which are my PG barrels, and therefore the scope on my .223 practice barrel, are now bullet drop compensator (BDC) scopes with custom BDC rings calibrated to my load in my barrel (hint: google Kenton Industries). Things are a lot more certain, and a lot more ethical: range quickly and accurately 275 yards with the laser range-finder, turn the turret to 275, aim, shoot, kill cleanly, and practice the same drill with the .223.

 

[Russ16]

Practicing hitting (accurately) at the distance one is shooting at...

This is obvious, right?

Well, let us look at this a little closer, still from a practice perspective

As shootist~ alludes to, aside from the cost perspective I previously mentioned, the .22-250 super flat shooting trajectory may be a little counterproductive for Safari practice shooting.

Why?

Because in Africa, you will likely shoot PG at random between 25 and 600 lbs., and at random between 50 and 300+ yards (maybe 400 yards if you are a really very experienced game shot). Some shoot longer, but it is rarely necessary and often results in wounded game that either cost them a wasted trophy fee, or a precious half-day of safari time, or most often: both

Between 25 and 600 lbs. at 50 to, say, 350 yards, most PG calibers will require to account one way of the other for trajectory drop.

The .223 is a good practice choice from this perspective too, because it too requires trajectory adjustment when you walk back and forth with the shooting sticks between 50 and 350 yards in order to take shots at all distances.

Which prompts the point regarding training: how to deal with range?

A few thoughts...

Regarding scopes, to simply SEE a 6" plate at 300 yards, the classic variable 1-6 (Europe) or 3-9 etc. (USA) can be a little challenging for aging eyes. Shooting at game that has a 6" vital zone is different, because the whole game itself, even something as small as Duiker, is considerably larger than the 6" vital area, and we know where the 6" vital area is in the game, so standard power variables are fine. Not so on plates, you generally need higher magnification... Do not scope that .223 (or .22-250) with too low magnification

Regarding trajectory drop, for generations folks sighted (and many still do) for the Maximum Point-Blank Range (MPBR), depending on the animal they hunted, repeat: depending on the animal they hunted.

The concept of the MPBR is to aim at the center of the vital area, and let the shot land neither more, nor less, than half the vital area diameter, higher or lower than the point of aim at the center of the vital area.

For a small animal with a 6" vital area, aim at the center of the vital area, and let the shot land neither more, nor less, than 3" higher or lower than the point of aim at the center of the vital area.

But even with relatively flat shooting calibers, the MPBR 6" is relatively short. For example a .30-06 shooting a 180 gr bullet with a good ballistic coefficient (e.g. TTSX 0.484 G1BC) at 2,750 fps, has a MPBR 6" of 273 yards, for a zero 2 3/4" high at 100 yards.

Of course, if the target is bigger, for example a 12" vital area, then the shot can land 6" higher or lower than point of aim at the center of the vital area, and that same .30-06 load now has a MPBR 12" of 359 yards, for a zero 4 3/4" high at 100 yards.

This works great ... when in America or Europe, you only have one tag for one predetermined animal: you just zero for this specific animal's vital area.

But in Africa, when on the same morning you may shoot a Duiker with a 4" vital area at 50 yards and a Kudu with an 18" vital area at 350 yards, for which do you sight???? And regardless of the one you decide to sight for, how much do you hold over, or under, on the other at, for example, 185 or 275 yards??????????????

THAT needs to be practiced, a whole lot, and this is where a practice cartridge that has a trajectory "somewhat" similar to that of the hunting cartridge, is very, very useful.

Sharing a little secret...

I used the MPBR, extremely successfully, for decades, in Europe, then in America. Things were simple, I knew exactly what I had a tag for and could not shoot anything else, therefore I sighted for the MPBR of the vital area of the game I was hunting and just limited my shots to ~300 meters, simply aiming dead center of the vital area. That worked well too because in those days the range-finder was your naked eyes and your scope reticle (when you knew how to use it, wink, wink), and judging distance was, let us just say, a lot less certain, so no one, even the crazies, attempted too much to play sniper and the MPBR was good enough out to realistic hunting distances. All good...

I used the MPBR too on my first Safari. Not so good... If you are sighted for a Kudu size MPBR, dropping Springbok, Impala, Duiker, Vaal Rhebok, anywhere between 50 and 350 yards, becomes, let us just say, a lot less certain...

It is a bit easier the other way around (sight for 6" MPBR then hold over for bigger and/or farther animals) but holding over accurately the right amount requires considerable practice.

To make a long story short, the scopes on my .257 Wby and .300 Wby barrels, which are my PG barrels, and therefore the scope on my .223 practice barrel, are now bullet drop compensator (BDC) scopes with custom BDC rings calibrated to my load in my barrel (hint: google Kenton Industries). Things are a lot more certain, and a lot more ethical: range quickly and accurately 275 yards with the laser range-finder, turn the turret to 275, aim, shoot, kill cleanly, and practice the same drill with the .223.

I appreciate all of this. Inchoate said this in the first post. Trajectory is not a huge concern for me. I won’t shoot a game animal (varmints like prairie dogs excluded) over 200 yards. Pretty much any rifle I’m going to shoot is pretty close to the same at that distance. Dangerous game I’m not going to shoot near that distance.

This meant to say anyone who does is wrong. Or that I’m saying my way is better. Just that shooting game at long distance isn’t interesting to me. I did it when I was younger. Never supper long but around 300 yards and ultimately I found I was less satisfied with those kills than the closer ones. So I chose to limit myself to the distance I find most rewarding.

Thanks again for all the responses Greta things to think about. I love thinking about guns and ballistics and shooting. Lots of great food for thought here.

As for the 22-250 not being quite as economical well that’s what reloading for.