Head north

[cajunchefray]

The crossing into Zimbabwe over Beit Bridge probably happened during dinner, it was totally painless - passports just magically got stamped, I could get to love rail travel. The night stop was in Gwanda and a few hundred metres off in the dark night a three stamp mill lulled us to sleep with it's rythmical kadunk kadunk kadunk. The ka is the is the cam contacting the tappet to lift it up and the dunk is the shoe crashing down onto the die below with the hopefully gold-laden rock between. The bush night is very seldom silent; where there is humanity you either hear their toils or their celebrations when the toils are occasionally successful. And where there are no humans the wild animals do much the same.
Rolling into Bulawayo there is no mistaking that this was the principal rail hub in a byegone era, the track multiplies into two, then four, then umpteen lines, some disappearing into huge sheds that must once have serviced steam locos. And everywhere derelict wagons that once hauled cattle, people and minerals. It still happens of course, but this is the age of eighteen wheelers, not bogeys.
After yet another delicious lunch parked in the clean station we were bussed to the Motopos hills for an afternoon of culture. The rock paintings were brought to life by our excellent guide Ian Harmer whose knowledge of the San is vast and meaningful. I mention his name specifically because Ian is worth getting in touch with if you come to Zimbabwe on safari, and he may still hunt I think. More importantly he is a Series Land Rover man and his Series 2 is probably the best example in Southern Africa. Sorry, I cant resist showing it to you:
View attachment 478589
Next up was the visit to Rhode's grave, I have been many times before, but Ian added a new dimension to this; did you know Rhodes was buried not looking south over his beloved World's View, but feet north, because that was where he was going, "to Cairo".
View attachment 478591

Hello Kevin, Thanks for sharing the African adventure most of us dream about. I have been working for years, to go back to Southern Africa, and re-create this Old-World experience with my bride, Stella. Well done, Sir. Please keep the stories and pictures coming.

I think I could bring my double rifle for a go at Cape Buffalo, and my wife would enjoy some sport shooting of guinea fowl or francolin

CR

 

[sestoppelman]

What a great trip! Thanks for the story and pics, love the LR!

 

[Rare Breed]

What a great trip! Thanks for the story and pics, love the LR!

As we say in America Kevin “you clean up well”. Thanks so much for sharing your trip with us!

 

[Kevin Peacocke]

Hello Kevin, Thanks for sharing the African adventure most of us dream about. I have been working for years, to go back to Southern Africa, and re-create this Old-World experience with my bride, Stella. Well done, Sir. Please keep the stories and pictures coming.

I think I could bring my double rifle for a go at Cape Buffalo, and my wife would enjoy some sport shooting of guinea fowl or francolin

CR

Do it CR, Africa ir ready and waiting.

 

[Kevin Peacocke]

Tess adores her Courteney Safari ostrich grain boots, they are smart enough to wear anywhere, and she does, but they have always been a little tight. So we ordered the next size up through Fereday's in Harare some weeks back and forgot all about it. Getting into Bulawayo I phoned the factory and yes, the boots were ready, and yes they would gladly deliver them to the train. What a superb little company Courteney is!
As we gently departed Bulawayo I was struck by a real peace in the constancy of the place, the nostalgia, the happiness that they have found in being in second place in national terms, but first in life.
The last leg to the Falls goes through Hwange game reserve and an afternoon drive was organised through The Hide. This is the same ownership as Changa camp whom you recall we drove to in Carruthers on the last adventure and they have a strong tie to the railways. We didn't get to see the actual Hide camp, but will do so on the planned drive to Maun, especially to see their little railway museum. The game drive produced elephant, wildebeest, impala, steenbuck, lion, zebra and one vehicle had the finale of a leopard close to the track. The evening culminated in a cocktails and snacks around a fire in the bush, very welcome in the unusually chilly evening for Hwange.

 

[cpr0312]

Thanks for taking us along, enjoyed it!

 

[Kevin Peacocke]

Finally right on time at 10:00 our magnificent train eased into Victoria Falls station to a welcome of the traditional dancers and a long red carpet leading to the the Grand Old Lady , the Victoria Falls Hotel. Established in 1904 this is the oldest formal hotel in the country that has served under five flags. You don't come here to watch the rugby and quaff beer, this is the realm of high teas, formal dinners and history in it's every fibre. We only left the hotel once to wander the town briefly - there is no need to, you view the falls themselves and the famous bridge from the verandah.
Those of you who may have stayed here know the grounds can be visited frequently by warthogs, a mongoose family or perhaps a bushbuck or two. All are welcome, but not the baboons. One mid-morning from our room I spied a groundsman in his khaki tunic stalking along with a rifle of all things. He took aim and from the report it was a 0.22. All hell broke loose, baboons screaching and crashing off. I can't say whether his shot fould it's mark, but the baboons took him seriously enough. More surprising in this day and age is that nobody took the slightest notice - how refreshing.
A short flight a few days later and this journey is complete. I did ask Rovos if they would entertain hosting a hunt and the answer was a loud yes. The easiest would be all in South Africa, probably a 14 day affair taking in a plains area, birds and Limpopo for buffalo. They can accomodate up to 40 passengers of which 12 may be guns. I am still awaiting prices, but this will be a once of a lifetime event if we could pull it off - read sell the farm.

 

[Pheroze]

Thank you for another grand adventure Kevin. I am glad you and your wife can enjoy such things together

 

[Rick HOlbert]

Back in Johannesburg for a quick shop to pick up an Akubra hat and on the way to the historic and beautiful Rovos Rail station in Pretoria. We fell in love with the place immediately, the grand old age of fine travel is alive and well ladies and gentlemen and the sparkling wine and canapes set the mood perfectly for this epic mini-adventure, destination Victoria Falls.
You may recall some time ago that there was a trip planned that was to have begun in Walvis Bay, then by freighter to Cape Town, then the Wine Route, Rovos to Victoria Falls and finally a double rifle buffalo hunt in the Landies. Well it has proved to be so daunting to organise consecutively that we decided to break it up into sections. The buffalo hunt to the Save came first, which I wrote up recently, but because the buff gave me the slip there will have to be a sequel! Next leg was the Rovos Rail trip that is the subject of this report, and in the future the water part will probably be down the Nile on the Steam Ship Sudan, made famous by the Agatha Christie novel Death on the Nile. Somewhere inbetween will be the Cape Wine Route.
Anyway, on with the story. After parading one of their glorious steam locomotives the main train was shunted in and we boarded in the late afternoon, settling into the spacious suite. There are three classes: Pullman, Deluxe and Royal, we chose a Deluxe and it was just perfect with a huge double bed, mini lounge and bathroom. What a change from the school boy train travel I remember, probably worth waiting the sixty interveneing years for.
one is expected to dress formally for dinner, and pre-cocktails are served in the rear lounge adjacent to the open observation car. It was pretty cold on the deck in the evening and my suggestion of a fire pit raised an eyebrow or two!
Dinner is a four course event, excellent food as you would expect and servings just right for me, although Tess requested half portions. The emphasis was on hearty rather than too fancy and I liked that, i fact prawns only arrived once. What was particularly special was the wine pairing, they got it right every time.
The train ambles along at a very relaxed pace, taking four nights to reach Vic Falls, and it stops every night somewhere for a solid night's sleep.
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Kevin you certainly know how to live the good life. LOL! I wish one day on one of my trips to Africa to spend some time just enjoying some of the places you have shared with us. My hat is off to you sir.

 

[cls]

Fantastic tale, I always enjoy your reports of your travels. Have to ask, are you really as relaxed as portrayed in your travel reports? If so I really need to know your secret....

 

[Kevin Peacocke]

Fantastic tale, I always enjoy your reports of your travels. Have to ask, are you really as relaxed as portrayed in your travel reports? If so I really need to know your secret....

Interesting question @cls, I think so. I am sort of retired and my business is in excellent hands, my daughters', both of them. I have no debts, and just enough income to play. I am healthy and I know God, that is enough to relax!

 

[cls]

Thanks, I'm there as well but sure not as relaxed as you. Must be in the DNA or maybe the Zimbabwe air you have been breathing

 

[Randy Bo]

The first night was spent on the train in South Africa in a place called Pyramid, and by midday we were traversing the Soutpansberg. What beautiful scenery, the tracks follow the course of a river through a gorge and it is spectacular; sheer rock formations with alloes clinging on for dear life. As the country opened up a bit what struck me was the game fences, neat, tidy and well maintained. On the one side of the tracks there would be messy human habitation in the frequent villages, and on the other side an orderly fence, we even saw impala and Nyala in their pristine bush containment. Can you imagine the chaos without those fences?
On the north side of the Soutpansberg one starts to encounter baobabs and the typical Limpopo veld looks so very inviting for a stroll with a double, this would be great buffalo country. This is the time to be out on the observation car in the open warm air, G&T in hand making new acquaintances. A few of my new friends were outdoors people, but surprisingly not a single hunter. Bankers, lawyers, a pilot, a few professional artists and a wonderful elderly retired British couple who had been on about thirty ship cruises, but only two trains. The old boy was a bit on the portly side and found the passageways a real challenge. Then there was the mysterious Lady Sophie with her young daughter, just touring Africa perhaps to get away from the tabloids.
lunch and dinners are heralded by a gong and it is a very relaxed affair watching the world go by over a gently rocking glass of chardonnay.
View attachment 478446

Hello Kevin,
I noticed the “RR ties” appear to be concrete vs wood. Is this normal in your part of the world?
I have really enjoyed your report.

 

[Kevin Peacocke]

Hello Kevin,
I noticed the “RR ties” appear to be concrete vs wood. Is this normal in your part of the world?
I have really enjoyed your report.

Hi Randy, yes all concrete now, the teak ones are long gone, and the steel ones too.

 

[WAB]

Finally right on time at 10:00 our magnificent train eased into Victoria Falls station to a welcome of the traditional dancers and a long red carpet leading to the the Grand Old Lady , the Victoria Falls Hotel. Established in 1904 this is the oldest formal hotel in the country that has served under five flags. You don't come here to watch the rugby and quaff beer, this is the realm of high teas, formal dinners and history in it's every fibre. We only left the hotel once to wander the town briefly - there is no need to, you view the falls themselves and the famous bridge from the verandah.
Those of you who may have stayed here know the grounds can be visited frequently by warthogs, a mongoose family or perhaps a bushbuck or two. All are welcome, but not the baboons. One mid-morning from our room I spied a groundsman in his khaki tunic stalking along with a rifle of all things. He took aim and from the report it was a 0.22. All hell broke loose, baboons screaching and crashing off. I can't say whether his shot fould it's mark, but the baboons took him seriously enough. More surprising in this day and age is that nobody took the slightest notice - how refreshing.
A short flight a few days later and this journey is complete. I did ask Rovos if they would entertain hosting a hunt and the answer was a loud yes. The easiest would be all in South Africa, probably a 14 day affair taking in a plains area, birds and Limpopo for buffalo. They can accomodate up to 40 passengers of which 12 may be guns. I am still awaiting prices, but this will be a once of a lifetime event if we could pull it off - read sell the farm.
View attachment 478785View attachment 478787View attachment 478788View attachment 478784

On one of our visits there he was shooting a Remington 12C. I have my grandfather’s so I knew the rifle immediately. We had quite a chat once he realized that I heartily approved of his work!

Truly a grand hotel. Thank you for sharing.

 

[Kevin Peacocke]

For those who are interested in rail I learned that one of the greatest problems Rovos faces is the deteriorating tracks, either from un-evenness or the expansion gaps not being maintained. There is also a problem of sleepers not being replaced and gaps of unsupported rail. The net effect is that the wheel life is reduced and the only cure short of more frequent change-outs is to go slower. That isn't the end of the world though as it also reduces fuel consumption and general wear and tear. Just take more books. The tracks are apparently in better condition in Zimbabwe than South Africa. Amazingly all the way through South Africa and most of Zimbabwe there was strong phone signal, so if you have to deal with an issue back at the office there is no problem.
This particular stretch between Sawmills and Hwange is one of the longest straight stretches in the world - 90 miles.

 

[Tintin]

What an amazing trip.

Thanks for having us tag along vicariously.

 

[geoff rath]

Thank you so much, Kevin; I have assiduously watched a TV coverage of Rovos rail, and as an ex-rail worker, the idea of that journey appeals to me greatly. Combined with a hunt, my life would be near complete. That is how I wish to return to Afrika ...

 

[shotgungibbs]

I enjoyed "our trip" as usual Kevin. Thank you again for taking us along with you!

 

[Mopani]

The first night was spent on the train in South Africa in a place called Pyramid, and by midday we were traversing the Soutpansberg. What beautiful scenery, the tracks follow the course of a river through a gorge and it is spectacular; sheer rock formations with alloes clinging on for dear life.

The Soutpansberg area was my home for a couple of years, I even owned a farm there. To me that part of South Africa is the most beautiful one of the entire country.