RayAtkinson
AH fanatic
Depends on the gun make and model..A mod. 70 needs the bottom, sides and front of the recoil lug taped with two layers of paper tape, then you will have contact in the rear of the recoil lug only and the pad on which it lays..
A Mauser is bets just set in the glass and tight all around, glass the recoil lug full, the pad, and the tang, 2"s of the chamber area and tape the rest of the barrel to free float it or glass the tang and barrel tight in glass...both seem to work with the Mausers..and Ive done a couple of hundred of them..If by chance the gun won't shoot then scrape the barrel channel to give it free floating ( even if you used the tape) do not leave a gap between the barrel and wood, undercut the wood...
Once you get the bedding compound where you want it use a hair dryer to warm the glass, then you won't have any air bubbles or gaps.. Don't glass anything between the Lug and the tang, just set the tang in glass, tape the tang sides and rear or you can scrape it out later when hardened..You don't want the tang pushing on the inletting in the rear, needs a very small amount of free space so the wood doesn't split out in time. stay away from the triggers..glass the bottom metal fore and aft. I fill with clay and push it out when I set the barreled action, in a couple of hours I will twist the screws just a bit and then tighten them, so they don't freeze up, when done I drill out the holes to size..
The more you do the easier and more professional it gets..go slow and learn..The best way is to study hands on with someone that has glassed a lot of rifles and you have seen his work....sometimes its best to just have a pro do the work for about $150.
Books can and have been written, some good and some based on BS and over thinking.
A Mauser is bets just set in the glass and tight all around, glass the recoil lug full, the pad, and the tang, 2"s of the chamber area and tape the rest of the barrel to free float it or glass the tang and barrel tight in glass...both seem to work with the Mausers..and Ive done a couple of hundred of them..If by chance the gun won't shoot then scrape the barrel channel to give it free floating ( even if you used the tape) do not leave a gap between the barrel and wood, undercut the wood...
Once you get the bedding compound where you want it use a hair dryer to warm the glass, then you won't have any air bubbles or gaps.. Don't glass anything between the Lug and the tang, just set the tang in glass, tape the tang sides and rear or you can scrape it out later when hardened..You don't want the tang pushing on the inletting in the rear, needs a very small amount of free space so the wood doesn't split out in time. stay away from the triggers..glass the bottom metal fore and aft. I fill with clay and push it out when I set the barreled action, in a couple of hours I will twist the screws just a bit and then tighten them, so they don't freeze up, when done I drill out the holes to size..
The more you do the easier and more professional it gets..go slow and learn..The best way is to study hands on with someone that has glassed a lot of rifles and you have seen his work....sometimes its best to just have a pro do the work for about $150.
Books can and have been written, some good and some based on BS and over thinking.
