FL Sizing Die Jamming??

[Inline6]

How do you anneal please? Do you have a set up or do each by hand?

AMP have used a lot of other machines, this one is the best IMHO

Brass Annealing Machine For Sale | Buy Now | AMP

shop.ampannealing.com

It's not cheap, if you are looking for quality, well is it ever?

 

[tedthorn]

Stop using that dreadful sizer ball that comes with every die.

Size without the expander ball then punch the necks with a 21st Century mandrel.

The straightest ammo you will ever build!!

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Hi all,
I am having trouble with my 9.3x62 Full length sizing die jamming.
The down stroke is ok but half way down the up stroke when the case is half out, it jams. I can move it but only with considerable force. This happens with every case. I am using Hornady spray case lube, have cleaned the die and can’t see anything else untoward about the die. The cases seem fine when they come out.

Would appreciate any ideas or other things to check?

Cheers,
Dan

@Dan458
Sound like the expander button is dragging on the case neck.
Before sizing I use redding dry lube on the case neck both inside and out. The expander button is then smooth as silk.
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

1. Tumble (old-school, corncob media /w Dillon polish)
2. Anneal
3. Resize (includes decap)
4. Trim/chamfer
5. Clean primer pocket
6. Prime
7. Powder
8. Bullet

@shootist~ and @Dewald
Man you two just plum tuckered me out with all those steps
I have some Lee loaders in certain calibers.
Clean case
Neck size and deprime in the Lee loader die and pop case out.
Prime
Charge and seat bullet ON MY O FRAME PRESS
NO LUBE TO CLEAN OFF AND 5 SIMPLE STEPS.
EASY AS, QUICK AS AND ACCURATE LOADS.
I trim cases as needed and chamfer about every 5th or 6th load, anneal every 5 loads.
When needed I put ALL MY empty cases in a Lyman rotary tumbler
Simplicity .
Bob

 

[shootist~]

@shootist~ and @Dewald
Man you two just plum tuckered me out with all those steps
I have some Lee loaders in certain calibers.
Clean case
Neck size and deprime in the Lee loader die and pop case out.
Prime
Charge and seat bullet ON MY O FRAME PRESS
NO LUBE TO CLEAN OFF AND 5 SIMPLE STEPS.
EASY AS, QUICK AS AND ACCURATE LOADS.
I trim cases as needed and chamfer about every 5th or 6th load, anneal every 5 loads.
When needed I put ALL MY empty cases in a Lyman rotary tumbler
Simplicity .
Bob

And I even left out a step, Bob.
I tumble again after spray lube/FL resize to remove the lube. I do like clean shiny, dry, & slick cases.

I don't even own a neck sizing die - FL only for reliability (more important in the gas guns, obviously). For the bolt guns I set the sizer to only move the shoulder back .002 - .003".

I shoot in a sandy environment. Cleaning first is mandatory.

It's all what works based on one's needs and superstitions.

 

[Dewald]

Personal opinion, I anneal every time. I want my brass in the same condition every time.

I don't neck size either, by FL resizing my brass is always in the same condition (no worries about stuck cases either).

Generally I play a different game, one that involves shooting longer distance. My SDs are usually sub 5fps for 10 rounds. I'm also shooting groups below .5moa with is my goal. Most of my match rifles, if it can't do better than 3/8moa @ 100 the barrel comes off.

You are according to all the modern data dead right Sir. I guess not having been behind a F-class rifle in 20 years, and living in KZN (hunting 150y at absolute maximum) I have the bit of leeway on my side, and am far from a perfectionist. I have in the past sized shot .243 brass, loaded again with 87gr V-max in a Tikka Supervarmint and saw no difference in shotgroup. That said I do like clean uniform ammo so I do go through the motions.

 

[uplander01]

Polish the expander ball-good idea

ditch the spray lube and use rcbs grease on the body and dip the case neck in graphite. Had all the same stuff happen before. Sometimes I’ll even ditch the expander ball in the fl size die and make neck concentricity a separate operation and stand alone die. If you measure you run off the way you’re doing it now you concentricity is probably pretty bad.

I always deprive with a stand alone universal recapping die——got in this habit when I started using hydrostatic cleaner on brass.

 

[uplander01]

I might also add annealing by hand is a bad idea, if you buy an automated system and all your doing is target shooting that’s one thing, should always use fresh brass for hunts. Resoftening brass after it’s been shot a few times is a dicey proposition at best for big game ammo

lastly, super shiney and smooth brass in bolt rifles is not always a good thing

 

[JGRaider]

I have rifle specific brass, therefore I neck size using Lee collett dies, or a Redding neck sizing die (6.5 PRC), none of which require lube at all. I anneal every 3 firing for longer lasting brass. If/when brass gets a little tight to chamber, I'll bump back shoulders .002. I've had good luck making very straight ammo doing this.

 

[JGRaider]

I might also add annealing by hand is a bad idea, if you buy an automated system and all your doing is target shooting that’s one thing, should always use fresh brass for hunts. Resoftening brass after it’s been shot a few times is a dicey proposition at best for big game ammo

lastly, super shiney and smooth brass in bolt rifles is not always a good thing

Can't agree with much of anything there. Hand annealing with Tempilaq is foolproof, and allows you to be very concise and repetitive, and your brass will definitely last longer and still perform great. Can't imagine a possible downside to using clean brass in a rifle chamber.

 

[fourfive8]

Two best ways to prevent or minimize the common problem of expander ball drag-

Use a neck brush in a dedicated box with a dry lube like powdered mica.

Or…

Remove the decapping/neck expanding spindle from the multi-purpose sizing die. Use the sizing die for sizing only. Replace the two functions of the spindle with a dedicated decapping die and a neck expanding die like the Lyman M die.

Unless you are shooting 100s of rounds a week or in the bench rest game, the above procedure will help efficiently load the best, most reliable ammo possible given basic tools.

 

[Berettaco]

Lots of good advice here as usual. When I run into this, I saturate a Q-Tip with case lube and run it around the inside of the neck - fast and easy.

 

[Hogpatrol]

First, get rid of the the neck expander. All it does is work harden the brass. Hornady case lube needs to sit before using. I spray, then let them sit for fifteen minutes.

 

[Nevada Mike]

I had this prblem with some new 404 Jeffery brass. Decapped, then sized using Imperial sizing wax and Imperial dry neck lube. Problem gone and a better result.