20 yards is close enough. Seriously though, 10 yards might be too close. The arrow still needs to stabilize in its flight to maximize penetration so I want to have it no longer wobbling from the acceleration. I suppose I should take some high frame rate video of the arrows when I am practicing to see how far it goes until it stabilizes.
I would highly recommend slo mo video of your arrow flight.
You can set an iPhone on slow mo video and then slow it down further with scrolling.
Set the phone up just behind the bow or down near the target. I prefer it behind the bow to see what the arrow is doing at the release. Is it clearing the riser and rest cleanly? How quickly is it recovering from initial flex.
You are correct. you do not want all that flopping back-and-forth flexing that many bow shops say is normal. I prefer more stiff spine than the charts call for.
the arrow no longer needs to flex around the handle of a traditional bow. For some reason many still hang onto the traditional archers paradox mentality.
crossbows use completely rigid bolts. They don’t need to flex to get good flight and neither does a compound arrow.
It’s imperative that the nock is directly behind the broad head as it hits the animal and that the shaft does not flex when it hits the animal.
To take it to the extreme. picture an arrow flying at a 45° angle and hitting the side of an animal.
I strivevto have the arrow perfectly straight at 10 yards. Most bow shops will set a bow and arrow combination up with the arrow still flopping around at 20 and sometimes even 30 yards, now for Whitetail that’s fine. You can put an Orange on the front of an Arrow and punch an orange through a white tail. Not so much on large animals.
Get your arrows flying similar to a crossbow bolt. No flexing and flopping around. It takes longer to tune that way, and that’s probably why bow shops don’t do it. Or maybe it’s that the shafts and components to achieve this are not sold in bow shops and are pretty costly.