Finally bit the bullet

Way to go Royal127.
 
Ugh... I can't believe I said that. I know better!!! :)
I know you do, I just couldn't help myself!!:whistle: That kind of a day.
 
Corrupt Government? you mean the Manchurian Candidate AKA Barry?

Barry for sure but, I am sad to report that he is only the tip of the iceberg that is sinking this greatest nation to ever jump and breathe.
 
Congrats on the new venture Royal... Have fun!
 
Post a pic of your bench again next year at this time. I bet there will be LOTS of additions (y)
 
Post a pic of your bench again next year at this time. I bet there will be LOTS of additions (y)
Sounds like experience talking?
 
Post a pic of your bench again next year at this time. I bet there will be LOTS of additions (y)

Im already realizing I need a shelf up above the bench. :)
 
image.jpg
Sounds like experience talking?
Yep :Happy: And anyone that says handloading is less expensive than buying factory cartridges is just trying to perfect the story for the wife. :whistle:
 
I know I want to upgrade my scale, but that one may be down the road a bit!!! Pretty cool though.... I honestly think that I may just get a nicer beam scale as opposed to digital, but haven't decided yet.



I like to tinker and get OCD trying to get things right. I think I'm going to enjoy making the load as much as doing the shooting.

I still have my nice beam scale, an ohaus, that has been collecting dust for the past few years since I got the RCBS 1500 Chargemaster (digital/ electroonic scale). I used to weigh every 20th round with the standard scale versus the digital and just got sick and tired of everything being spot on, I don't even bother anymore. I kept the scale in case of power failure. As for whoever said that FL sizing stretches cases, you are so full of BS M'bogo is going to run you over tomorrow morning! The shooting is the part that stretches the case. FL sizing just puts the case back to relatively normal dimensions, this is also why we trim the cases AFTER sizing. As for the Lee Factory Crimp die, can't go wrong there. The more cam over you get when setting up the die, the more crimp is placed on the brass and this is not normally a good thing. Tighten the die so it is just pressing agains the ram, this is considered a 'light' crimp and more than plenty for all shooting conditions.
 
Welcome to the world of reloading....... next move will be "handloading". There is a difference. One you do for economics the other you do for accuracy and consistancy.

Neither is right or wrong, some cartiges I reload.........many more I handload.

Bullet seating depth is usually where you get your first major increase in accuracy, brass prep is the second. Consistancy is the biggest thing you will get out of handloading, if done right. Right is very subjective and there are many "right" ways.

Too many people new to handloading spend all their time making certain powder charges are exactly to the .01 grain while using range pickup brass........... you have a large world opening up in front of you. Enjoy!

Most equipment you buy for loading will be rugged and very well made, your Grandchildren won't wear it out. Don't be afraid to purchase quality.

.
 
I still have my nice beam scale, an ohaus, that has been collecting dust for the past few years since I got the RCBS 1500 Chargemaster (digital/ electroonic scale). I used to weigh every 20th round with the standard scale versus the digital and just got sick and tired of everything being spot on, I don't even bother anymore. I kept the scale in case of power failure. As for whoever said that FL sizing stretches cases, you are so full of BS M'bogo is going to run you over tomorrow morning! The shooting is the part that stretches the case. FL sizing just puts the case back to relatively normal dimensions, this is also why we trim the cases AFTER sizing. As for the Lee Factory Crimp die, can't go wrong there. The more cam over you get when setting up the die, the more crimp is placed on the brass and this is not normally a good thing. Tighten the die so it is just pressing agains the ram, this is considered a 'light' crimp and more than plenty for all shooting conditions.


From Hornady "Case lengthening produced by repeated full length resizing will shorten case life." I trust them way more than you. BTW cam over doesn't work with all presses and FL resizing bumps back the shoulder as well as restoring the case to factory spec
 
welcome to the world of hand loading! this goes without saying but feel free to ask me any thing.

-matt
 
I still have my nice beam scale, an ohaus, that has been collecting dust for the past few years since I got the RCBS 1500 Chargemaster (digital/ electroonic scale). I used to weigh every 20th round with the standard scale versus the digital and just got sick and tired of everything being spot on, I don't even bother anymore. I kept the scale in case of power failure. As for whoever said that FL sizing stretches cases, you are so full of BS M'bogo is going to run you over tomorrow morning! The shooting is the part that stretches the case. FL sizing just puts the case back to relatively normal dimensions, this is also why we trim the cases AFTER sizing. As for the Lee Factory Crimp die, can't go wrong there. The more cam over you get when setting up the die, the more crimp is placed on the brass and this is not normally a good thing. Tighten the die so it is just pressing agains the ram, this is considered a 'light' crimp and more than plenty for all shooting conditions.


havent got a clue what you are talking about but it sounds good ;):D is it s and m or really about loading bullets.......sorry about creating cartridges :p:D Beers::E Big Grin:
 
havent got a clue what you are talking about but it sounds good ;):D is it s and m or really about loading bullets.......sorry about creating cartridges :p:D Beers::E Big Grin:

I don't think you're supposed to reload while having a cold one though Spike! ;)
 
I don't think you're supposed to reload while having a cold one though Spike! ;)

:E Hmmm:ok crimps, tighten, pressing against the ram............:E Head Scratch: sounds like that 50 shades of grey book that the girls have been reading??????:E Devious::E Laugh:
 
Welcome to the world of reloading. I would recommend your next purchases as a flash hole deburring tool (standardizes the flash holes from the inside) and a good chrono. If you have a factory round that shoots good in your current set up, you can use the chrono to get the velocity then start your reloading in that general area. As mentioned above, you will get a good jump in accuracy by adjusting the seating depth.
I am looking at getting a 1500 Charge Master one day, but my trusty RCBS 10-10 has not let me down and I can see throwing $300 at a problem that does not exist.

Either way, welcome and have fun!
 
Welcome to the world of reloading....... next move will be "handloading". There is a difference. One you do for economics the other you do for accuracy and consistancy.

Neither is right or wrong, some cartiges I reload.........many more I handload.

Bullet seating depth is usually where you get your first major increase in accuracy, brass prep is the second. Consistancy is the biggest thing you will get out of handloading, if done right. Right is very subjective and there are many "right" ways.

Too many people new to handloading spend all their time making certain powder charges are exactly to the .01 grain while using range pickup brass........... you have a large world opening up in front of you. Enjoy!

Most equipment you buy for loading will be rugged and very well made, your Grandchildren won't wear it out. Don't be afraid to purchase quality.

.

Multi quote isn't working so I'll just answer the whole thing.

Great points all....

I plan on both handloading and reloading. Some things I don't care about extreme accuracy. Even up to now I've always shot cheap ammo and hunting ammo. For shooting off sticks as practice I never felt the need for sub MOA accuracy, but for hunting I do.

Bullet seating depth is one of my "stress points" as I start here. I was surprised to see how much shorter factory ammo was than what the reloading manuals say. I feel like the loads should be shorter and I guess they may end up being shorter depending on accuracy?

For the reason mentioned above I am sure I will end up with "practice" brass and "hunting" brass. I understand the entire consistency thing.

And the main reason I started with a kit was so that I could see what worked for me and what doesn't. I'm all about buying quality, but want to figure out what I like first. The only thing worse than buying cheap and then buying again is buying expensive and then buying again!
 
Welcome to the world of reloading. I would recommend your next purchases as a flash hole deburring tool (standardizes the flash holes from the inside) and a good chrono. If you have a factory round that shoots good in your current set up, you can use the chrono to get the velocity then start your reloading in that general area. As mentioned above, you will get a good jump in accuracy by adjusting the seating depth.
I am looking at getting a 1500 Charge Master one day, but my trusty RCBS 10-10 has not let me down and I can see throwing $300 at a problem that does not exist.

Either way, welcome and have fun!

Both of those are on the list!

And I love the idea of the chronological on factory loads. Both my .30/06 and .375 H&H love Barnes Vortx ammunition.
 

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Grz63 wrote on Werty's profile.
(cont'd)
Rockies museum,
CM Russel museum and lewis and Clark interpretative center
Horseback riding in Summer star ranch
Charlo bison range and Garnet ghost town
Flathead lake, road to the sun and hiking in Glacier NP
and back to SLC (via Ogden and Logan)
Grz63 wrote on Werty's profile.
Good Morning,
I plan to visit MT next Sept.
May I ask you to give me your comments; do I forget something ? are my choices worthy ? Thank you in advance
Philippe (France)

Start in Billings, Then visit little big horn battlefield,
MT grizzly encounter,
a hot springs (do you have good spots ?)
Looking to buy a 375 H&H or .416 Rem Mag if anyone has anything they want to let go of
 
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