Expert smiths - can this be done?

So the answer is, there is a reason there are take down rifles in the Europe out of proof no one wants. The cost to fix exceeds their value and they cannot be imported until they are fixed.

Thanks for all your replies!
 
As often happens a dream is shattered by reality -- unfortunately, as we all like to think of ways to save some of these old treasures or at least find a way to have them migrate to our care and use if at all possible.
 
Sadly, the very thing that could allow them to be "in proof" such as rechambering, is the thing that ruins their value and originality.
 
There are no common European "proof"-rules. As an example-non of the Nordic countries has any kind of proofing laws.
 
Entirely up to each country to use/follow/join CIP. 12 countries do, the other half doesn't.
 
Entirely up to each country to use/follow/join CIP. 12 countries do, the other half doesn't.


That's true. Which are more valuable on average? CIP proofed guns or non-CIP?

Spanish shotgun versus Husky?

Hartmann and Weis versus krag Jorganson?

Purdey versus Romanian AK?

Beretta versus Swedish Mauser?


Point being, standardization and surety has made the arms industries of those with uniform standards flourish, those that went it alone have not faired as well.
 
If the headspace deficit it not too great I would suggest looking at Electroless Nickle plating on the bolt face and possible lugs. This process does not involve electricity so there is no hydrogen embrittlement, the surface is very hard, the parts can be easily masked to control the deposit area, and the thickness easily controlled by the time in the plating solution.

Just a thought.
 
Im not a professional gunsmith but I try to set up headspace by modifying bolt
For example Russian Mosin nagants has different lenght of bolt face so you can adjust
headspace by chanching right lenght bolt face.

I think its possible to fill bolt by TIG and then machine it
 

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Andrew, I commented that your on 375 H&H for sale was the fair price.

Like I commented, my classic stainless has the original 24” barrel.

Did you buy yours with the barrel already cut down to 21” or did you do it (or a gunsmith)?
 
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