Euro mounts / taxidermy

[wildfowler.250]

Folks is it recommended to have euro mounts fitted to a shield for import? I’ve heard this makes getting them ‘okayed’ a lot easier? Purely from a basis of picking my own shields at a later date, I was considering having them sent ‘loose’.

Can I ask how dip and packed skulls differ? I have apprehension of painted antlers and skulls if I go for a euro. How far off the finished article is a D&P skull because I only really like a bit of peroxide on them anyway?

Do you all individually tag your stuff,(including hides) or do you trust the outfitter? Should I be stocking up on something before I heard off?


Thanks in advance!

 

[Sabre]

The answer to some of what you asked is going to vary a lot from each person's personal experience. That is because there are many different taxidermists and they all do things somewhat differently.

Even what I will say here will just be from my experiences and others may post a different experience.

For dip and pack, the euros do not need to be attached to a shield.

Whether or not your skulls and horns/antlers are painted and how much they are peroxide treated is going to be specific to the taxidermist or dip and pack company you choose to use. Look at different companies offering the services in your area, or ask the outfitter who he uses. Then ask the taxidermist those questions. Also, tell them your preferences. There is no guarantee they will follow what you say, but this does give the best odds at getting what you want.

If you don't want your skulls to be whitened much, your best chance at that is likely to do a dip and pack and get your Euros back to you a bit less processed and then finish them yourself or with a taxidermist you know in your home location.

I was told, and this is where I think you will get a lot of different opinions. That my "Finished" (as in fully whitened) skull needed to be attached to a shield to show that it was finished. Is this an absolute mandatory rule, I don't know, my intuition says that I doubt it. But It might be. It is usually included in the cost of a finished/whitened euro, so I don't care that much, but someone else might.

I can tell you that even from the same taxidermist/outfitter/dip and pack/etc. These answers seem to vary a lot and change from one conversation to the next. Especially in regards to warthogs and primates.

Some people do bring a bunch of tags from their taxidermist back home to have the tags attached to everything and keep their stuff labeled. I would trust the outfitter/PH/Guide to label them all as they are generally dealing with thousands of trophies per year and have a system. But if your taxidermist has a bunch of tags to have your stuff labeled, it wouldn't hurt to bring them and ask the PH to attach them to your stuff as well.

 

[Nyati]

Just be sure to tell them not to overboil your skulls, and then pray they will follow your instructions.

The less they handle them, the better.

 

[SETH RINGER]

THE GUYS IN AFRICA CAN REALLY DO NICE PAINTING AND CARVING ON YOU EUROS FOR I WOULD THINK WAY CHEAPER THAN IN USA.

 

[wildfowler.250]

The answer to some of what you asked is going to vary a lot from each person's personal experience. That is because there are many different taxidermists and they all do things somewhat differently.

Even what I will say here will just be from my experiences and others may post a different experience.

For dip and pack, the euros do not need to be attached to a shield.

Whether or not your skulls and horns/antlers are painted and how much they are peroxide treated is going to be specific to the taxidermist or dip and pack company you choose to use. Look at different companies offering the services in your area, or ask the outfitter who he uses. Then ask the taxidermist those questions. Also, tell them your preferences. There is no guarantee they will follow what you say, but this does give the best odds at getting what you want.

If you don't want your skulls to be whitened much, your best chance at that is likely to do a dip and pack and get your Euros back to you a bit less processed and then finish them yourself or with a taxidermist you know in your home location.

I was told, and this is where I think you will get a lot of different opinions. That my "Finished" (as in fully whitened) skull needed to be attached to a shield to show that it was finished. Is this an absolute mandatory rule, I don't know, my intuition says that I doubt it. But It might be. It is usually included in the cost of a finished/whitened euro, so I don't care that much, but someone else might.

I can tell you that even from the same taxidermist/outfitter/dip and pack/etc. These answers seem to vary a lot and change from one conversation to the next. Especially in regards to warthogs and primates.

Some people do bring a bunch of tags from their taxidermist back home to have the tags attached to everything and keep their stuff labeled. I would trust the outfitter/PH/Guide to label them all as they are generally dealing with thousands of trophies per year and have a system. But if your taxidermist has a bunch of tags to have your stuff labeled, it wouldn't hurt to bring them and ask the PH to attach them to your stuff as well.

Just be sure to tell them not to overboil your skulls, and then pray they will follow your instructions.

The less they handle them, the better.

Thanks folks! Can I ask what the difference between the D&P skull is and the euro mount?

Didn’t think boil time was an option. I’ve heard they all go in a cauldron for 2 hours.. Not the 40 mins then power wash I do at home anyway

 

[Sabre]

D&P should come back clean, but not necessarily degreased, and not whitened. A finished Euro would typically come back degreased and whitened.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

My current African taxidermist attaches my skulls to phony plaques of scrap plywood. They said that way the skulls can be labeled "finished taxidermy" rather than dip and pack. Finished taxidermy can/may glide through customs inspections quicker. Skulls are typically attached to the board with a single screw through the proper place at the top of back of skull. Easily removed and boards tossed when the skulls arrive home.