Epoxy on, two-piece barrel band swivel?

clockwork_7mm_gator

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Gents,

I'm planning to use epoxy (West) to attach a barrel band swivel base. Can anyone recommend a clamp-on/two-piece product?

(Before you say scrap it and solder, this is on a project rifle and I've committed to doing all the work myself.)

Thanks y'all.
 

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You should be able to silver solder it. Mini hot torch can be bought at most hardware outlets and I believe Midway has an online video showing how to attach barrel band swivels with silver solder.

Good on you for doing as much of the build project as you can. I did everything but open the bolt face and attach the barrel. I didn't silver solder anything on my gun (but I could have). Don't care for barrel band sling swivels. Prefer my rifle, like my pack, slung high rather than low. My sling swivels are in conventional locations.

I think I would be concerned about expansion and contraction of hot rifle barrel releasing the epoxy. And there's the harmonic vibration to consider.
 
Half of a lifetime ago, I saw an article on installing a barrel band. The front sight was installad with screws so could be removed then a barrel band, just slightly small, was heated and driven onto a scrap barrel with similar taper to new barrel and stretched until it would fit the new barrel perfectly. Had to be polished and blued, but if your front sight is removable that may be an option and if the epoxy slipped, front sight would at least keep your sling from popping off.
 
Was lucky on a search-
Or this-
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I’ve used this one successfully on two rifles. No problems so far.
 
TR - any chance you'd mind showing me photos of how they look on the rifle? Would greatly appreciate it!
 
Check midway. They had a clamp on when I looked a while ago. It went all the way around the barrel.
 
If you can get your front sight off I would HIGHLY recommend using a one piece band from Talley or Gentry. I have a strong dislike for the clamp on style, but if you want to anchor it you are probably on the right track using epoxy. I just put barrel bands on two of my rifles this past year, one from Gentry, one from Talley. And if you must use a clamp on I agree with CJW, try to find one that goes around the barrel and clamps at bottom.
 
Here is a pic of the Gentry band I installed on my .375 barrel. One piece solid band, sized to barrel. Driven on tight with a block of wood and mallet, secured with epoxy. I coated the barrel and inside of band with epoxy prior to driving it on, then cleaned up excess. Make sure inside is polished smooth so as not to scratch your bluing. Measure barrel a bit above where you want the band to end up, then it will get tight on a tapered barrel.
resized gentry pic.jpg
 
You should be able to silver solder it. Mini hot torch can be bought at most hardware outlets and I believe Midway has an online video showing how to attach barrel band swivels with silver solder.

Good on you for doing as much of the build project as you can. I did everything but open the bolt face and attach the barrel. I didn't silver solder anything on my gun (but I could have). Don't care for barrel band sling swivels. Prefer my rifle, like my pack, slung high rather than low. My sling swivels are in conventional locations.

I think I would be concerned about expansion and contraction of hot rifle barrel releasing the epoxy. And there's the harmonic vibration to consider.
You are correct to be concerned about heating a barrel, which is also why silver solder is a poor choice. Silver solder requires significantly higher temp that simple lead free plumbing solder (soft solder). On the order of 1,300-1,500 Fahrenheit. I have soft soldered a lot of sights on rifles over the years and it is my preferred method of attachment. The barrel doesn't need to get that hot and the attachment is secure.

The other option is an interference fit, which I did on the sling swivel for my 6.5x55. Leave the band a little small, then heat it up and quickly slide it on the barrel, when it cools it will shrink and permanently attach itself to the barrel. The barrel never gets heated, just the band.

Soft solder works on stainless too, but requires a strong acid flux instead of rosin flux like they sell for plumbing.

The way it was explained to me was, cut rifled barrels, heating should have no effect because there isn't any internal tension in the steel. Hammer forged barrels with expand and create a loose spot in the barrel when heated to cherry red Button rifled barrels do the opposite and will create a tight spot.
 
Thanks y'all. I ended up talking to the folks at Gentry and they recommended epoxy (said it's what they use themselves). Now I just need to get my hands on one... they're out of stock but have me on the list.
 

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