EAW Pivot Mount DIY Install

Lone Star Bluegrass

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Does anybody have any experience/tips for installing EAW pivot mounts? Mark at NECG said it was an hour or two job that’s not too difficult if you know what you’re doing. He even offered to talk me through it on the phone, the only problem I have is my time off the clock and his work schedule don’t match. I’ve looked online incl. YouTube and detailed instructions are difficult to come by.
 
I have done it. Unfortunately I ran into a problem where the radius of the mount and the radius of the action did not match exactly, causing the pivot to bind. At that point it had to go to Mark. Since that correction I have successfully mounted them. Do not skip the adhesive on the lower ring. mark will tell you what to use. This system absolutely requires the adhesive. Marks solution is much better than the loctite the Germans use.
 
I had the same issue finding the instructions. I eventually got a copy of the instructions through my Rigby dealer. I’m away from home for a few more days. If no else provides them in the interim I’ll post them up for you when I get home.
 
I did, and I did it very succesfully many times. It's a very long procedure that requires many passages. Keep in mind that EAW bases are intended to work GLUED to the action, with a very good epoxy. One of the key factors is the following : first, put the bases UNGLUED to the action. Then, set the correct clamp force to the front base with the ex key, the force you need/intend is correct to make the pivot in perfect working order. Then, disassemble the bases and glue them.
The pivot should work with a nice force, not loose, not too tight - put a shadow of good grease on the pivot.
It would be best to use a 30 mm (or 1", or 26, depending on the size of your scope/rings) alloy tube instead of the scope itself, to make those settings.
Keep in mind that the epoxy on the front base should be put ONLY in 3/4 of the "C", never in the part that (due to the ex screw) makes the clamp work.
As for the rear base, nothing difficult, just follow the instructions about the little "bolt" that is not intended to strike down in the beginning, but will - after some rounds fired.
Obviously the rear base too, have to be glued.
About the rings :
be sure that the two big screws at the side of the rear ring are screwed the same, so the ring sits in the middle of the base and very likely this ensure that your crossahair sits in the middle of the action/barrel.
I use epoxy in the lower part of the rings, too. Kind of epoxy that need maybe an hour or more to get hard.
Also, this is a good video on EAW you'll find on you tube, I don't know hot to link it, just looking for the title.
Good luck and follow the very good instruction in the EAW package.
IMG_20230803_201221.png
 
Couple more advices :
1) apply the epoxy in very small amount, using a little, high quality, flat brush, like you were paint the bottom surface of the bases. Small amount. Once you will tighten the base screws, it will form a nice film, just what you need and want. Let it stay for a day before work on the mount again.
2) once all is properly done, and your scope is very well sighted in at all the intended distances, I use to glue in the two big screws on the side of the rear ring, too. One at a time, so the ring wont change his zero. I put epoxy, but maybe a good "screw glue, medium strenght" would be a wiser choice.
This step is important because I had one of this screws totally loose, and obviously that caused change and lost zero.

I'm not at home now, but I have original instructions papers, and I will send you as soon I'll be back. Not too soon because I'm in holidays, but I will.
 
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This is very helpful to me too, thanks for the instructions!
 
Does anybody have any experience/tips for installing EAW pivot mounts? Mark at NECG said it was an hour or two job that’s not too difficult if you know what you’re doing. He even offered to talk me through it on the phone, the only problem I have is my time off the clock and his work schedule don’t match. I’ve looked online incl. YouTube and detailed instructions are difficult to come by.

It's not that hard to do if you're Mark at NECG, its very hard to do if you're you or me.

The difference: When we make a mistake, we have $400 of non-refundable, non-returnable parts. When Mark's guys do it, they don't even half-ass measure, they just go to the drawer and literally have 200 different parts to choose from if the rear ring needs to be 2mm lower, or the front foot needs to be a CM longer.

As to how to do it, it gets easier the more EAW parts you already own. I usually buy the mounts first and install them in 5 mins. Then I reach in my parts bin and see if I have a front or rear ring around that will work, installing it into a 1" or 30mm bar. I then get out the caliper and start to estimate, if the ring is too high or too low, what height bottom of the ring do I need to reorder? Then I measure the missing ring, estimating the height I'll need for that ring that will be different. (the bridge height is different, so your front and rear rings are different height) Next step, I get out the scope with the help of an assistant, and I ascertain the required eye relief, making 100% sure that eye relief is correct, checking it 3-4 times. I then confirm that the objective bell of the scope will clear the barrel and sights at that location, then I verify what tongue/foot length I require on the front scope base for the offset. Lastly, I double, triple, quadruple check that the scope bells, turrets, and focal ring will operate correctly at those estimated heights and that they aren't obstructing the intended placement of the scope for eye relief.

With all that in hand, having measured this operation for several hours like I was planning to cut a raw 100ct diamond, I then look into the EAW german catalog and write down each individual part number I require.

Total cost for me: $450 in parts, lots of time and labor, probably about 5-6 hours from start to finish from the 4 hours of measuring to the 2 hours of installing and adjusting. Lots of things to learn as well, such as how to install an EAW ring hemisphere onto a scope without scratching the scope (you make a custom spanner, or buy one from Germany)

Mark Charges $900 plus return shipping to do all this for you, which he can do because he never makes a mistake that costs him a restocking fee, he owns ALL the parts. You and me? We have to be perfect on the very first try or we own paper weights. I have a box of paperweights, so my installs go smoother each time as I can borrow and test with parts to do less of this work with the use of an assistant.

The last gotcha to be aware, is that the saddles installed on the action or barrel may not have a foot of correct dimensions to receive the front ring foot. I've faced this before, solving it with lapping compound and fine stones, plus the use of a metal bar installed in the front ring so I can install and remove it hundreds of time until the foot tension and engagement is correct. (otherwise, you'll stress your scope or bend it if too tight)

I've done this for friends before, and when I ask for $750 for my efforts and parts, they have looked at me as though I'm robbing them so I stopped my generous offer. Too much risk of owning $450 of the wrong parts, plus labor that would be more lucratively spent flipping hamburgers, plus the thousands of dollars in tools I had to acquire to do this correctly.


There is an exception to ALL of the above I should mention. EAW does make pre-made ring/mount kits. These are for mass manufactured rifles and include all the parts you need to have a sorta horsesh&t installation, just like buying normal rings and mounts at Cabelas. It may mean your optic is way too high, or that your eye relief is never going to be correct, but its sort of plug-and-play. The only time I recommend these kits are for Mannlicher Schoenauers with original flag safeties. Of course its going to be too high, but it must allow the flag safety to work, so you just take it as it is.

TLDR; best guns deserve best installations of rings and mounts, it is usually beyond the skills and time of an above average, handy gun aficionado to do well for lower cost than farming it out for $900.
 
Regarding glue/epoxy, I haven't had to do this on every rifle, but mass produced rifles are notoriously out of true and require it. (e.g. Rem 700s are straight as RuPaul) With Mannlichers, the mount-to-action geometry was perfect. Same for custom mausers built on the Paul Mauser blueprints. A custom mauser that was de-milled will have been polished to indeterminate dimensions and would require the epoxy method. When using the epoxy method, its really important to have a perfectly straight 1" or 30mm rod so you have a jig holding the rings and mounts in place correctly while the epoxy sets up, otherwise you'll have a set of scope mounts that do not run parallel with the bore, and as a consequence your gun will shoot crooked (drifting) at various distances left/right.
 
I've just installed my second set of bases and fourth set of rings using these instructions. On my pair of Sauer 202 rifles the process seemed reasonably straight forward. I wrote to EAW first and supplied pictures and measurements of what I wanted to do. Their suggestions for the parts required were correct and my installations were error free.
 
Wow, this is an awesome thread and was exactly what I’m looking for regarding an EAW equipped rifle I just purchased. Here is what I’m a working with, a Hambrusch Mauser. I will call Mark this week to get a general idea of what I should do to properly re-mount a scope in these rings. It really is an interesting design.

IMG_3074.jpeg
 
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Ok, I’ve got the scope almost ready to mount. I know I need to use 3m Scotchkote on both lower rings when I go to final mount it, but I’m running into a small problem with the rear ring. I need to use the windage adjustment feature on the ring as I can’t quite get a boresight with the scope’s available windage. I just can’t figure out how the windage mechanism on this rear ring is supposed to work. I’ve loosened both screws, and tried to tighten one side to make it move but it won’t. Seems frozen in place. Anyone have any experience with this?

IMG_3091.jpeg
 
You remove the left screw. You zero the scope windage. You drift the right screw until correct. You then instal and tighten the left screw, torquing the right and left both to 20-25 inch pounds. You then use the windage turret for final adjustment.
 
You remove the left screw. You zero the scope windage. You drift the right screw until correct. You then instal and tighten the left screw, torquing the right and left both to 20-25 inch pounds. You then use the windage turret for final adjustment.

For clarification, you mean drift right screw a punch? Because if I turn it, it does nothing but unscrew or tighten to dead stop..

Thanks for the info, I can find nearly nothing online about these except this thread.
 
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No punch. Just turning the screw moves the block under the ring. That’s the point, the screws move the block left and right.
 

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