Dumoulin Centurion

Good tips all around I second Acetone works fast and evaporates quickly.
 
Image1655056324.092301.jpg


She is finally out to play. Took a young keiler with her this morning bright and early :)

After observing two wild boar feeding, from 3:45 till 4:35, from about 35m distance while stalking to the high seat, I managed to get a decent shot in.
 
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Great stuff always fun to blood a new rifle.
 
You can also use rubbing alcohol to remove the hand oils if you are hesitant to use Acetone. It will require a little more time and elbow grease. Like @Red Leg and @rookhawk have pointed out that a little preventive maintenance on the wood will save you a lot of money in the future.
 
Acetone will remove a $1500 finish just about instantly. It's very effective. Mineral spirits will dissolve hand oils and will every so barely reactivate the oil finish allowing the original finish to barely flow at a molecular level filling some voids.

You use acetone when you want to take away all semblance of finish. You use mineral spirits to prepare a fine gun to receive another drop or two of oil to be further built up.

Ballistol is a great preservative for gun metal and wood. It does not build up thinning finish, it protects whatever exists at present.
 
May we also see the fore end please? Nice 1" Zeiss scope, no longer in production.
I went through the pics I have, but could not find any good shots of the fore end. However I'll have to make and send additional foto's later, as the gun smith is (now that I came back from the hunt) back in posession, to try the lowest mount possible with a Swarovski Z6i 1.7-10x42 SR. He said the lowest he'll be able to go, is 4.5mm above the quarter rib. That's where the ocular bell will start. From mid point of the old scope, to the mid point of the new scope, there should be less than 3mm difference. And since both will have claw mounts, I can switch back and forth. Once he is done fabricating all this, and has installed the new scope, I'll make additional pictures.
 
I went through the pics I have, but could not find any good shots of the fore end. However I'll have to make and send additional foto's later, as the gun smith is (now that I came back from the hunt) back in posession, to try the lowest mount possible with a Swarovski Z6i 1.7-10x42 SR. He said the lowest he'll be able to go, is 4.5mm above the quarter rib. That's where the ocular bell will start. From mid point of the old scope, to the mid point of the new scope, there should be less than 3mm difference. And since both will have claw mounts, I can switch back and forth. Once he is done fabricating all this, and has installed the new scope, I'll make additional pictures.


With an occular claw mount they can fasten nearly flush to the height of the quarter rib. The rear mount is then built up to ensure the optic is parallel with the bore.

The key will be finding an optic long enough to reach the front claw base while still giving you correct eye relief. You're starting this journey inductively reasoning you'll fit the z6i 1.7-10x42 which I think is problematic. The deductive reasoning would be your desire to get a larger objective optic to fit the existing front and rear claw mount locations. That will start with every optic ever made of any semblance of quality and *may* land you on something made in the past decade or so. Ten year old Schmidt & Benders had very long tubes so that is a possible candidate.

Point being: You're casting a very small net by prescribing an optic and trying to get it to work rather than prescribing a gun and mounts to be left as-is and then finding any optic that will work perfectly.
 

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