Dry horns and ivory - how to treat these?

[Acopperdawg]

Jumping into this because I am also curious what your experiences have been. Do you find that if you use an oil based product the horns stay permanently dark or do they slowly fade back to a more original color as they begin to dry out over time again? How are you guys applying the beeswax type products? The once that I have seen are a harder solid wax at room temperature. My concern would be ensuring a uniform application unless it was somehow liquified. You guys certainly seem to have resolved this issue if you are still using the product. What's your technique or secret?

 

[rookhawk]

Specific to Hippo Tusks, I don't know the answer. I've never seen a ten year old set that wasn't split. I'm angrily looking at a set as we speak. I'm told that mineral oil can be put on them to reduce likelihood of splitting.

On anything else, I've not yet had any problems but the proposed remedies (adding moisture or waxing to retain moisture all seem like reasonable steps from other members)

 

[Phil Giordano]

To me, a good beeswax warks great for horns and ivory. You can't go wrong with natural stuff.

 

[UKHunter]

Specific to Hippo Tusks, I don't know the answer. I've never seen a ten year old set that wasn't split. I'm angrily looking at a set as we speak. I'm told that mineral oil can be put on them to reduce likelihood of splitting.

On anything else, I've not yet had any problems but the proposed remedies (adding moisture or waxing to retain moisture all seem like reasonable steps from other members)

I have always been told and do myself with pig tusks is fill them with candle or bee wax. The same may work for hippo tusks?

 

[rookhawk]

I have always been told and do myself with pig tusks is fill them with candle or bee wax. The same may work for hippo tusks?

No idea. I wonder if the 60%-70% solid ivory part is the cause, or the hollow part is where the split starts? I wonder why the taxidermists don't do something to them before completing their work? I've seen countless wood plaques of Africa with busted hippo teeth hanging off them due to spontaneous splitting.

 

[SkullKeeper]

@PlainJane
Welcome back !!! Some good ideas here !

 

[PlainJane]

@PlainJane
Welcome back !!! Some good ideas here !

Thank you @SkullKeeper, very kind of you sir. Another thank you goes out to those that offered their advice. Much appreciated!

 

[buck wild]

Jumping into this because I am also curious what your experiences have been. Do you find that if you use an oil based product the horns stay permanently dark or do they slowly fade back to a more original color as they begin to dry out over time again? How are you guys applying the beeswax type products? The once that I have seen are a harder solid wax at room temperature. My concern would be ensuring a uniform application unless it was somehow liquified. You guys certainly seem to have resolved this issue if you are still using the product. What's your technique or secret?

Sorry, I missed the remainder of this thread. To answer a few of your questions:

Do you find that if you use an oil based product the horns stay permanently dark or do they slowly fade back to a more original color as they begin to dry out over time again?
Oils will have a lasting effect on horns. They tend to darken horns as they soak in and it would take potentially decades (or sun bleaching which I don't EVER recommend) to reverse that.

How are you guys applying the beeswax type products?
Read the attached thread Jerome added early on to this one. In short, soften it with a heat source, apply it in a liquid or very semi-soft state, then buff it out. If that is too time-consuming, which it does take time, try a wax paste type floor wax also. I use Johnson paste wax in the yellow and red container, for smaller horns such as impala, blesbok etc

What's your technique or secret?
Go read the thread